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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S 



NEW COOK BOOK. 




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COPYRIGHT, 1894. 

WASHBURN, CROSBY CO., 

PUBLISHERS, 
MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BpOK. 



The (Oisine 

. . . WILL BE . . . 



_PE-RFEeTIO/N ITSELF 



IF 



Washburn, 




Crosby Go's 



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IS USED. 



Beautiful 



BREAD, 
ROLLS, 
BISCUIT, 
PUDDINGS. 



EVEKy GOOD GROeE-R SELLS 



Washburn, Crosby Co.'s Klcmr. 




The making of stock calls for no more than the ordinary 
amount of skill and attention and it should not be thought 
either a mystery or a trouble. A crock of well made stock is 
indispensable for the soups and sauces required in every well 
ordered household. It is well worth planning for. 

In the first place then the material is to be considered. Meat 
and bones for soup should be perfectly fresh, and about equal 
in proportion; hock or shin of beef, ends of rib roasts, and 
portions of the neck or shoulder are all suitable, although coarse 
and cheap. The first mentioned furnish chiefly gelatine, the 
latter give flavor. A knuckle of veal and the bit of bone 
trimmed from a leg of mutton with a few ounces of lean ham 
or smoked beef may be added. Examine carefully and cut 
out any bits that are at all stale or discolored by the hang- 
ing hook. Sponge the outside skinny portion with a cloth 
wrung out of warm water, but do not wet the freshly cut sur- 
faces of meat. Scrape with a dull knife and wipe again with a 
clean cloth. Cut the meat from the bones and put them in the 
soup kettle, having first inverted in it a perforated pie plate to 
keep the bones from resting on the bottom of the kettle. This, 
by the way, should always be of aluminum or agate ware, never 
of iron. It should have a closely fitting cover, and if larger 
than three gallons there should be two handles. The meat 
should be cut into half inch slices, across the grain, and laid 
upon the bones, cold water put in and the kettle placed where 
it will be at least one hour in coming to a boil. By this 
time the juice will be well drawn from the meat and the bones 
heated through. It may be allowed to boil gently for five 
minutes and then the kettle must be pushed back where it will 
simmer steadily for not less than eight hours. After cooking 
two hours seasoning should be added; a level teaspoon of salt 
and four peppercorns to each quart of water. After it has 
been strained, the meat and bones simmered another two hours 
with two quarts of water will yield a stock of lighter quality 
but of much value, which can be used in making bean porridge, 
tomato or pea soup. This stock should be cooled as quickly 
as may be — in warm weather set in a pan of cold water. Do 
not break the cake of fat on the surface until the stock is needed 
for use. When cold set in the ice box. 

To Prepare Stock for Use. 

If the cover of the soup pot fitted closely and the soup was 
not allowed to boil, there should be about five quarts of soup in 
the first crock. Contrary to the usual custom, this has been 
seasoned only with pepper and salt and is really a plain beef 
broth. It needs more color and flavor. Take off the fat and 
dip out carefully one quart of the broth, boil over a quick fire 
until it is reduced to one-fourth, then simmer carefully until it 
has a thick, syrupy consistence and has changed to a reddish 
brown color. The rest of the stock may now be added. A bay 
leaf, two or three sprays of parsley, half a blade of mace, any or 
all may be added or a few sprigs of thyme, summer savory, or 
marjoram. Vegetables may be added in the proportion of one- 
half tablespoon each of onion, carrot and turnip to each quart of 
soup. These should be cut rather fine and thoroughly scalded 
before putting into the soup. After simmering an hour it can 
be strained again and put away, it may be drawn off the fire 
and allowed to settle, two and a half or even three quarts of 
the clear stock dipped off for future use and the remainder 
served as a vegetable soup. 



To Clear Soup-Stock. 

Remove the fat, and allow the white and shell of one egg fur 
every quart of stock. If you wish to flavor the stock more 
highly, add half a saltspoon of celery-seed and the thinnest 
possible shavings from the rind of half a lemon. Add also the 
lemon-juice, and more salt and pepper if needed. Mix celery- 
seed, lemon, egg, etc., with the cold stock, and beat it well. If 
the stock be hot when the egg is added, the egg will harden 
before it has done its work. This is the point where many 
fail. Set it over the fire and stir it all the time until it is hot, 
to keep the egg from settling. Then leave it and let it boil ten 
minutes. By this time a thick scum will have formed, and as 
it breaks the liquid will be clear and sparkling, like wine, and 
darker than before. Draw it back on the stove, and add half a 
cup of cold water. Let it stand ten minutes, while you get 
your jar, colander, and fine napkin ready for straining. Wring 
the napkin out of hot water, and lay it over the colander. Tut 
the finest wire strainer on the napkin, and then pour it all 
through. The strainer will catch the scum and shells which 
would otherwise clog the napkin. Let it take its own time to 
drain, but if you must hasten it, raise the napkin first at one 
corner and then at another, and let the liquid run down to a 
clean place. This is better than squeezing. This is all ready to 
serve as a clear soup by simply heating to the boiling-point. 
Serve with it, in the tureen, thin slices of lemon, a glass of 
sherry, yolks of hard-boiled eggs, or delicate flavored force meat 
balls; or put on each plate a poached egg, or a spoonful of 
grated Parmesan cheese. 

Thickening for Soups. 

Simps are thickened with flour, corn-starch, or rice-ilour; one 
tablespoon for a quart of soup— heaping, if flour; scant, if rice- 
flour or corn-starch. Flour is the cheapest, but corn-stanh 
gives a smoother consistency. Mix the flour with a very little 
cold water or milk until it is a smooth paste, then add more 
liquid until it can be poured easily into the boiling soup. 
Remember to boil the soup fifteen or twenty minutes after the 
thickening is added, that there may be no raw taste of the llour. 
Where butter and flour are used, put the butter in a small 
saucepan, and when melted and bubbling stir in the flour quickly 
until smooth (be careful not to brown the butter for any white 
soup); then add gradually about a cup of the hot soup, letting it 
boil and thicken as you add the soup. It should be thin enough 
to pour. In vegetable soups, or purees, as soon as the hot but- 
ter and flour are blended, they may be stirred at once into the 
soup. This is what is meant in many of the receipts by thick- 
ening with butter and flour which have been cooked together. 
The hot butter cooks the flour more thoroughly than it can be 
cooked in any other way. When a brown thickening is desired, 
melt the butter and let it become as brown as it will without 
burning, then add all the flour at once and stir quickly, that 
every particle of it may be moistened in the hot butter: add the 
water or soup gradually. Flour that is browned while dry, 
either in the oven or over the fire, colors, but does not thicken. 
A certain amount of moisture, of either fat or water, is neces- 
sary with the heat to thoroughly swell the grains of starch in 
the flour. Thickened soups should be about the consistency of 
good cream. Purees are thicker. 

Soup may be thickened with bread instead of plain flour, 
corn-starch or arrow-root. AVhen this is done, force meat, egg 
or spinach balls may be served in it instead of vegetables. Tb' 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



French and German rules for Garbures say that the bread should 
be saturated with broth and fs' from the top of the pot, and 
baked until the broth has evaporated and the crusts are slightly 
browned This is not recommended. The bread should be 
dried and browned slightly and added to a small amount of 
stock, simmered until soft and crushed to a panada with a 
wooden spoon or potato masher, then diluted with more stock. 
An ounce of dried bread or two tablespoons dried bread crumbs 
for a quart finished soup will be quite as thick as most people 
like it; strain again if wanted perfectly smooth. 

The German rye bread is excellent for this purpose. It may 
be used with stock, or simply boiled in water and enriched with 
eggs. The true German seasoning is caraway seed and caramel. 
The sugar should not be browned enough to destroy its 

Glaze is simply clear stock boiled down to one-fourth of its 
original amount. Put two quarts of rich, strong stock into a 
saucepan, and boil it uncovered until reduced to one pint. It 
should have a gluey consistency, and will keep a month if put 
in a closely covered jar in a cool place. It is useful in browning 
meats which have not been colored by cooking, but which we 
wish to have the appearance of having been roasted or browned. 

For enriching a weak stock or gravy, or adding llavor and 
consistency to sauces, there is nothing that can take its place. 

Plain Brown Soup Stock. 

Six pounds shin of beef in the proportion of four pounds 
lean meat to two pounds bone, gristle, etc., six quarts cold 
water, one-half a chili (red pepper), one large onion, one table- 
spoonful salt. Wipe the meat with 1 wet cloth, cut it from the 
bone and into thin slices across the grain. Reserve several of 
the largest slices with all tne marrow, put remainder of meat 
and bones into six quarts of cold water with the spices and 
herbs Set one side of the fire, where it will be at least an hour 
in coming to the boil. If convenient broil the reserved slices 
till verv brown before adding; if not, fry them in the marrow, 
being very careful not to let the fat scorch. Simmer eight to 
ten hours and strain. The next day remove the fat and use the 
stock plain for a beef broth or with macaroni or vermicelli, 
rice, vegetables, etc., according to taste. 

Clear Soup Stock, for Consomme. 

Add four pounds knuckle of veal or a small fowl to the 
above rule, with two ounces lean ham or a bone of bacon. 
Brown only the onion, in order to have the soup light colored. 
After removing the fat add the beaten white and shell ot one 
egf to each quart of jelly, with one saltspoonful celery seed, a 
few bits of lemon rind, one teaspoonful lemon juice. Mix well 
together, bring to a boil as quickly as possible, stirring very 
often. Simmer ten minutes more, strain through a thick 
napkin and heat to the boiling point before serving. It should 
be sparkling clear and of a light brown or straw color. 

Beef Puree. 

One pint good beef broth, boil in it one tablespoon scalded 
sago until soft and partially dissolved, add the yolk of an egg 
mixed with a little broth, heat for three minutes, stirring in 
also two ounces of tender raw beef, perfectly free from tat and 
reduced to a pulp. 

Bouillon. 

For receptions or other large parties, is simply beef tea on a 
large scale and should be prepared like a plain soup stock, 
allowing one pound of meat and bone to each pint of broth, 
season with pepper, salt, celery and onion if liked, but other 
vegetable flavors are too suggestive of a dinner soup It is best 
made the day before it is to be served. Set on ice over night 
and remove every atom of grease while cold. Reheat to the 
boiling point before serving, adding more seasoning if needed 
and strain through a thick napkin to remove sediment. 

Summer Julienne. 

One quart consomme, one half cup cooked onion cut in rings, 
one-half cup of cooked peas, one-half cup asparagus tips, one- 
half cup cooked string beans, salt and pepper if needed. Heat 
the vegetables and put them into the tureen; pour boiling soup 
over them. 

Winter Julienne. 

One quart of brown stock, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one 

pint mixed vegetables, one-half saltspoonful pepper. Cut the 

'■elery and turnip into dice, can-- into match-shaped pieces. 

r -»eonly the very smallest oni« chshould be rutin halves, 



so that the layers will separate in cups. Cabbage should be 
coarsely chopped. Cook the vegetables in boiling salted water 
till tender, but not broken. Drain them and add to the soup a 
few minutes before serving. Macaroni, vermicelli, rice, 
tapioca, sago and barley should all be cooked till tender in 
boiling salted water before adding to the soup, aud then 
allowed to simmer a few minutes to season through. 

Oxtail Soup. 

Wash and cut up two oxtails, separating them at the joints. 
Select about half of the largest and nicest joints to brown in 
hot fat before cooking. Simmer in enough water to cover 
well until perfectly tender. Take out the browned joints and 
boil the rest to rags; strain, cool and remove fat. Re-heat this 
stock, adding one quart strong brown stock, more salt and 
pepper if needed, and the reserved joints. It should be served 
boiling hot. 

Jugged Soup. 

This is a delicious soup, a little after the order of a Bruns- 
wick stew. Boil any carcasses of cold fowl, bones of roast meat 
or steak, with the trimmings, in three quarts of water, till 
reduced to two. Strain, cool and take off the fat. Slice six 
potatoes very thin and lay in a gallon stone jar with lid. Lay 
on these a sliced onion, three sliced tomatoes or a cup of 
canned, a sliced turnip, a cup of canned . peas, a grated carrot, 
another cup of tomato, and quarter of a cup of raw rice. On 
each layer should have been sprinkled seasoning made by mix- 
ing one tablespoonful each of salt and sugar, half a teaspoon- 
ful of pepper, and a pinch of allspice. Pour the broth over all, 
put on the lid, and cover the edges with a thick paste to keep 
in the steam. Set the jar in a pan of hot water, put all in the 
oven, and cook from four to six hours. Pour all into tureen 
and serve with crisped crackers. 

Left Over Soup. 

Bones and trimmings from a roast of beef, beefsteak bones 
and trimmings, mutton chop bones, any cold vegetables except 
squash, cold cooked eggs in any shape, crusts of bread. There 
should be about six pounds of meat altogether; add whatever 
gravy was left over and four quarts of cold water; add one- 
half teaspoonful celery seed, one tablespoonful salt, one clove, 
four peppercorns, and simmer eight or teu hours till the meat 
is in rags and the water reduced one-half. Strain and set away 
for stock. 

Calf's Head or Mock Turtle. 

One calf's head cleaned with the skin on, cut in halves, and 
well washed in salt aud water. Remove the brains and tie them 
in coarse muslin to be cooked separately; boil in four quarts of 
water till the meat is tender and ready to slip from the bones. 
Lay the meat Hat on a platter, return bones to the pot and boil 
till the water is reduced to two quarts, then strain and cool. 
Remove fat and return to the lire with two quarts rich brown 
stock, two whole cloves, a blade of mace, six allspice berries, 
one chili, more salt if needed. While this issimmering cut the 
meat and tongue into dice; there should be a generous pint; 
chop the trimmings to a paste; cook the brains twenty minutes 
and pound with the chopped meat, season with salt, pepper and 
thyme, add a little beaten egg to bind it well together and 
shape in balls size of a large hickory nut and fry them brown 
in a little butter. Brown four tablespoonf uls Hour in two table- 
spoonfuls butter or bacon fat and add hot soup to it slowly, 
stiring well till smooth; add it to the stock. Put meatballs 
and diced meat into a hot tnreen and strain the boiling stock 
over them. As one head is enough for a gallon of soup it will 
pay to put a part of it into glass jars exactly as you would 
fruit. This soup is usually served with very thin slices of 
lemon, and sometimes a teaspoon of catsup in it. 

Hunter's Soup of Grouse. 

Cut off in neat bits as much as possible of the meat from 
two grouse that have been served for a roast and reserve them. 
Break up all the bones and trimmings, a rabbit, an old fowl, 
two pounds of soup beef, four ounces of ham, and put them 
in the soup-pot with a garnishing of vegetables, salt, thyme, 
bay-leaf, pepper-corns, blade of mace, a leaf of sage, two 
cloves, a pint of cider and eight quarts of water. Start slowly, 
skim well, cover and let simmer gently for three to four hours, 
strain and free the broth from fat, soak a pound of bread in 
cold water, press the water out and cook the bread in a sauce- 
pan with four ounces of butter till it is a thick dough. Dilute 
with game broth to the desired consistency, rub through a 
sieve, stir, boil and skim again, finish with an ounce of butter 
and a pinch of red pepper, pour into the soup tureen, add the 
reserved pieces and serve. 



■' 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



White Soup (From Chicken) 



3 or 4 pounds fowl. 
3 quarts cold water. 
1 tablespoon salt. 
(J peppercorns. 

1 tablespoon chopped onion. 

2 tablespoons chopped celery. 



l pint cream. 

l tablespoon butter. 

1 tablespoon corn-starch. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

1 saltspoon white pepper. 

2 eggs. 



Singe, clean and wipe the fowl. Cut off the legs and wings, 
and disjoint the body Put it on to boil in cold water. Let it 
come to a boil quickly, because we wish to use the meat as well 
as the water, and skim thoroughly. The meat may be removed 
ulna tender, and the bones put on to boil again. (Use the 
meat for croquettes or other made dishes.) Add the salt and 
vegetables. Simmer until reduced one-half. Strain and when 
cool remove the fat. For one quart of stock allow one pint of 
cream or milk. If cream, use a little less Hour for thickening. 
Boil the stock, add the butter and Hour, cooked together, and 
the seasoning. Strain it over the eggs, stirring as you pour, or 
the eggs will curdle. The liquor in which a fowl or chicken 
has been boiled, when not wanted for any other purpose, 
should be saved for white soup. If the vegetables and spices 
are not boiled with the fowl, fry them live minutes without 
burning, add them to the stock, and simmer fifteen minutes. — 
From Mrs. Lincoln's "Boston Cook-Book." 

Easy Soupe a la Reine. 

Take a small, cold, roast chicken and cut all the meat from 
the bones, chopping it line as possible. In the meantime put 
all the bones in two quarts of cold water, and boil slowly for 
two hours. Add a cup of boiled rice to the meat and pound all 
together to a pidp. Strain the broth on it; stir well and rub 
through a puree sieve. When wanted bring only to boiling 
point, add a gill of good cream, and season with a teaspoon of 
salt and a pinch of white pepper. 

Veal-Stock. 

6 pound knuckle of veal. Celery root, or 

4 quarts cold water. % teaspoon celery seed. 

1 tablespoon salt. 1 onion. 

ti peppercorns. 

Wipe the veal, cut the meat fine and break the bones. Put it 

into the kettle with the cold water. Skim as it boils, and when 

. clear add the seasoning. Simmer until the bones are clean and 

the liquor reduced one-half. Strain, and when cool remove the 

fat. Use it for white or delicate soups. 

Veal and Tapioca Soup. 

For this is required two and a half pounds of neck of veal, 
well broken and the meat in small pieces, two (tip chopped 
onions, one tip) chopped turnip, two stalks of celery, one tea- 
spoon of pepper and two of salt, one bit of mace and three 
quarts of cold water. Put all over and boil slowly and steadily 
for four hours, have a teacup of pearl tapioca soaking in a 
little milk. Strain the soup, skim off all fat, put in the tapioca 
and boil half an hour, stiring it till it has melted. 

Potage Diaphane. 

Cut all the meat from a large knuckle of veal, four to six 
pounds. Break the bones and put them with the meat in a 
soup pot, stone jar or granite-ware kettle, with a bunch of sweet 
herbs, two tablespoon salt, a pinch of mace, half a pound 
of sweet almonds blanched and pounded and four quarts of 
water. Set on back of range and let it stand till next day, 
keeping it just below boiling point. It must be hot, but not 
even simmer, or it will be grey. Next day strain off and boil 
for two hours or till reduced to two quarts, skimming care- 
fully. Strain and cool. Pour off all that will come without 
sediment, heat to boiling point and pour into the tureen on two 
ounces of vermicelli boiled until very tender. 

Velvet Soup. 

One quart of any kind of good stock, one cup cream, sea- 
soned to taste, pour it boiling hot on the beaten yolks of four 
eggs, diluted with 0116-half cup cream Ke-heat and serve at 
once in bouillon cups. 

Mutton Soup with Barley. 

Put all the trimmings from a fore quarter of mutton (neck, 
bones of the shoulder, breast, trimmings of the chops, etc.) in a 
saucepan with two pounds soup-beef, one tablespoon salt, eight 
pepper-corns, a bunch of sweet herbs, a quartered carrot, an 
onion stuck with three cloves, a small turnip, two leeks and a 



stalk of celery; add six quarts cold water and simmer three or 
four hours. Meanwhile wash well and boil separately four ounces 
of barley in one quart salted water two hours. . Cut meat from 
the shoulder in dice and cook it also separately in broth for an 
hour Drain the meat over the mutton-broth, drain also the 
barley, skim the fat from the broth and strain three quarts of 
the broth over the meat and barley. Boil ten minutes, adding 
more seasoning if needed, color with a little caramel and serve 
hot. 

Thick Vegetable Soup, 

One quart of sediment left from clear soup, one qua 
water, quarter cup of pearl barley, one cup each of diced 
turnip, carrot, celery, onion, cabbage and potatoes, salt and 
pepper. 

Wash the barley and let it come to the boil, pour off the lirst 
water and add the quart; let simmer gently for two hours. Then 
add all the vegetables (except the potatoes and celery) scalding 
them first in boiling water. Boil gently till nearly tender 
then add potatoes and celery with salt and pepper. Cook 30 
minutes longer or till all are tender. 

Tomato Soup with Stock. 

Take the bones and trimmings from a roast-beef dinner and 
any other scraps of meat or bone you may chance to have. Put 
them in a kettle and cover with cold water, twice as much 
water as meat. Add two onions, two whole cloves, six pepper- 
corns, a bit of celery root if you have it, and a tablespoon of 
salt. When it has cooked four hours, skim off all the fat, and 
add six tomatoes sliced, or one quart of canned tomatoes. Cook 
another hour, then skim out the bones and meat, and strain 
the liquor through a puree-strainer, rubbing all the tomato-pulp 
through. Heat again and thicken with flour, one tablespoon 
each of butter and Hour for every quart of broth. 

Okra Soup. 

One quart okra, two quarts tomatoes, five lbs. shin of beef, cay- 
enne pepper and salt. Cut the okra in short bits, skin and slice 
the tomato. Cut the meat in thin slices across the grain, and put 
all together with five quarts cold water. Bring to a boil and 
simmer steadily for six or seven hours. Skim well at first, add 
the salt and pepper at the end of the first hour. Remove all 
bones and unsightly pieces and skim off the grease before 
serving. 



Puree of Chestnuts. 



1 pint chestnuts. 
1 pint milk. 
1 cup cream. 



1 tablespoon butter. 
Salt and pepper, 
legg. 



Shell and blanch the chestnuts. Cook in boiling salted water 
to cover, till very soft. Mash them in the water left in the pan, 
and rub them through a tine strainer into the mile. Heat 
again, add the cream, salt and pepper to taste, and when ready 
to serve stir the beaten egg in quickly and serve at once with 
croutons. Add more milk if too thick. — Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. 

Black Bean Soup. 

Soak over night one-half pint black beans. Put them on to 
boil in three pints of w r ater, adding one-half saltspoon soda if 
the water is hard. When the beans begin to soften pour the 
water away and renew, adding some bits of fat meat; ham is 
good but not more than an ounce of any kind should be used. 
Add one small onion sliced and one clove. It may boil fast 
and the beans may be mashed with a potato masher; do not try 
to strain until perfectly soft or the soup will have a granular 
feeling on the tongue, and it should be as smooth as cream. 
Strain through a fine sieve. Add more water or stock if it is 
thicker than "liked. Season to taste and serve over hard boiled 
eggs cut in quarters, and the thinnest possible slices of lemon. 

Oyster Soup. 

Prepare foundation as for soups made with milk, omitting 
onion and celery, and using two tablespoons Hour. Put one 
quart oysters in a large bowl and pour over them one cup 
water take out each oyster with the lingers to make sure no 
shell adheres to it and drain in the colander. Strain the oyster 
liquor through the finest strainer, put it on to boil and skim 
well add the oysters and simmer till they grow plump and 
beci'n to curl on V ^dges. Add oysters to foundation with as 
much of the b s will make it of the right consistency. 

Add more sal' ..u pepper if needed and all the butter it will 
bearwithout Moating on the top. Crackers browned in the oven 
are good with this soup. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Shrimp Soup. 

Parboil one quart of oysters, strain the liquor and put it on 
to boil with one pint of water or veal stock. Thicken with one 
tablespoon of flour cooked in one tablespoon of hot butter, 
and add salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. Frepare one pint 
canned shrimps, remove the black vein and cut them line. 
Add them to the soup. Simmer five minutes then put in the 
oysters and half a cup of rich cream, and when hot serve. 

Corn Chowder, No. 2. 



tablespoons Hour, 
pint milk, 
pint croutons, 
hard-boiled eggs. 



1 quart raw sweet corn. 
1 pint potato dice. 
1 teaspoon salt. 
1 saltspoon pepper. 
i cup butter. 

Cut each row of kernels, and scrape the raw corn from the 
cob. Boil the cobs twenty minutes in water to cover. Pare and 
cut the potatoes into small dice. Pour boiling water over 
them, drain and let them stand while the corncobs are boiling. 
Remove the cobs, add the potatoes, salt and pepper. When the 
potatoes are nearly done, add the corn and milk and cook five 
minutes. Cook the flour in the hot butter, add one cup of the 
corn liquor, and when thick stir it into the chowder. Add the 
eggs, whites chopped fine, and yolks rubbed through a strainer. 
Serve with croutons.— Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. 

Soups Made with Milk. 

(Foundation for Soups Made with Milk). 

One quart milk, one tablespoon butter, one teaspoon chopped 
onion, one-half tablespoon flour, one stalk celery, one teaspoon 
salt, one-half saltspoon white pepper, speck of cayenne, one-half 
teaspoonful celery salt. Cook milk, onion and celery twenty 
minutes in double boiler; cook the flour and butter together five 
minutes, being careful not to brown it, then pour it into the 
soup; add the seasoning and it is ready to finish in any way. 

Mock Bisque. 

simmer one-half quart can of tomatoes till very soft, strain 
it and pour into the foundation after the latter has been 
strained into the tureen. Most palates prefer the addition of 
one-half teaspoonful sugar to the tomatoes. 

Potato Soup. 

Add three boiled potatoes, mashed very fine, to the founda- 
tion; rub through a sieve into hot tureen. 

Celery Soup. 

Add one pint stewed and sifted celery to the foundation and 
strain over one egg beaten to a cream, stirring well. 

Cream of Celery Soup, No. 2. 

Two pounds of veal; a small slice of ham or a ham bone, one 
large bunch of celery, one pint of milk, two tablespoons of 
butter; one onion, one teaspoon of sugar, two tablespoons of 
cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water, three quarts of 
water, salt and pepper. Chop the meat; fry the onion after 
mincing it, in the butter, till a light brown. Chop the celery 
and put all over with the water and seasoning; a teaspoon 
of salt to the quart, and a saltspoon of pepper. As soon as 
the celery is soft, it is to be rubbed through a sieve, and may 
stand till the meat is boiled to rags which will require at least 
four hours. Then strain, add the sugar and the celery with the 
milk, and when at boiling point, the cornstarch and the butter. 
Boil up once and serve. 

Duchess Soup. 

One quart of milk, two onions, three eggs, two tablespoons 
of butter, two of flour, salt, pepper, two tablespoons of grated 
cheese. Put milk on to boil. Fry the butter and onions to- 
gether for eight minutes; then add dry flour, and cook two 
minutes longer, being careful not to burn. Blend with the 
milk, and cook ten minutes. Rub through a strainer, and re- 
turn to the fire. Now add the cheese. Season to taste with 
salt and pepper. Beat the eggs, dilute with two tablespoons of 
soup, strain, and pour slowly into the soup, stirring it briskly. 
It must not boil again but should stand hot for three minutes. 
— Miss Parloqis "Mew Cook-Book." 

pirn 

celery 
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Puree of Cucumbers. 

Pare three or four cucumbers, according to size; cut in slices 
and boil five minutes; drain and cook in a sautoir with four 
ounces of butter, salt, white pepper and nutmeg; set to boil, 
cover and let simmer gently for one hour. Sprinkle four 
ounces of flour over, mix well and dilute with two quarts boil- 
ing milk and a quart veal broth; stir steadily and boil ten min- 
utes. Press through a puree sieve, return it to the sautoir and 
heat till near boiling. Add two ounces butter, cut in small bits, 
one-half teaspoon sugar, one-half pint cream. Serve with 
croutons in the tureen. 

Cream of Asparagus Soup. 

For this delicious soup will be needed one small can of aspar- 
agus and two quarts of white stock. Melt in a large 
saucepan two tablespoon of butter, and when it boils stir 
in three of flour. Stir perfectly smooth, gradually adding the 
broth. Cut off the tips of the asparagus and set aside, adding 
the rest to the broth witti six pepper-corns and a teaspoon 
of salt. Boil for half an hour; strain through a sieve, add the 
asparagus tips and half a cup of cream; bring to boiling-point 
and serve very hot. Often this soup is served with croutons 
souffiSs, which are simply puff-paste rolled thin, cut in bits no 
bigger than a small bean, and fried in boiling lard. Drain 
them on brown paper and put into the soup at the last 
moment. They can also, if preferred, be baked in a quick 
oven, and will be done in two minutes. 

Soupe aux Choux. 

The foundation of this soup is a rich bouillon blanc, or white 
broth made as follows: A large knuckle of choice veal thor- 
oughly cracked and covered with three quarts of cold water, 
adding a tablespoon of salt. As it boils skim off every par- 
ticle of scum. Add one well-scraped carrot, one white turnip, 
three leeks, one well-cleaned parsley root, and two stalks of 
firm celery. Boil very slowly for six hours, then strain through 
a wet cloth into a stone jar, and when cold remove all the fat. 
Choose a very small, firm, white cabbage, shred it fine and put 
in a frying-pan in which a tablespoon of butter is boiling, 
covering close for a few moments. Then add a pint of water 
and stew half an hour, with a teaspoon of salt and half a 
one of white pepper. Run then through a puree sieve. Bring 
the white broth to boiling point, in the meantime making a 
thickening of one tablespoonful of butter to which is added 
two of flour, stiring it till smooth, but not browned. Add 
boiling soup slowly, stirring it constantly till all is smooth and 
creamy; then pour into the soup and add the puree of cabbage. 
Half a cup of cream is often added. 

Cream of Cauliflower Soup. 

Heat one pint of chicken or veal stock, one pint of milk and 
half a cup of sweet cream. When boiling, thicken with one 
tablespoon of fine whole wheat flour, add salt and white pepper 
to taste. Cook half a cauliflower in boiling salted water about 
twenty minutes. Cut off the little flowerets, using none of the 
i stalk, put in enough to thicken the broth. 

Southern Chicken Soup. 

Cut all the meat from a fowl weighing three pounds, reserve 
the breast whole, cut the rest in small bits, break the bones and 
put on with two quarts of water, putting the breast on top of 
the other meat. Cook four hours, skimming often at first. 
Take out the breast as soon as tender, strain and add three table- 
spoons cooked rice, (there should be about three pints of broth), 
the breast cut in dice and one teaspoon minced parsley, salt 
and pepper as desired. 

Soupe a. la Reine. 

Boil a large fowl in three quarts of water until tender (the 
water should never more than bubble). Skim off the fat, and 
add a teacup of rice, and also a slice of carrot, one of turnip, 
a small piece of celery, and an onion, which have been cooked 
slowly for fifteen minutes in two large tablespoons of butter. 
Skim this butter carefully from the vegetables, and into the 
pan in which it is, stir a tablespoon of flour. Cook until smooth, 
but not brown, add this with a small piece of mace. Cook 
all together slowly for two hours. Chop and pound the breast 
of the fowl very fine. Rub the soup through a fine sieve; add 
the pounded breast and again rub the whole through a coarse 
sieve. Put back on the fire and add one and a half tablespoons 
of salt, a fourth of a teaspoon of pepper, and a pint of cream, 
which has come just to a boil. Boil up once and serve. 

an 
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'/- 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Tortue Verte Claire, or, Clear Greet] Turtle Soup. 



For this sonp the turtle should be killed and allowed to bleed 
for twelve hours before using. The sides are to be opened, the 
incut removed and cut in small pieces, which are to be blanched 
live minutes in boiling water. If the turtle is medium sized, 
lift off the top shell, lay it in the soup kettle and cover it with 
white broth, made as in the previous rule. Add a spoonful of 
whole peppers, one dozen cloves, half a bunch of thyme, and six 
bay leaves, all to be tied in a cloth. Add two tablespoons of 
salt, and boil for one hour. Strain the broth, remove the bones, 
and cut the meat in squares the size of dice. Boil the broth till 
reduced three quarters in quantity, then add the meat, and boil 
ten minutes. This is the manner of preparing the whole turtle, 
given by Delmonico. It is then put in small stone jars, and, 
when cool, hot lard is poured over the top. It will keep a long 
time, and simply requires heating when wanted. But for a 
small quantity one can buy a pint of green-turtle meat in mar- 
ket , and prepare it with a quart of white broth t and the same 
treatment as for the whole turtle. A glassful of Madeira wine 
is a great improvement. It can be served with or without the 
meat, the latter making it clear green turtle. 

Puree of Lentils. 

Pick over three pints of lentils and soak over night in cold 
water. In the morning drain and wash them well. Put to boil 
and cook hard and fast till they go to pieces. As the water 
evaporates fill the kettle with good broth until two quarts have 
been used. Shred in a leaf of parsley, four stalks celery, two 
leeks and one onion, four ounces salt pork. Cover and simmer till 
all are soft enough to rub through a puree sieve. Return to the 
stew-pan and add more broth if needed. Skim and finish with 
three ounces butter, one ounce Hour, one teaspoon sugar. Serve 
with slices of lemon in the tureen, and small squares of brown 
bread fried in butter, served separately on a plate. 

Bisque of Crabs No. 2. 

Wash and boil four large crabs. Open them and take out all 
the meat. Cut fine and then pound in a mortar. To three 
pints of white stock highly seasoned, put a teacup of washed 
rice and the crab, and uoil for half an hour. Rub through a 
sieve, boil up once- add a cup of cream, and serve with very 
small croutons. 

Fish Chowder. 

For this, cod, bass, or haddock may be used, but the fish must 
always be a firm, thick one, with few bones, and these carefully 
removed, as well as the skin. Take four pounds of fish, seven 
good-sized potatoes, quarter of a pound of salt pork, two 
onions, one tablespoon of salt, half a teaspoon of white pep- 
per, one tablespoon of butter, one quart milk, eight butter 
crackers. Cut the fish in two-inch pieces and set aside, put- 
ting over the bones and head to boil in a pint of cold water. 
Fare and slice the potatoes about an eighth of an inch thick 
and parboil them for ten minutes; pour off all the water. 
Cut the pork in dice and fry in an omelet pan; then mince the 
unions and fry in the fat. As soon as a light brown, put all in 
a kettle, lay in the potatoes, strain on the water in which the 
bones have boiled with the seasoning, and when all boils, add 
the fish, and simmer for fifteen minutes. Then add butter and 
the hot milk, boil up once more; split the crackers, put them in 
the tureen and pour the hot chowder over them. 

A cup of line cracker crumbs may be added, if a thicker 
broth is desired, or two eggs may be beaten light and mixed 
with the hot milk before it is added to the chowder. 

A teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce is liked by many. 

Puree of Lima Beans. 

One pint of Lima beans; if dry, soak over night in cold 
water; boil in water or stock, or a mixture of water and stock, 
or the thin part of a can of tomatoes (using the thick part 
for escalloped tomatoes), until they are soft. If the water re- 
duces very much, add a little milk, or more stock or water. 
Sift very closely and add salt, pepper and cayenne to taste; if 
you like, add a little onion juice, mace or any other seasoning. 
To keep the thick part from separating, add one scant table- 
spoon of Hour cooked in one tablespoon of butter. Let the 
butter stand in a warm place until it is melted, then rub 
the butter and (lour together until it is perfectly smooth, pour 
in one cup of boiling soup and stir hard; then stir into the re- 
mainder of the soup. Slice three small tomatoes very thin, put 
them into the soup, and it will be ready to serve as soon as it 
boils. Use just enough water when first boiling the beans to 
keep them from sticking to the bottom of the kettle. 

\ 



A Swedish Fish Soup. 

Take one dozen small pan fish, skin and bone them. ' Boil the 

heads and bones in two quarts of water with a tables] nful 

lit and a handful of dried mushrooms. Egg and crumb 
the pieces of Qsh, and fry in boiling lard, letting them drain on 
brown paper, Pare, and chop line a red beet, two onious and 
half a dozen leeks, and a parsley root. Cut line, also I, 
small white cabbage. Cook these separately in salted water 
for half an hour. Strain the fish broth upon then, put the 
tried lish in the tureen and pour broth and vegetables upon 
them. Small dumplings are often added, and sometimes part 
of the lish is minced line and mixed with them. 



Farina Soup. 

One pint boiling water, four tablespoons farina wet with 
cold water, one-half teaspoon salt. Stir the farina into the 
bmling water gradually, cover it and let it boil gently thirty 
minutes, adding milk to thin it until one pint has been used. 
Beat the yolk of three eggs with three tablespoons cream and 
add at the last moment with more salt if needed. This sonp 
should be of a creamy smoothness. 

Soup Pastes. 

A great variety of pastes cut in ornamental forms are used 
in consomme and other soups by the French cook. These pastes 
serve as a garnish and are often very delicious. They add a 
finishing touch to the plate of clear golden consomme or to a 
rich puree, which is the triumph of the master-cook. 

The foundation of most soup pastes and the forcemeats used 
in soups is egg. In the case of the "royal" paste, used by all 
chefs from time immemorial, a simple mixture of eggs and 
milk or cream is used. For this paste, break into a bowl four 
egg yolks and one white; add a scant half saltspoon of cay- 
enne, a scant half teaspoon of salt and a little, nutmeg. 
Beat the egg and seasoning well together; add a gill of cream 
or the same quantity of milk, and strain the whole through a 
fine gravy strainer into little buttered timbal moulds, tiny tin 
cups, that cost about ten cents. These moulds should be set in 
a saucepan with boiling water reaching to half their height, 
and then put in the oven, still in the saucepan, till the paste is 
firm in the centre. As soon as the royal paste is cool enough, 
cut it in slices or in ornamental shapes with a tin star or any 
other fancy cutter and add it to a quart of clear consomme. 

For another paste, beat the yolks of three eggs together and 
add to them three tablespoons of white broth through which 
a chestnut, boiled soft and pounded to a paste, has been mixed. 
Use the large French chestnuts which are sold at large fruit 
stores for culinary purposes, not the small American nuts. Mix 
the eggs and chestnut puree together, season the mixture w r ith 
salt and a little pepper, and cook it like royal paste in moulds. 

An excellent paste is made like royal, with consomme substi- 
tuted for cream; and still another by adding a half teaspoon 
of onion juice to the royal paste before it is cooked. 

Noodles are comparatively unknown in American kitchens, 
though all good German housewives make noodle soup, and 
the French use noodles, or nouilles, extensively in soup and 
served as a vegetable, like macaroni, and in deserts. Noodles 
are simply made, but require care. Take half a pound of Hour 
and sift it on a board. Stir into it three beaten eggs, two table- 
spoons of lukewarm water and an even teaspoon of but 
ter; mix these ingredients together for several minutes and 
gradually add the Hour. Knead the paste for at least ten min- 
utes, folding it over and over like bread dough, and set it away 
for about quarter of an hour Then roll it out— to the thick- 
ness of a "lity-cent piece," says a famous French chef— and cut 
it into strips two inches wide, shredding each one of these 
strips into narrow match-like pieces. Let the noodles lie on 
the board for thirty minutes to drv. and thev are ready for use. 
This is the French method of cutting noodles. The German 
housewife rolls out the noodle paste to the same thinness and 
then forms it into rolls which she slices off at the end in quar- 
ter-inch pieces. These little whorls of paste are dried about 
half an hour longer than are French noodles, and when dropped 
into the soup or boiling water or stock unroll in ribbons of 
paste. Add a cup of French noodles to a quart of clear 
boiling consomme and cook the noodles rapidly for ten min- 
utes; or parboil the noodles for five minutes in plenty of boil- 
ing water and add them drained to the boiling consomme and 
cook five minutes longer. This last method insures a clearer 
consomme. 

Noodles should be stirred with a fork once or twice while 
cooking, to prevent their boiling together, as they sometimes 
do, especially if there is not abundance of liquid around the? . 



10 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Served as a vegetable, French noodles are boiled ten minutes, 
and German twenty, in a large kettle of stock or in water. 
The stock is by no means injured by cooking the noodles, and 
gives them a richer flavor than water. When drained, each 
piece of paste should be distinct. Put them on a vegetable 
platter, and fry in butter half a cup of coarse bread crumbs till 
ve>y brown and crisp. Mix the fried crumbs with the noodles, 
saving part to sprinkle over the top. This is an excellent dish 
to serve with fried chicken, or wherever macaroni is served. 
Noodles are also often dressed like macaroni, with Parmesan 
cheese or with tomato sauce. 

Boiled paste or pate-a-choux, used in making cream cakes, 
eclairs and other dishes, is often formed in little balls the size 
of peas, which are fried and all added to the tureen at the time 
the soup is served. Or they are served separately to each indi- 
vidual dish. A simple rule for this paste is a scanthalf cup of 
butter, a cup of warm water, a liberal cup of flour, a teaspoon 
of sugar and four eggs. Put the butter and water to boil 
over the fire, and as soon as it boils, stir in the flour and sugar 
and set the paste aside for a few moments, then stir in the 
eggs one by one. Let the paste rest for half an hour. For 
soup balls roll out a cupful of the dough in bits the size of 
peas and fry them in hot lard. 

"Spun eggs'' are simply beaten eggs seasoned and passed 
through a colander into clear boiling consomme, where they 
form vermicelli-like pieces. Square croutons for soup should 
be cut in pieces about half an inch square, dried thoroughly 
and fried in butter a golden brown, not in lard. American 
housewives frequently add dumplings or little biscuits to their 
boiling soups, with the inevitable result of heavy leaden little 
pieces of dough. This is a certain result if the dumplings are 
dropped into the liquid, which must permeate them before they 
have time to rise. If the bits of dough are laid on a buttered 
steamer, covered and cooked in the steam over the soup for ten 
minutes, they will be ready to serve, light and delicious, but 
must be served as soon as ready. 

Marrow Balls. 

One tablespoon finely cut marrow, three tablespoons fine stale 
crumbs, one teaspoon chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. 



Work to a smooth paste with the fingers, adding a little raw 
egg if needed to make it smooth. Form in balls the size of a 
filbert. Drop into the boiling soup and simmer about fifteen 
minutes. 

Spinach Balls. 

Equal bidk of finely chopped spinach that has been well 
seasoned, and very fine dry bread crumbs. Season highly with 
pepper, salt and cayenne. Add enough white of egg to moisten 
well, then stand aside to stiffen. Shape in balls size of a 
hickory nut; poach in the hot soup for five minutes and serve 
three or four to each plate of clear soup. They are especially 
pretty in cream of Spinach Soup. 

Sponge Balls. 

Put the whites of two eggs in a teacup, fill the cup with 
milk and pour the contents into a stewpan; add one teacupful 
of flour and one ounce of butter (or size of an egg): stir well 
over the fire until the batter is thick and smooth; set it to cool, 
after which stir into it the two yolks, a few pinches of salt, a lit- 
tle mace (if liked), and drop into the boiling hot soup, a teaspoon- 
ful at a time. Cook from eight to ten minutes. — Mrs. Bayard 
Taylor's Letters to Young Housekeepers. 

Forcemeat Balls. 

Scrape fine enough raw lean veal (or chicken) to make one- 
half pound. Soak two ounces of bread (free of crust) in milk, 
when soft pour it in a clean towel and squeeze dry; add two 
onuces butter, the scraped meat, and the yolk of two eggs, 
pound the whole smooth, and force through a rather coarse 
sieve. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Form into 
almond shaped balls between two teaspoons. Cook about ten 
minutes in stock that must only simmer. 

Hani Dumplings. 

Proceed as above, using lean ham with parsley or a few drops 
of onion juice; leaveout saltand nutmeg. Chop fine and pound 
to a paste, but it need not be sifted. Shape in larger balls, about 
the size of a pullefs egg, and cook in stock. They should be as 
light as sponge and may be served in consomme. 



HTHE: 



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In the many standard books on cookery clear explanations 
about the composition and value of flesh foods are to be found, 
with full instruction about marketing, the best cuts, etc. The 
reader is referred to these for a careful study of the subject. 

In a book of recipes there is room fur only general principles, 
but the following table compiled from the "Diaetetisches 
Kochbuch" of Dr. Wiel furnishes material for profitable study 
and frequent reference. 

Water. Albuminoids. Fats. Mineral Matter. 

Lean beef 76.5 21.0 1.5 1.0 

Medium fat beef. . . 72.5 21.0 5.5 1.0 

Very fat beef 55.5 17.0 26.5 1.0 

Medium fat mutton 76.0 17.0 6.0 1.0 

Fat mutton 48.0 15.0 36.0 1.0 

Lean pork 72.0 20.0 7.0 1.0 

Tat pork 47.0 14.5 37.5 1.0 

The excessive amount of water found in underfed meat is 
largely lost in cooking, and being so much waste shows clearly 
the great economy in buying only well fattened meats. 

There are a few simple principles to be considered in cooking 
meats and one of the most important points is that much of 
its value depends upon the albumen and fibrine contained in 
it; since both of these become hard and indigestible when 
exposed to a high temperature, it follows that while we expose 
the surface of meat to a fierce heat, until the outside is seared 
sufficiently to keep in the juices, the bulk of the meat should 
be cooked at a temperature much below boiling point, from 
160° to 200° allowing sufficient time to thoroughly soften the 
connective tissues. 

Roasting. 

All meats should be raised at least an inch from the bottom 
of the baking-pan, using a trivet or rack made for the purpose. 
Hub the joint well with salt and pepper and dredge with as 
little flour as will insure a dry surface. Very lean meat is 
improved by having thin slices of fat meat, either bacon, pork 
or its own fat laid over the surface at first until there is 
sufficient dripping to baste with. 

Do not add water to the pan until within an hour of taking 
up; it is better not to use any, but after the meat has been 
lifted to the platter, drain off all the grease, add enough thin 
broth to dissolve the glaze left in the pan, and use this for 
gravy, either "an jus" or thickened slightly with brown roux. 

Braising. 

Braising is particularly adapted for meats that are lacking 
in flavor or are tough. A deep pan with a close fitting cover 
is necessary; granite ware is the most satisfactory for small 
ones, while larger ones should be made of Russia iron with 
folded seams, as both pan and cover must be without solder. 

A true braising kettle should have an iron lid with a 
depression for holding hot coals and ashes — but satisfactory 
results can be obtained from an ordinary pan with tightly 
fitting cover. 

The covered pans sold as "roasters" are really braising pans 
and owe their excellence to the fact that the two parts fit 
together so tightly as to confine the steam, thus this meat is 
cooked in its own vapor. The most stubborn pieces will yield 
to the persuasion of a braising pan and become tender, 
especially if a few drops of lemon juice or other acid be added 
to the gravy in the pan. This affords an opportunity to render 
coarse pieces savory by laying them upon a bed of vegetables 
or sweet herbs; while dry meats can be enriched by the 
process known as daubing. (See page 12). 



Broiling. 

The fire for broiling must be clear, and for meats it should 
be hotter and brighter than for fish. Coals from hard wood or 
charcoal are best, but in all large towns and cities hard coa! is 
nearly always used, except in hotels and restaurants, where 
there is usually a special place for broiling with charcoal. The 
double broiler is the very best thing in the market for broiling 
meats and fish. When the meat is placed in it, and the slide is 
slipped over the handles, all there is to do is to hold the broiler 
over the fire, or, if you have an open range, before the fire. A 
fork or knife need not go near the meat until it is on the dish. 
A great amount of the juice is saved. If the old fashioned 
broiler is used, let the meat be turned with two long handled 
forks having blunted points that will not make holes for the 
juice to run. Meats broiled over a fire should be turned as 
often as every fifteen seconds, but when under a gas flame, it 
need be turned only once to secure a good brown on both sides. 

Pan-broiling. 

Heat a cast-iron or steel frying-pan to a blue heat. Rub it 
with a bit of the fat meat till well oiled, but do not leave any fai 
in the pan. Season the meat and lay in the pan just long enough 
to sear thoroughly, then turn and sear the other side and 
continue turning often enough to keep the juice from escaping. 
Cook about four minutes for a slice one inch thick. Ifthepanis 
hot enough and the fat drained away as fast as it cooks out, this 
is not frying but broiling on a hot surface instead of over coals. 

Frying. 

To fry is to cook in deep hot fat; the fat must be deep enough 
to float whatever is placed in it, or toentirely cover such articles 
as do not float, and while its temperature is far below the 
boiling point of fat (565° to 600°) it should be much hotter than 
the boiling point of water. About 400° is best for most kinds 
of meat or fish, while preparations of flour and egg will cook at 
a much lower degree, 360° being hot enough for any batter or 
dough. If one has no thermometer, test the fat with a small 
bit of the dough, and for croquettes draw a match over the 
surface; it should light at once. 

An equally important condition is that the article should 
either contain albumen, or be coated with beaten egg to insure 
a fat-proof crust. Mixtures containing egg will generallv form 
such a crust at once, but meat, fish, etc , should be wiped as 
dry as possible, and then rolled in fine bread-crumbs to dry 
them thoroughly, coated with beaten egg and rolled in bread- 
crumbs again. The safest way is to put in all articles a few at 
a time, adding fresh pieces as fast as the fat re-heats. 

A Scotch bowl is the best utensil for frying; a woven wire 
egg-beater is needed to move and lift the food, and a broad, flat 
wire basket for draining when first lifted from the fat, laying it 
afterwards on soft paper. The best fat for frying is undoubtedly 
olive oil, but it is too expensive for general use in this countrv, 
the next best thing yet invented is the cottolene put up by 
N. K. Fairbank. There is no longer any excuse for using the 
penetrating grease known as drippings, or almost equally 
objectionable lard. Have ready slices of raw potato to put 
into the fat the instant the last piece of food is removed, as it 
loses its heat so slowly that it will go on browning even if 
removed from the fire. If cooled quickly and carefully 
strained each time the same fat can be used repeatedly. 

Boiling. 

In boiling as in roasting the general principle is to subject 
the meat to a high degree of heat at first and until a layer of 
albumen hardens over the entire surface. The temperature 
should then be dropped much below boiling point, some 
authorities say as low as 160°, and kept there until the gelatine 



12 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



and connective tissues are softened to almost the point of 
dissolving. Let the meat partly cool in the liquor, and if the 
slices are served on very hot plates, they will be juicy, tender 
and well-flavored, an titter contrast to the tasteless, stringy 
abomination usually offered under the name of boiled meat. 

The same treatment applies to all kinds of stews. 

Those who like to kill two birds with one stone may take a 
lesson from the French fashion of serving bouillon. It may be 
varied to advantage as follows: When ordering the standard 
amount of meat for soup, six pounds, ask for two more 
and see that there is one solid piece of three pounds or 
more, neck or low down on the round will do, trim 
this to shape, brown well on every side over coals and 
tie compactly with eight or ten turns of cord. Cut the 
rest of the meat fine and crack bones as usual, add the cold 
water and four drops of muriacic acid for each pound of meat, 
that is, if eight pounds were ordered and four were reserved to 
brown, there will be left four in the kettle for soup and these 
will take sixteen drops of acid, stir well and set in a cool place 
for two hours. During this time the juice of the meat will have 
been extracted thoroughly and will require less cooking than 
usual. Heat gradually and when it really boils put in the 
browned meat. Cook gently until the meat is tender, adding 
such vegetables as you wish in time to have them done 
together, they should be parboiled first for five minutes and, if 
they are wanted to serve with the meat for the day's dinner, 
should not be cut up as usual for soup. If boiled meat is not 
liked for dinner it maybe kept for lunch or breakfast; it is 
good sliced cold or it can be used in a hash, a stew or cro- 
quettes. 

Daubing. 

Cut pieces of fat salt pork about one-third inch square and 
as long as the meat is thick. Cut a slit through the meat with 
a narrow boning-knife, force the strips of pork quite through 
till they show on the opposite side; this takes much less time 
than to lard and answers very well except when the appearance 
of the finished dish is to be considered. 

Larding. 

Is usually applied to the tenderloin of beef when roasted 
whole, to the thick part of the leg of veal, the breast of turkey 
or grouse and to liver; it is also nice for a large fish. 

Select a piece of clear, fat salt pork, having fine, close grain 
and pinkish color, shave off the rind as closely as possible, cut 
the meat in slices parallel with it, from one-eighth to one-fourth 
of an inch thick, cut these again into strips of the same width 
and lay on ice till used. With a larding-needle draw these 
strips into the meat in hand, taking pains to have the stitches 
evenly distributed (they are usually set in alternate rows) until 
the whole upper surface is covered. 

A short, deep stitch will make the ends of the lardon stand 
up, and is more ornamental than a shallow one. Directions for 
boning will be given in full with the recipe for boned turkey. 

Roast Beef. 

One of the best pieces for roasting is the tip of the sirloin. 
Have the backbone trimmed very close, cut the ribs close to the 
solid part of the meat and remove them from the flank part. 
Roll the flank end toward the backbone and with a large needle 
and twine secure it by two or three stitches through the tough 
skin. Do not wash, but sponge with a wet cloth, rub lightly 
with pepper and salt and dredge on flour enough to dry 
the surface. Put plenty of flour in the bottom of the pan 
if a thickened brown gravy is wished. Lay on the rack 
with the serving-side down at first. If the oven is hot 
enough it will need to be turned in about an hour. 
Watch carefully, basting every fifteen minutes, and as soon 
as well browned on all sides pour in enough water to cover 
the bottom of the pan. Let the water cook away toward the 
last, so that the fat can be poured away. After the meat is done 
set it into a hot closet, but do not cover while making gravy. 
Add one pint hot water to the sediment left in pan after the 
fat has been poured off. Place on the stove and scrape all the 
glaze from bottom and side of the pan. When it boils add a 
thickening made of two teaspoons of flour, rubbed smooth 
with four tablespoons of cold water, pouring it in slowly, as 
it is not possible to know just how much the browned flour 
already in the pan will help to thicken it. Boil well, add salt 
and pepper to taste and strain into a hot sauce-bowl. 

Yorkshire Pudding. 

Beat two eggs very light, add one scant teaspoon of salt and 
two-thirds pint of milk, pour half a cup of this mixture on 
one-half cup of flour, and stir to a smooth paste, add the 



remainder of the mixture and beat well. Bake in hot gem- 
pans forty-five minutes. Baste with the drippings from the 
beef. This is a more convenient way than to bake in the pan 
under the beef, and gives more crust. Serve as a garnish for 
roast beef. 

French Roast. 

If the piece of meat be lean or of second quality it will be 
improved by rubbing it well with a preparation of four table- 
spoons salad oil, two tablespoons chopped parsley, one sliced 
onion, two bay-leaves, juice of one-half lemon. Rub meat 
well all over and let it lie from eighteen hours to two days, 
turning in the dressing once or twice. Baste the meat with the 
same dressing, adding salt and pepper to taste. Serve "au jus"' 
as in plain roast. 

Fillet of Beef, Larded. 

The true fillet is the tenderloin, although sometimes one will 
see a rib roast, boned and rolled, called a fillet. A short fillet, 
weighing from two and a half to three pounds (the average 
weight from a very large rump), will suffice for ten persons at 
a dinner where this is served as one course, and if a larger 
quantity is wanted a great saving will still be made if two 
short fillets are used. They cost about two dollars, while a large 
one, weighing the same amount, will cost five dollars. First, 
remove from the fillet with a sharp knife every shred of muscle, 
ligament and thin, tough skin. If it is not then of a good 
round shape, skewer it into shape. Draw a line through the 
centre and lard with two rows of pork, having them meet at 
this line. Dredge well with salt, pepper and flour, and put, 
without water, in a very small pan. Place in a hot oven for 
thirty minutes. Let it be in the lower part of the oven the 
first ten minutes, then place on the upper grate. Serve with 
mushroom or tomato sauce, or with potato balls. If with 
sauce, this should be poured around the fillet. The time given 
cooks a fillet of any size, the shape being such that it will take 
half an hour for either two or six pounds. Save the fat 
trimmed from the fillet for frying, and the lean part for soup 
stock. — Miss Parloa. 

Rolled Rib Roast. 

Either have the butcher remove the bones or do it yourself 
by slipping a sharp knife between the flesh and bones— a 
simple matter with almost any kind of meat. Roll up the 
piece and tie with strong twine. Treat the same as plain roast 
beef, giving the same time as if it were a piece of rump (one 
hour and a half for eight pounds), as the form it is now in 
does not readily admit the heat to all parts. This piece of beef 
can be larded before roasting or it can be larded and braised. 
Serve with tomato or horseradish sauce. 

Pot Roast. 

Four to six pounds from the middle or face of the rump, the 
vein or the round. Wipe with a clean wet cloth. Sear all over 
by placing in a hot frying-pan and turning till all the surface 
is browned. Put in a kettle with one cup of water and place 
it where it will keep just below the boiling point. Do not let 
the water boil entirely away, but add only enough to keep the 
meat from burning. Have the cover fitting closely to keep in 
the steam. Cook until very tender, but do not let it break. 
Serve hot or cold. The meat when cold is delicious, cut in 
quarter-inch slices and sautud in hot butter. 

Braised Beef. 

Trim a piece weighing about four pounds into a smooth 
shape, lard it on each side with three or four pieces of salt 
pork, let it marinate for twelve hours in the juice of one lemon, 
one tablespoon salad oil, one tablespoon salt, one table- 
spoon peppercorns, a sprig each of thyme and parsley. 
Brown the meat well on all sides in a frying-pan, then lay it in 
the braising-pan on a bed of chopped onion, carrot and parsley, 
pour in boiling water to half cover and cook in a moderate 
oven two hours or more until very tender, turn once in the 
time, lift the meat onto a hot platter, skim the fat from the 
gravy and skim out the vegetables to serve with the meat if 
liked. Thicken the gravy with one heaping tablespoon of 
flour and strain it over the meat. This dish is often served with 
a garnishing of several different kinds of vegetables cooked 
separately in clear water and arranged around it. It is then 
called & la jardiniere. 

Beef Steak. 

Have it cut thick. It will never be good, rich, and juicy if 
only from one fourth to one half an inch thick. It ought 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



13 



to be at least three-quarters of an inch thick. Trim off any 
suet that may be left on it, and dredge with salt, pepper, and 
Hour. Cook in the double broiler, over or before clear coals, lor 
ten minutes, if it be rare; twelve, if to be rather well done. 
'ruin the meat constantly. Serve on a hot dish with butter and 
salt, or with mushroom sauce, maitre d'Hotel butter, or 
tomato sauce. Do not stick a knife or fork into the meat to 
try it. This is the way many people spoil it. Pounding is 
another bad habit; much of the juice of the meat is lost,— Miss '• 
Paiioa. 

Pan Broiled Steak. 

Wipe and trim as above. Heat an iron frying pan smoking 
hot Sprinkle salt and pepper on the steak and lay in the pan. 
sear each side quickly, then draw back to cook more slowly 
about four minutes, turning often. When done lift to a hot 
1 .latter, and spread with soft butter, or better dissolve glaze in 
frying pan in two or three tablespoons hot water and pour 
over the steak. 

Broiled Meat Cakes or Hamburg Steak. 

Chop raw lean beef quite fine, season with salt, pepper and a 
little chopped onion or onion juice. Make it into small flat 
cakes and broil on a well greased gridiron, or in a hot frying 
pan. Serve very hot with butter or Maitre d'Hotel sauce. 
The flank end of the sirloin is better when cooked in this man- 
ner than when broiled with the other part of the steak. 
Make the proportion about one-fourth fat to about three-fourths 
lean meat. The seasoning for this is in the proportion of one 
teaspoon of salt, one saltspoon pepper and a few drops of 
onion juice for one pint of meat after it is chopped. 

Mark Twain's Beef Steak. 

"They have the beefsteak in Europe, but they don't know 
how to cook it. Neither will they cut it right. It comes on the 
table in a small, round pewter platter; it is the size, shape, and 
thickness of a man's hand with the thumb and Angers cut off. 
It is a little overdone, it is rather dry, it tastes perfectly insip- 
idly, it rouses no enthusiasm." This is painfully true if one 
has in mind such a porterhouse steak as may be found on many 
American tables: "a mighty one an inch and a half thick, hot 
and spluttering from the gridiron; dusted with fragrant pepper, 
enriched with little melting bits of butter of the most unim- 
peachable freshness and genuineness; the precious juices of the 
meat trickling out and joining the gravy; archipelagoed with 
mushrooms; a township or two of tender yellow fat gracing an 
outlying district of this ample county of beefsteak, the long 
white bone which divides the sirloin from the tenderloin still 
in its place." 

What to do with Cold Beefsteak. 

Chop the best and most tender portions, add hot water 
enough to moisten slightly, heat quickly, and serve as soon as 
hot. Add butter, salt and pepper. The tough parts of steak or 
of roast-beef are much more palatable if boiled first in water to 
cover until tender. Then use them in any of the ways given 
for cold meat, as croquettes, hash, mince on toast, stew, ragout, 
meat and potato pie, braised meat, etc. 

Beefsteak Pate, 

Chop one pound of best round steak till it is a soft pulp. 
Season highly with salt and pepper. Add a little of the tender 
fat also chopped fine. Mix two beaten eggs with one pint of 
milk. Pour this slowly into one cup of flour mixed with one 
teaspoon of baking-powder. When well mixed, stir it thor- 
oughly into the meat. Bake in a moderate oven about an 
hour. 

Stewed Steak. 

For this, a cut from the round is good enough. First pan 
broil till well browned, add water to nearly cover. Cover 
closely and simmer till very tender. Lift the meat to a deep 
platter, skim the gravy if it shows much fat, add to it one table- 
spoon flour wet in cold water, more salt and pepper if needed, 
and a few drops of catsup or horse radish. 

Corned Beef. 

Select a piece of lean beef well streaked with fat that has 
been corned only three clays. When it is possible, choose the 
meat before corning, and request the marketman to send it in 
three days. Wash it carefully and put it into boiling water. 
Simmer (not boil) until very tender. Cool in the stock. Then 
press between two plates and serve in thin slices. 



Scotch Roll. 

uove the tough skin from about live pounds of the flank 
of beef, A portion of the meat will be found thicker than the 
list. With a sharp knife, cut a thin layer from the thick part, 
and lay it upon the thin. Mix together three tablespoons 
of salt," one of sugar, half a teaspoon of pepper, one eighth 
of a teaspoon of clove, and one teaspoon of summer 
savory. Sprinkle this over the meat, and then sprinkle with 
three tablespoons of vineger. Roll up, and tie with twine. 
Put away in. a cold place for twelve hours. Whenit lias stood 
this time, place in a stewpan, with boiling water to (-over, ami 
simmer gently for three hours and a halt. Mix four heaping 
tablespoons of Hour with half a cupful of cold water and 
stir into the gravy. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 
Simmer half an hour longer. The dish is good hot or cold. 



Beef a la Mode. 

Four to six pounds of beef from the underside of the round, 
cut thick. Wipe and trim off the rough edges. Put in a deep 
dish and pour over it spiced vinegar made by boiling live 
minutes one cup vinegar, one onion chopped fine, three tea- 
spoons salt and one-half teaspoon each whole mustard, pepper, 
clove and allspice. Let the meat stand several hours, turning it 
often. Then daub it with several strips of salt pork one-third 
of an inch wide and as long as the meat is thick. Tie it into 
good shape with a narrow strip of cotton. Dredge it with flour 
and brown all over in hot drippings. Cut two onions, one-half 
a carrot and one-half a turnip fine and fry them in the same 
fat. Lay the vegetables in a deep braising-pan (of granite 
ware if possible), the meat on top, with some bits of parsley 
and thyme, pour over the spiced vinegar, adding enough beef 
broth or water to half cover. Cover closely and simmer four 
hours, turning once meantime. Take up carefully, remove the 
strings and lay on a large platter. Remove fat from the gravy, 
add more seasoning if needed, thicken with brown roux and 
strain it over the meat. — Adapted from "Boston Cook Book." 

Beef Stew. 

Two pounds of beef, the round, flank or any cheap part, (if 
there is bone in it, two and a half pounds will be required), one 
onion, two slices of carrot, two of turnip, two potatoes, three 
tablespoons of flour, salt and pepper to taste and a generous quart 
of water. Cut all the fat from the meat and put it in a stewpan, 
fry gently for ten or fifteen minutes. In the meantime cut the 
meat in small pieces and season well with salt and pepper, and 
then sprinkle over it two tablespoons of flour. Cut the 
vegetables in very small pieces and put in the pot with the fat. 
Fry them five minutes, stirring well to prevent burning. Now 
put in the meat and move it about in the pot until it begins to 
brown, then add the quart of boiling water. Cover, let it boil 
up once, skim, and set back where it will just bubble for two 
and a half hours. Add the potatoes, cut in thin slices, and one 
tablespoon of flour, mixed smooth with half a cupful of 
cold water, pouring about one-third of the water on the flour 
at first and adding the rest when perfectly smooth. Taste to 
see if the stew is seasoned enough, and if it is not, add more 
salt and pepper. Let the stew come to a boil again and cook 
ten minutes, then add dumplings. (See page 5<»). Cover 
tightly and boil rapidly ten minutes longer. 

Mutton, lamb or veal can be cooked in this manner. When 
veal is used, fry out two slices of pork, as there will not be 
much fat on the meat. Lamb and mutton should have some of 
the fat put aside, as there is so much on these meats that it 
makes them too rich. 

Beef Stew with Peas. 

3 pounds soup meat. 1 slice carrot. 

3 quarts cold water. % slice turnip. 

1 large onion. 2 potatoes. 

1 tablespoon salt. 1 pint split peas. 
1 saltspoon pepper. 

Choose the meat from the under part of the round, face of 
the rump, aitch-bone or the remainder of roast beef. Remove 
all the slivers of bone. Cook it four hours. When it begins to 
boil, remove the scum and fat. Cook the peas in another 
kettle in water to cover, and as the water boils away replenish 
with water from the meat. Keep the meat covered with water 
and when half done add the vegetables, all cut fine, and the 
seasoning. When ready, serve the meat by itself. Rub the 
peas through a puree-strainer, and, after removing the fat, add 
the peas to the meat-liquor. Season to taste and serve very 
hot. Cut the meat in small pieces and serve it in the stew. — 
Mrs. Lincoln. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Braised Tongue. 

Wash a fresh beef tongue of three pounds and fasten the tip 
to the roots with a stout string. Cover with boiling water and 
cook gently two hours. Peel, trim, and cool slightly; rub with 
Hour and brown all over in a deep pan or kettle. There should 
be six ounces of fat, half butter and half dripping, in which 
have been cooked for five minutes one tablespoon each, carrot, 
turnip and onion. Cover the tongue half way with the stock in 
which it was boiled; a bit of cinnamon, a clove, a bouquet of 
sweet herbs may be added to the necessary salt and pepper 
Cook slowly two hours. At the last half hour the juice of half 
a lemon is put in. When perfectly tender take up, melt two 
tablespoons of glaze and pour over it, set in a warm place while 
the gravy is made. Add one tablespoon corn starch dissolved in 
water and stir into the gravy, which should be reduced to a pint. 
Boil five minutes and pour around the tongue on a hot platter. 

Baked Tongue. 

Wash a fresh ox tongue, put it in a saucepan with some car- 
rots, turnips, a celery root, pepper, salt, and plenty of water; 
boil it, removing the scum as it rises. When soft, take it out of 
the pan and skin it, cut up an onion and a little lemon-peel 
very finely; brown them in bacon fat, make holes in the tongue, 
and fill them with the mixture, return it to the saucepan with 
part of the liquor in which it was boiled, and steam it for a 
few minutes, then place it in a baking-dish, mix half a pint of 
cream with some of the liquor, baste the tongue with it and 
bake it a nice brown. Cut it in slices, lay them in the centre 
of a dish, pour the sauce over and serve with baked potatoes 
round them. 

Escaloped Tongue. 

Chop some cold tongue, not too fine, and have for each pint 
one tablespoon of onion juice, one teaspoon of chopped 
parsley, one heaping teaspoon of salt, one teaspoon of capers, 
one cup of bread crumbs, half a cup of stock and three table- 
spoons of butter. Butter the escalop dish, and cover the 
bottom with bread crumbs. Put in the tongue, which has 
been mixed with the parsley, salt, pepper and capers, and add the 
stock, in which has been mixed the onion juice. Put part of 
the butter on the dish with the remainder of the bread crumbs, 
and then bits of butter here and there. Bake twenty minutes 
and serve hot. 

Tongue in Jelly. 

Boil and skin either a fresh or salt tongue. When cold, trim 
off the roots. Have one and a fourth quarts of aspic jelly in 
the liquid state. Cover the bottom of a two quart mould about 
an inch deep with it and let it harden. With a fancy vegetable 
cutter, cut out leaves from cooked beets and garnish the bottom 
of the mould with them. Gently pour in three tablespoons of 
jelly, to set the vegetables. When this is hard add jelly enough 
to cover the vegetables, and let the whole get very hard. Then 
put in the tongue, and about half a cup of jelly, which should 
be allowed to harden, and so keep the meat in place when the 
remainder is added. Pour in the remainder of the jelly and set 
away to harden. To serve: Dip the mould for a few moments 
in a pan of warm water and then gently turn on to a dish. 
Garnish with pickles and parsley. Pickled beet is especially 
nice. 

Fillets of Tongue. 

Cut cold boiled tongue in pieces about four inches long, two 
wide, and half an inch thick. Dip in melted butter and in 
flour. For eight fillets put two tablespoons of butter in the 
frying-pan, and when hot put in the tongue. Brown on both 
sides, being careful not to burn. Take up, and put one more 
spoon of butter in the pan, and then one heaping teaspoon of 
flour. Stir until dark brown, then add one cup of stock, half a 
teaspoon of parsley and one tablespoon of lemon juice or one 
teaspoon of vinegar. Let this boil up once and then pour it 
around the tongue, which has been dished on thin strips of 
toast. Garnish with parsley and serve. For a change, a table- 
spoon of chopped pickles or of capers, can be stirred into the 
sauce the last moment. — Miss Parloa. 

Beef Olives. 

One and one half pounds of beef, cut very thin. Trim off the 
edges and fat; then cut in strips three inches wide and four 
long; season well with salt and pepper. Chop fine the trim- 
mings and the fat. Add three table-spoons of powdered cracker 
one teaspoon of sage and savory mixed, one-fourth of a tea- 
spoon of pepper, and two teaspoons of salt. Mix very 
thoroughly and spread on the strips of beef. Boll them up and 
tie with twine. When all are done, roll in flour. Fry brown a 



quarter of a pound of pork. Take it out of the pan, and put 
the olives in. Fry brown, and put in a small stewpan that can 
be tightly covered. In the fat remaining in the pan put one 
tablespoon of flour, and stir until perfectly smooth and brown; 
then pour in, gradually, nearly a pint and a half of boiling 
water. Stir for two or three minutes, season to taste with salt 
and pepper, and pour over the olives. Cover the stewpan, and 
let simmer two hours. Take up at the end of this time and cut 
the strings with a sharp knife. Place the olives in a row on a 
dish, and pour the gravy over them. 

Sauteing. 

What is often called frying, that is, cooking the article 
in a shallow pan with a little fat, browning first one 
side and then the other; is not really frying, and there is no 
word in English for it. The French call it saute and it will 
answer very well for omelets, pancakes and many other things 
that are just browned in butter, but is only adapted for dishes 
that are to be lightly cooked. 

MUTTON AND LAMB. 

Roast Lamb. 

Choose a rather large shoulder, have it lifted from the ribs 
and with a sharp knife remove the shoulder blade and bone of 
the leg. Sponge carefully and rub inside and out with pepper, 
salt and fine mint, rub soft butter on the outside and dust with 
flour. Place in very hot oven for ten minutes or till flour is 
brown, then reduce the heat and baste with dripping from the 
pan or any sweet beef dripping. Turn at the end of forty-five 
minutes and roast one and one-third hours for a six pound 
shoulder. 

Gravy. 

Drain off fat from dripping-pan, dredge in two tablespoons 
flour and brown well. Add one pint water in which the bones 
have been boiled and rub smooth. Add more salt and pepper 
if needed and one tablespoon lemon juice. Strain and send to 
the table in a hot sauce bowl. 

Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce. 

Rub the saddle of lamb with salt and butter, and while 
roasting baste frequently with the gravy and salted water. 
Cook ten minutes to a pound. The sauce is made from young 
leaves of mint chopped fine, adding two tablespoons of 
powdered sugar to three tablespoons of mint; after mixing 
add six tablespoons of white wine vinegar or cider, pouring 
it slowly over the mint. In order to extract all the flavor of 
the mint the sauce should be made in advance of dinner-time 

Roast Mutton. 

Roast mutton is cooked in the same way, but the piece 
chosen is usually the leg or loin. The leg is greatly improved 
by having the bone removed and filling its place with a stuffing 
made of one coffee cup coarse cracker crumbs, one teaspoon 
salt, one saltspoon pepper, one teaspoon mint, dried and 
powdered, moisten with melted butter. 

Roast Shoulder of Mutton. 

Remove the bone and fill the space with a moist stuffing 
made with grated stale bread crumbs, highly seasoned with 
butter, salt, pepper and thyme. Add the yolk of one or two 
eggs and enough warm water to soften the bread thoroughly. 
Put the bones and scraps of meat in a kettle with barely water 
enough to cover, lay the stuffed shoulder on them and let the 
whole simmer gently for an hour or more to make it tender. 
Lift onto the rack in a roasting-pan, dredge with salt, pepper 
and flour and bake an hour or till tender. Use the water in 
the kettle for basting and for gravy, with a little butter and 
flour at the last to froth the surface. Garnish with forcemeat 
balls made from its own trimmings. 

Imitation Barbecue of Mutton. 

Roast the mutton as usual, but about one hour before it is 
ready to serve, prepare the following mixture: 

One-third cup each of Worcestershire sauce, tomato catsup, 
and vinegar, saltspoon pepper, one rounded teaspoon mustard. 
Stick the meat all over with a sharp pointed knife, pulling the 
gash open and filling with the mixture just prepared. If any 
is left pour it over the roast when it comes to the table. This 
is excellent. 

Leg of Lamb a la Frangaise. 

Put a leg of lamb, weighing about eight pounds, in as small 
a kettle as will hold it. Put in a muslin bag one onion, one 
small white turnip, a few green celery leaves, three sprigs each 



two-, 
one-ha. 



i. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



15 



of sweet marjoram and summer savory, four cloves and twelve 
allspice. Tie the bag and place it in the kettle with the lamb, 
then pour on two quarts of boiling water. Let this come to a 
boil and then skim carefully. Now add four heaping table- 
spoons of flour, which has been mixed with one cup of 
cold water, two tablespoons of salt, and a speck of cayenne. 
Cover tight and set back where it will just simmer for tour 
hours. In the meantime make a pint and a half of veal or 
mutton force-meat, shape into little balls and fry brown. 
Boil six eggs hard. At the end of four hours take up the 
lamb. Skim all the fat off the gravy, and take out the bag 
of seasoning. Now put the kettle where the contents wiil 
boil rapidly for ten minutes. Put three tablespoons of 
butter in the frying-pan, and when hot stir in two of flour, 
cook until a dark brown, but not burned, and stir into the 
•navy. Taste to see if seasoned enough. Have the whites and 
oiks of the hard boiled eggs chopped separately. Pour the 
gravy over the lamb, then garnish with the chopped eggs, 
making a hill of the whites, and capping it with part of the 
yolks. Sprinkle the remainder of the yolks over the lamb. 
I 'lace the meat balls in groups around the dish. Garnish with 
parsley and serve. — Miss Parloa. 

Braised Breast of Lamb. 

With a sharp knife remove the bones from a breast of lamb, 
then season it well with salt and pepper, roll up and tie 
firmly with twine. Put two tablespoons of butter in the 
liiaising-pan, and when melted add one onion, one slice of 
carrot and one of turnip, all cut fine. Stir for five minutes 
and then put in the lamb, with a thick dredging of Hour. 
Cover, and set back where it will not cook rapidly, for half an 
hour, then add one quart of stock or boiling water and place in 
the oven, where it will cook slowly for an hour. Baste often. 
Take up the meat, skim all the fat off the gravy and then 
put it where it will boil rapidly for five minutes. Take the 
string from the meat. Strain the gravy and pour over the dish. 
Serve very hot, or serve with tomato or Bechamel sauce. The 
bones should be put in the pan with the meat, to improve the 

gravy< Broiled Mutton. 

Select lean mutton from the leg or any other lean part. 
Remove the fat and membranes. Put it on a board and chop 
or pound with an iron meat-hammer until broken to a pulp. 
Fold over and press into a mass half an inch thick, take it up 
carefully and broil in a fine wire gridiron well greased. Turn 
it often and cook it quite rare. Serve very hot with butter and 

Ballotin of Lamb. 

Bone a shoulder of lamb, leaving the end for a handle. Sew 
it up with a needle, tie it firmly and boil for five minutes. 
Take out and cool, then lard it as for a f ricaudeau. Put a slice 
of bacon in a saucepan with one tablespoon minced onion and 
one of carrot, brown the lamb with these for five minutes, 
add a pint of white broth and cook for one hour. The sauce 
should reduce one-half, thicken slightly, pour it over one pint 
boiled green peas and lay the lamb upon them. 

Haricot. 

Fry an onion, then cut all the fat from eight mutton chops, 
tlour them well and brown them with the onion. Cover with 
water and stew slowly two hours. Then add tomato or any 
other vegetable. Or cover at first with a quart of sliced tomato 
instead of water. Pepper and salt. 

Sanders. 

Mince cold mutton with seasoning and enough gravy to 
moisten. Put into patty-pans, cover with mashed potatoes and 
brown. Boiled Leg of Mutton. 

Leg of mutton when boiled to a turn is a very acceptable 
joint and also a very profitable one for small families, as many 
excellent dishes may be prepared from that not used at the 
first meal. Many suppose that mutton should be well done, 
but this is an error. It should be cooked about the same as 
"medium" roast beef, and red juice should follow the knife 
when carving. Rare mutton is indigestible. Put the leg in an 
oval boiler, cover it with plenty of fast boiling water, slightly 
salted, skim off the rising scum, as it will discolor the joint if 
it comes in contact with it. A medium sized leg of mutton 
requires only two hours and a half to boil. A puree of young 
spring turnips, with a sauce made of melted butter, with small 
capers added to it, is the proper accompaniment. 

Lamb Tongues a la Soubise. 

Parboil, scrape and pare as many tongues as you wish to 
serve persons, put in saucepan with salt, parsley, celery, pepper- 
corns and water enough to cover. Cook slowly till very tender, 



drain and keep warm while the liquid is strained, freed from 
fat and reduced to a demi-glaze, pour a little soubise sauce (see 
page 42) in a dish, cut tongues in two and arrange in a rosette, 
pour more sauce in the center and the demi-glaze over the 
meat and serve. 

Leg of Mutton or Lamb Rechauffe. 

Slice the tender part into nice pieces for serving. Cut up the 
trimmings and bones and stew with an onion in water to cover 
until tender. Strain, remove the fat, heat again, and thicken 
the liquor with flour cooked in hot butter. Add one teaspoon 
of mixed mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Simmei 
minutes, then add the sliced meat and two tablespoons of 
capers, and serve as soon as the meat is hot. There should be 
about one cup of sauce to a pint or more of meat. 



VEAL. 

Gouffu, the great authority on French cookery, says that a 
veal cutlet when well trimmed weighs seven or eight ounces, 
and that it is cut from the neck of the veal. This is plainly 
not the veal cutlet of our market. The thick por- 
tion of the neck of veal which the French make into the most 
delicious little cutlets is utilized here chiefly for potpies and 
stews. 

By purchasing the entire fore-quarter of veal we may secure 
it at a very low price, because of the breast, which, though it is 
a most delicious cut when properly stuffed and braised, is little 
known and generally despised. This fore-quarter contains the. 
ribs, which correspond to the favorite rib-roast of beef. 
From these are cut the best chops, which become less choice in 
quality the nearer we come to the neck. The rack of veal, as 
the chops are known to the marketmen, cut entire, makes an 
excellent roasting piece, equalled only by the loin and the fillet. 
It is probably to be preferred for this purpose in a well-grown 
calf. Sometimes the breast of veal is left on and turned over 
on the ribs to allow for a stuffing roast, but this is not a good 
plan. The ribs require quite a different treatment from the 
breast. The neck of the veal, after the scrag end, is passed, 
which is only fit for broth and stews, may be cut into excellent 
little breakfast cutlets or chops, as they would probably be 
called in our markets, though the true chop is always taken 
from the ribs. The fleshy portions of the foreleg or shin of 
veal, make excellent potpies or stews, and the leg itself may 
be used for soup or stock. 

A roast-rack of veal is most properly served by itself without 
stuffing. Season the meat thoroughly with salt and pepper, 
rub it with butter and dredge it with flour and lay it on a rack 
in the dripping-pan. The oven should be heated very hot at 
the beginning, and the roast should be turned twice in the firs; 
fifteen minutes to thoroughly glaze the surface of the meat and 
seal up its juices. After this a cup of boiling water should be 
poured in the bottom of the pan, and the meat should be 
basted with a little broth or stock and roasted steadily for an 
hour and a quarter longer, basting once in every fifteen 
minutes. After the first basting, the liquor in the bottom of 
the pan may be used for this purpose. If the liquor in the 
bottom of the pan seems exhausted after the basting, add a 
little more water to it to prevent its burning. Eight potatoes 
peeled and laid in the pan during the last three-quarters of an 
hour that the meat is roasting are an excellent garnish and 
accompaniment. Sweet potatoes are especially good cooked in 
this way. The potatoes should always be basted when the 
meat is basted to insure their being well flavored with the 
juices of the meat and nicely browned. 

Shoulder of Veal. 

Veal at its best and well cooked is wholesome, but 
under-done veal is a thing to be shunned. Chop the ends 
of the ribs into neat square pieces and use them next day as an 
entree. Take out the shoulder blade without cutting the meat 
more than is absolutely necessary. If the butcher does not 
remove the blade it may be accomplished as follows: Lay the 
joint on the table, outer or skin part downwards, make 
incisions on both sides of the knuckle until the smallest end is 
free from the meat; now keep the knife close to the bone, using 
care not to cut through the outer skin. Pull on the bones 
firmly with the left hand while cutting. When the bone is 
quite free disjoint it at the socket and remove it. Then stuff 
the meat with well seasoned bread or rice stuffing, turn it over 
and put it in the pan, add a very little water and a sliced onion. 
Salt and pepper the joint. Add also a little sweet butter to 
prevent the outside pan drying too much, baste frequently and 
cook an hour and three-quarters. 



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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Fillet of Veal, Roasted. 

About eight or ten pounds of the fillet, ham force-meat (see 
rule for force-meat), half a cup of butter, half a teaspoon 
of pepper, two tablespoons of salt, two lemons, half a pound 
of salt pork. Rub the salt and pepper into the veal, then fill 
the cavity from which the bone was taken, with the force- 
meat. Skewer and tie the fillet into a round shape. Cut the 
pork into thin slices and put half of these on a tin sheet that 
will fit into the dripping pan; place this in the pan, and the 
fillet on it. Cover the veal with the remainder of the pork. 
Put hot water enough in the pan to just cover the bottom, and 
place in the oven. Bake slowly for four hours, basting 
frequently with the gravy in the pan and with salt, pepper and 
fiour. As the water in the pan cooks away, it must be renewed, 
remembering to have only enough to keep the meat and pan 
from burning. After it has been cooking three hours, take the 
pork from the top of the fillet, spread the top thickly with 
butter and dredge with flour. Repeat this after thirty 
minutes, and then brown handsomely. Put the remainder of 
the butter, which should be about three tablespoons, in a sauce- 
pan, and, when hot, add two heaping tablespoons of flour, and 
stir until dark brown. Add to it half a pint of stock or water; 
stir a minute and set back where it will keep warm, but not 
cook. Now take up the fillet and skim all the fat off of the 
gravy, add water enough to make half a pint of gravy, also the 
sauce just made. Let this boil up and add the juice of half a 
lemon, and more salt and pepper if needed. Strain and pour 
around the fillet. Garnish the dish with potatolpuffs and slices 
of lemon. 

Roast Veal, No. 2. 

Six pounds breast of veal, boned, sponged and pounded to 
uniform thickness; rub both sides with salt and pepper and lay 
Hat on board. Spread evenly with stuffing to within an inch of 
the edges, roll loosely and sew or tie in shape. Dredge well 
with flour, lay on a rack in the dripping-pan, laying thin narrow 
strips of fat salt pork over the upper side. Set on a grate in a 
very hot oven till the surface is well browned, then bake more 
slowly, covering the meat with a buttered paper if it browns too 
fast. Allow a full half hour for each pound, with an extra 
half hour if the roast is large. Baste once in twenty minutes 
with two tablespoons butter melted in one cup hot water, or 
add water to the drippings in the pan and use. 

Stuffing: One pint fine bread or cracker crumbs, one level 
teaspoon salt, one tablespoon thyme or summer savory, one 
scant teaspoon white pepper, one-half teaspoon onion juice. 
Moisten with one egg well beaten, two heaping tablespoons 
butter melted in one cup hot water, or use one inch salt pork 
chopped fine in place of butter. 

Fricandeau of Veal. 

Cut a block weighing about three pounds from the leg, 
remove the sinews and lard the top with rather small strips of 
salt pork. Brown it lightly in a frying-pan and lay on a bed of 
one sliced carrot, one sliced onion and a bouquet. Season with 
one scant tablespoon salt, a dust of pepper; cover the bottom 
of the pan with white broth and cook in a braising pan for one 
and one-half hours, basting occasionally. Serve with one-half 
pint puree of spinach on the dish, placing the veal on top. 

Galantine of Veal, No. 1. 

Take a piece of breast of veal, about twelve to fourteen 
inches long; bone and trim it carefully, removing all gristle 
and superfluous fat, as well as some of the meat (about one 
pound.) Take the meat and one-half pound of fat bacon; 
pound together in a mortar, season with powdered spice and 
sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, then pass the mixture 
through a wire sieve. Cut one-half pound of boiled tongue 
in pieces about an inch square; cut half a dozen truffles, each 
into three or four pieces. Lay the prepared breast of veal, skin 
downwards on the table, sprinkle it with pepper, salt and 
powdered spices; lay the pounded meat, the truffles, and the 
tongue on it, then roll it up neatly as a roly poly pudding, and 
tie it up tightly in a cloth. Put all the trimmings and bones of 
the breast into a saucepan large enough to hold the galantine, 
add a calf's foot cut in pieces, the trimmings of the bacon 
(they must be perfectly sweet), two or three onions and two 
carrots cut in pieces, a clove of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs 
(thyme, marjoram, parsley and bay leaf), cloves, whole pepper, 
mace and salt in proportions, according to taste. Fill up with 
such quantity of cold water as will leave room for the galan- 
tine to be put in. Set the saucepan on the fire, when the 
contents begin to boil put in the galantine. Let it boil gently 
without interruption from two to two and a half hours. Then 
lift it out, put it on a plate, and when it has cooled a little take 



off the cloth, tie it up afresh, and lay it between two dishes 
with a moderate weight upon it, to remain till cold. Care must 
be taken in this last operation that the "seam" of the galantine 
be made to come undermost. When quite cold undo the cloth, 
glaze the galantine, and garnish it with savory jelly made from 
the liquor in which it was boiled. 

Veal Loaf. 

Three and one-half pounds of minced veal (the leg is best for 
this purpose), three eggs well beaten, one tablespoon of pepper 
and one of salt, one grated nutmeg, four rolled crackers, one 
tablespoon of cream, butter the size of an egg. Mix these 
together and make into a loaf, roast and baste like other meats. 
Beef may be used in place of veal by adding one-fourth pound 
of salt pork, minced fine. 

Veal Pot-Pie. 

.One quart pieces of cold cooked veal, either roast or braised. 
Season with one scant teaspoon salt,one-half saltspoon pepper, 
one teaspoon shredded onion, pile loosely in a three pint or two 
quart pan, fill to almost cover the meat with gravy, stock or 
water. Cover and set on top of stove to heat while making 

Crust: One quart flour, one even teaspoon salt, two heaping 
teaspoons baking powder, one heaping tablespoon butter, well 
rubbed together. Mix as quickly as possible with enough cold 
milk to make a soft dough. Shape on the board into a flat cake 
to fit the pan. Cut holes to let the steam escape, lay quickly 
over the boiling meat and bake about forty minutes in a rather 
hot oven. While baking make 

Gravy: Put all bones and scraps into one pint cold water, 
cover and set where it will simmer as long as possible. When 
wanted for use brown one tablespoon flour in one tablespoon 
butter, strain the hot stock over it, stirring well. Boil three 
minutes, adding more seasoning if needed, and serve with the 
pie. If the pie is to be eaten cold, pour this gravy through the 
crust to bed the pieces of meat in a jelly. 

Calf's Head, Tortue Sauce. 

Take out the brains and lay them in ice-cold salted water. 
Wash the head thoroughly and cover with cold water, boil 
until the flesh will drop from the bones; lift from the kettle and 
take out every bone; put the kettle, with the water in which the 
head was boiled, back on the range, and add to it a knuckle of 
ham or a half pound of lean ham. When this soup has boiled 
three hours gently, strain it into a stone jar, and leave it until 
the next day for moclt turtle soup. 

Cut the thick skin and flesh of the calf's head into two-inch 
strips and keep it warm. Make the Tortue Sauce thus: One 
and one-half pints of brown consomme, one bay leaf, the 
liquor from half a can of mushrooms, half a can of tomatoes; 
boil about fifteen minutes and strain. Put it back into a sauce- 
pan with a dozen mushrooms cut into halves, one truffle 
chopped finely, and one large wineglass of sherry. Let it boil 
for five minutes, stirring in at the last one teaspoon of blended 
flour; boil up once and pour over the calf s head. Garnish with 
new beets sliced, water cresses or parsley. 

Veal Tongues. 

Lay fresh veal tongues in brine for twenty-four hours, then 
wash and drop into boiling water enough to cover well. Bring 
to boil again as quickly as possible and boil fast five minutes; 
then set back where it will only simmer, and skim well. As it 
boils away fill up with cold water. Allow one hour to each 
pound of a large tongue, in cooking small ones remove as soon 
as tender. Peel carefully, reheat and serve with Sauce 
Piquante. Page 43. 

Veal Tongues, a la Tartare. 

Have ready six veal tongues which have been boiled till 
tender, the skins removed, and rolled neatly, pressed between 
two plates until cold. Dip each in egg and bread crumbs, 
brown well on each side in hot butter. Dish them u-pon cold 
Tartare sauce, garnish with pickles and serve. These are 
delicious when cut in small bits and heated in a Hollandaise, 
Bechamel or any good sauce that can be made in a chafing-dish. 

Calf's Liver. 

Calf's liver is braised in the same way as the fricandeau of 
veal, except that sweet herbs are added to the broth, and just 
before serving one-half pint of Spanish sauce is poured over it. 
It will cook in forty-five minutes. Strain the thickened gravy 
over and garnish with small boiled onions. 



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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



17 



SWEETBREADS. 

Sweetbreads. 

Sweetbreads are found in calves and lambs. The demand 
for salves' sweetbreads has grown wonderfully within the past 
ten years In all our large cities they sell at all times of the 
year for a high price, but in winter and early spring they cost 
in. ire than twice as much as they do late in the spnngand 
during' the summer. The throat and heart sweetbreads are 
often sold as one, but in winter, when they bring a very high 
price the former is sold for the same price as the latter. Ihe 
throat sweetbread is found immediately below the throat. It 
has an elongated form, is not so lirm and tat, and has not the 
S tine flavor of the heart sweetbread. The heart sweetbread is 
' attached to the last rib, and lies near the heart. The form is 
somewhat rounded, and it is smooth and firm. 

To Clean Sweetbreads. 

Carefully pull off all the tough and fibrous skin. Place 
them >in a dish of cold water for ten minutes or more, and 
they are then ready to be boiled. They must always be boiled 
in Slightly salted water with a little lemon juice twenty min- 
utes, no matter what the mode of cooking is to be. 

Sweetbreads Larded and Baked. 

When the sweetbreads have been cleaned, draw through 
each one four very thin pieces of pork (about the size of a 
match). Drop them into cold water for five or ten minutes, 
then into hot water, and boil twenty minutes. Take out, 
spread with butter, dredge with salt, pepper and flour, and 
bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. Serve with green peas, 
well drained, seasoned with salt and butter, and heaped in the 
center of the dish. Lay the sweetbreads around them and 
pour a cream sauce around the edge of the dish. Garnish with 
parsley. One pint of cream sauce is sufficient for eight or ten 
aweetbreads. 

Sweetbread Saute. 

One sweetbread, after being boiled, split and cut into four 
pieces. Season with salt and pepper. Put in a small frying- 
pan one small tablespoon of butter, and the same quantity of 
flour When hot put in the sweetbreads, turn constantly until 
a light brown. They will fry in about eight minutes. Serve 
with cream sauce or tomato sauce. 

Broiled Sweetbreads. 

Split the sweetbread after being boiled. Season with salt 
and pepper, rub thickly with butter and sprinkle with flour. 
Broil over a rather quick fire, turning constantly. Cook about 
ten minutes and serve with cream sauce. 

Sweetbreads in Cases. 

Cut the sweetbreads, after being boiled, in very small pieces. 
Season with salt and pepper and moisten well with cream 
sauce. Fill the paper cases, and cover with bread crumbs. 
Brown and serve. 

Sweetbreads Braised. 

Take six blanched sweetbreads, lard the upper side slightly 
and saute them with some bits of fat pork; add one-half cup 
each of sliced onion and carrot and a bouquet, dredge with salt 
and flour and bake until a golden brown, then moisten with 
one pint strong white stock. Cover with a buttered paper and 
cook in a hot oven forty minutes, lifting the paper often to 
baste them. They will then be ready to serve with any desired 
sauce. 

Spindled Sweetbreads. 

Soak, parboil and blanch as usual. Cut in two inch pieces, 
moisten each piece with melted butter and roll in very line 
seasoned bread crumbs. String on skewers alternately with 
bits of bacon and broil over a hot fire till brown. Lay on toast 
and garnish with parsley, or stack them and garnish with 
celery. 

Brown Fricassee of Sweetbreads. 

Parboil ten minutes Remove fat and membranes, dredge 
with flour and fry till quite brown in butter with a minced 
onion.A4jUt> the butter one cup of veal stock and two table- 
oi«- ■-' .dhroom ketchup, or half a cup of tomatoes and 
-spoon of chopped parsley. Season to taste with salt 
• _. pepper, cover, and stew slowlv for half an hour. Strain 
the gravy and pour it over the sweetbreads. 



Bouchees de Riz dc Veau (Sweetbread Patties). 

From what is left of a dish of stewed sweetbreads, cut up as 
many small dice, as is possible. Tak the sauce or 

gravy, make, it hoi in a bain marie, strain it on the sweetbread 
make the whole boiling hot in the bain marie, and till the 
patties with it. if the sweetbreads were garnished with mush- 
rooms, treat what is left Of the mushrooms in the same way as 
the sweetbreads, and put the two together to warm in the sauce. 

Croustades dc Riz de Veau (Sweetbread Croustadc 

Fill some bread or rice croustades with a ragout composed of 
remnants of Stewed sweet breads, warmed in brown sauce, with 
the addition of either truffles or mushrooms, or both. 



PORK. 

The main points in buying pork are to purchase from a 
dealer who has all his meat tested by a microscopist, and then 
to choose young meat, not over-loaded with fat. In whatever 
manner pork is cooked it should be thoroughly done, twenty 
minutes to the pound is none too much. 

Pork Chops and Steaks. 

Chops are cut from the loin and ribs; cuts from the leg and 
shoulder being known as steaks. Either piece is best cooked 
by laying them in a frying-pan until well seared on each side, 
then drain off all the fat and set into a hot oven for live or ten 
minutes, according to the thickness of the piece. Season with 
pepper and salt just before laying in the pan, and serve with 
fried apples or a pickle gravy. 

Pork steaks, chops and even roasting pieces may be cooked 
ready to serve then covered with lard. They will keep per- 
fectly for weeks, and when wanted the lard can be melted, the 
meat reheated, and any sauce desired served with them. 

Roast Pork. 

The chine, loin, and the spare-ribs, are the best pieces for 
roasting. Rub well with pepper or sage, salt and flour, and 
bake twenty minutes for each pound. Baste often and do not 
have the oven as hot as for other meat. Roast pork is more 
wholesome when eaten cold. Serve Pomona rice. 

Roast Leg of Pork. 

If used with the skin on score it in inch squares, taking care 
to cut only through the skin. Make a cut just below the 
knuckle with a boning knife, slide the knife up along the bone 
and turn it outward, making a half-dozen cuts two-thirds of 
the way to the skin and till them with* this: 

Stuffing: One cup grated bread crumbs, one medium 
sized sour apple and one small onion chopped fine (chop the 
onion to a paste before the apple is put in), six powdered sage 
leaves, two tablespoons butter, pepper and salt; melt the butter, 
add the crumbs, rubbing them hard to distribute the butter 
evenly, add the seasonings and two beaten egg yolks. Half an 
hour before serving sprinkle with one tablespoon cracker 
crumbs seasoned with pepper, salt and sage; do not baste again. 
Serve with this apple sauce. Wipe, quarter and core twelve 
tart cooking apples; steam till tender and sprinkle with four 
tablespoons sugar and a little salt, Do not make it too sweet; 
if the apples are not much sour add the juice of a half lemon. 

Roast Pork. 

The choicest piece is the loin, but the spare-ribs are good. 
The meat is usually cut quite close from these and used for 
steaks, but if a nice roast is wanted order the meat left on. 
Follow the general directions for roasting and allow thirty 
minutes for each pound. Serve with apples roasted in the 
same pan or fried, or with canned barberries. Save all the 
dripping from the baking pan and see that the glaze is all dis- 
solved. If the oven has not been too hot this fat will serve for 
frying and the gravy can be made to serve with the cold roast 
when it is really nicer. 

The loin does not require so long cooking, twenty minutes to 
the pound, with a quarter hour's grace, will do. 

The chine or rump is liked by many, but the meat is dry; it 
may be daubed with salt pork or stuffed in a half dozen places 
with the following: 

Stuffing: Three tablespoons grated crumbs, one table- 
spoon finely chopped salt pork, ten drops of onion juice, one- 
half teaspoon sage, one-half saltspoon pepper. Gash the meat 
with a boning knife and press the stuffing in. Baste often. 



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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Pork Tenderloins, No. 1. 

Split open and broil. Brown well and thoroughly, but do not 
burn. Season with pepper, salt and one freshly powdered sage 
leaf for each one. If very dry rub with soft butter. 

No. 2. 

Split, but do not cut quite in two, put in a layer of oysters 
that have been dipped in soft butter and then in seasoned 
bread crumbs. Wind with coarse thread a dozen turns, but not 
too tight, brown on each side quickly and then lift from the 
fire for ten minutes more cooking. Tartar sauce. 

No. 3. 

Split and fry in pan with butter. Allow one tablespoon 
chopped pickles with mustard to each one, heat in butter and 
pour over. 

No. 4. 

Split them nearly through, so that they will lie flat. Make a 
dressing with bread, butter, salt, pepper, onion and a little sage. 
Spread the dressing on one-half the tenderloin, turn the other 
half over it and sew all around. Bake. 

Fricatelli. 

Chop one pound raw fresh pork very fine, add one teaspoon 
salt, one saltspoon pepper, one-half teaspoon onion juice (half 
as much stale bread crumbs), two eggs beaten together, mix 
well, taste, add more seasoning if needed. Shape in cakes the 
size and thickness of a large oyster. Pan-broil them on as hot 
a pan as possible. If there is any fear that they are not 
thoroughly cooked, transfer to a tin plate and set in oven 
but they should not be kept on the pan more than two 
minutes for each side. Good for breakfast with baked or 
fried potato, For supper serve with parsley and lemon or cold 
slaw. 

Pork Pie. 

English style. Take two pounds of fresh raw pork— neck or 
trimmings will do— cut it in pieces the size of an English wal- 
nut, season with salt and pepper and two glasses sherry or di- 
luted vinegar; let it steep an hour and turn it once in ten 
minutes; have one pound of good and fine sausage meat. 
Take one measure of pie paste (see page 62), and line the 
bottom and sides of a well buttered pie mould, put a thin 
layer of sausage on the bottom, then half the pork, another 
layer of sausage, the rest of the pork, and finish with sausage 
meat. Wet the edge of the pie, roll the cover to fit, pinch the 
two edges lightly, egg the surface, ornament with pretty shapes 
of the paste, cut a two inch hole in the center and fill with a 
roll of paper to keep it open; brush again with egg and bake 
in a moderate oven for about three hours; the oven should be 
quick enough to set the paste for the first half hour, and as 
soon as the meat steams up reduce the heat. When done, fill 
with meat jelly; allow it to cool thoroughly in the mould, then 
take it off and serve on a folded napkin. It is quite as good, 
though not so ornamental* if baked in an ordinary two-quart 
pan. Do not cover the bottom with crust; make a rim two 
inches wide and half an inch thick; fill and cover as before. 
Cut the rest of the paste in leaf shapes, bake in a quick oven 
and arrange on the jellied meat when the pie is turned out. 
Set the broad ends in the center and put rounds or stars of 
paste on the outer edge between their tips. 

Breakfast Bacon. 

Remove the rind, slice as thin as paper with the same machine 
that is used to slice dried beef. Lay the slices in a cold pan and 
set over a moderate fire. Watch and turn them often and as 
soon as they look opaque, tilt the pan, draw the slices up from 
the grease to dry, and transfer to a thick brown paper to drain 
before laying them on the platter. They should hardly grease 
the fingers, and should be perfectly crisp. 

Breakfast Bacon, No. 2. 

Slice the bacon very thin, cut off the rind and hard part 
before slicing. Fill a shallow pan with cold sweet potatoes 
sliced. Cover the potatoes with the bacon and bake until the 
pork is crisp. 

Fried Salt Pork. 

Cut in quarter inch slices, take off the rind, freshen if very 
salt, fry slowly and evenly till dry. It is a good garnish for 
fish, fish balls, tripe, etc., and is quite good enough to serve by 
itself with baked potatoes and a white gravy made like a white 
sauce, only the fat from the pork is used instead of butter. If 
there is much salt in the pan see that it is mostly removed 
before beginning the gravy. 



Roast Hani. 

Wash and scrape carefully and soak in cold water twenty- 
four hours. Scrape again and dry thoroughly. Make a dough 
with two quarts of flour and water enough for a stiff paste. 
Roll this into a sheet large enough to wrap the ham; fold the 
ham in it and place on a meat rack in the dripping pan. Bake 
in a moderate oven six hours. On taking from the oven 
remove the paste and skin, sprinkle with fine crumbs and return 
to the oven for half an hour. Dust very carefully with cayenne 
and baste every five minutes with wine, using one cup claret 
and two tablespoons sherry. It will be delicious either hot or 
cold, and is especially nice if served hot with champagne sauce. 

Stuffed Ham. 

Soak a ten to twelve pound ham in cold water over night. 
In the morning remove the bone and fill with stuffing. Sew up 
the slit where the bone was taken out and bind the ham firmly 
in a strong piece of cotton. Boil slowly for two or three hours 
and cool in the bandage. When cold, remove the rind and 
brown fat. Sprinkle with sugar and fine crumbs. Bake about 
one hour in a very moderate oven and serve either hot or 
cold. 

Stuffing: One pound of pecans or chestnuts, one can 
mushrooms, six truffles, one slice raw ham, one ounce mustard 
seed, two cucumber pickles. Boilthe nuts till they are tender 
enough to chop fine. Cut the truffles into strips and chop all 
the other ingredients. Season to taste with one-half saltspoon 
red pepper, one saltspoon allspice, one saltspoon cloves, two 
tablespoons parsley, one tablespoon onion and salt and add 
enough raw egg to make the whole into a soft paste. 

Boiled Hani. 

Soak in cold water until the outside can be scraped and 
brushed clean; cut away every bit that seems rusty. Put it in 
a boiler where it will have plenty of room and can be covered 
an inch deep. It should be two hours in coming to a boil, then 
simmer fifteen minutes for every pound. It should cool in the 
pot, but if this cannot be, let it stand two hours at least. To 
finish in the oven peel the skin carefully in two inch strips, 
brush with beaten egg and dust thickly with fine bread crumbs. 
Set in an oven quick enough to brown in fifteen minutes. 

Make rings or figures with cloves stuck in the crust before 
browning, add a paper ruffle to the shank bone before sending 
to table; if served hot, send in cauliflower, cabbage, saurkraut, 
asparagus, spinach or some sort of greens. It is also very 
handsome bedded in sapic and ornamented with vegetables cut 
in fancy shapes and cooked separately in stock. To glaze a ham 
after cooking and peeling, brush with beaten egg and coat with 
a paste made of one cup cracker crumbs made into a smooth 
paste with one cup milk and tablespoon melted butter; brown 
in a moderate oven. French cooks add a teaspoon powdered 
sugar to the bread crumbs, and there is no objection if they are 
sure to be browned enough to change all the sugar to caramel. 
There are many modifications of this rule; Mrs. Rorer adds a 
bay leaf, a blade of mace and six cloves to the water when 
first put on. Another famous cook adds one pint sour wine for 
e/ery five pounds, another uses all cider with a good handful 
clean hay, still another boils half the allotted time and 
finishes in a moderate oven, basting every fifteen minutes with 
vinegar. In any method the main point is to heat gradually, 
cook slowly and cool in liquor. Of course, if vinegar or sour 
wine is used the cook will not put it in an iron pot; agate, alum- 
inum or porcelain lined will do. 

Broiled Ham. 

Cut in very thin slices, remove all the fat and if very salt 
lay the lean part in hot water for a few minutes. Lay the fat 
in a frying pan and cook as directed for breakfast bacon, but 
let come to a delicate brown. Dry the lean part on a soft 
towel and broil quickly. It will take about two minutes for 
each side if the fire is as hot as it should be. 

Potted Ham. 

When a ham is boiled there is often much waste of the 
harder portions and of pieces that do not make presentable 
slices. Take them while fresh and mince until a smooth paste 
so that the fat cannot be distinguished from the lean; 
there should be one-third fat. Allow one pepperspoon cayenne 
to each pound of meat and salt to taste. Heat thoroughly and 
pack firmly in small pots. 

Ham Puffs. 

Ham puffs are a change that will be relished by many. Stir 
a pint of flour into a pint of boiling water; beat it well. Take 
it from the fire and beat in four eggs, one at a time; add the 



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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



19 



Jftam, about three ounces of it, finely chopped, two-thirda of a 
teaspoon of curry powder, a pinch of cayenne pepper and a 
little salt, unless the ham is salt enough without it. Into a 
pan of deep lard drop this batter, a small desert-spoon at a 
time, fry a golden brown and decorate with paisley. 



Roast Pig. 

It should be from three to six weeks old. Choose it like a 
chicken, plump, with small bones. They arc always scalded 
and scraped by the butcher, but this is not half the business of 
cleaning. If there is a strong animal odor wash thoroughly in 
warm water, then in soda and water for five minutes; during 
this time cleanse all the passages of the head and throat 
with a wooden skewer wrapped in a .small piece of 
soft cloth, changing it often; wash again with clear 
water and wipe inside. If it is not time to cook wrap 
in a wet cloth to keep the skin soft and white and keep 
cool. It may be tilled with mashed potato, veal force meat 
or a stuffing made as follows: One cup bread crumbs, one 
heaping tablespoon chopped suet, one teaspoon each of 
minced parsley, sage, salt and onion, one-half teaspoon pepper, 
a dust of nutmeg and one of thyme, one tablespoon lemon 
juice and two of melted butter, a cup of oyster liquor (plain 
stock will do), and two well beaten eggs. Stuff the pig into its 
natural size and shape, sew and truss. Bend the fore feet 
backward from the knee and the hind legs forward. Set in a 
moderate oven at first and increase the heat gradually. In half 
an hour begin basting: use melted butter until there is enough 
fat from the pig; brush thoroughly once in ten minutes, cove" 
the ears and tail with caps of oiled paper, serve in a bed of 
prrsley.with a lemon in the mouth (this should be propped 
open from the first with a potato of the same size). It is quite 
as agreeable also to serve surrounded with heaps of cauliflower 
and to put a handful in its mouth; the sprigs hide the shrivelled 
skin better than the lemon does. 



Ears. (Calf or Pig, No. 1.) 

Parboil six well scalded and cleaned white calves' ears. 
Cook in a saucepan with a white stock made with a glass of 
vinegar, an ounce of flour and water enough to cover the ears; 
add one teaspoon salt, a small onion stuck with two cloves, one 
dozen peppercorns and one tablespoon chopped beef suet; boil, 
cover and simmer until tender, — about an hour. With tomata 
sauce. Drain, pare, cut out the centers, cool and fill with 
cooked force meat (one good teaspoon is enough) (see page 38). 
If they lie too flat put a long stitch through the edges, about 
half way down and tie in position; egg and crumb and fry in 
deep fat, not too hot. Drain and serve on a folded napkin 
with fried parsley and serve with lemons cut in lengths. Send 
in a bowl of tomato sauce. — Felix J. Beliee in "Franco- Amer- 
ican Cookery." 

No. 2. With mushrooms. Prepare as before; range the ears 
point outward on a platter and pour in the center one pint 
fresh mushrooms in Madeira sauce; lay a heart-shaped crouton 
of fried bread between each of the ears. — Felix J. Beliee . 

No. 3. Lyonnaise. Prepare as directed; drain, cool and cut 
into shreds; fry brown two sliced onions in butter, sprinkle 
with one tablespoon flour and blend with a pint of beef broth, 
add salt, pepper and a teaspoon of vinegar, boil ten minutes, 
add the ears and boil ten minutes longer. Serve in a shallow 
dish garnished with six triangles of brown bread sautiied in 
butter. — Felix J. Beliee. 

Braised Liver. (Veal). 

Scald slightly by pouring boiling water over, remove the thin 
skin that covers it and pull out as many of the large veins as 
can be removed without breaking it too much. Lard the upper 
side and dredge with pepper, salt and flour and brown all over 
in hot drippings. Lay on a bed of vegetables and parsley in a 
pan not much larger than will hold it easily. Half cover with 
some good beef broth, cover closely and set into a hot oven for 
about one hour. Baste every fifteen minutes and leave it open 
to brown the top at the last. Thicken the liquor in the pan 
with a tablespoon of cornstarch, add more seasoning and cara- 
mel to color if necessary and strain the gravy around the liver 
on a deep platter. 

Heart. 

The heart is often stuffed with a tablespoon of bread-crumbs 
well seasoned with thyme, onion juice, salt and pepper and 
moistened with melted butter. Lard the sides with three rows 
of fine lardoons, brown it well and lay by the side of the liver. 
It will need to be turned once or twice. 



Stewed Liver. 

Parboil for twenty minutes, thei, , inch dice, freeing 

from skin and strings. Have ready a pint of good brown 

sauce, add one gil] of cooking wine, a pint and a hall of 
liver; let simmer till the liver is soft, add more seasoning if 
needed and serve with a garnish of broiled potatoes. 

Chicken Livers en Brochette. 

Clean and parboil as usual, roll in seasoned dour and string 

them on a skewer alternately with small squares of b 
Broil over a clear fire until the baron is crisp. Serve on | 
If one has a gas stove, by all means lay the pieces of toast 
under the skewer to catch the dripping gravy. Send quai 
lemon to the table with it. 

Liver with Chestnuts. 

Boil the livers from two fowds or a turkey. When tender 
mash them line. Boil one pint of shelled chestnuts until soft. 
Blanch and mash them to a smooth paste. Rub the ■ 
and liver through a puree-strainer. Season to taste with salt, 
pepper and lemon juice and moisten with melted butter. 
Spread the paste on bread like sandwiches, or add enough hot 
chicken stock to make a puree. Heat again and season with 
salt, pepper and lemon juice.— Mrs. B. A. Lincoln. 

Liver and Kidneys. 

Liver and kidneys are only fit for food when taken from very 
young animals. The liver is peculiarly subject to degenerative 
changes, and if of a dark color, or with hard knots in it, either 
darker or lighter than the surrounding tissue, it should be ent i rely 
rejected. The kidneys are the main organs for excreting waste 
matter from the system, and after performing that function 
for several months are no longer suitable food for human 
beings. They should be thrown into plenty of cold salted 
water as soon as possible after taking them "from the animal, 
and soaked until needed for use. Rub and press gently with 
the hand to extract the blood, then dry on a soft cloth. 

Liver and Bacon. 

Prepare the bacon as directed for breakfast bacon. Cut the 
liver in slices one-third inch thick, parboil for five minutes, dry 
well and roll in seasoned flour. Lay the slices in smoking hot 
bacon fat and when they are brown on each side they will be 
sufficiently cooked. 

Chicken Livers in Sandwich Paste. 

Wash and soak well in salt and water. Put on to cook in 
cold water and let simmer fifteen minutes after it begins to 
boil. Free from all the skin and strings and rub to a smooth 
paste, adding highly seasoned strong stock to soften the dry 
bits. Press through a puree-sieve and to a cup of the sifted 
liver add three tablespoons soft butter and work smooth with a 
wooden spoon. The juice from fresh mushrooms is a great 
improvement and if you have bits of truffle to put in it will 
seem much more like the imported pate-de-foie-gras. Add 
more salt and pepper if needed and set away to cool. If too 
stiff when cold reheat and add a little oil from the fat of 
chicken. 

Liver a la Bordelaise. 

Cut eight medium-sized slices, parboil, trim, pare nicelv. 
season with salt and pepper, baste with sweet oil and roll in 
fresh bread crumbs. Broil over a moderate fire till thoroughly 
well done, dish in a circle, alternating with fillet-shaped slices 
of Boston brown bread fried in butter; pour a Bordelaise 
sauce in the center. Page 43. 

Kidney. (Stewed ) 

Take two pair lamb's kidneys when perfectly fresh, split in 
two and trim with scissors the fat and sinews from the inside. 
Cut them in small pieces, put them in a stewpan, cover with 
cold water and bring nearly to the boiling point; do this three 
times, each time being sure that the water does not boil or the 
kidneys will be hard. Put one tablespoon butter in a frying- 
pan and stir until a nice brown; add one tablespoon flour, cook 
three minutes, add a half pint of stock or boiling water, stir 
constantly with a wooden spoon until it boils; add one table- 
spoon Worcestershire, one of mushroom catsup, salt and pep- 
per and the kidneys; let them heat through, take up, add four 
tablespoons sherry and serve. — Mrs. Borer. 



i 



20 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Fried Tripe. 

Cut in bits for serving. Roll them in seasoned flour then in 
egg, and last in very fine dry bread crumbs. Fry a good brown 
in deep fat, and serve with a leaf of fried parsley on top. 

Tripe in Batter. 

Cut in bits and roll in flour as before. Dip in batter (see 
page 41) and saute in hot butter. 



Tripe. 

In whatever way it is to be served, tripe is usually better to 
be simmered gently until perfectly tender in clear water. If it 
lias a strong smell, add a little vinegar to the water and change 
it several times. Dry carefully on a cloth before broiling or 
frying. 

Stewed Tripe. 

One pound of tripe that has not been pickled, wash carefully 
and cut into inch squares. Put it into a stewpan with a salt- 
spoon each of salt, sugar and made mustard, with milk enough 
to cover, about one pint. Boil up and skim carefully, then set 
back to simmer for three hours, watching closely lest it stick 
on the bottom of the pan, and skimming again if needed. Mix 
a desertspoon of gluten flour with a gill of cold milk, and stir 
it in, simmer half an hour longer and serve with more season- 
ing if liked. 

Tripe Fricasseed With Onions. 

Simmer as above, but one hour before serving cook six 
medium sized onions half an hour. Drain and slice them and put 
them into a dry frying pan with two ounces of butter. Sprinkle 
over them one teaspoon each of salt, sugar, dry mustard, a salt- 
spoon of white pepper and a speck of nutmeg. Let them cook 
till there are delicately browned pieces in the hottest parts, 
then pour them over the tripe which has been previously thick- 
ened with two dessertspoons of baked or gluten flour. This 
should be served at once and very hot. 



POULTRY. 

This meat is not as nutritious as beef and mutton, but its 
tenderness and flavor renders it most agreeable as a change in 
the usual bill of fare; neither has it as much fat, except in the 
case of geese and old fowls, but this can be supplied in the 
way of butter or cream. Game with dark meat should be 
cooked rare, as venison, canvas-back duck and almost all birds, 
while the white-fleshed animals, turkey, chicken, etc., should 
be well done. 

HOW TO KNOW GOOD FOWLS. 

Choose those that are heavy in proportion to their size; this 
is a general rule in buying oranges, lobsters or fowls; a bird ten 
inches from tip to tail has a larger proportion of bone than one 
of eight inches, and is consequently less profitable. Avoid also 
a prominent breast bone, although if the bird is desirable in 
other respects this may be reduced for a roast fowl by running 
the point of a sharp knife through the joints of the ribs and 
pressing the whole breast into position; for a broiler it should 
always be taken out. The best chickens have clean, smooth, 
yellow feet, moist and delicate skin, and plump breasts; the 
end of the breast bone yields readily to pressure and the hairs 
are neither long nor coarse. An old fowl has coarser skin and 
hairs, roughened scales on legs and feet and the hens usually 
have too much fat. The combs and spurs show a cock before 
it is dressed, afterward judge by the distance from the end of 
breastbone to the rump. The egg producing hen has an 
abdomen of much greater capacity than a cock; the meat is 
softer fibred and less highly flavored, it is good to roast, 
boil or fricassee, and most" of the dark meat can be 
used for salad; while a cock of more than a year old is 
better used for croquettes and highly seasoned entrees, 
though if in good condition they are nice boiled or for soup. 
The "foregoing is true of turkeys as well. Geese and ducks 
should not be more than a year old; the breasts will be plump 
and firm, the fat white and soft, the wings tender, the feet yel- 
low and the webbing tender. If the windpipe is too tough 
to crack when pinched the flesh is probably tough also. 
Young pigeons have tender pink legs and light red flesh on the 
breast; in old ones it is very dark. Squabs are young tame 
pigeons; they are as large as old birds, but soft and plump and 
covered with pin feathers. Grouse, partridge and quail should 
have full breasts, dark legs and yellowish bills. 



TO CLEAN POULTRY. 

All poultry should be dressed as soon as killed; the feathers 
come out much easier while the bird is warm and there is no 
excuse for scalding; pull them, one or two at a time, toward 
the head, with a quick motion; a sharp-pointed knife or a 
darning-needle is a help in getting out pin feathers. Draw 
out the ash pan, drop into it a roll of lighted paper and singe 
the bird thoroughly; hold it up against the light to see if all 
have been removed; stray hairs or tufts of down are not a 
pleasing garnish, nor creditable to the cook; do not smoke or 
scorch the skin. Now the skin should be carefully wiped with 
a cloth wet with warm water. Do not put the bird in water 
unless it must be done, though geese and ducks are so greasily 
dirty that nothing but soap-suds and a brush will clean them. 
Dry on a soft towel, take oft' the head and legs, cut open the 
skin on the back of the neck, disjoint the neck (it can be easily 
held in a towel) and cut it off close to the body; separate 
the crop carefully from the skin of the neck and cut off 
that and the windpipe, insert one finger into the opening at 
the breast and loosen the organs from the breastbone. It is 
best to take one's first lesson on a broiler, which, at this stage 
may be split down the back with a sharp vegetable knife, 
taking care that the point goes no deeper than is necessary. 
Now open the chicken like a book and learn the arrangement 
of the viscera; see the heart and lungs in the chest and find 
how they are fastened; note the position of the gizzard on the 
left side capped by the two lobes of the liver and connected 
with the coil of intestines or entrails below; take out the 
kidneys from their bony sockets near the base of the back- 
bone and the last bit of the lungs from the spaces between the 
ribs; these organs are often eaten and in a young healthy bird 
are not unwholesome; but they, as well as the liver, are partic- 
ularly liable to disease, and should never be used from an old 
fowl. All this can be done in a little time and the lesson 
learned can be applied to drawing a fowl for roasting — a 
process too often both, tedious and disgusting. 

If the fowl is to be dressed for fricassee, it should be jointed 
first, that is, legs and wings cut smoothly off; find the joint in 
the back, make a cut toit with the point of the knife on each 
side from the end of the breast-bone; bend the body backward 
and empty it of viscera in the same way as before; cut out the 
oil bag in the tail, wipe with a damp cloth and the fowl is 
ready to cook, with not a tissue broken but what is necessary to 
get rid of inedible portions. 

It is a little more difficult to prepare for roasting; remove 
crop as before; cut around the vent with a scissors, lengthen 
the slit enough to admit two or three fingers, slide them cau- 
tiously around the mass inside until the heart is reached and 
held, and the whole bulk detached from breast and backbone; 
it can then be drawn down and out, care must be taken to keep 
them all together; if dragged apart there is danger either that 
the entrails or the gall bladder may be broken; this last is an 
almost fatal accident, for if the fowl is washed and soaked 
enough to get rid of that bitter taste it will have lost much of 
its own flavor. 

Roast Turkey or Chicken. 

For a roast turkey or chicken cut through the skin of the 
leg an inch or two below the joint; break the bone by a light 
blow with the back of the cleaver and draw out the tendons, 
picking them up one by one with a stout fork or a wooden 
skewer, leave the bits of leg bone on till the fowl is roasted; it 
is much easier to fasten them in position and they can easily be 
taken off before serving. 

To Stuff a Fowl. 

The easiest way is to set it in a deep bowl; fill the breast till 
it is rather plump, but do not put in as much as it will hold; 
the stuffing swells in cooking; it might crack the skin and 
would surely be heavy. Fold the skin of the neck neatly but 
loosely back and fasten with a bird skewer, turn the bird and 
fill the body, but do not crowd; if the opening is more than 
three or four inches it should be closed by half a dozen deep 
stitches; use a large darner and soft cotton, do not draw the 
thread tight nor try to tie it; leave a long end for convenience 
in pulling out. 

To Truss a Fowl. 

Push the legs up until the knees are well above the point of 
the breast-bone, cross them at the tail and tie firmly. Run a 
skewer through the body at the wings and thighs, press them 
close to the body and tie across the back. 

To Prepare Giblets. 

It is well to repeat the caution: Do not use any from old 
fowls nor from a young one unless thoroughly sound; a healthy 
liver has a light color and uniform texture; cut away any por- 






WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



21 






IMPORTANT. 



ui»»i» > i)limillHHW IIMHII I I I I M I WU II 





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N using tne Recipes given in this 
book requiring flour, for best re- 
stilts, great care snould be taken 
in tne selection of a particular 
brand of flour. 

For tnis reason ask your gro- 
cer for, and insist upon having 
tnat BEST OF ALL FLOURS, . . . 

THE CELEB-RATED 



SUPERLATIVE 






MANUFACTURED ONLY IN 
THE FAMOUS .... 




maaebburn /BMils 



OF 



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MINNEAPOLIS. 



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Washburn, Crosby Co., Propr's. 



22 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



tion that has been discolored by the gall bladder; remove that 
without allowing a drop of its contents to fall on the meat, trim 
off superfluous tissue from liver and heart, cut through the 
thick muscle of the gizzard and peel it off without breaking 
into the little gristmill inside; wash and let them lie in salted 
water from live minutes to five hours. The strong smell of an 
old fowl does not make the meat unwholesome, it may be 
removed by this soaking in salt or soda water, but if the fowl 
has been tainted by lying undressed or, worse yet, by careless 
dressing, it is recommended to throw away these parts. Sim- 
mer till tender in water or stock. Cook the neck with the 
giblets, but save the wing tips and legs for the long slow cook- 
ing of the stock pot. Use only the smooth legs of a fowl less 
than a year old. Scald lightly and the skin and claw cases 
will peel off like a glove; three pairs of chicken feet will make 
a pint of jelly as fine and just as nutritious as the noted calves 
feet jelly. 
For further use see entrees, page 37. 

Gravy for Roast Poultry. 

(See Brown Sauce page 42.) Only in this case use the stock in 
which giblets were cooked; mash the liver, chop heart, gizzard 
and neck meat fine and mix with only half the sauce sending 
in one-half plain for those who prefer it. 

Broiled Chicken. 

Chickens allowed the range of a large yard will run all the 
fat off them. It is better to pen them into a small space for at 
least a week before killing. It is hardly worth while to try to 
broil them, when over three months old, though by steaming 
them first they can be broiled up to five months old. Split 
down the back, and spread open as fiat as possible, crush down 
the breastbone and pin the wings and thighs closely to the 
body, fastening the giblets under the wings. Wipe as dry as 
possible, sprinkle with salt and pepper and rub well with soft 
butter before laying on the broiler. Cook the inside next the 
coals first for as long as possible without scorching, then turn 
and cook on the skin side till a handsome brown. After each 
side is brown, turn often till well done, it will take from twenty 
to thirty minutes. Covering the broiler with a pan keeps in 
both heat and steam and finishes the work in less time. Serve 
on a hot platter and butter very well. Garnish with water- 
cress, and serve thin, well-browned baking powder biscuit with 
them. 

Roast Chicken. 

For general directions see roast turkey; for time see table 
page 72. If the breast stands high and there is danger of 
scorching it cover with a buttered paper. For stuffings see 
page 23. 

Truffled Capon. 

For a capon weighing ten pounds use one can truffles (medium 
size), one can mushrooms, one tablespoon chopped parsley, one- 
half teaspoon powdered thyme, one scant tablespoon chopped 
onion, one-quarter cup butter. Singe, draw, wash and wipe the 
chicken as usual. Chop truffles and mushrooms very fine and 
add the herbs to them. Put two tablespoons butter in the fry- 
ing pan with the chopped onion and stir over the fire till a light 
straw color, then add the mushrooms and truffles, one-half salt- 
spoon pepper, one-half teaspoon salt. Cook gently for five 
minutes, stirring constantly. Lift from fire and cool. When 
cool slip the fingers under the skin of the chicken, beginning at 
the neck and loosening it from the whole breast, being careful 
not to break it. Spread a thin layer of the prepared stuffing 
over the flesh and draw the skin back smooth. To the remainder 
of the mixture add an equal bulk of stale bread crumbs and 
pounded veal, moisten with the mushroom liquor and melted 
butter and put it into the crop and body of the bird. Truss and 
rub with salt and pepper as usual. Cover with slices of leaf 
lard and roast about two and a half hours. Serve with 
garnishing, see page 45. 

Boiled Chicken. 

Dress and clean according to general directions. Place in a 
kettle of boiling water deep enough to cover, and with a fowl 
weighing four pour <fe boil a pound of fat bacon. Skim care- 
fully when it begi. +) cook and after the scums ceases to rise 
set "it back to siir f gently for three hours or more, until 
ready to fall apart, idd a handful of rice and a cup of milk to 
make it look white ind keep it under water with an inverted 
deep plate. Add m ire salt, if needed, about half an hour before 
taking it up. Lay on a hot dish while the liquor is reduced to 
-ather more than a pint, skim off all the fat, add chopped 

-sley, celery and thyme and hard boiled eggs, chopped fine, 
-1 , and send to table in a sauce bowl. 



Steamed Chicken. 

Wipe very dry after cleaning. Pub salt, pepper and plenty 
of butter in the cavity of the body; fill it with large oysters 
well seasoned with salt, pepper and celery salt. Tie the legs 
and wings close to the body and lay in as small a dish as will 
hold it, and set in a steamer to cook four hours. Meantime 
cook a pint of chopped celery till it will rub through a puree 
sieve. Make a pint of white sauce with the liquor of the 
oysters, add the celery to it and pour it over the fowl on the 
platter. Garnish with curly parsley and serve with baked 
sweet potatoes and boiled rice. This is a delightful way to L 
cook a turkey. 

Chicken Pot-Pie. 

Cut the chicken into nice pieces for serving, drop them into 
just enough boiling water to cover and skim carefully at first. 
Set back to simmer closely covered until tender, taking care 
that it does not boil dry. While it is cooking cut off one 
pound of light bread dough, work into it a large tablespoon of 
butter, shape it into small dumplings and set them to rise; 
wash and pare potatoes, cutting to about half the size of an 
egg. Parboil for ten minutes in salted water and add them to 
the chicken when nearly done. It is well to taste and add 
more seasoning at the same time if it is needed. When the 
potatoes begin to boil, lay on the dumplings, first adding a cup 
of cold water or milk, to check the boiling and give the 
dumplings a chance to rise. Cover very close and do not open 
the lid till they are done, which will be in from twenty to 
thirty minutes. Test them by taking out one and breaking 
open to see if it is cooked through. If one likes the dumplings 
dry and very light they may be cooked in a steamer quite 
separate from the meat and potatoes. Make gravy as for 
chicken-pie, adding more water or milk as may be needed. A 
baking powder dumpling can be used instead of the raised 
dough, and the sponge-balls given to go with soup on page 10 
are excellent with pot-pie. Some recipes call for onion, carrot 
and turnip, but such strong flavors are too much for the 
chicken and are better suited to beef or mutton stews. A 
tablespoon of rice or a half cup of tomatoes are the only veg- 
etables recommended. 

To Make a Poloe. 

Take a pint of Rice, boil it in as much Water as will cover it; 
When your Rice is half boiled, put in your Fowl, with a small 
Onion, a blade or two of Mace, some whole Pepper, and some 
Salt; when 'tis enough, put the Fowl in the Dish and pour the 
Rice over it. — From the Compleat Housewife, published in 
London in 1734. • 

Chicken Pie. 

Divide the chicken into pieces at the joints, boil until part 
done, or about twenty minutes, then, take it out, fry two or 
three slices of fat salt pork and put in the bottom, then place 
the chicken on with one cup of water, two ounces of butter, 
one teaspoon of salt, pepper to taste and cover the top with a 
light crust, the same as for biscuit. Bake in an oven that is 
hotter at the top than at the bottom, and when well risen and 
brown cover with a paper or the crust will burn before the pie 
is baked through. Remove fat from the water in which the 
chicken was boiled, thicken with a little flour, season to taste, 
add one cup good cream and when the pie is done pour this 
gravy through the holes of the crust. 

Chicken Turnovers. 

Chicken turnovers are a pleasing variety of chicken pies. 
Roll out trimmings of puff paste or any good pastry, and cut 
in rather large rounds. Have ready some cooked chicken, 
chopped fine and highly seasoned; a little finely minced ham is 
an improvement. Moisten with its own gravy if you have it, 
if not, cream will answer. Lay a tablespoon of the mixture 
on one-half the paste, fold the other half over it, press the 
wetted edges closely together and bake in a quick oven or fry 
in hot fat, according to convenience. When fried these are 
called Rissoles. 

Chicken and Oyster Pie. 

Cold boiled chicken and fifty good-sized oysters with a small 
slice of ham are required for this. Make one quart of good 
white sauce, using the strained oyster juice as part of the 
liquid. Line a deep pie dish with pastry, building up the edges 
with two layers. Cut the chicken in even pieces and lay in the 
dish alternately with the oysters and ham cut in dice. Pour 
the sauce over all and make a cover half an inch thick of the 
pastry, making a hole in the middle for steam to escape and 
pinching the edges well together. Bake a leaf or any fancy 
shape, to cover the hole with when done. Bake the pie half 
an hour and serve hot. "Very good. — From "The Epicure." 



WaSHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



23 



Chicken Fricassee. 

White. Prepare the chicken by general directions (page 20), 
brown in butter; it should be done over a quick fire but not 
allowed to take much color; cover with boiling water and sim 
: a year old chicken should not need more than 
forty minutes; reduce the slock to one pint and use it, to make 
a sauce with one tablespoon of butter and two of Mom-. Sea- 

Bon with one-half teasp 1 celery salt, one teaspoon lemon 

juice, salt and pepper as needed. Add one cup hot cream and 
pour the sauce slowly over one well-beaten egg; stir well and 
put on a hot platter; arrange the pieces of chicken in some- 
thing like the order in which they grow, garnish with toast 
points and two sprays of parsley laid' in the center of the dish. 

Egyptian Chicken. 

Select a well-fattened hen a year old or even more. Clean and 
truss as usual, tying the legs and wings very close to the body. 
Rub all over inside and out with salt, pepper and soft butter. 
Tick over and wash one and one-fourth cups rice, season it 
with one teaspoon salt, one-half saltspoon pepper, one tea- 
spoon curry powder. Put three tablespoons rice inside the 
fowl and the remainder around it in a dish just large enough 
to hold all nicely. Set it all into a steamer with a close-fitting 
cover and cook for at least four hours. The giblets may be 
scalded and cooked separately for an hour and then laid inside 
the fowl with the rice. If the broth in which they are cooked 
is not too strong, pour it over the rice in the dish. Serve with 
summer squash and cucumbers. — Mrs, F, A, Crosby, Milwau- 
kee, Wis. 

Fried Chicken. 

Chickens will do for frying up to six months old if they are 
plump and in good condition. Clean, singe and wipe with a 
wet cloth. Cut them in quarters, and season with salt and 
pepper, roll them in Hour and fry in hot fat from salt pork until 
brown on both sides. Cover closely and set back to cook 
slowly till done, about twenty minutes more; dissolve the glaze 
with two or three tablespoons water and pour over the chicken. 
Serve with corn pone if you can get sweet, soft corn meal and 
have an open fire; if not, with some other form of corn-bread. 

Chicken a la Marengo. 

Cut a large chicken in small joints, dry it carefully and fry 
to a good brown in olive oil. Place in a clean sautoir with six 
mushrooms peeled and sliced, one gill of stewed tomato, one 
small onion or six chives, and a few truffles if you have them, 
one gill of brown sauce. Cover closely and simmer half an 
hour, adding more water if it boils away too much. Taste to 
see if more seasoning is needed. Serve on a chafing dish, 
garnishing with croutons of puff paste and poached eggs. — 
Manual of South Kensington Cooking School. 

Chicken and Corn Pudding. 

Clean and cut one chicken in small pieces, simmer in a closely 
covered kettle till it begins to grow tender. Then take out and 
lay in a baking dish, seasoning well with salt and pepper. Have 
ready one quart green corn cut fine, three eggs well beaten and 
one pint sweet milk, salt and pepper to taste. About one tea- 
spoon of salt, one-half saltspoon pepper and a dust of cayenne. 
Pour this mixture over the chicken, dredge thickly with Hour 
(or very fine dry breadcrumbs), lay on bits of butter and bake 
in a moderately hot oven until set and a delicate brown. Make 
a good gravy with the water in! which the chicken was cooked, 
and serve with the pudding. 

Chicken Pudding, No. 2. 

Make a batter with a pound of flour, one teaspoon salt, one 
quart milk and six eggs beaten light. Pour over chicken as 
above. This should be baked in a very gentle heat, and served 
as soon as done, with a gravy as before. 

Deviled Fowl. 

Cut the thighs and wings from two underdone fowls, either 
roast or boiled. Score them closely about one-quarter inch 
deep, and rub in a paste made with two teaspoons mixed 
mustard, one teaspoon good salad oil, one teaspoon salt, one- 
half saltspoon cayenne, lay them aside to season while the rest 
of the meat is chopped fine and stirred into a pint of Bechamel 
or any good sauce. 

Put a good tablespoon of butter in the sautoir and when it 
browns add one teaspoon each vinegar, Worcestershire sauce 
and mustard. Broil the legs and wings till a handsome brown, 
and roll each one in the butter mixture as it is taken from the 
gridiron. Put the mince in the center of a hot platter, arrange 
the grilled bones around it and serve piping hot. 



Poultry Stuffing. 

No, 1. For an eight-pound turkey take one quart stale bread 
crumbs, they should be of uniform size butv need nor. be sifted; 
moisten with three-quarters of a cup butter, melt m well 

With pepper and salt, use fine herbs if desired, but thl 
chicken and turkey is too delicate, to be covered with l 
soiling. 

If the fowl is very large and a good deal of stuffing is liked, 
the body may be filled with thin Slices of bread well butt 
sprinkled with seasoning and dipped lightly in stock. Do not 
crowd either crop or body or the stuffing will be heavy. 

No. 2. Soak four ounces dried bread in cold water until soft, 
press out all the water, add four ounces fine sausage meat, one 
tablespoon each of parsley and of onion chopped and par- 
boiled, two ounces of butter, one teaspoon salt, one-half tea- 
spoon pepper, a dash of nutmeg and two well-beaten eggs. If 
the sausage meat is quite fat the butter may be omitted, or 
chopped salt pork may be substituted with rather more season- 
ing. If one objects to pork in any form, use a full cup of butter 
and an extra cup of coarse crumbs. 

A good and rich variation is as follows: Chop the liver with 
one small onion and brown lightly in a very little butter; mix 
them with one pound of sausage meat and three dozen chest- 
nuts boiled and blanched. 

No. 3 stuffing with chestnuts. Remove the sinews from one- 
half pound raw lean veal and the strings from the same weight 
of leaf lard; chop them separately till very fine, then pound vig- 
orously till well blended; moisten with one-half pint broth, add 
one teaspoon salt, one saltspoon pepper, four dozen chestnuts, 
blanched and boiled; fill the turkey, breast and body. One cup 
of the cooked chestnut crumbs may be reserved, mashed, 
sifted and used to thicken the gravy; this should be lightly 
browned, not to cover the chestnut flavor. 

No. 4. For roast chicken of three or four pounds take one 
cup coarse cracker crumbs, moisten with butter, the amount 
varies with the kind of cracker, from one-fourth to one-third 
cup, season well with salt, pepper and thyme. 

Stuffing for Ducks. 

One-half pound onions, minced, blanched and drained, add 
three tablespoons grated bread crumbs, one teaspoon powdered 
sage, the liver of the duck parboiled and minced, pepper, salt 
and cayenne to taste. This quantity is sufficient for one 
medium size duck. 

No. 2 for duckling. Two ounces bread crumbs, two ounces 
butter, a little chopped parsley, two leaves sage, a dust of grated 
lemon peel, three shallots chopped, with salt and pepper to taste. 

No. 3 celery stuffing. One cup coarsely chopped celery, one- 
half cup onion, one heaping cap dried bread. Remove ail crust 
from the bread and fry them in enough butter to crisp them 
well, mix all together and add salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. 

Roast Turkey. 

Get one which is plump and young. Clean as usual (see 
page 20); do not omit drawing the tendons in the leg and 
removing the lungs and kidneys; clean and truss as usual (see 
page 20). Place on a rack in the dripping pan; brush well with 
soft butter and dredge with flour. Set in a hot oven and when 
well browned reduce the heat; lay it on the side, turn and 
brown the other and finally lay it on the back to brown the 
breast, this ensures an even color. Baste with butter till nicely 
browned, then add a pint of water and renew it as needed. 
Dredge with flour at every alternate basting. If the cook can- 
not be trusted to baste often a hen turkey should be chosen, 
but the cock has higher flavor and is better for boning, boiling 
and braising. Allow two hours for an eight pound turkey; 
this is a good size for a family of six. It gives good cuts for 
the first day, allows remnants for some made dish and still 
enough trimmings for a soup. Test by running a long pin 
through the second joint between the leg and body. For gravy 
(see page 22). If the giblets are not liked in gravy use them for 
forcemeat balls (see page 38). or cook, chop and mix them with 
the stuffing— either No. 1 or No. 2. (See time table, page 72.) 

Many like the flavor of both turkey and chicken better if 
roasted without stuffing; in this case season the inside of the 
bird with salt and pepper, baste freely and allow less time for 
roasting, from one-half to one hour, according to the size. It 
can be tested by running a long pin through the thigh 
between the leg and the body. An older fowl takes longer and 
is much better braised. 

Braised Poultry. 

Make ready as for roasting; brown lightly in a frying p' 
quick oven, put in braising pan (see page 11), with onior 
sweet herbs or vegetables, or rice, hominy or macaroni, 
ferred. (Macaroni must be first parboiledfor ten minut 



24 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Boned Turkey. 

Choose a young hen that has been dry picked, with skin 
unbroken; if killed the day before it should have been washed 
clean, wrapped in a damp cloth and hung in a cool place. The 
work can be done more easily if the bird is not drawn and there 
can be no objection if it has had no food for twenty-four 
hours before it is killed. Separate legs and wings at the 
first joint and cut off neck inside the skin, close to the 
body. Make a clean cut to the bone down the back from 
neck to the rump; then, holding the edge of the knife to 
the bone, scrape away all the meat on both sides, mak- 
ing a cut across the "pope's" nose, taking it off whole. 
Great care must be used not to break through the skin on the 
breast bone. The thigh and wing bones may be disjointed and 
taken off separately, though a professional cook takes pride in 
removing the carcass entire; turn the flesh back from the bone 
while working, like pulling off a glove wrong side out; take the 
wing and leg on one side before touching the other; when the 
ridge of the breastbone is reached it is better to cut off a thin 
layer of cartilage with the skin than to run any risk of breaking 
through. When the boning is finished lay the bird open on the 
damp cloth and bring each part to proper position, take off the 
minion fillets and some small slices from the breast where the 
meat is thick and lay them where it is thinner so that the meat 
will be nearly of uniform thickness. Put one or two small 
fillets from the thighs in the breast and replace them with 
breast meat; do the same with the wings. Make a 
layer of force meat not more than one inch thick; place on 
this a layer of tongue, pork and veal or pork tenderloin; dot it 
with truffles cut in matches, cover with another layer of force 
meat, put a layer of very thin slices of fat pork on top, bring 
up the sides carefully, so as not to disarrange the stuffing, and 
sew the back from end to end, roll firmly in cloth and fasten 
both ends tightly; put in a braising-pan, as near the size of the 
bird as may be, two sliced onions and carrots, the veal and 
pork trimmings, then the turkey, parsley, a dozen pepper-corns 
three stalks of celery, a blade of mace and a clove; pack the 
crushed bones of the turkey around and cover with thin white 
stock. Bring to a boil quickly, then simmer three to four 
hours; test with a long steel pin, cool in the liquor; take off 
the cloth and roll it again closely, tieing securely 
and put to press under a heavy weight. Reduce the stock 
to three pints, strain, cool, remove the fat and reheat; add two- 
thirds package gelatine which has been soaked in cold water 
until soft. Taste for seasoning and strain one-half pint into a 
mold and the remainder into two pans, color one with one tea- 
spoon and the other with two of caramel. Use the jelly when 
stiff to garnish the turkey, with peas, canned mushrooms and 
fancy cut vegetables. Garnish the turkey with celery tips and 
groups of force meat balls. If the giblets are not liked in the 
gravy those may be used for the balls, make very fine, mix 
with an equal bulk of bread crumbs, allow one teaspoon of 
butter to each cup of the mixture, season highly, moisten 
with egg yolk, make in balls the size of a hickory nut and 
brown in hot butter. 

Jelly For Boned Turkey. 

Strain the broth in which it was cooked and skim off every 
speck of grease. Let boil for five minutes, then pour it over 
one ounce of well soaked gelatine. Crack into another bowl 
the whites and shells of two eggs, juice of one-half a lemon, one 
gill of Madeira wine and whisk them all well together. Add 
the soup very slowly stirring fast with a wire whip. Place 
over a moderate fire and let come gently to the boil. Simmer a 
few minutes until there is a thick scum like leather. Hold 
this back with a skimming spoon while the clear soup is poured 
into a flannel bag to filter. Set to cool over night and it will be 
fit for use. 

Roast Goose. 

Clean and wash thoroughly, (see page 20), rinse well in clear 
water, wipe dry inside and out. Chop an onion fine, blanch 
and drain, fry with a little butter, mix it with well seasoned 
mashed potatoes, adding sage if liked, truss and roast two 
hours for a medium size, covering the breast with a buttered 
paper for the first hour. Soak the giblets in salted water, scald 
cook gently until tender in a little water, chop and add to the 
gravy. For this the fat should all be poured from the dripping 
pan and fresh fat added, butter, pork fat or dripping, according 
to taste; brown two level tablespoons flour in it, blend with one 
pint strong stock. Pour this upon a hot platter, lay on the 
goose and garnish with apples cooked as follows: Take small 
round, sour apples, pare smoothly and brown in butter and 
sugar, one tablespoon of each will do for six apples. Stew in 
broth enough to barely cover and take out as soon as tender 
to » the broth to a glaze and roll the apples in it. ' I 

"Siey, eel 
\ anc. 



Truffled Turkey. 

The reputation of this dish far exceeds its real merits, but as 
it is one of the standards the best method of preparation is 
herewith given: 

Choose a young, plump but not too fat turkey. Dry-pick, 
singe and draw as quickly as possible after killing. If care- 
fully done there will be no need of washing, and in any case it 
should only be sponged with a damp cloth. Dust inside and 
out lightly with pepper and hang up to cool. 

Meantime brush and clean one and one-half pounds fresh 
truffles, cut the best of them into large dice or balls and all 
the broken bits and trimmings are to be pounded into a smooth 
paste, with an equal bulk of fat bacon. When the forcemeat 
is quite smooth, mix the dice with it and season the whole with 
salt and pepper. There must be enough to fill the body of the 
bird. Hang it for four, five or six days enclosed in a stout sack 
of thick brown paper until the sense of smell testifies that the 
j perfume of the truffles has penetrated the flesh. On the day 
that it is to be cooked fill the crop with a good veal forcemeat, 
truss it firmly, lay slices of fat bacon over the breast and 
buttered paper over that. Roast about two and one-half hours, 
basting often. Serve with its own gravy only, to which may 
' be added a few finely-minced truffles if liked. 

Forcemeat For Boned Turkey. 

Chop fine separately two pounds of white lean veal and the 
same amount of fresh fat pork, pound vigorously in a mortar, 
add seasoning to taste and four egg yolks one at a time, beat- 
ing and pounding continually. Take a half pound each of fat 
pork, red beef tongue or ham and lean of veal or pork tender- 
loin; cut each into slips as long as may be and one-quarter inch 
square. Use as directed. 

Roast Ducks. 

To really enjoy domestic duck they should be kept in a small 
pen for a day or two and fed on barley meal or cracked wheat, 
with plenty of clean fresh water to cleanse them before they 
are dressed. As a general rule two small young ducks make a 
better dish than a large drake, the flesh of which is hard and 
dry and best adapted for a stew, salmi or braise. Clean and 
truss according to general directions, except that the feet are 
generally scalded, skinned and twisted across the back, while 
the pinions and long neck are entirely removed. Stuff and 
skewer the wings close to the side to make the breast as plump 
as possible. Roast from thirty to forty-five minutes, basting 
often and dredging with flour if it is wished to have a frothy 
appearance. Serve with a good brown gravy and with apple 
sauce in a side dish. 

Stewed Ducks. (Irish.) 

Singe, draw and cut into eight pieces each, two spring ducks. 
Season with pepper and salt and fry to a light brown on both 
sides in butter. Add a sliced onion and four ounces raw, lean 
ham cut in dice. As soon as these have browned a little dredge 
with one and one-half ounces of flour and fry again till the 
flour is brown, then add one and one-half pints beef broth, a 
gill of port wine, a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs to taste, 
cover closely and cook three-quarters of an hour. Remove the 
herbs, skim off all the fat and serve in a potato border. 

Salmi of Duck. (English.) 

Stew the giblets of one or more ducks in veal gravy till they 
are tender, seasoning them highly with cayenne, shallots, pepper 
and salt. Cut the roast duck into large dice and lay in the 
stewpan with the gravy, simmer till hot through, then squeeze 
a bitter orange into the gravy, strain it over the pieces of duck 
neatly arranged on bread croutons and send to table smoking 
hot. 

Braised Duck. 

See Braised fowl page 23, using green peas instead of other 
vegetables. Season with salt and pepper and serve with the 
peas under the duck and the gravy poured over. 

Stuffed or Boned Duck. 

Bone according to general directions, being careful not to 
break the skin. Fill with a forcemeat made from one-half 
pound veal, one-fourth pound suet, parsley, chives and plenty of 
mushrooms. Add salt and pepper to taste and make into a paste 
with two well-beaten eggs and sufficient water. Fill the inside 
of the duck, cook in a braising-pan and serve with stewed 
chestnuts prepared with the gravy from the bones. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



25 



To Stew Pigeons with Asparagus. 
Draw your Pigeons, ami wrap up a little shred Parsley, with & 
:ry few Blades of Thyme, some Salt and Pepper in a piece of 
utter, put some in the Belly and some in the Neck, and tie up 
ie Vent and the Neck and halt' roast them; then have Some 
rong Broth and Gravy, put them together in a stew-pan; stew 
ie Pigeons till they are full enough; then have Tops of 
.sparagus boiled tender and put them in and let them have a 
Palm or two in theGravy and dish it up.— From the "Compleat 
Tousetoif< "published in London in 1734. 

Guinea Fowls. 

These excellent birds are a sort of connecting link between 
wild birds and the ordinary barn-yard fowl. Unless young 
they are apt to be tough, but even an old guinea can be made 
eatable by the help of a braising pan and they are always high- 
llavored and savory. The dark color of the meat makes them 
an acceptable substitute for game during the spring and sum- 
mer when true game birds ought to be sacred from the greed of 
man. Clean, stuff and roast like chicken (p 20-22), and serve 
with barberry or wild plum jelly. 

Larded Guinea Fowls. 

Choose very plump birds and after cleaning and trussing, 
dip the breast in boiling water for about a minute to stretch the 
skin. With a No. 10 larding needle, till the breast with rows of 
fine short lardoous of salt pork or bacon. Roast and serve as 
usual. 

Pea Fowl. 

Pea fowl are sometimes served, but the flesh is coarse and ill- 
eolored and there is little to recommend it. 

Broiled Squab. 

The birds should be full-grown but not yet out of the nest, 
or not more than a day or two. Singe, draw, split down the 
back. Crack the large bones, flatten with a heavy cleaver. 
Season with salt and pepper and broil slowly. Serve on dry 
toast with hot maitre d' hotel butter poured over. Garnish 
with water cress. 

Salmi of Duck. (American.) 

Three small wild ducks (teal, widgeon or wood-duck) roasted .j 
and cut in even pieces, free from bones, skin and gristle. Break 
all the bones and put them with other trimmings in a stewpan j 
with two glasses sherry, one quart Spanish sauce, one pint beef 
stock, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, two cloves, six peppercorns, j 
parsley and one onion sliced. Cover closely and boil gently for ! 
one hour; strain and reduce to a smooth consistency. Dish the 
duck on a large thick slice of fried bread, add the juice of a 
lemon and two ounces butter to the gravy and pour it over. 

Roast Pigeons. 

Prepare exactly according to the directions for roast chicken, 
but unless they are surely young and fat they are much better 
to be steamed for thirty to forty minutes before putting them 
into the oven. Use a generous measure of butter as the meat 
is rather dry. 



GAME. 

Under this head is included all wild animals and wild fowl 
used for food. In cooking either apply the same general rules 
already given for meats and poultry, remembering that all 
white meated game should be cooked well done; dark meated 
game rare, and both must be sent to the table very hot, with 
hot plates. Wild meat contains a much greater percentage of 
phosphates, and much more lean than fat, while the lean is of 
much greater density than the flesh of domesticated animals. 
It follows that they are a strong food and. if v ->.'i digested, ' 
very nutritious. 

When game is to be kept many days it should be drawn, the I 
inside rubbed with salt and pepper, and it does no harm to put 
some lumps of charcoal in the cavity. If there is any objection 
to washing, it must be very carefully drawn and then wiped 
with a damp cloth until perfectly clean Neither salt nor 
pepper should touch the outside of the meat until after it is 
cooked. 

Simplicity is the highest perfection of cooking, especially of 
.game, and all seasoning, sauces and accompaniments should 
be subordinate to the flavor of the meat. 



Roast Venison, 

Roast venison is best to be thoroughly larded, using half a 
pound of pork to a leg or saddle weighii n pounds. 

Cut tho flanks from a saddle, and trim the haunch to good 
shape. Roast according to general directions, basting at the 
end of the first live minutes and every fifteen minutes alter 
It is very nice to use claret instead of the dripping in the pan. 
An hour and a quarter Will cook it very rare; for most people 
an hour and three-quarters will be none too much. Make a 
good gravy from the drippings in the pan, adding stock 
from the bits trimmed away before roasting. Currant jelly is 
usually served with it, but those who have once tried barberry 
or wild plum jelly will never be contented with anything else. 

Venison Steaks. 

Venison steaks are prepared and served like beef steak 
ting them only about three-quarters of an inch thick, however, 
instead of an inch and one-half. 

Slices of cold rare roast venison are extremely nice when 
reheated in a brown or curry sauce. 

Deviled Venison. 

Cut thick slices from rare-roasted venison, make slanting 
incisions and till them with mixed mustard and salad oil. 
Brush the slices with melted butter and dredge them with 
flour. Broil over clear coals till a good brown and serve with 
butter. 

Venison Cutlets. 

Treat like cutlets of mutton and serve with only salt, pepper 
and butter, or they may be served with an olive sauce. 

Venison Hash. 

This is particularly nice for lunch. Chop the meat from a 
cold roast quite coarsely. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne 
and set aside till the gravy is hot. If there is not enough gravy 
left make a brown sauce for it, using stock from the bones and 
trimmings of the roast. Add the meat only one minute before 
serving. Arrange on hot buttered toast, garnish with quarters 
of lemon and serve with green grape marmalade. (Verjua). 

Fillets of Venison. 

Have as many small steaks as there are to be covers. Trim and 
flatten into good shape. Lard one side of each steak with tiny 
strips of pork and lay them in an earthen dish with salt, pepper, 
an onion, a minced carrot, two bay leaves, two sprigs thyme, one- 
half a gill of salad oil, a gill of vinegar. Let them steep in 
this mixture for six hours, turning often. Twenty minutes 
before serving drain and wipe them. Fry them to a handsome 
brown in a little very hot salt pork fat. It must be done 
quickly or they will become hard and tough. Arrange in a 
circle on a hot dish, the larded side uppermost alternately with 
heart-shaped croutons of puff paste. Serve with a brown gravy 
made from the marinate. 

Venison Collops. 

Have a venison steak cut one inch thick; divide it into por- 
tions about two inches square. Season with salt. Lay it in a 
chafing-dish in which two tablespoons of butter are boiling. 
Brown each side as quickly as possible; then add a dust of 
cayenne, two tablespoons Port wine, one tablespoon currant 
jelly. Epicures would say "Serve at once." Most people pre- 
fer to let it simmer till the inside shows only pink w r hen cut. 

Venison Pasty. 

Use for this the neck, breast, flank and other portions that 
are not suitable for roasting. Wash with vinegar, rub with 
sugar and hang in a cool airy place as long as possible. 
Examine every day and wipe night and morning with a dry 
cloth. When it is to be used sponge with lukewarm water and 
dry with a cloth. Bone it and cut the meat free from skin 
into pieces two inches square. Parboil till the meat begins to 
be tender, then season well and lay in a baking dish of which 
the> sides have been lined with good pastry. Arrange the 
pieces of fat and lean together, adding more seasoning if 
needed and dot well with bits of butter and enough stock to 
cover the bottom of the dish well. Cover with a thick crust and 
bake till the crust is thoroughly clone. 

While it is being baked put all the bones and trimmings in 
a covered stewpan with a strip of mace, pepper, salt ami cold 
water to cover the pieces. Simmer till all the goodness is out 
of the bones and the water reduced one-half. Strain, cool and 
remove the fat. When the pie is done heat up the gravy with 
lemon juice and enough port wine to flavor well. Put a fun- 
nel through the hole in the crust and pour the gravy in. Good 
either hot or cold. 



26 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Antelope. 

Antelope meat is prepared like venison and is hardly to be 
distinguished from it except by its stronger llavor. 

Bear. 

The haunch and saddle of young bear is very good roasted, 
tasting almost like pork, but'old bear meat is extremely hard 
and tough and is only palatable in a highly seasoned ragout. 

Rabbits or Hares. 

Rabbits and hares are only fit to use when young, and their 
age may be known by the ears and paws, which should be soft, 
the edges of the ears smooth and the paws not worn. They 
are best in the fall and early winter when fat from an abund- 
ance of their favorite food. They should be drawn as soon as 
possible after killing, but should not be skinned until ready to 
use. AVash and soak them for a little while in salted water. 

Roast Hare. 

Parboil the heart and liver, chop them fine with an equal 
bulk of fat salt pork; make a moist stuffing as for chicken, 
using the water in which giblets were boiled and working in the 
minced meat. Stuff the body with this and sew it up. The 
English fashion is to leave the head on, but American taste 
generally prefers it removed. Truss the forelegs back and the 
hind legs forward. Fasten thin slices of fat bacon over the 
shoulders and back and put it to roast in a very hot oven at 
first. Baste faithfully with butter and water until the fat flows 
freely from the the bacon. When half done dredge with flour 
and baste with butter once more. When done enough dress 
on a hot dish with a little gravy poured over and garnish with 
slices of lemon. Serve fried bacon with it on a separate dish. 

If the rabbit is very plump and young, it is nice to roast it 
without stuffing, serving force meat balls on the platter with it. 
It is also good with a chestnut stuffing made as for turkey. 

Broiled Rabbit. 

Skin and lay in salt and water for a time to sweeten. Pre- 
pare for the broil like chicken and cook over charcoal embers 
till done. Season with salt and pepper just before it is fin- 
ished and pour over melted butter mixed with two tablespoons 
vinegar and one of made mustard before sending to the table. 
Serve with a ravigote sauce. 

Rabbit Stew or Fricassee. 

See directions for fricasseed chicken, adding rather more sea- 
soning and a glass of any good red wine if liked. 

Squirrels. 

The large grey and fox squirrels are the best for eating, and 
may be cooked in any way suitable for rabbits, but they are in 
greatest request for Brunswick gtew- 



2 large squirrels, 

1 pint lima or butter-beans, 
6 ears corn, 

i teaspoon pepper, 
i saltspoon cayenne, 

2 teaspoons white pepper, 



1 quart tomatoes, 

6 potatoes, 

i pound fat salt pork, 

-i pound butter, 

1 tablespoon salt, 

1 onion, ' 

1 gallon AVater. 

Boil together salt and water, add the onion, herbs, corn cut 
from the cob, diced pork, pepper and let come to a boil, cut the 
squirrels in joints and wash them clean, add to the stew as 
soon as it boils. Cut the potatoes in slices and parboil them, 
put them into the stew with the tomatoes and sugar about an 
hour before it is done. Ten minutes before taking from 
the fire add the butter cut in bits and rolled in flour, taste to 
adjust the seasoning and serve in soup plates. 

Squirrel Pot-Pie. 

Four squirrels, skinned and cleaned and cut in neat pieces. 
Flour them and fry brown in a little good dripping. Add one 
quart of boiling water, one large onion minced, quarter of a 
lemon sliced very thin, a teaspoon of salt, half a one of pepper, 
a small glass of sherry. Fry the minced onion brown in a 
spoon of butter and add to the water, etc. Cover all closely 
and stew for one hour. Make a delicate biscuit crust, and cut 
in rounds, laying them on top of the squirrel. Let them boil, 
covered closely, for fifteen minutes. Pile the squirrel in the 
centre of a platter, arrange the dumplings around it, thicken 
the gravy with a spoonful of browned Hour and pour over it, 
and serve hot. 

'Possum, 'Coon, etc. 

' J .Opossum, raccoons and other small animals are good if you 
_^^ so, and are cooked like rabbits. 

-4 



Pigeon or Game Pasties. 

Lincolnshire and Oxfordshire. Bake these pasties, in meat- 
pie moulds which open and allow the form to be taken 
out. Make a crust of one pound of Hour, half a pound of 
butter, half a pint of water, the yolks of two eggs and a tea- 
spoon of salt. AVork all this into a firm paste and line the 
buttered mould, reserving part for the cover. For a two quart 
pie remove the large bones from four pigeons, season the 
inside of each one well with a mixture made of one large tea- 
spoon of salt, half a one each of pepper, clove and mace. 
Spread on each a layer of good force meat and lay in the 
mould, filling in with more force meat and bits of veal and 
ham. AVet the edges and pinch together, ornamenting the top 
with a cluster of pastry leaves placed over the hole made in the 
centre of the crust. Put in a moderate oven, after brushing it 
over with yolk of egg and bake four hours. In the meantime 
boil the bones and trimmings in one quart of water till reduced 
to half a pint, season it highly and pour it into the pie 
through the hole in the top. These pies are eaten cold, and 
of ten truffles or mushrooms are added. Small ones are made 
with one pigeon and forcemeat. Game of any sort can be 
used, enormous pies being often served. 

AVild Turkey. 

AVild turkey is without doubt the most delicious of all the 
large game birds and should be treated almost exactly like the 
domestic turkey; stuffing with chestnuts or a veal force meat, 
and roasting till tender. 

Wild Goose. 

AVild goose is selected and cooked like wild duck, remember- 
ing that it will bear much higher seasoning in both meat and 
sauce. 

Ducks. 

The list is almost endless, but they will all bear substantially 
the same treatment. A few epicures may like (or think they 
like) their canvas-back kept until upon the point of falling to 
pieces and served barely warmed through. But the majority of 
those who enjoy game like it hung and cooked upon the same 
principles that govern poultry and other meats. Dark meat of 
any kind should always be cooked rare, and red juice, not blood, 
should follow every cut with the knife. The best authorities 
agree that game birds should be roasted plain, that is, without 
stuffing, but there is no reason why any of the force meats 
given for poultry should not be used for wild duck, grouse, 
prairie chickens, etc., if one prefers them so cooked. The fol- 
lowing directions, however, will suppose that no stuffing is to 
be used except when specified. 

Canvas-back, Red-head and Mallard 

Should be carefully picked, singed, drawn and wiped with a 
wet cloth, trussed with the neck twisted around to close the 
opening in the breast, and the rump turned clown to close the 
opening through which it was drawn. Season with salt and 
roast rare from eighteen to twenty-five minutes. Place them 
on a hot dish and put a tablespoon of cold water inside to pre- 
vent the coagulation of the juice. Send a glass of currant jelly 
or wild plum jelly to table with it, or serve with essence of 
celery. 

Red-head, Teal or AA r idgeon Broiled. 

After cleaning, split down the back and flatten a little with a 
heavy cleaver. Pare off the neck, pinions and ends of the legs, 
baste well with salad oil and broil rare over a quick fire. Dish 
on dry toast. Melt two tablespoons of maitre d'hotel butter 
with a little brown gravy, pour it over the ducks and serve with 
any sharply acid jelly, or orange, or olive sauce. 

Teal. 

Teal when roasted sometimes has a plain, dry stufling as for 
chicken. Sometimes it is filled with a choppedonion and celery 
stuffing. Serve with slices of fried hominy and watercress or 
with green grape jelly. 

Fillets of Widgeon. 

Roast quick and rare four widgeons; slip off the fillets with 
a sharp knife, lay them on pieces of buttered toast and place 
in a dish sprinkled with parmesan cheese; place two fillets of 
anchovy on each fillet of duck, sprinkled with more cheese, 
grated bread crumbs, chopped parsley and melted butter. 
Bake in a very hot oven about two minutes. Squeeze the 
juice of two lemons over and serve hot. 

Salmi of Wild Duck or Grouse. 

See page 24, adding sherry or Burgundy to finish. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW Cook BOOK. 



27 



Grouse. 

Pluck with care not to tear the skin, Draw and wipe, but 

do not wash. Cut off the h'ead and truss like fowls. They 

much improved by larding, but if that is not convenient 

fasten thin slices of salt pork all over the breast and thighs. 

Haste every live, minutes. About ten minutes before taking 
up lay a thick slice of toast under each and serve on this. 
Fry coarse bread crumbs to a handsome brown in butter and 
strewthem on the platter or over the bird, send either bread 
• or brown gravy to table with them. The Scotch fashion 
is to put three tablespoons of butter into each bird instead of 
larding it. Parboil the liver and pound it to a paste with but- 
ter, salt and cayenne and use this to spread on the toast on 
which the birds are to be served. 

Potted Grouse. 

Prepare as if for roasting: season rather highly and put 

Elenty of butter inside, pack them in a deep pie dish and dot 
i r on top. Pour over a small glass of claret for each pair 
of birds and tie two or three folds of buttered paper over. 
Bake in a moderate oven one hour. Pack them by twos in 
small pots, cover with clarified butter and set away to keep till 
wanted. They will keep for three or four weeks andare excel- 
lent for breakfast or lunch. 

Fillets of Grouse, 

if the birds are badly shot to pieces or much disfigured in 
dressing, it is sometimes better to serve them filleted. After 
they have been removed separate the large from the small lillet. 
Season them with salt and pepper and dip them in a mixture of 
one tablespoon chopped parsley, one tablespoon lemon juice 
and one-half cup melted butter. Let the butter cool on them, 
then dip in a beaten egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in deep 
hot fat. Six minutes is enough for the large, four minutes for 
the small fillets. Drain on brown paper while arranging a 
mound of vegetables a la jardiniere in the center of a hot 
dish. Rest the fillets against the mound and serve with Bech- 
amel sauce poured around. 

Smothered Grouse. 

Pick, singe, void and sponge as usual. Split in halves as 
for broiling; rub well with salt and chili and baste with salad 
oil; brown delicately on a hot spider, then cover steam tight and 
set back to let it cook for half an hour or more in its own steam. 
Add one cup brown stock to the pan in which they were 
browned; let it simmer to a demi-glaze and pour over the birds. 
Serve with green peas. 

Other Game Birds. 

Partridge, pheasant, quail and prairie chicken may all be pre- 
pared according to the several directions for grouse. 

Partridge Broiled with Oyster Sauce. 

Tie the legs back against the birds and simply cover with hot 
water in which you have put a small slice of salt pork; let 
them boil until tender, but not until the flesh is broken, and 
remove them from the fire, leaving them uncovered in the hot 
water. 

Take two dozen oysters with their juice and prepare as 
directed (page 31), put them into one cup white sauce (page 42), 
and let them stand a moment without boiling. Take up the 
partridge, pour the cream over and serve hot. 

Snow-bunting. 

These plump and delicate birds are almost identical with the 
famous ortolans. Their flesh is so tender that they need to be 
handled with the greatest care. Skin them carefully, cut off 
the head and claws, pick out the eyes and twist the heads close 
to the body, turn the feet back and wrap them in oiled paper 
twisting the ends carefully. Broil them over a gentle fire for 
about five minutes, then serve in the papers laid upon toast. 

English Sparrows. 

English sparrows are frequently sold for reed-birds by enter- 
prising dealers who can reckon upon the ignorance or indiffer- 
ence of their customers. They are really much more desirable 
when shot in the country where they have been feeding on 
grain and berries, and there need be no objection to the substi- 
tution at a fair price. The bill of the reed bird is black and 
slia rj>ly pointed; the h\\\ot the sparrow is very blunt and of a 
horn color. The plumage of the reed-bird is generally lighter 
than a sparrow's, but that is not an unvarying point. 



Quail a la Cendre. 

Dress as many quail as there are to be covers. Dry them 
and put the livers inside again with a lit 
Wrap each in a thin bairde of salt pork, tucking a leaf ot 
under each wing. Wrap again in well buttered thick v 
paper and roast half an hour in hot wood ashes as you v. 
potatoes. Keniove the paper and serve with a sauce-bowl of 
gravy, reduced with sauteme, 

Ptarmigan. 

Ptarmigan are roasted, broiled, etc., like teal duck. 

Snipe. 

The best season for snipe is from August till the frosts cc 
in the latter part of October or November. Alter cleaning as 
usual, remove the skin and eyes from the head, draw it down to 
the legs and skewer the bill through the lower part of I 
Pin a thin slice of larding pork around each bird and stung 
them on a long skewer. Season well with salt, pepper and a 
dust of cayenne, roll the uncovered ends in salad oil or melted 
butter and broil for four or five minutes on each side. Serve 
on hot toast that has been moistened with maitre d'hotel but- 
ter and send to table with watercress. 

Roasted Snipe. 

Roasted snipe are prepared as above and roasted for ten 
minutes in a very hot oven. The hearts and livers are minced 
very fine with a teaspoon each of chives and butter. Salt and 
pepper to taste. Spread piecesof stale bread with this dusting, 
a few fresh crumbs on top and set in fierce oven for two 
minutes. Dress the snipe on these, garnish with watercress 
and serve the gravy that drips from the roasting birds in a 
small bowl. 

Woodcock, reed birds, rice birds, doe birds, plo .etc. 

are cooked in the same way. 

Salmi of Snipe. 

Stuff six fat snipe with a rich forcemeat, stick the bills in 
the breast and lay them in a roasting pan with a little butter. 
Ten minutes is sufficient in a hot oven. In the meantime fry 
six squares of bread in butter; lay the snipe on them and pour 
over all one pint of salmi sauce. This is made of any rich and 
highly-seasoned stock, to which is added two or three cooked 
livers of any kind of cooked birds and twelve mushrooms cut 
in dice. Boil up once, add a little grated yellow of lemon and 
pour over the snipe, serving very hot. Some French cooks put 
the birds into the sauce and stew together for a few minute-. 
but the first method is best. 

Larks. 

What, is the jay more precious than the lark, 
Because his feathers are more beautiful'.' 
Taming of tiu Slrr, ir, iv. :i. 

Our common meadow lark is as good for table use as his 
more famous English cousin and has the advantage in addi- 
tion of being considerably larger. 

Roasted, Broiled or Stewed Larks. 

For roast, broil or stew see directions for pigeon or snipe. 

Lark Pie. 

Pick and clean two dozen larks, cutting off their heads and 
necks; fill them with a forcemeat made of their livers finely 
minced (it is well to add all the livers of three or four broiling 
chickens) three ounces of veal, three ounces fat bacon, a salt- 
spoon of salt, as little pepper, sweet herbs and nutmeg as will 
season (about one teaspoon of the mixture). Pound this 
forcemeat well before putting it into the birds. Lay them into 
a deep dish, pour over a pint of Spanish sauce (page 42), cover 
with a rather thick fiat of short paste and bake in a moderate, 
oven. Pour more gravy through the hole in the crust and gar- 
nish the pie with leaves and twists of pastry. Best the third or 
fourth day after baking. 

To Cook Small Birds. 

Parboil a sweet potato for each bird. Pare the potatoes. 
Have the birds dressed and washed. Scoop out the center of 
each potato while warm. Place the birds in the cavities; but- 
ter, pepper and salt thoroughly. Set on end in a pan, put in a 
hot oven for twenty minutes. To have this dish good, butter 
must be used generously, and the oven very hot. 

The truffled larks prepared by Ch. Teyssonneau of Bordeaux, 
are to be had of all first-class grocers and are delicious for 
lunch basket or for picnic parties. 




This is an important part of our food supply. It furnishes 
nitrogen, chiefly in the form of albumen and gelatine, not in so 
large proportion as meat, but sufficient to make a nourishing 
food. It is, for most people, easily digested, and it makes an 
agreeable change in the usual routine of roast, broil, fry and 
boil. Indeed most people in this land of plenty eat far too 
much meat; its cheapness brings it within the reach of all, and 
the stimulus which it yields is so agreeable that we easily fall 
into the habit of taking it morning, noon and night, while fish 
is forgotten or neglected. A notable advantage, especially in 
hot weather, is the short time required to cook fish; another is 
the great variety of kinds, through the long list of fresh and 
salt water, red or white fleshed, dry, salt or fresh. It is cheap 
too as compared with meat, and ought to be still more so, for 
very little time or expense is required to produce, only to bring 
it to market. Those who do not live on the seaboard or near 
the great lakes may still get fish reasonably fresh with the 
refrigerator car service, while the remotest dweller on mountain 
or plain may have them dried, pickled, smoked or tinned. 

Very large fish are as a rule better when boiled or steamed, 
medium sized ones should be baked or split and broiled and 
small ones fried. Fish with dark meat being richer in fat and 
higher flavored should not be fried. 

A fish is in good condition when its gills are a bright clear 
red, its eyes full and the body firm and stiff. Before cooking 
they should be well washed in cold water, and kept in salt 
water for a short time, but they should not be allowed to stand 
in water for any length of time, and should be kept upon ice 
until wanted. 

Scrape with a dull knife from the tail toward the head. 
If the fish is to be cooked at once, it will be much easier 
to remove the scales if the fish is rinsed in boiling water. 
Small fish to be served whole, have the entrails removed 
by opening under the gills and pressing out their contents 
with the thumb and finger. Larger fish are split half way 
down the belly and the inside scraped and washed with 
salt and water after it is empty. For broiling it is best 
to remove the back bone entirely. Lay the fish flat on a 
board and with a sharp knife lift the flesh from the bones on 
one side, then turn and repeat on the other side, being careful 
not to hack the meat. Split the head with the body and leave 
on both head and tail unless too large for your broiler. 

Broiled Fish. 

Large fish should be split through the back to broil and for 
most stoves the head and tail must be removed. Use a double 
wire broiler and grease it well before laying in the fish. Dust 
the fish with salt and pepper and broil the flesh side first till 
almost done, then cook on the skin side just long enough to 
brown it well. Small fish require from five to ten minutes. 
Thick ones from fifteen to twenty minutes. Turn a dripping- 
pan over the broiler and it will cook more evenly. There 
is no excuse for scorching the fish," as one can always scatter a 
few ashes over a hot fire. Spread generously with butter and 
set in the warming oven a minute to let it penetrate the fish. 
Garnish with parsley or water-cress after taking from the oven. 

Spanish Mackerel. 

Draw by the gills; wash, rubbing with coarse salt and trim off 
all the fins closely. Split down the back, remove the bone, wipe 
dry and season with salt and pepper; brush over thoroughly 
with oil and broil slowly till well cooked. Slide on a hot dish 
and pour over melted butter or any suitable sauce. 

k So 



Salmon Bone Broiled. 

In filleting a fish to be broiled, leave a half inch or more of 
meat on the backbone. Rub well with salt and cayenne pepper 
and broil over a clear fire till well browned. This is delicious 
for breakfast. 

Baked Fish. 

The best fish to bake are white fish, bass, pickerel, pike, red- 
snapper, shad, etc, all having white flesh. They should be 
basted often and a stuffing also serves to keep the fish moist as 
well as to season it. 

Clean, wipe and dry the fish. If the fish is slimy, like a musk- 
allonge, scald with hot water before attempting to clean. 
Rub with salt inside and out, stuff and sew with soft darning 
cotton, leaving a large knot at one end that you can find 
after the fish is baked; cut gashes two inches apart on 
each side so they will alternate — not oppose each other — 
and skewer into the shape of an S or an O; put the tish 
on a sheet, rub all over with soft butter, salt and pepper 
and place narrow strips of salt pork in the gashes; dredge with 
flour (or not, just as you please), and put into a hot oven with- 
out water; baste with hot water and butter as soon as it begins 
to brown and repeat every ten minutes afterwards. Remove 
it carefully from the fish sheet and place it on a hot platter, 
draw out the string, wipe off all the water or fat which runs 
from the fish and remove the pieces of pork. Pour Holland- 
aise sauce around (not over) the fish, or serve a drawn butter 
sauce flavored with lemon,and pile Saratoga chips lightly around 
the fish. Garnish the head of the fish with parsley or water- 
cresses. Fish that have been frozen are almost sure to break; 
if they do, fill in the broken places with parsley. 

Stuffing for Baked Fish. 

For a fish weighing four to six pounds take one cup of 
cracker crumbs, one saltspoon of salt, one saltspoon of pepper, 
one teaspoon of chopped onions, one teaspoon of chopped par- 
sley, one teaspoon of capers, one teaspoon of chopped pickles, 
and one-fourth cup of melted butter. This makes a dry, 
crumbly stuffing; if a moist stuffing is desired, use stale (not 
dried) bread crumbs and moisten with one beaten egg and the 
butter; or moisten the cracker crumbs with warm water. Bo 
not pack the stuffing in the fish, allow it to lie lightly and 
leave room enough for it to swell in cooking. 

Oyster Stuffing. 

One pint of oysters, one cup of seasoned and buttered 
cracker crumbs. Drain and roll each oyster in the crumbs. 
Fill the fish with the oysters and sprinkle the remainder of the 
crumbs over the oysters.— From Mrs. Lincoln's "Boston Cook 
Book. 

Baked Halibut Steaks. 

Trim the steaks, lay them in a roasting-pan, and for two 
pounds use one cup of cream, one teaspoon of flour, one table- 
spoon of butter, one teaspoon of salt and a saltspoon of pepper. 
Dredge the steaks with the flour; add the seasoning and dot 
with the butter; then pour over the cream, and bake fifteen 
minutes in a quick oven. These are delicious. Fresh cod may 
be treated in the same way, and if any is left it will make an 
excellent scallop. 

It is much safer and easier in baking fish to use a Daking 
sheet to lay in the pan under the fish. It should be an inch 
smaller each way than the pan. It can be bought fitted with 
rings to lift out by, but any piece of sheet iron or tin will do; 
a tomato can melted and flattened. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



29 



Bread stuffing. 

Soak half a pint, of bread crumbs in water; when soft press 
out all the water. Fry one tablespoon minced onion in two of 
butter, add the bread, a teaspoon chopped parsley, pepper and 

sail. Lei rook till nearly dry, coot for a few minutes and beat, 

Meat Stuffing. 

One-quarter pound lender lean veal, one-eighth pound fat 
bacon chopped line. Add one-fourth the measure of white 
bread crumbs, soaked and pressed, season to taste with chopped 
onion, parsley or mushroom and plenty of salt and pepper, 

Small Fish Baked. 

Lav in a baking dish with chopped onion, mushrooms and 

ubthe fish with salt, pepper, a bit, of nutmeg and dot 

with butter. Pour in enough thin broth to cover bottom of 

dish, add (lie juice of one-half lemon and bake till the llesh 

parts easily from the bone. 

Whitefish, Point Shirley Style. 

Split the lish and lay open with the meat side up. Season 
with salt and pepper anil place in a baking-pan on a bed of 
pork chips. Bake in a very quick oven, brushing it over once 
or twice with beaten egg while it is cooking. 

Boiling. 

Boiling, unless done au Court Bouillon is a most unsatisfac- 
factory way of preparing fish, as it renders the meat insipid 
and imparts a peculiar woolly texture not pleasant to the sen- 
sitive tongue. Steaming is better in every way and much easier 
for the unskilled cook. An hour before the lish is to be cooked 
cover it thickly inside and out with salt, let it stand till live 
minutes before time to put it over the lire. Wash off the salt, 
pin in a piece of coarse muslin and drop into fresh boiling 
water, or lay in a steamer over boiling water. 

Allow about six minutes to the pound, and test by lifting the 
llesh from the bones in the thickest part. If it separates easily, 
it is cooked enough and should be taken up at once, and well 
drained before serving. Lay on a folded napkin on the platter, 
as the juice will run. Underdone lish are dangerously unwhole- 
some. 

Steamed Fish. 

Clean carefully, but without removing head or fins. Rub 
inside and out with salt, pepper and lemon juice, laying slices 
of onion inside, if liked. Lay on a buttered paper and steam 
till the tlesh parts easily from the bones. Lay on a folded nap- 
kin, dress with lemon and parsley and send to the table with 
Poulette Sauce. 

Salmon, Boiled Plain. 

Have ready a fish-kettle with enough boiling soft water to 
cover the fish; wash off the water from the lish and let it come 
rather slowly to the boil again. Simmer very gently till done, 
allowing about fifteen minutes to each pound. Throw in one 
tablespoon salt just before it is done. Serve with plain drawn 
butter sauce. 

Darne of Salmon. 

Is the middle cut; there are but two, or sometimes three from 
a large fish. Lay in a stew-pan on a bed of sliced carrots and 
onions, (two tablespoons each) parsley and peppercorns; 
dredge lightly with salt and pour over one pint claret, one pint 
thin broth, dot with three tablespoons butter and cover with a 
buttered paper. Bring quickly to a boil and simmer very | 
gently one hour. Drain and remove the skin, mask with a 
Remoulade sauce. The liquor in which the lish is cooked can 
be strained and used several times. 

Pike a la Soyer. 

Cleanse as usual, leaving head and tail on. Place on the 
drainer in a fish-kettle with (four pounds lish) one level table- 
spoon salt, six pepper-corns two leaves parsley, one tablespoon 
butter, one carrot, one onion sliced fine, one cup white wine. 
one pint water. Cover with a thickly buttered paper, set to 
boil and simmer forty minutes. Meantime prepare a sauce; 
one ounce butter and one tablespoon Hour worked together, 
add enough lish gravy to make a white sauce, thicken with one 
egg yolk beaten with an equal bulk of water and strain, finish 
with lemon-juice, one tablespoon Soyer's sauce and all the but- 
ter it will absorb. Slide the fish on a folded napkin; garnish 
with parsley and potato chips. Send sauce to table in a bowl. 



Boiled Cod with Oysters. 

(The only thing that can be urged against this most excel- 
lenl lish is its homely name. Were it not so cheap, its good 
qualities would rapidly find favor at all gastronomic < 
in. nls.) Put the lish into boiling water. Slightly sailed; add a 
few whole cloves and peppers and a bit of lemon-peel; pull 
gently on the fins, and when they come out easily the lish is 
done. . Arrange neatly on a folded napkin, garnish, and serve 
wil h oyster sauce. Take six oysters to every pound of fish and 
scald (blanch) them in a half-pint of hot oyster liquor; take 
out the oysters and add to the liquor salt, pepper, a bit of mace 
and an ounce of butter; whip into it a gill of milk containing 
a quarter of a tablespoon of flour. Simmer a moment, add the 
oysters, and send to table in a sauce-boat. 

Stewed Fish with Oysters. 

Cut the fish in pieces for serving, remove the skin and bone. 
Spread a thick coating of butter over the bottom of a stew-pan, 
lay in the fish, season each layer with salt and pepper, pour on 
boiling water to more than cover, add a tablespoon of lemon 
juice or vinegar and simmer fifteen or twenty minutes, or till 
the fish is cooked but not broken. Adda tablespoon of Hour 
cooked in a tablespoon of hot butter; mix it well with tin 
ing liquid without breaking the lish. Add a quart of o\ 
or enough to equal the amount of fish. Simmer until 
oysters are plump. Add more seasoning if needed and. 
very hot. 

Smelts as a Garnish. 

Smelts are often fried plain or. rolled in meal or Hour 
and then fried, they are used to garnish other kinds of 
fish. With baked fish they aie arranged around the dish in 
any form that the taste of the cook may dictate; but in garnish- 
ing lish or any other dish, the arrangement should always be 
simple, so as not to make the matter of serving any harder 
than if the dish were not garnished. Smelts are also seasoned 
well with salt and pepper, dipped in butter and afterwards in 
tlour and place in a very hot oven for eight or ten minutes to 
get a handsome brown. They are then served as a garnish, or 
on slices of buttered toast. When smelts are used as a garnish, 
serve one on each plate with the other fish. If you wish to 
have the smelts in rings for a garnish, fasten the tails in the 
opening at the gills with little wooden toothpicks; then dip 
them in the beaten egg and in the crumbs, place in the frying- 
basket and plunge into the boiling fat. When they are cooked 
take out the skewers and they will retain their shape. 

Panned Fish. 

This is suitable for any small fish or such as can be cut in 
slices. Have the fish well cleaned, seasoned with pepper and 
salt and dried with a little flour, or better still, very line bread 
crumbs. Have a large frying-pan smoking hot with as little 
grease in it as will keep the fish from sticking. Dripping from 
good, sweet salt pork is the best, but any sweet dripping will 
do. When the fat begins to smoke blue, lay in the fish and 
brown quickly on both sides, then cover closely and set back to 
cook more slowly, from ten to twenty minutes, according to the 
size of the fish. Bass in all its varieties, black, green, striped, 
calico, Oswego and grass are suitable to cook in this way, so are 
butter-fish, cisco, perch, herring, trout, bream, etc. 

FRIED FISH. 

Fish for frying should be thoroughly dried after cleaning, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, roHed in fine bread crumbs, 
dipped in beaten egg, rolled in crumbs again, fried in deep 
fat like doughnuts; put in only a few pieces at a time to avoid 
chilling the fat and let it reheat before frying any more. The 
temperature should not fall below 375 degrees. From two to 
live minutes is sufficient for any but extra large pieces. The 
fish is done when it rises to the top of the fat. "Drain perfectly 
dry on paper and arrange on a folded napkin. Fry the parsley 
that is to garnish the dish, taking care to have it crisp, without 
changing its color. 

Fried Cod or Haddock. 

Remove the skin (ask the fish-dealer to remove it for you), 
cut in square pieces and remove the backbone. Scrape all the 
lish from the bones, and press it with a knife into the larger 
pieces. Season with salt and pepper and roll in fine white corn- 
meal. Fry several slices of salt pork, enough to have a cup of 
fat. Lay the fish in the hot fat, cook brown on each. side. 
Drain on soft paper and serve hot. Spread with butter, and 
garnish with slices of lemon. 

Any fish having firm white flesh can be prepared in this man- 
ner and it is a vast improvement on the old method of sending 
all the bones to the table. 



30 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



I 



Fried Halibut. 

Let the slices lie in cold salted water, to which has been 
added one cup of vinegar, for ten or fifteen minutes. Dry them 
afterwards thoroughly by wiping with a towel, and dusting 
cracker meal on both sides. Lay them in smoking hot salad 
oil, and they will be well cooked and of a pale brown in three 
or five minutes, according to the thickness of the slices. 

Halibut, Maitre d'H6tel. 

Cut three pounds of halibut into pieces three inches square- 
Dip each in beaten egg, then in sifted bread crumbs. Fry in 
boiling lard to a rich brown. Rub a heaping teaspoon of but- 
ter to a cream, add the juice of a lemon, a tablespoon of chopped 
parsley, salt and pepper, mix and spread on the hot squares of 
halibut, set in the oven just long enough to melt, then serve. 
Not difficult, and delicious for summer breakfasts. 

Fried Roe. 

"Wash and wipe, fry twenty minutes in hot fat in a frying- 
pan, turning at the end of fifteen minutes. Season, dish on a 
hot platter and garnish with fried oysters or fried potatoes. 
Garnish with a great bunch of parsley at each end and a half 
lemon set in the parsley. 

Fish au Gratin. 

Six pounds of any fish with white meat, steamed, freed from 
skin and bone and broken into flakes. One pint of cream 
sauce No. 1 and one cup cracker crumbs moistened with melted 
butter; put a layer of fish in a gratin dish, season well with 
salt, pepper, cayenne and celery salt, and sprinkle with 
chopped parsley, pour over a part of the cream sauce, repeat till 
the fish is all used, reserving most of the sauce to pour over the 
top; sprinkle buttered crumbs over the top and bake in a rather 
quick oven until it boils up in the middle and the crumbs are 
brown. 

Matelote of Eels. 

Cut one and one-half pounds of eels into slices one inch thick 
and saute them in hot butter two minutes. Add a glass of 
white wine and three tablespoons of mushroom liquor (one- 
half the liquor from a small can). Season well with salt and 
pepper and a dust of nutmeg. Cook for ten minutes, then add 
one-half pint of good drawn butter made with broth if possi- 
ble, six mushrooms, twelve parboiled oysters, six fish quenelles 
and six small cooked crawfish tails. Simmer again forfivemin- 
utes or longer if needed to make the fish tender without break- 
ing. Arrange the slices in a ring on the platter, each slice 
overlapping the one before it; thicken the gravy with a liaison 
of three egg yolks and pour it over the fish. — Adapted from 
Filippina. 

Salmon Pasty (Norway and Sweden). 

Two pounds of salmon cutlets, cut thin, breaded and fried 
brown in butter and left to cool. Take two pounds of fresh 
pike or other fish, mince fine, and add a teaspoon of salt, a 
pinch of cayenne, the juice and grated rind of a lemon, two 
beaten eggs, and a spoon of melted butter. Mix all well to- 
gether. Line a large meat-pie mould with good pastry, spread 
a layer of the minced fish upon it, and then the salmon, with 
mushrooms, shrimps and oysters in between. Cover with the 
rest of the pike, rounding it up in dome-shape, and lay on a 
thick lid of pastry, making a small hole in the center, and cover- 
ing it with some leaves of pastry. Bake one hour in a mod- 
erate oven, and then pour into the hole a cupful of white sauce 
or rich fish broth. Serve hot or cold. 

A Norwegian Fish-Pudding. 

Take a five or six pound haddock, clean, skin, fillet and scrape 
to a pulp with a knife. Pound in a mortar until it is smooth; 
add one teaspoon salt and one tablespoon butter, and continue 
working for ten minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and work 
in with a potato masher two egg yolks blended with one cup of 
cream, putting it in by spoonfuls; add another cup cream 
and one-half pepperspoon allspice. Beat furiously and when it 
is frothy put in a buttered mold and steam for three hours. If 
desired the top may be browned before serving, but it should 
be quickly done. Serve with cream and caper sauce (p. 42.) It 
should be fine, smooth and firm as blanc mange. Fresh cod 
may be used instead of haddock. Instead of making a pudding 
the paste may be formed into balls the size of an egg, steamed 
in a close mold or box and afterwards fried brown in batter 
and served either with or without sauce, or they may be 
poached in a curry sauce or made very small and dropped into 
a thick fish soup. In frying fish Norwegian cooks often dust 
the pieces with grated cheese and add alittle to the sauce served 
with the fish. — Adapted from "The Epicure." 



Fish Cutlets. 

• 

Cut the fish in squares or in slices across the back, removing 
all the bones. Dry, dip in batter and fry in deep boiling lard. 
It is quite necessary that the lard should boil. When a gold 
color, drain till dry on brown paper and serve on a folded nap- 
kin with a quantity of parsley or cresses and a thin slice of 
lemon. A tomato, mayonnaise or tartare sauce may be served 
with the cutlets. 

Dropped Fish Balls. 

One half pint of raw fish, one heaping pint of pared potatoes 
(let the potatoes be under medium size), two eggs, butter the 
size of an egg and a little pepper. Cut the fish in half -inch 
slices across the grain, and measure it lightly. Put the 
potatoes into the boiler and the fish on top of them; then 
cover with boiling water and boil half an hour, or until 
tender. Drain off all the water and mash fish and potatoes 
together until fine and light. Then add the butter and 
pepper and the egg, well beaten. Have a deep kettle of 
boiling fat. Dip a tablespoon in it and then take up a 
spoonful of the mixture, having care to get it into as good shapf 
as possible. Drop into the boiling fat and cook until brown, 
which should be in two minutes. Be careful not to crowd the 
balls and also that the fat is hot enough. The spoon should be 
dipped in the fat every time you take a spoon of the mixture. 
These balls are delicious. 

To Cook Salt Codfish. 

The fish should be thoroughly washed and soaked in cold 
water twelve hours. Change the water and put on to cook. 
As soon as the water comes to the boiling point set back where 
it will keep hot, but will not boil. From four to six hours will 
cook a very dry, hard fish, and there are kinds which will cook 
in half an hour. If it has hung in a furnace heated cellar till 
hard it will never come tender. It is best not to buy more than 
will be used in a week or two. Like ham, bacon and meat in 
general, it should be hung, not laid on a shelf. 

Frog Legs. 

The green marsh frogs furnish the best hams, as they are 
more tender and have less of the strong muddy flavor. They 
are generally liked fried. Pare off the feet and truss them by 
inserting the stump along the shin of the other leg. Put them 
with salt, pepper and lemon juice to steep for an hour, then 
drain and roll in flour, then in beaten egg and in fine bread 
crumbs. Fry to a light brown in hot fat. Serve with fried 
parsley. 

Stewed Frogs a la Poulette. 

Trim, truss and marinate as for frying. Cook in a sautoir 
with two tablespoons butter, salt, pepper and a speck of nut- 
meg. Cook briskly and long enough to evaporate the water 
without allowing them to burn. Add two glasses white wine, 
a pint of velvet sauce; cover and boil till quite tender. Skim, 
add a liaison of four egg-yolks, one tablespoon chopped parsley, 
the juice of a lemon and two ounces of butter. Mix well and 
serve with fried croutons. 

Frog Legs a la Mariniere. 

Saute three dozen legs with two ounces of butter, one-half 
pint chopped mushrooms, four shallots. As soon as well 
colored add a tablespoon flour, a little salt, pepper and cayenne, 
and moisten with a half pint of white wine and enough 
consomme' to nearly cover. Boil ten minutes. Mix the yolks 
of four eggs with two tablespoons cream and stir it into the 
boiling mixture. Remove at once from the lire and serve. 

SHELL FISH. 

Oysters on the Half Shell. 

Keep on ice till serving time. Have small soup-plates hair 
full of fine ice and lay the oysters, in the deep half of the shell, 
on the plates as fast as opened. Salt, pepper and a cut lemon 
should be served at the side, and a true oyster lover will use no 
other sauce. Small oysters are preferred, and four to six are 
enough for each plate. 

On a Block of Ice. 

Have the dealer chip in a ten pound block of perfectly clear 
ice, a cavity large enough to hold as many oysters as are to be 
served. Clean and drain them as usual, but do not season, as 
it causes the juice to flow. Fold a large towel and cover it 
with a napkin to lay in the platter; prop the block of ice care- 
fully with wads of cloth, lest it should tilt in melting- Fill the 
platter full of parsley, so that the ice should seem to be resting 
on green leaves only, and garnish the edge of the oysters with 
fine small sprigs of parsley and celery tips. 



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31 



To Prepare Oysters for Cooking. 

Pour half a cup of cold water «'\ er one quart of oysters; take 
out each oyster separately with ithe fingers and free from any 
bits of shell. The oyster liquor may be strained and used in 
soup, stew or escallop if desired. Fried and broiled oysters are 
h better and cook easier if parboiled slightly beforecrumb 
ing, Place onepini of cleaned oysters in a frying basket and 
dip it for one-half minute in a kettle id' boiling water deep 
enough to cover them. Drain, dry on a soft towel ami proceed 
as usual. 

Broiled Oysters. 

Take the largest oysters, scald, dram, dry on a towel and dip 
one by ime into softened butter till well coated and then in sea- 
soned Hour. Lay them on a buttered broiler. Cook over clear 
ciials until a light brown. Serve on slices of buttered thin 
1 1 iast. If done by a gas stove lay the toast under the broiler to 
catch the drip. Fine cracker crumbs may be used instead of 
flour, oysters that have been breaded for frying are good 
broiled. 

Broiled Oysters No. 2. 

Take two dozen large oysters, cleaned, drained and dried in 
a soft cloth. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Melt two ounces 
butter in a large frying pan, lay in one dozen, as soon as the 
last one is in turn the lirst one and when all have been turned 
begin taking out, laying them closely on a large buttered oyster 
broiler; cook to a light brown over moderate lire. While these 
are browning the other dozen may be "set" in the butter. Have 
six rounds of toast on a hot platter; put four oysters on each, 
sprinkle on the butter in which they were stiffened and serve 
with lemon cut in eighths. 

Deviled Oysters. 

One heaping saltspoon dry mustard, one-half saltspoon each 
pepper and salt and the yolk of one egg. Mix to a smooth 
paste and coat six large oysters with it. Roll them in fine 
crumbs and broil over a clear tire. Arrange and serve. 

Spindled Oysters. 

For six persons take two dozen large oysters, two ounces 
bacon and six small slices of thin toast. Six slender steel 
skewers will be needed. Cut two dozen wafers of bacon. Fill 
the skewers with bacon and oyster alternately, running the 
skewer cross-grain through the muscle of the oyster and string- 
ing the bits of bacon by one corner so that each slice may over- 
lie an oyster; do not crowd them. Lay the skewers across a 
baking-pan and cook under gas or in a quick oven for five 
minutes. Do not take the oysters from the spindle but lay 
each one on a slice of toast, pour over them the drip from the 
pan and serve at once. 

Griddled Oysters No, 2. 

Clean, scald and drain two dozen large oysters. Have a large 
griddle evenly heated; drop on it a bit of sweet butter as large 
as a pea and put an oyster on it; lay on one dozen and give 
them plenty of room; put on anotherbit of butter and turn the 
lirst oyster on to that; proceed in this way for all. Do not let 
them burn, but they must brown quickly. If too much butter 
is put on it will spread over the griddle and scorch and the 
smoke will ruin the oysters. Serve four to each person on a 
two-inch square of rye short cake. 

Oysters Roasted in the Shell. 

Wash the shells clean and wipe dry. Place in a baking-pan 
and put in a hot oven for about twenty minutes. Serve on hot 
dishes the moment they are taken from the oven. Though this 
is not an elegant dish, many people enjoy it, as the first and 
best flavor of the oysters is retained in this manner of cooking. 
The oysters can, instead, be opened into a hot dish and seasoned 
with butter, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. They should be 
served immediately. 

Roasted Oysters on Toast. 

Eighteen large oysters, or thirty small ones, one teaspoon of 
Hour, one tablespoon of butter, salt, pepper, three slices of toast. 
Have the toast buttered and on a hot dish. Put the butter in 
j, small sauce-pan, and when hot add the dry flour. Stir until 
smooth, but not brown; then add the cream, and let it boil up 
once. Put the oysters (in their own liquor) into a hot oven for 
three minutes; then add them to the cream. Season and pour 
over the toast. Garnish the dish with thin slices of lemon, and 
serve very hot. It is nice for lunch or tea. 

For oyster soup see chapter on soup.— Miss Parloa. 



Oyster Stew. 

Boil one cup of strained oyster liquor ami ball' a cup of 
water. Skim, add half a teaspoon of salt, half a saltspoon of 
pepper, one tablespoon of butter, ami one tablespoon rolled 
cracker. When it begins to boil add onequart of oysters. Boil 
one minute. Put half a cup of cream or cold milk into the 
t ureen, and pour the boiling stew over it. 

Fried Oysters. 

Pick over, scald and drain dry two dozen oysters, sprinkle 
lightly with red pepper, roll in cracker dust, dip in egg mixed 
u ith an equal quantity of thick cream; drain and roll in fresh 
line bread crumbs; press gently with a palette knife, fry half a 
dozen at a time in clear fat, hot enough to brown thei 
minute. As soon as the first basket is lifted drop in a half 
dozen slices of raw potato to keep the fat from burning while 
the oysters are changed for another half dozen; proceed in this 
way until all are clone. (Put in a whole potato in slices and 
take from the fire at once; with a little care the same fat may 
be used repeatedly, when otherwise it would be blackened the 
first time.) Drain the oysters on soft brown paper. Have a 
tuft of parsley on a hot folded napkin; range the oysters 
quickly and serve instantly. It is better not to begin frying 
until they are wanted than to delay serving. Nothing can be 
less inviting than a cold fried oyster or one that has been kept 
hot for live minutes. 

Philadelphia Fry. 

Proceed as before, but after they are rolled in crumbs the 
first time, dip them in very cold, thick mayonnaise, then into 
egg, and roll in crumbs again before frying. This is difficult 
but delicious. 

Sauteed. 

To one pint prepared oysters put one pint stale bread crumbs, 
season and add two eggs beaten lightly. Let them stand one 
hour, then lay by spoons in a frying-pan and brown quickly on 
both sides in hot butter. Serve at once. 

Creamed Oysters. 

Prepare cream sauce No. 1, taking one-half the quantity of 
butter, scald the oysters until the edges begin to curl, drain and 
drop them into the cream sauce; let all stand in bain marie for 
five minutes to season thorough. Serve in Swedish timbales 
or in pate shells. It is very nice used as a filling for short cake, 
croustade, or on toast. 

White Fricassee of Oysters. 

Put one tablespoon of butter into a frying-pan, and, when 
hot, put in one pint of oysters washed and drained. Cook till 
plump and drain again. Pour the oyster liquor into a cup and 
fill with cream. Cook one tablespoon flour with one of butter 
and blend with the cream and oyster liquor; add one-half salt- 
spoon pepper and about one-half teaspoon salt. (Oysters vary 
in freshness.) Beat one egg very light and pour the oyster sauce 
upon it; add the oysters and return to the pan to be well heated, 
but it must not boil. Stir gently that it may cook evenly. Serve 
in crust or pastry shells if for lunch or dinner; for breakfast or 
tea, on toast. — Miss Amy Barnes. 

Brown Fricassee 

Is made in the same way except that one-half tablespoon flour 
is carefully browned in the butter; add the oysters seasoned 
with salt, cayenne and lemon juice. Stir gently, and as soon as 
they cool, sprinkle with a little finely chopped parsley and 
serve on dry buttered toast. 

Panned Oysters. 

Put one tablespoon butter in a covered saucepan with one- 
half saltspoon of white pepper, one teaspoon salt, and a few 
grains of cayenne, when hot add one pint of washed and drained 
oysters, cover closely and shake the pan to keep them from 
sticking; cook about three minutes or until plump. Serve on 
toasted bread or crackers. 

Oysters Panned in the Shell. 

Wash the shells and wipe dry. Place them in a pan with the 
round shell down. Set in a hot oven for three minutes; then 
take out and remove the upper shell. Put two or three oysters 
into one of tne round shells, season with pepper and salt, add 
butter, the size of two peas, and cover with cracker or bread 
crumbs. Return to the oven and brown. 



" T1 ~>TN.T 



32 



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> 



•• 



Scolloped Oysters. 

One quart solid oysters cleaned and drained, one-half cap 
butter, one cup grated bread crumbs, one cup coarse cracker 
crumbs. Rub a pudding-pan thickly with cold butter and 
sprinkle a layer of bread crumbs, moisten the rest of the bread 
with part of the butter melted and stir the rest of the butter into 
the cracker. Arrange oysters and bread in alternate layers, using 
cracker for the top. Season each with pepper and salt, allow- 
ing one and one-half teaspoons of salt, one saltspoon of pep- 
per and about one tablespoon of lemon juice for the whole. 
Pour over one-quarter cup of the oyster liquor and set aside for 
an hour. If it looks very dry add another one-quarter cup of 
oyster juice before baking. Cook about twenty-five minutes 
in a quick oven. Wine, milk or Worcestershire sauce are 
sometimes used, but are no improvement. One suspects that 
the oysters are not fresh when disguised by such high seasoning. 

To Pickle Oysters. 

Two hundred large oysters, half a pint of vinegar, half a 
pint of white wine, four spoons of salt, six spoons of whole 
black pepper and a little mace. Strain the liquor, and add 
the above-named ingredients. Let boil up once, and pour, 
while boiling hot, over the oysters. After these have stood ten 
minutes, pour off the liquor, which, as well as the oysters, 
should then be allowed to get cold. Put into a jar and' cover 
tight. The oysters will keep some time.— Miss Parloa. 

Clams. 

There is really no special season for these most nutritious 
fish, but custom decrees that they shall be served only during 
the season when oysters are forbidden. Most of the methods 
of serving oysters can be applied with slight modifications to 
the cooking of clams— but the following directions for cooking 
in a chafing-dish are worth noting: 

Select one dozen large Guilford clams, wash thoroughly and 
plunge them into boiling water for a moment. Drain and open 
them and use the round plump part only. Put in the chafing- 
dish a pat of butter and when quite hot add a dust of flour and 
cayenne to suit the taste; simmer the clams till they are 
slightly cooked, about four minutes and pour in one gill light 
sherry. Cover and simmer five minutes. Serve on hot toast. 

Clam Broth. 

Twenty-five clams washed and drained, steam till the shells 
open easily; save every drop of juice that comes with open- 
ing and add enough water to make one quart. With a pair of 
scissors trim off the soft part of the clam and reserve to serve 
with the broth. Chop the tough portion a little and simmer fif- 
teen minutes in the broth. Strain and add pepper and salt if 
needed, and serve in very small bouillon cups. Send the re- 
served portion to the table with melted butter and lemon juice 
poured over them. 

Scallops. 

The only edible part of the scollop is the central muscle by 
which the mollusk opens and closes its shell. Shippers some- 
times add saleratus to the scollops to improve their appearance, 
but this is a detriment to the fish. In buying, avoid the large 
ones that are very white, choosing instead those of medium 
size and the natural creamy white color. Tney are most appe- 
tizing when fried. Rinse them in salt water, dry in a napkin 
and dredge with flour. Fry in very hot pork fat. Egg and 
crumbs are not needed. 

Scallop Broth. 

Wash and cut in small pieces one-half pint, add one-half pint 
each of milk and water, a dot of butter and salt to taste. 
Simmer twenty minutes, strain and serve. 

Scallops in Shells. 

Drain a pint of them and toss them with a tablespoon of 
butter in a sauce-pan letting them brown lightly for about ten 
minutes. Then take them up and chop them fine. Melt a 
spoonful of butter in a sauce-pan, add a small onion minced 
fine and brown it lightly. Then add a heaping teaspoon of 
flour and stir in slowly a cupful ef the liquor drained from the 
scallops. Season with a teaspoon of salt, a pinch of cayenne, 
and a little white pepper. Mix with the chopped scallops four 
tablespoons of bread crumbs and the yolks of three eggs, and 
cook all together for three minutes. Then fill the shells, 
sprinkle fine bread crumbs over the top, and dot with bits of 
butter, and set them in a hot oven to brown for ten minutes. 
Serve them on a platter with a garnish of green. 



Lobster. 

Lobster, to be eatable, should be perfectly fresh. One of the 
tests of freshness is to draw back the tail, for if it springs into 
position again, it is safe to think the fish good. The time of 
boiling varies with the size of the lobster and in different local- 
ities. In Boston, Rockport, and other places on the Massachu- 
setts coast the time is fifteen or twenty minutes for large lob- 
sters and ten for small. The usual way is to plunge them into 
boiling water enough to cover, and to continue boiling them 
until they are done. Some people advocate putting the lobsters 
into cold water and letting this come to a boil gradually. They 
claim that the lobsters do not suffer so much. This may be so, 
but it seems as if death must instantly follow the plunge into 
boiling water. Cooking a lobster too long makes it tough and 
dry. When, on opening a lobster, you find the meat clinging 
to the shell and very much shrunken, you may be sure the time 
of boiling was too long. There are very few modes of cooking 
lobster in which it should be more than thoroughly heated, as 
much cooking toughens it and destroys the fine, delicate flavor 
of the meat. 

Lobster Newburg. 

Cut the meat of two small lobsters into small thin slices and 
cook them slowly in four tablespoons of butter for live minutes. 
Then add one teaspoon of salt, one saltspoon pepper, a speck of 
cayenne, two tablespoons each of brandy and sherry, a dash of 
mace and simmer five minutes longer. Beat well the yolks of 
four eggs, mix with them one cup cream and pour it over the 
cooking mixture. Stir constantly for one and one-half minutes, 
then serve quickly in a warm dish. Garnish with triangles of 
puff-paste. 

Lobster Souffle. 

Dice a two-pound lobster, showing the red side as much as 
possible. Put bands of writing paper, about two inches high, 
around as many individual ramequin cases as you wish" to 
serve. Beat three tablespoons of stiff mayonnaise, one cup 
aspic jelly, one-half cup tomato sauce together until they bi 
to look white, then stir in the pieces of lobster, adding a very 
little tarragon vinegar, or better still, one teaspoon chopped 
tarragon and put away to stiffen in a very cold place. When 
set take off the papers carefully, garnish with pounded coral or 
browned crumbs. 

Stewed Lobster, No. 1. 

Take the meat of two medium lobsters cut in dice, season 
with salt as needed, one half saltspoon cayenne, and one half 
lemon. Make a white sauce, p. 39, add another tablespoon but- 
ter and the seasoned lobster; let it simmer ten minutes and 

serve hot. ,, . _ . . ... 

Stewed Lobster No. 2. 

(En Chevreuse). One ounce butter boiling hot, one small 
onion sliced thin, cook together until slightly yellow, then add 
one and one-half pounds diced lobster and a glass of any good 
red wine. Season with salt, pepper and a dust of nutmeg, add 
one pint veloute sauce and simmer for ten minutes. Serve in 
table shells (it will fill six) lay three slices of truffle on each and 
one teaspoon of good bechamel. This is very nice prepared in 
a chafing-dish and served on squares of buttered toast. Tinned 
lobster will answer if it is laid on a platter to air for an hour 
before using. 

Lobster, Maryland Style. 

Cut cooked lobsters in slices one-quarter inch in thickness, 
saute in fresh butter, moisten with cream, let simmer for a few 
minutes and before serving thicken the lobster with cooked 
yolks of eggs, crushed with double the amount of butter, then 
press through a fine sieve, seasoning with red and white pep- 
per, and add a little good sherry. 

Deviled Lobster. 

Two cups finely diced lobster meat, salt and cayenne to taste, 
yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, one tablespoon chopped parsley, 
a speck of nutmeg, one cup of thick cream sauce. Add lobster, 
eggs mashed fine, parsley and seasoning to the sauce while it is 
hot. Fill the sections of lobster shell and dust with buttered 
cracker crumbs. Brown in the hottest kind of an oven and 
serve very hot. A tablespoon of Worcestershire or mushroom 
catsup is an improvement for those who like it very highly sea- 
Deviled Roasted Lobster. 

Kill the lobster according to directions above; split in two 
lengthwise and range it on a baking pan; season with salt 
and cayenne and pour over some melted butter. Bake it in a 
ii ii ulerateoven for twenty minutes, cover over with maitre d'hStel 
butter containing plenty of diluted mustard. Serve on a very 
hot dish, break the shells with pinchers made for this purpose, 
and remove the meat, or serve the shells on the plates. 






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33 



Soft Shell Crabs. 

Lift each point of the back shell and remove the spongy 
substance found beneath it, taking care to scrape and cutaway 
every bit. Turn the crab on its back and remove the semi-cir- 
cular piece of dark, soft shell called the "apron" or "flap" and 
more of the same spongy substance lying under it. Wash in 
cold water and dry carefully on a towel. Season with salt and 
pepper, dip in egg and roll in crumbs. Fry about three minutes 
in very hot fat, putting in only two at a time, as they should be 
cold when prepared. Serve with Tartar sauce. 

Thomas J. Murrey in his little bonk on "Oysters and Fish" 
says they should be only seasoned with llour, but most people 
enjoy the crisp and savory crumbs. 

Broiled Crabs. 

Prepare as above, but cook in a double broiler over clear, hot 
coals 'or eight to ten minutes. Serve with melted butter and 
lenum juice poured over. 

Deviled Crabs, No. 1. 

One dozen fresh crabs boiled and pickled: quarter of a pound 
of fresh butter, one small teaspoon of mustard powder, cayenne 
pepper and salt to taste. Put the meat into a bowl and mix 
carefully with it an equal quantity of fine bread crumbs. 
Work the butter to a light cream, mix the mustard well with 
it, then stir in very carefully, a handful at a time, the mixed 
crabs and crumbs. Season to taste with cayenne pepper and 
salt, fill the crab shells with the mixture, sprinkle bread crumbs 
over the tops, put three small pieces of butter upon the top of 
each and brown them quickly in a hot oven. They will puff in 
, baking and will be found very nice. 

Deviled Crabs. No. 2. 

Pick the meat from fifty boiled hard-shelled crabs, run it 
lightlv through the fingers into a large bowl, picking out every 
bit of shell. Add a half pint of Mayonaise and mix well. 
Divide this mixture into one dozen shells, sprinkle buttered 
cracker crumbs thickly over the top, put a dot of butter on each 
and bake in a hot oven. 

Baked Crabs. 

After cleaning and seasoning dip them into melted butter 
and sprinkle thickly with grated bread crumbs. Range on a 
dripping-pan and set into an intensely hot oven for about five 
minutes. Serve with horseradish cream sauce. 

Oyster Crab. 

This is a distinct species and its piquant flavor entitles it to 
a high place in the regard of epicures. Lay a scant tablespoon 
of them on a crisp leaf of lettuce, with a teaspoon of Mayon- 
naise for a dainty morsel at a ladies' luncheon. 

Crabs, St. Laurent. 

The meat of half a dozen crabs cut fine. One pint of 
bechamel sauce, half a glass of white wine, a pinch of cayenne, 
half a teaspoon of salt and three tablespoons of Parmesan 
cheese grated. Boil all together for ten minutes. Butter six 
rounds of toast. Spread the crab evenly on each, set in a hot 
t oven for five minutes and serve garnished with parsley. This 
is nice to serve as a fish course between a vegetable soup, 
and a plain roast. 

Terrapin Stew (Baltimore Style.) 

Boil the turtle forty-five minutes or until the head will pull 
off easily. Remove the thin grey skin and under shell, cut out 
the gall most carefully. Dice the whole remainder and put 
into a stew pan holding not less than two quarts. 

1 Add 2 ounces port wine. 

1 teaspoon salt. 2 ounces sherry. 
\ teaspoon cayenne. 6 ounces cream. 

2 tablespoons Worcestershire. 

I Dredge very well with flour and boil two minutes. Add one- 
quarter pound butter and serve as soon as melted. 

Snapping Turtle. 

1 Snapping turtle was once peculiar to Philadelphia, but its 
line excellence and greater abundance leads to its being 
tften substituted for the expensive diamond-back. The coiri- 
laon red-legs are also very good. 






Green Turtle. 

These sea-monsters vary in weight from 25 to 500 pounds and 
in price from 30 to 50 cents per pound. They are so immense 
that they can rarely be served in a private house unless, as 
sometimes happens, a fish-monger can secure a few pounds 
from some of his customers among the larger hotels. In thai 
case simmer the meat lor twenty minutes in a strong tn 
stock, well flavored with vegetables and herbs, allowing a pound 
of meat to each quart of stock. Put shells and fins into another 
quart of stock and simmer closely covered for an hour or till 
the bones will slip easily. Remove the bones and cut. all the 
meat in small squares. Mix the whole and add moreseasoning 
if needed. Thicken three quarts of soup with four ounces of 
flour browned in butter; boil half and skim well; add half a pint 
of sherry wine, a gill of port wine, let it boil up once and serve 
with slices of pared lemon on a plate. 

Turtle Steaks. 

Cut slices about one-half inch thick from what is known as 
the "veal," the thick, fleshy portion of green turtle. Rub them 
well with oil, lemon juice, pepper and a little salt, and let t 
stand for at least an hour before cooking. Broil like steak, 
cooking very thoroughly. 

(A la Provencale). Tie four ounces of hard wood ashes in a 
cloth and boil them in a quart of water fifteen minutes. Drop 
into this water, while boilinghot, three dozen well-washed snails; 
let them boil fifteen minutes; try one to see if it will slip from the 
shell, if not boil a minute longer. Drain and take from the 
shells. Put a tablespoon of oil in a sauce-pan on the stove and 
when hot add six mushrooms cut fine, six stalks of parsley, three 
shallots and one clove of garlic, all chopped fine; season with 
salt, red pepper and a dust of nutmeg; sprinkle over one table- 
spoon of flour, three gills of white wine, and as soon as the 
sauce boils add the snails; as soon as it boils draw to one side 
and thicken with three egg yolks beaten with one tablespoon 
of milk. Put a little sauce in each shell, drop in a snail, a little 
more sauce, cover with buttered crumbs, set in the oven for ten 
minutes and serve hot,— Pierre Caron. 

Mussels. 

(A la Mariniere). Take three dozen mussels in their shells, 
free them from dirt and weeds; steam them three or four min- 
utes in a covered stew-pan, shaking them frequently. When 
the shells open drain them and remove one shell, leaving the 
mussel in the other. Serve with them the following sauce in a 
bowl. Chop fine two shallots, put in a saucepan with one table- 
spoon of vinegar, reduce one-half, add a teaspoon of chervil 
and tarragon chopped fine; boil one minute, add one-half pint 
of allemand sauce and a gill of sherry. 

Shrimp. 

Shrimps are caught in immense quantities along the sea- 
shore from early spring till late autumn, but are chiefly used 
for bait and for lunches for the parties of children who have 
unlimited time to pick them from their paper-like shells. If 
one can take the trouble to pick them out, they are really more 
delicate in fiber and finer flavored than their larger cousins 
from the Gulf. The dainty pink morsels make an appropriate 
and appetizing garnish for boiled fish of all kinds, and added 
to any sauce for fish they are more satisfactory than lobster, 
whose coarser flavor often dominates the fish it'is intended to 
complement. As a curry, or deviled, or salad, or in a bisque, 
they are always good. They may be prepared by any of the 
formulas already given for lobsters or crabs, remembering that 
the seasoning should be less heavy as the flavor of shrimp is 
more delicate. Tinned shrimps should always be rinsed in 
lightly salted water and well drained and aired before they are 
used. 

Crawfish. 

Crawfish are inhabitants of fresh water streams. They have 
a striking resemblance to lobster in every respect, and are 
largely used by caterers for garnishes, sauces, salads, etc. 
Those that come from Milwaukee have a high reputation in 
New York and other markets. 

Crawfish Bordelaise. 

For this dish either crawfish or fresh boiled lobster may be 
used. Cut half a small carrot into bits and mince a small 
onion fine, cooking bothfor a fewminutes in a spoon of butter. 
Add a glass of red wine and then a pound and a half of craw- 
fish or lobster meat, and half a piut of cream sauce, with a 
very little nutmeg, a half teaspoon of salt and pinch of 
cayenne pepper. Boil up once and serve very hot. — "The Epi- 
cure." 



34 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



ENTREES. 

"A maxim, too, that must not be forgot, 
Whatever be your dinner, 'serve it hot,' 
Your fine ragouts, like epigrams, require 
A little salt— but to be full of fire." 



Fillet of Beef. 



— The Banquet, 



When larded and roasted as given on page II, is frequently 
served as an entree with a mushroom, Spanish, iinanciere or 
Chateaubriand sauce poured around it. 

Fillet of Beef a la Bearnaise. 

Cut little steaks from the tenderloin, trim to uniform shape 
and size, season rather more than for a plain steak and serve 
with Bearnaise sauce. With a touch of onion flavor added and 
Chateaubriand sauce, they are called Fillet Steaks a la 
Chdteaubriand. 

Grenadins of Fillet of Beef. 

Cut slices as above, lard each on one side with strips of pork not 
bigger than a match. Season with pepper, salt and soft butter 
and lay on a rack in a dripping-pan. Roast in a fiercely hot 
oven about eight minutes, basting once with two tablespoons 
of madeira and three of glaze heated together. Range on a 
hot dish and serve with mushroom sauce. 

Little Fillets with Marrow. 

Trim six small slices as before and saute for three minutes on 
each side. Range on a hot dish, pour a pint of hot madeira 
sauce over with six drops of tarragon vinegar and eighteen 
round slices of marrow. Let boil once only, then pour the 
sauce around the dish, dressing the marrow on top of the fillets 
and serve. 

Tenderloin Pique a la Sevignc. 

Trim.lard and season a small fillet (four pounds is enough ) and 
roast in a very hot oven about ten minutes; then set it aside to 
cool and afterwards mask it with a chicken forcemeat; sprinkle 
with fresh bread crumbs, baste with three tablespoons of fresh 
butter and roast thirty-five minutes. Pour over one-half pint 
madeira sauce and garnish with tiny patties filled with puree of 
spinach highly seasoned with butter and meat glaze. 

Fillet of Beef a la Chipolata. 

No. 1. Take three pounds of fillet; the roll cut from a small 
rib roast will do; rub with flour and brown all over on a brisk 
fire in two ounces of butter; drain off the fat, add one pint beef 
broth, one-half pint white wine, one ladle tomato sauce, one 
tablespoon each carrot and onion, some parsley and one clove 
of garlic. Cover and simmer for two hours or until tender; 
drain and trim the beef, strain the gravy, take off the fat and 
reduce with one-half pint Spanish sauce. Serve with Chipolata 
garnish. 

No. 2. Take the same amount of beef, trim and tie into 
shape and steep it for two days in the following marinade: 
One and a half cups claret, one-half cup water, one tablespoon 
each chopped carrot and onion, twenty peppercorns and a bit 
of bay leaf with one teaspoon salt. Boil for five minutes, cool 
and pour over the beef. Drain dry, brown lightly and braise as 
usual, forty-five minutes if it is the true fillet, two hours or 
more if the rib roll is used. The braising stock may be used to 
make a brown sauce for it. Serve with Chipolata garnish. 

Beef Steak, Bohemian Sauce. 

Trim, season and broil rather rare two porterhouse steaks; 
put on hot platter with a little butter and serve Bohemian 
sauce, p. 45, in a sauce bowl. 

Beef steak seasoned, buttered, sprinkled with bread crumbs, 
mixed with chopped olives and parsley, then broiled rare and 
dressed with a maitre d'hotel sauce, mingled with two table- 
spoons beef extract is called a la Soyer. 

Peel two cucumbers, cut in four lengthwise; if overgrown 
trim off the seeds, cut in slices; there should be one pint of this 
and one pint sliced onion; blanch, drain and simmer till tender, 
salt and cayenne to taste; drain and simmer till tender in one 
pint good gravy and pour over broiled steak when ready to 
serve; or pour the raw vegetables over a pan broiled steak as 
soon as browned and simmer. This is an excellent dish for 
every day use. If the vegetables, after being drained, are fried 
a light brown in butter (a dust of sugar willhelp) then simmered 
till tender in one cup poivrade sauce and served around two 
good porterhouse steaks it will be an elegant entree known as 
Steak a la Rosny. 



Boiled Marrow Bones. 

Tie up in a cloth eight marrow bones, neatly trimmed and of 
about four inches long, boil an hour, remove the cloth and 
serve them on toast, a doyly neatly arranged about each. — 
Pierre Caron. 

Broiled Marrow Bones. 

Prepare as above, but take from the water in forty-five 
minutes and set under a gas broiler to finish, turning so that 
the ends may brown. By rapping smartly on the side of the 
bone the marrow may be shaken out on the toast, where it 
should be well sprinkled with salt and cayenne and set into a 
hot oven for two minutes before serving, 

Roasted Marrow Bones. 

Parboil as before, taking up when about half done; seal the 
ends with a stiff paste made with flour and water and bake in a 
very hot oven from thirty to forty minutes. Serve on toast 
that has been moistened with Tartar sauce. Wrap each one in 
a thickly folded doyly and there must be narrow spoons with 
long handles to scoop it from the bone. It is a pity that this 
delicious and wholesome dish is not more frequently seen on 
our tables. Marrow Toagt> 

Cut thin and parboil one-half pound of beef marrow. Spread 
it on toast and cook five minutes in a brisk oven. Serve plain 
or with Spanish sauce. 

South Carolina Rice Pie. 

Take one quart cold cooked meat, if beef or veal allow one- 
fourth fat, if mutton trim away all fat and substitute two 
ounces butter; the meat should be cut in shavings and lightly 
measured. Chop fine one medium sized onion, one large Irish 
potato, one ounce fat salt pork, blanch, drain and fry gently to 
a light yellow, put in the meat, with salt and pepper and sweet 
herbs or spice to taste, let it heat through, stirring carefully, 
if the meat was tough in the first case add one pint stock and 
simmer till tender. Meanwhile cook one cup good rice — p. 53 
— season it with one cup stewed and strained tomato, one ounce 
of butter and two hard boiled eggs sliced; turn the hashed 
meat into a buttered baking dish, place the rice over; handle 
carefully so as not to crush the rice or break up the egg-, cut 
two more eggs in four slices each and press them into the rice 
on top; put a bean of butter on each and set in a moderate 
oven for one-half hour. Fold a napkin around the dish if not 
a regular baker. Do not let the meat get too dry ; if it did not 
need the simmering add cold gravy, freed from all fat, and 
water enough to moisten well. "A thorough southern dish, 
and a great favorite in our rice country." Make chicken and 
rice pie in the same way, but leave out the potato; one cup rich 
milk may be substituted for the tomato.— Mrs. W. P. Fergu- 
son, Columbia, S. C. 

Baltimore Meat Pie. 

Pare three pints of potatoes, cover them with hot water and 
let them simmer till clone. Mash them and add a little cream 
and salt. Spread in the style of a paste in a dish. Place on 
thin slices of underdone meat, either beef, mutton, veal or 
chicken. Lay them in thickly, pour over them some gravy and 
a wineglass of catsup. Then cover thick with mashed potatoes 
and bake moderately about fifty minutes. 

Hash. 

"A good hash has merits unknown to the meat in its first 
cooking. Mind you, I say a good one. It must be scientifically 
constructed. There must be a spark of genius, but no reckless- 
ness, which is counted to go with genius. On the contrary, 
true genius is half patience, and that counts in hash or any- 
thing else." The best meat for a hash is from a stew or the 
sides of a la mode beef, though corned beef is excellent and 
any scraps of cold meat can be used if care be taken to first 
simmer till tender all tough bits. Mince evenly, but not too 
line, allowing about one-quarter fat meat; add an equal bulk of 
chopped potatoes, freshly cooked are best, but cold ones will 
do, if more convenient. Mix well together and season with 
salt and pepper. Put into a sautoir one cup of stock or beef 
or veal gravy, adding enough hot water to make one cup for 
each pint of meat and potato, one teaspoon butter and the 
meat as soon as the stock boils. Stir only enough to mix well, 
then let stand on a moderately hot fire till a brown crust has 
formed on the bottom. Fold over and turn out like an 
omelet and serve hot. A tepid hash is an abomination. 

Baked Hash. 

Prepare like either of the proceeding, adding more season- 
ing, onion, catsup, Worcestershire sauce, etc., and one raw egg. 
Pack into a well-buttered baking dish and bake till hot through 
and well-browned. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



35 



Hash, (English Style.) 

Chop the meat rather coarsely, season with onion and catsup, 
salt and pepper, and simmer a few minutes in a good gravy. 
Serve on toast or in a deep platter garnishing with toast. 

Mutton and Veal Hashes. 

Mutton and veal hashes are much improved by the addition 
of curry, a few oysters or even a half cup of oyster liquor left 
from some other dish. 

Beef Rolls or Olives, No. 1. 

One and a half pounds of round steak cut in quarter inch 
slices, trim into six pieces about three by four inches; pound 
carefully not to make holes in them. Cover with the follow- 
ing stuffing: Chop two ounces beef suet very line and then 
the trimmings of the beef, there should be about eight ounces 
or one cup when done; mix well with one cup or four ounces 
stale bread grated, season with one teaspoon salt, one saltspoon 
pepper, a speck of nutmeg and two or three grates of lemon 
peel; moisten with one beaten egg; it may need a spoonful or 
so of stock. Divide this into six portions, form them into 
rolls and wrap each one in a piece of the beef; make a half 
dozen turns of soft twine or cotton yarn about the rolls, but do 
not draw it tight enough to mark them; do not trouble to tie, 
just twist the ends of the string with wet fingers. Place these 
rolls in a stewpan with one pint brown sauce and stew gently 
for three quarters of an hour. Serve with potato baked or 
fried in rather thick slices. 

Westphalia Loaves. 

Mix a quarter of a pound of grated ham with one pound of 
mashed potatoes well beaten until quite light and add a little 
butter, cream and two eggs, but do not get too moist. Make 
into small ball and fry with a little lard to a light brown. 
Serve with a brown, thick gravy. Garnish with fried parsley. 
Use more ham if liked, or add chopped parsley. 

Ragout of Mutton. 

Slice thinly two small turnips and two onions, brown them 
with two ounces butter or dripping, dredging in a tablespoon 
of Hour, a teaspoon of sugar, and stirring to get an even brown. 
Cut six small but rather thick chops from a cooked loin or neck 
or cut square pieces from a breast of mutton that has been 
boiled, and pressed till cold; roll them in seasoned flour, skim 
out the vegetables and brown the meat in the same fat. Re- 
turn the vegetables to the pan, add one half pint stock, season 
to taste, cover closely and simmer till tender. This ragout 
may be made with green peas in season; and they should al- 
ways be used for a Lamb Ragout. 

Ox-Palates, 

Be sure that they are delivered as fresh as possible as they 
soon acquire a disagreeable flavor. Soak and wash in several 
waters, then boil five minutes, cool, drain and scrape off the 
white horny skin. Cut six of them in halves and cook gently 
for two hours, or till tender, in two quarts of white broth with 
a piece of salt pork skin or a bone of ham or bacon, a bunch 
of parsley and a small onion stuck with three cloves. Drain, 
trim all to the same shape and they are ready to serve plain or 
as a basis for several more elaborate dishes as follows: 

Breaded. 

Marinate the cooked palates over night in lemon-juice, salad 
oil, pepper and salt well rubbed in. Dry in a soft cloth, bread 
and fry like croquettes. Serve with tomato sauce. 

Broiled, 

Cut in pretty strips for serving; season with salt, pepper and 
tarragon vinegar, and dip first in melted butter, then in fine 
bread crumbs. Broil a delicate brown over very hot coals. 
Serve with mushroom sauce. 

Curried. 

Cut in triangles and follow directions for white curry of 
chicken. 

A la Financiefe. 

Spread each split with a thin layer of quenelle meat (veal will 
do) adding a dust of tine herbs. Roll each one tightly in but- 
tered paper and place in a sautoir, cover with well seasoned 
stock and simmer twenty minutes. Lift from the papers and 
cover closely while reducing the stock to a demi-glaze. Roll 
each piece in it and range against a mound of broiled mush- 
rooms or a mixture of sweetbreads, truffles, mushrooms, olives, 
quenelles and chicken livers, known as Financieie ragout; in 
either case serve with Financieie sauce. 



Au Gratin. 
Beat up the yolks of two eggs well and mix them with one- 
half a pepperspoon of mace, a little salt and pepper, one minced 
shallot, a sprig of parsley, three button mushrooms chopped 
line and a slice of bam scraped to a pulp. Spread this f 01 
meat over three palates prepared and split as before, fold to- 
gether and fasten with a bird skewer. Cover with well but- 
tered and seasoned bread crumbs and bake in a moderateh 
oven half an hour, basting with butter and hot water. Serve 
with plain tomato sauce. 

Fricandcau of Veal with Sorrel. 

Cut a thick slice of three pounds from the upper side of a 
leg of veal, remove sinews and lard with a medium sized 
needle. Place it in a sautoir in which there are already a half 
dozen two inch square pieces of pork skin, fat side down, one 
tablespoon each chopped onion and carrot and a bunch of 
sweet herbs. Season with a scant tablespoon salt, cover with a 
buttered paper and let it color slightly. Add a half pint white 
broth and cook one hour in the oven, basting five times. The 
French cooks often use one-half pint puree of sorrel; but it is 
rarely seeii in American markets; perhaps the best way to bring 
it is to ask frequently for it, its mild acid makes it most appro- 
priate for veal; a good substitute is spinach served with slices 
of lemon. 

Grenadins of Veal, 

Cut into six pieces two pounds of lean veal from the leg, 
pull out the sinews and set seven tiny lardoons in three rows 
on each slice. Fry some bits of salt pork until there are three 
tablespoons of fat in the pan, cook to a pale yellow one small 
onion sliced, brown the grenadins for six minutes. Season 
with a scant tablespoon salt and one gill of white broth. Set 
the sautoir in the oven and cover with a buttered paper. Cook 
thirty minutes or less if they take a good color. Put a half 
pint puree of green peas on the dish, lay the grenadins on top 
and strain the gravy over all. The Chipolata garnish may be 
used with this dish and gives it its name, or bouchees filled 
with Spinach au jus, when they are called Grenadins a la Sevigne 

Veal Cutlets Broiled. 

Cut six even cutlets from a loin, flatten lightly, season with 
pepper, salt and one tablespoon salad oil, turning them several 
times. Broil over a rather slow fire eight minutes for each 
side, place on a hot dish, spread with one ounce rnaitre d hotel 
butter and serve at once. 

Veal cutlets pan broiled and served with some kind of sauce 
or garnish are known in French cookery as escalops. Small, 
even slices should be cut not more than one-half inch thick; 
they may be treated according to taste and the other parts of 
the"bill of fare: lightly seasoned and served with a plain sauce 
or some bland puree like spinach, chicory or cucumber, or 
highly seasoned with onion, shallot, garlic, (not all at once) or 
mushrooms. Finish with Spanish or some high flavored brown 
sauce and garnish with stuffed peppers or something piquant. 

Veal Cutlets. 

Take two pounds veal ; the small pieces cut from the rum p bone 
are good where slices cannot be had. Chop several times in 
a machine; add two ounces of raw, finely chopped veal suet; 
season with one tablespoon salt, one-half teaspoon pepper and 
one fourth teaspoon nutmeg; mix well with one half cup good 
cream, one chopped shallot and two raw eggs. Shape in six 
pieces like chops. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and saute in 
two ounces butter, four minutes on each side; the fire should 
be quick enough to brown well, but not scorch. Serve with a 
gill of any kind of sauce. 

Veal Cutlets a la Milanaise. 

Trim six veal cutlets, season with salt and pepper, dip in egg 
diluted with one tablespoon salad oil, drain, dip in grated Par- 
mesan and then in fresh bread crumbs; flatten them and saute 
in six ounce:, of clarified butter, giving them five minutes on 
each side. Serve with one cup garnishing Milauaise. 

Veal Cutlets with Tomato Sauce. 

Prepare six cutlets as in the preceding, but leave out the 
cheese ; cook as described and serve with a half pint tomato 
sauce. 

Calf's Brain Breaded. 

Separate the two lobes of the brain with a knife, soak them 
in cold water with a little salt for one hour; then pour away 
water and cover with hot water, clean and skin them; then dip 
in egg and milk, roll in bread crumbs and fry slowly in deep hot 
fat; serve tomato sauce with it. 



36 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Brains au Beurre Noir. 

Prepare as for frying. Lay them on a hot platter and pour 
over them black butter sauce, p. 45, 

Ragout of 31utton. 

Cut into dice one pint of cold roasted or boiled mutton. If 
boiled, dredge it with flour and brown in butter. Add one 
small onion cut fine, half a cup of diced turnip, and one-fourth 
cup of grated carrot. Salt and pepper to taste. Cover with 
boiling water and simmer till tender. Put the bones and 
trimming into another stew-pan, cover with cold water, and 
let them simmer until the liquor is reduced one-half. Then 
strain it and add the liquor to the ragout. When the meat is 
tender remove the fat, add a tablespoon of brown roux and a 
teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce or two tablespoons of wine 
or half a cup of currant jelly. 

Cutlets Served in Paper. 

Fold and cut half-sheets of thick white paper, about the size 
of commercial note, so that when opened they will be heart- 
shaped. Dip them in melted butter, and set aside. After trim- 
ming all the fat from lamb or mutton chops, season them with 
pepper and salt. Put three table-spoons of butter in the 
frying-pan, and when melted, lay in the chops, and cook slowly 
for fifteen minutes. Add one teaspoon of finely chopped 
parsley, one teaspoon of lemon juice, and one table-spoon 
of Halford sauce. Dredge with one heaping table-spoon of 
flour, and cook quickly five minutes longer. Take up the cut- 
lets, and add to the sauce in the pan four table-spoons of 
glaze and four of water. Stir until the glaze is melted and set 
away to cool. When the sauce is cold, spread it on the cutlets. 
Now place these, one by one, on one side of the papers, having 
the bones turned toward the centre. Fold the papers and care- 
fully turn in the edges. When all are done, place them in a 
pan, and put into a moderate oven for ten minutes; then place 
them in a circle, and fill the centre of the dish with thin fried, 
or French fried potatoes. Serve very hot. The quantities given 
above are for six cutlets. 

Chicken a la Hollandaise. 

Take out the breast bone of a large young fowl, and fill up 
the space with a force meat of pati de foie gras. Make a bat- 
ter as for fritters, and when the fowl has roasted half its time 
pour the batter over, and, when dry, pour more, until it is 
thickly coated and of a nice brown color. Cut up into neat 
pieces as for fricassee, and serve with melted butter and lemon 
quarters. 

Chicken Shortcake. 

Make one-half the rule for biscuit (see p. 58), but add one 
large teaspoon butter or mix with creamy milk, roll to fit an 
eight inch cake tin and bake in a quick oven. When done 
pull, not cut, it apart, and fill with one pint of creamed chicken. 

Stuffed Chicken Legs (Cantons de Rouen). 

After removing the fillets from chickens, the legs may be 
removed, leaving on them as much of the skin as is convenient. 
Bone them carefully and fill them with any good stuffing or 
force meat that is convenient. Wrap the' extra breadth of 
skin about them and, after trimming into compact shape, sew 
the edges with a few deep stitches. Lay them on a bed of 
vegetables in a small braising pan to cook for one hour. Mean- 
time simmer the bones and trimmings of the carcasses to 
make one and one-half pints stock. Finish the chickens with 
the cover removed to brown them well, and send to the table 
with a white Bechamel sauce. 

Chaud-Froid of Chicken. 

Cut a cold boiled chicken carefully into smooth joints, 
removing the skin. Mask each piece with Bechamel sauce, 
and arrange in a ring on a bed of lettuce. Mix sliced cucum- 
ber, diced beets and chopped tarragon with the heart-leaves of 
the lettuce and heap them in the center. Served either with or 
without mayonnaise. 

Chicken Terrapin. 

Put in the chafing-dish the dark meat of cold chicken, tur- 
key or grouse, cut in small slices with half a pint of cream or 
stock; and when it comes to- a boil stir in the following mix- 
ture: two tablespoons of butter rubbed into a smooth paste 
with a tablespoon of flour and the yolk of three eggs, a tea- 
spoon of dry mustard, a little cayenne pepper and salt, all 
mixed with a little cream or stock. Let it simmer a few min- 
utes (not boil) and when ready to serve stir in a large wineglass 
of Madeira. 



Chicken Souffle. 

One pint of cold chicken chopped very fine. Melt one table- 
spoon of butter in a saucepan, and add one of flour and gradually 
a pint of hot milk or stock, stirring to smooth cream. Add 
to this a teaspoon of chopped parsley, half a cup of bread 
crumbs, a pinch of pepper, a teaspoon of salt, and the chicken, 
with the yolks of four eggs. Last, add the whites beaten to a 
stiff froth and turn into a buttered dish. Bake in a quick 
oven half an hour and serve at once. 

Coquilles of Chicken, English Fashion. 

Fill six table-shells with a thick salpicon of chicken, mush- 
rooms and truffies. Sprinkle the tops with grated bread crumbs 
well buttered. Bake a handsome brown in a very hot oyen. 
Serve on a folded napkin. 

Chicken Curry. 

Prepare a three or four pound chicken as for fricassee (see 
page 23). Brown lightly in butter and move to a stewpan. Fry 
a thinly-sliced onion in the same pan and make a roux with one 
large tablespoon flour, one teaspoon sugar and one teaspoon 
curry powder (more if it is liked very hot) and one pint water. 
Add one-half cup chopped sour apple, salt and pepper; pour 
this sauce over the chicken arid simmer till tender. Add one 
cup of hot cream. Serve with boiled rice. (See page 53.) 

Indian Curry. 

Proceed as before and when the chicken is browned mix dry 
one teaspoon sugar and one of curry powder, one tablespoon 
flour and sift over the meat. Stir till the meat is thoroughly 
coated with the powder; add two or three sour apples cut in 
eighths but neither cored nor peeled, the juice of one-half 
lemon and two ounces of raisins; add one pint hot water, cover 
closely and simmer one hour. More curry and lemon may be 
used if liked, salt to taste. — Mrs. James Farish, Tar- 
mouth, N. 8. 

White Curry. 

One fowl, one onion, two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons 
curry powder, two ounces sweet almonds, one-half teaspoon 
salt, one-half tablespoon lemon juice, one-half pint water. 
Cook the sliced onion in the butter till soft, but do not brown. 
Then add the fowl cut in very small pieces ready for serving. 
Sprinkle over the curry powder (most people would prefer half 
the quantity) and stir over the fire for five minutes. Blanch 
the almonds and pound them with a little water. (See page 52 ) 
When they are quite fine, put the remainder of the water to 
them and grind them well. Strain this through a strong strainer 
cloth, pressing hard. It should, come through looking like milk. 
Add this with salt to the fowl and simmer till tender; put in 
lemon juice just before serving. This is excellent made with 
veal. Grated cocoanut may take the place of almonds. Serve 
with rice. An "Ida" grater is better than pounding for 
almonds, cocoanut, etc. 

Kebob Curry. 

Two pounds of tender beef, mutton or veal cut in slices one- 
half inch thick and again one and a half inch square. Peel and 
slice thickly two or three onions and three pieces of green gin- 
ger; arrange them on skewers, putting two bits of meat, one 
of ginger, one of onion, and repeat until all are used; brown in 
two ounces of butter, sprinkle over two tablespoons curry pow- 
der (one is enough for most people), cook gently and stir for 
five minutes, add one-half pint stock, salt if needed. Simmer, 
closely covered, until tender, from forty-five minutes to an hour 
and a half; just before serving add the juice of one-half lemon. 
This is quite enough for ten people. 

Dry Curry. 

Proceed as before, leaving out the skewers, the ginger and 
half the lemon; brown the meat in the butter and sprinkle the 
curry; stir over the fire five minutes, add two tablespoons 
chopped gherkins, one dessert spoon Chutney; cover closely 
and cook on a very slow fire; add lemon just before serving. 
Serve with soft boiled rice: one cup rice to three of water, with 
one teaspoon salt; boil fast for fifteen minutes, then set back 
and watch it; lift often with fork to make sure it does not 
stick. Pile high in the middle of platter and serve the curry 
as a border. Fish may be treated in the same way, but needs 
less cooking— fifteen to thirty minutes, according to the kind of 
fish. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



37 



Turkey Wings with Chestnut Puree. 

Take out the two main bones from eight wings, stuff them 
with a pound of forcemeat made with lean ana fat pork in 
equal quantity and well seasoned with salt and pepper. Put 
them in a buttered stew pan with a little parsley, a quart of 
white broth aDd three thin slices of fat pork, cover and cook 
gently for ail hour; drain and press between two sheets with 
a light weight on top; strain and free the gravy from fat, 
reduce to a demi-glaze with a gill of Spanish sauce, trim the 
wings neatly and put them in the sauce. They are better to 
stand a half hour or more, but should be covered and not 
allowed to boil. At serving time, spread a pint of chestnut 
puree in an entree dish, arrange the wings in a circle, alternat- 
ing with two inch croutons of fried white bread; rill the center 
with more puree, pour the sauce over all and serve. — D&liie. 

Turkey Giblets, with Turnips. 

Take the giblets— necks, pinions, gizzards and hearts of two 
turkeys; reserve the livers for other use; cleanse, soak an hour 
in salted water, wipe them dry, cut in morsels and put in a 
stew pan with two ounces of butter and four ounces of salt 
pork diced; fry a little, add the giblets, stir, and fry again until 
well browned; sprinkle over two tablespoons flour, mix well, 
dilute with one pint of thin stock and stir until blended. 
Season with salt, pepper, a few sprigs of parsley and a slip of 
lemon peel. When it boils set back to simmer until nearly 
done, then add the sliced livers and turnips. Take four turnips 
of a size that when pared and quartered the pieces will be 
the size of an egg. Parboil ten minutes, drain, dry, brown 
quickly in butter in a large frying pan with a teaspoon of 
sugar sprinkled over; cook slowly with the giblets for fifteen 
minutes, then let them stand covered for the sauce to season 
the turnips; skim off the fat, take out the parsley, dish the 
giblets in a mound with the turnips for a border, pour the 
sauce over and serve. — BiliU. 

Rissoles. 

Any kind of delicate meat or fish may be used for them 
with puff paste. Careme recommends Brioche paste. It may 
well be used, if at hand, or a little might be laid aside for this 
purpose when it is baked, but it takes so long to prepare that 
it is hardly worth while unless one requires a great number of 
Rissoles. When oysters are used they must first be treated as 
directed, see p. 31. With care in preparation and skill in flavor- 
ing a great variety of appetizing dainties may be made from 
remnants of pastry and game. For an illustration take Chicken 
Rissoles. 

One cup cold chicken (roast is best) cut in small dice, two 
tablespoons minced fresh mushrooms; make a white sauce 
with one-half cup milk, one tablespoon flour and two of butter; 
season with a scant teaspoon of salt and one pepper-spoon 
pepper, add the meat and mushroom, let it cook one minute 
and set away to cool. Take one-fourth the rule for puff paste 
(see p. 62), roll one-eighth inch thick and cut twelve four-inch 
rounds; divide the chicken paste into twelve parts and put one 
on each round of paste a little to one side of the center, flatten 
it slightly, wet the rim of paste a little way from the edge 
with white of egg, fold the paste over and press together along 
the line of egg; add another egg to the one from which you 
used and beat with one tablespoon of milk. Dip the rissoles 
in this, taking care not to handle the edges nor to separate the 
cover. Drain them and cook in hot fat till a golden brown. 
The fat should be hotter than for doughnuts, but not so hot as 
for croquettes. Dry on paper and serve at once. This gives 
two for each of the six persons at lunch, but in a course dinner 
one is quite enough for each person. 

Bouchees. 

Are made small, about one and one-half inches in diameter 
and very deep; they are served hot, filled with very highly sea- 
soned meat or shell-fish, dressed with mayonnaise or sauce tar- 
tare. The tilling may be either hot or cold. These are most 
frequently filled with a salpicon— a "mixture of poultry, game, 
fish, forcemeat, sweetbreads, ham, tongue, or foie gras together 
with mushrooms, truffles, etc. The various materials should 
be cooked separately, cut into dice, and heated in thick, brown 
or w r hite sauce, whichever is most convenient."— Cosset's Dic- 
tionary of Cooker >j. 

Aspic Jelly, No. 1. 

To three pints of clear, strong consomme 5 , add two ounces 
gelatine previously soaked in cold water, and the whites and 
shells of two eggs; whisk well together, adding more seasoning 
if needed, and one gill of light wine, or enough lemon juice or 
tarragon vinegar to make a pleasant flavor. Clear according to 
directions for clear soup, page 6. It is then ready for use in 
any way required. 



Aspic Jelly, No. 2. (Without meat.) 

H pints of water. 1 each carrot, turnip, onion. 

1 gill sherry. 1 stalk celery. 

2 tablespoons each malt, tarra- J teaspoon salt. 

gon and chilli vinegar. Chervil and parsley if at hand. 

The rind of J4 a lemon. 2 ounces gelatine. 

The white and shell of 2 eggs. 10 peppercorns or 1 inch chilli. 
Put all the ingredients except the gelatine and egg into a 
stew-pan and set over the fire till it boils, then pour it on the 
gelatine previously soaked in cold water, whisk in the egg and 
let come to the boil again; draw to one side of the fire to stand 
a few minutes and filter through a thick napkin. It is ready 
for use as soon as set. 



Matelote Nornuinde. 

Melt butter and add minced parsley and then the fish. Pour 
over it cider champagne and when nearly done adil a 
dozen or more oysters, as many clams and a few shrimp if you 
have them; then let the whole thing simmer until done.— Mrs. 
Bayard Taylor. 



Souffle' of Smoked Whitefish. 

Shred one cup fish and mix lightly with one pint mashed 
potato; adding more seasoning if needed with two tablespoons 
cream or milk. Separate yolks and whites of two eggs, beat 
each very light and fold carefully through the whole. Bake in a 
quick oven till a handsome brown. Serve at once. 



Aspic of Chicken. 

Once the rule for Aspic Jelly. 
1 hard boiled egg. 1} pints very tender cold 

3 slices cooked beet. chicken. 

3 slices cooked carrot. J pint cooked vegetables. 

i pint mayonnaise. | bunch celery. 

Einse a three pint border mold in cold water and pour in 
semi-congealed aspic to cover the bottom, set in ice water to 
become firm, and as soon as they can be laid on without sinking 
garnish with the prepared vegetables, bits of parsley and egg. 
Pour on more of the jelly and harden again. Sprinkle the bits 
of meat well with salt, pepper and celery salt and mix with 
them some of the cool aspic. As soon as the vegetables are 
firmly bedded in their layer fill the mold nearly to the top with 
the chicken, pour over more liquid aspic to make sure that every 
crevice is filled, and set to cool again. Lastly fill brim full with 
aspic and set on ice for ten or twelve hours. At serving time 
turn on a flat dish, fill the center with the celery finely shaved 
and dressed with the mayonnaise. Garnish with delicate celery 
leaves, laying a star of red beet on each. 



Patty Cases. 

Make either of the rules for puff paste; it will be sufficient 
for twelve large cases or twenty small ones. To shape the paste 
for patties, roll to about one-third inch in thickness and stamp 
! out with a two and one-quarter inch cutter twice as many pieces 
as you wish shells. Cut centers from one-half of them, leaving 
the rim about one-half inch wide. Lay these rings on the whole 
rounds pressing them down that they may stick together. In 
very cold weather it may be needful to wet the top of the large 
rounds near the edge to make sure that the rings shall not slip. 
To make very deep shells roll the paste about one-eighth inch 
thick and lay on two rings, or even three, but they are trouble- 
some to bake as they are apt to slip to one side. 

Patty shells should rise in ten minutes and then take about 
twenty minutes longer to bake through and brown. There will 
usually be a little soft dough in the center that should be picked 
out with a fork, taking great care not to break through the side 
or bottom crust. Large Vol au Vent cases should be rolled to 
the thickness of an inch and one-half, and they may be round 
or oval in shape. Mark out an inner line about two and one- 
half inches from the edge, and with a thin, sharp knife-blade 
(dipped first in hot water) cut from two-thirds to three-quarters 
of the way through the paste. These are much more difficult 
to bake than the smaller shells and there is alwavs much un- 
cooked paste to be removed from the center. 

The filling gives the name to the dish, and their names are 
legion. Any kind of delicate meat, game, fish or shell-fish may 
be used in connection with velvet, poulette, Bechamel, or 
supreme sauce, or for game and other dark meats a brown, 
mushroom, Boidelaise or Spanish sauce at pleasure. 



< \ 



38 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Brandade. 

Take two pounds of thick, salt codfish, pull off the skin, cut 
the fish in a half dozen pieces and soak in cold water for 
twenty-four hours, if very salt change the water twice. 
Put in cold water and cook until hot but not boiling 
twenty minutes; drain, take out the bones and crumble 
thoroughly. Put in a sauce-pan on the end of the stove 
and beat with a wooden spoon, adding very gradually 
the juice of one-half lemon and one-half pint salad oil; beat 
vigorously all the time; taste it for salt and pepper, add a little 
milk if the mixture is too thick; it should be creamy and rather 
consistent; finish with a tablespoon of oil in which have been 
fried a little garlic and chopped parsley. Heap in a vegetable 
dish and set three heart-shaped, two-inch croutons of fried 
Boston brown bread on each side. 

Casserole of Game. 

Line a casserole pan with cold butter, then with macaroni, 
cooked tender in boiling salted water. Fill it three-fourths 
full with a salmis of duck, rabbit, squirrel, or the remains of a 
game dinner. Cut all the meat from the bones in handsome 
pieces and set one side; boil the bones and chips in three pints of 
water and use it for stock to make a brown gravy ; season to 
taste; add the bits of meat and pour into the mould, and cover 
with remainder of macaroni; steam forty-five minutes and turn 
out on a platter. Serve with a part of the brown gravy that 
has been reserved. This is excellent seasoned with curry. 

Ballotin of Squab. 

Bone six tender squabs leaving on one leg; stuff with a good 
chicken forcemeat (see below) drawing the other leg and the 
wings inside and shaping into a smooth round with the one leg- 
set up nearly straight; place them in a buttered sautoire, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, cover with a buttered paper. Put in 
a hot oven for fifteen minutes and serve laid in a circle on a 
half pint of Italian sauce. Set a paper ru file on each leg. These 
are excellent served cold for a hot day's dinner, or for a lunch 
basket. 

Ravioli. 

Prepare chicken forcemeat precisely as for chicken cro- 
quettes. Have ready two sheets of noodle- paste. See p. 9 
Lay one sheet of the paste on the table, and place the little 
forcemeat balls on it, about an inch and a half apart. With 
your finger or a delicate brush moisten with water the spaces 
between the balls, and lay the top sheet of the paste over them. 
Now take a little paste wheel — or knife if you have nothing 
better — and separate by cutting each of the ravioli. They ap- 
pear like very little patties. Throw them into hard boiling 
salted water, and let them boil briskly twenty minutes without 
once removing the lid while they are boiling. Unless they are 
kept entirely closed while boiling the paste will be tough. 

As these ravioli are of themselves so rich, I usually pour over 
them stewed tomatoes, strained, and cover with grated Parme- 
san cheese. I have seen them served with Italian or Spanish 
or other rich sauces. But it has always appeared proper to me, 
not to have a rich sauce for ravioli. — Mrs. Daniels. 

Ravioli — Sardinian. 

Pick and parboil enough spinach to make a pint when boiled, 
press the water out, chop fine, put in a sauce pan with one 
ounce of butter and stir on the fire until nearly dry; add salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, a heaping tablespoon of fresh crumbs, two 
ounces parmesan, grated, one-half cup cream and three egg 
yolks; beat well on the fire for two minutes; cool, and treat as 
in No. 1. This should make two dozen. Serve in a buttered 
dish. Put a half dozen at the bottom, sprinkle with cheese and 
cover with tomato sauce. Use all the ravioli in this way and 
finish with cheese. Pour over two ounces very hot clarified 
butter and serve. 

Fillet of Flounders a la Joinville. 

Skin two flounders and cut the flesh from the bones with a 
sharp knife. There will be eight fillets, which must be rolled 
into eight little turbans and each fastened with a wooden tooth- 
pick. Put into the dish one ounce of butter and when it bubbles 
add the fish. Cover closely and let them simmer a few minutes; 
then add a small glass of cider champagne, one small onion, 
a little lemon juice, three peppercorns and a pinch of salt, and 
simmer again till done. Remove the fish, thicken the juice 
with one ounce of butter well rubbed with one tablespoon flour 
and strain it over the fillets. A very nice addition is to have 
some oysters cooked in their own juice with which to trim the 
fillets. 



Slice of Salmon Baked. 

Take two slices about three-quarters of a pound each. Rub 
both sides with this seasoning: two tablespoons oil, one table- 
spoon chopped gherkin, one shallot chopped, one anchovy 
chopped and rubbed smooth, one teaspoon chopped parsley, 
half a teaspoon of chilli vinegar. Wrap the salmon in a 
buttered paper and bake about half an hour. Serve in the 
paper. 

Whitebait. 

Is in season only during the early months of summer, and is 
so exceedingly delicate that it must be eaten as soon as possible 
after catching. Drain them carefully on a soft cloth and shake 



FORCEMEAT 

Is used so extensively in the making of garnishes and entrees 
that a cook should understand the principles of its preparation 
thoroughly. The finest kinds of forcemeat consist of raw 
meat or fish, a panada, either butter, suet or veal udder, eggs 
and seasoning. To prepare the meat or fish, take only clear 
muscle, chop it fine and pound it to a paste. Then force it 
through a wire puree sieve with a wooden vegetable-masher. 
Panada is bread and cream or milk or stock, in the proportions 
of half as much bread as liquid, cooked until a smooth paste is 
formed. If beef suet is used it must be freed from strings, 
chopped fine, and pounded with the bread. It is then rubbed 
through the puree sieve. This is not as delicate as butter or 
calf's udder and is not so often used, but is somewhat cheaper. 
Forcemeat made in this way is called "godiveau." To prepare 
calf's udder, tie it in a piece of netting and boil in the stock 
pot for one hour; cool, chop and pound, and rub through a 
pureesieve; then pound again in a mortar with the other ingre- 
dients to make sure that it is perfectly blended. Always try 
the mixture after it is finished. To do this drop a small ball of 
it into a saucepan of boiling water and set back where it will 
not boil, and cook for about ten minutes. If it cuts smooth 
and fine all through and is tender, it is all right; if it should be 
tough add two tablespoons cream, or better still, of veloute 
sauce, to each half-pint of forcemeat. If, on the contrary, the 
forcemeat ball is too soft and shrinks when cut add one well- 
beaten egg to every pint of the forcemeat. The greatest care 
must be used in cooking. If the water with which the article 
is surrounded is kept at the boiling point or a little below it, 
the forcemeat will be smooth, fine-grained and delicate. When- 
ever it is spongy and tough, be sure that the water has been 
allowed to get too hot. 

Forcemeats are used for quenelles, boudins, border-molds, 
balls to serve in soup, raised pies, timbales, etc. 

Condensed from "Kitchen Companion," by Miss Parloa: 

Chicken Forcemeat (White). 

One-half pint meat. Three tablespoons butter. 

One-half pint cream. One-half tablespoon salt. 

One gill fine stale bread crumbs. One-half blade of mace. 
Three egg whites. One-eighth teaspoon pepper. 

Prepare the meat according to general directions, by chop- 
ping, pounding and rubbing through a sieve. It will probably 
take all the (raw) white meat from two large fowls. Boil the 
bread, mace and cream together until they are cooked to a 
smooth paste, about ten minutes ; then take from the fire, add 
the butter, then the meat and seasoning. Beat whites of eggs 
well and add the last thing. Test to make the texture right 
and set away to keep cold until wanted. 

Chicken Forcemeat (Dark). 

Make as above, using only dark meat and yolks of eggs 
instead of whites. 

Oyster Forcemeat. 

One generous pint of stale bread crumbs, one dozen large 
oysters, three tablespoons butter, one teaspoon salt, one-eighth 
teaspoon of cayenne, one teaspoon minced parsley, a grate of 
nutmeg, one tablespoon lemon juice, three tablespoons oyster 
juice and yolks of two raw eggs. Chop the oysters very fine, 
add the rolled ingredients, pound to a smooth paste and rub 
through a sieve. Taste to verify seasoning. 

Game Forcemeat. 

Game forcemeat is most savory and is prepared like veal 
forcemeat. It is used to make balls to serve with game soups, 
to garnish salmis, etc. 



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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



39 



Liver Forcemeat. 

Large livers from very fat geese are the best for this. They 
can be obtained in the winter weighing from one and one-half 
to three pounds each. The small size will yield enough for 
one and one-half pints forcemeat. Cook the livers in enough 
boiling salted water to cover, letting them simmer very gently 
for about twenty-live minutes. If they do not break apart 
easily at the end of that time cook until they do. Then 
pound and rub through a sieve. Cook one-half pint bread 
crumbs in one pint rich chicken stock, season to taste with 
salt pepper and mace. Use 8 ounces butter and three eggs 
well beaten. Otherwise proceed as in chicken forcemeat. 
Chicken, turkey or veal liver can be substituted. 

Fish Forcemeat. 

Any kind of white-meated fish may be used. Use only the 
solid meat and scrape, pound and sift as in other forcemeats. 
Prepare a large half -pint and proceed as for chicken, adding a 
little cayenne and a suspicion of onion or garlic. 

Veal Forcemeat. 

Make like chicken, using one-half pint veal pulp, instead of 
chicken. 

Chicken Quenelles. 

The breast of one chicken, half a calf's brains, half a gill of 
cream, one heaping tablespoon stale bread crumbs, one ounce 
butter, one egg, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon lemon 
juice, a grate of nutmeg, a dust of pepper. Clean the brains, 
tie in a piece of cheese cloth to boil for half an hour in well 
seasoned stock. Cool and pound smooth and add to the 
chicken meat also chopped and pounded and rub both through 
a sieve. Cook the bread and cream together until a smooth 
panada, add the meat and seasoning and lastly the egg and set 
away to cool. When ready to use dip two teaspoons in hot 
water, fill one spoon with the mixture and slip from one to 
the other until it is smooth and shaped like the bowl of the 
spoon. Slide on a buttered pan. When all are formed cover 
with boiling stock and let stand where it will just not boil for 
ten minutes, keeping the dish covered with buttered pape--. 

Quenelles of Grouse. 

Quenelles of grouse or other game prepared by taking equal 
weight of meat and stale bread crumb are good served as a 
ragout. To one-half pound of meat allow a saltspoon 
each of chopped parsley and lemon rind, half an anchovy, 
boned, salt, pepper, nutmeg and half a clove of garlic. Beat 
and pound all thoroughly together, mix in one ounce clarified 
butter and enough beaten egg to make the consistency of soft 
paste. Cool and shape in balls the size of a small egg. These 
may be poached and served with a Bechamel sauce or fried 
and served with any good brown or mushroom sauce. 

Lobster Quenelles. 

Pound to a paste the meat, tom-alley and coral of a hen 
lobster; mix with it two tablespoons fine bread crumbs and 
three ounces of butter. Season with salt, pepper, a speck of 
nutmeg and cayenne and moisten with yolks of two eggs and 
white of one. If it proves too soft when tested add the other 
white; if too stiff work in a little water. These may be cooled 
after poaching and then fried in butter and served as a garnish 
for steamed fish or in soup. They are delicious poached and 
served cold with sauce Tartare. If served hot the sauce should 
be Poulette or some other bland sauce. 

Timbale of Macaroni. 

Cook one-half pound of macaroni in salted water until it is 
soft enough to divide easily. Rinse in cold water and cut into 
short lengths. If time is no consideration it is verv pretty to 
cut in pieces one-third of an inch long and line the mold, 
setting the open ends against the bottom and sides which have 
been thickly spread with cold butter. Spread over the macaroni 
a good forcemeat suitable to whatever is to constitute the 
filling of the timbale, and afterwards fill up the mold with a 
highly seasoned mince of game, poultry, fish, oysters or sweet- 
breads. Moisten with a good sauce, cover with more of the 
forcemeat, pinching the edges well together lest the gravy 
should break through in cooking. Set the mold into a pan of 
hot water or into a steamer, and cook gently until hot through, 
but the water must not boil. 



Chicken Timbales. 

The quantity given will fill one quart mold or twelve small 
ones. 

Fonri: MEAT. Cook half a pint of fine stale bread crumbs 
in pint of cream with a blade of mace for twenty minutes. 
Remove the mace and with a wooden spoon mash to a smooth 
firm paste. Add six tablespoons butter, one tablespoon salt, 
one-eighth teaspoon white pepper, one pint of raw, lean veal 
scraped to a pulp and pounded smooth. Beat all well together 
and lastly add the whites of four eggs beaten stiff. Set away 
to cool. 

Filling. Make a white sauce with one and one-half cups 
cream, one level teaspoon butter, one round tablespoon flour, 
one teaspoon salt, one-half saltspoon pepper. Mix with it three 
cups diced chicken, adding mushrooms, truffles, etc., to your 

Butter the molds with cold butter, dot the bottom and sides 
with tinydice of truffle and line them with the forcemeat (take 
care to have the lining thin at the bottom of the mold and thick 
around the top, or it will break when turned out). Fill the 
molds to within three-quarters inch of the top with the creamed 
preparation, and cover with the forcemeat. Place the molds 
in a deep pan and pour in hot water to rill almost to the top of 
the molds. CoVer with a buttered paper and cook iri a slow 
oven for twenty-five minutes. The water must not boil. Serve 
with Bechamel yellow sauce, page, 42. 

Swedish Timbales. 

For the shells, use one cup of flour, one cup of milk, one egg, 
half a teaspoon of salt. Put all the ingredients together in a 
mixing bowl and with a Dover beater beat to a smooth batter. 
Put the timbale iron in a kettle of hot fat for about twenty 
minutes. Take the bowl of batter in the lef t hand and hold it 
near the kettle of hot fat; with the right hand lift the iron 
from the fat, wipe it on soft paper, dip it into the batter, coat- 
ing the iron to within three-quarters of an inch from the top, 
allow the batter to dry and then dip it in the hot fat, holding 
the iron a little sidewise until it is in the fat, then turn perpen- 
dicularly and cook until the batter is a delicate brown, or about 
one minute. Take the iron out the same way it is put in, being 
very careful not to drop the timbale into the fat, drain the 
grease off and lay it on a paper to drain. Wipe the drops of grease 
from the iron with a soft paper every time it is used. These 
may be filled with creamed oysters, creamed fish, green peas, 
macaroni, oranges, bananas, apricots, strawberries, etc., or 
mixed fruits, with whipped cream over the top. They may be 
made at any time and put in a dry, warm place, where they 
will keep indefinitely. 

Scotch Timbales. 

Butter well as many small dariole molds as are needed, and 
line them with cuts of plain unsweetened pancake. Take a 
preparation of puree of chicken, an equal bulk of raw chicken 
forcemeat and enough Salpicon Finauciere to make a mixture 
that will drop from the spoon. Fill the molds and cover with 
a round of pancake cut to fit the top exactly. Steam in a mod- 
erate oven for eight minutes. Unmold, dress on a hot dish, 
pour hot madeira sauce over (one-fourth pint for six molds), 
and serve iiot. Adapted from "The Table." 

Croquettes. 

Care and practice are required for successfully making cro- 
quettes. The meat must be chopped fine, all the ingredients be 
thoroughly mixed, and the whole mixture be as moist as possi- 
ble without spoiling the shape. Croquettes are formed in pear, 
round and cylindrical shapes. The last is the best, as the cro- 
quettes can be moister in this form than in the two others. 

They are well adapted for using any remnants of meat, fish 
or game; for making a savory dish from the more insipid vege- 
tables, and a sweet croquette is often accepted as an entremet 
or for a lunch dish. ' 

To shape: Take about a tablespoon of the mixture, and with 
both hands shape in the form of a cylinder. Handle as gently 
and carefully as if a tender bird. Pressure forces the particles 
apart, and thus breaks the form. Have a board sprinkled light- 
ly with bread or cracker crumbs, and roll the croquettes very 
gently on this. Remember that the slightest pressure will 
break them. Let them lie on the board until all are finished, 
when, if any have become flattened, roll them into shape again. 
Cover a board thickly with crumbs. Have beaten eggs, slightly 
salted, in a deep plate. Hold a croquette in the left hand, and 
with a brush, or the right hand, cover it with the egg; then roll 
in the crumbs. Continue this until they are all crumbed. 
Place a few at a time in boiling fat. Cook till a rich brown. 
It will tak" " K out a minute and a half. Take up, and lay o:i 
brown r s<=r m a warm pan. — Miss Parloa. 



40 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



I 



Chicken Croquettes, No. 1. (With Brains.) 

2 chickens boiled. i nutmeg grated. 

1 pair veal brains boiled. Salt to taste. 

1 cup suet chopped. 2 sprigs parsley. 

I lemon, juice and one-half 1 teaspoon onion juice, 

the rind grated. Cayenne and white pepper. 

1 pint cream sauce, No. 1. 

Chop or grind the meat as fine as possible, (use Enterprise 
Chopper), mix meat and seasoning well together and add as 
much thick cream sauce as you dare; it should be very soft as 
it stiffens in cooling. Set on the ice until thoroughly cold and 
firm enough to shape easily. Roll in cork shape about one by 
two and one half inches. Roll in sifted bread crumbs then in 
beaten egg diluted with two tablespoons milk, then in crumbs 
again, and set away till needed. Fry as in the preceeding 
recipes. 

N. B. The croquettes should be as soft as thick cream in the 
inside when served, with a delicate gold-colored covering out- 
side.— Condensed from "Good Living" by Madam S. V. B. 

Chicken Croquettes, No. 2. 

Cook and chop the chicken as in No. 1. "Weigh the meat 
after chopping and to each pound allow one teaspoon each salt 
and celery salt, one saltspoon white pepper, one-fourth salt- 
spoon cayenne. Make a sauce with one quart of the stock in 
which the chicken was cooked (reduced till very rich and 
strong) four ounces of butter, four ounces of flour. Cook a 
long time, beating long and hard till perfectly smooth, add the 
meat and stir only enough to mix thoroughly. Taste for sea- 
soning and put away till ice cold. Shape, egg and crumb, and 
fry as in No. 1 . ^ T 

Chicken Croquettes, No. 3. 

The meat of one-half a chicken, one-half a can of mush- 
rooms or six large oysters chopped together very fine. Cook a 
tablespoon of flour in a heaping tablespoon of butter and 
moisten with a gill of chicken stock, one-half gill of cream 
and one-half gill of mushroom or oyster liquor. Stir vigorously 
till the sauce is thick, smooth and glossy. Add the chopped 
chicken and mushroom with one saltspoon salt, one-half salt- 
spoon pepper and one teaspoon lemon juice. Stir well and if it 
seems too thick add carefully a very little more stock. It 
should be a sort of thick mush and very creamy. Cool, shape 
and fry as before. — Condensed from Catherine Owen. 

Royal Croquettes. 

Half a boiled chicken, one large sweetbread, cleaned and kept 
in hot water for five minutes; a calf's brains, washed and boiled 
five minutes; one teaspoon of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, half 
a pint of cream, one egg, quarter of a cup of butter, one table- 
spoon of corn-starch. Chop the chicken, brains and sweet- 
bread very fine, and add the egg well beaten. Mix the corn- 
starch with a little of the cream. Have the remainder of the 
cream boiling, and stir in the mixed corn-starch ; then add the 
butter and the chopped mixture and stir over the fire until it 
bubbles. Set aside to cool. Shape and roll twice in egg and in 
cracker crumbs. Put in the frying-basket and plunge into 
boiling fat. They should brown in less than a minute.— Mrs. 
Furness, of Philadelphia. 

Croquettes of Calf's Brains. 

For these croquettes boil the brains in well salted water, with 
a small sweetbread also, and when cold mince together. Add 
half a can of mushrooms chopped tine, half a cup of warm 
boiled rice, and one cup of thick, highly seasoned cream sauce. 
Cool, and then shape in small rolls. Boll in fine crumbs; egg 
and crumb again and fry in boiling lard or oil. Drain and serve. 

Sweetbread Croquettes. 

1 pint cooked and chopped 1 tablespoon scant salt. 

sweetbread. i pint cream. 

4 tablespoons chopped mush- J teaspoon white pepper, 

rooms. a dust of nutmeg. 

2 tablespoons butter. \ teaspoon chopped parsley. 
1 tablespoon flour. 2 eggs. 

1 tablespoon lemon juice. 
Mix the salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley and lemon juice with 
the mushrooms and sweetbreads, and set aside to season while 
making a white sauce according to direction on page 42 with 
the butter, flour and cream. Add the meat to the sauce and 
lastly the beaten egg. Set away to cool or stiffen for two or 
three hours, then shape, crumb and fry according to directions 
above. Serve with mushroom, white sauce or Bechamel yellow 
sauce. — Miss Parloa, "Kitchen Companion." 

Yeal and Sweetbreads. 

\'eal and sweetbreads could be prepared like chicken. 



Game. 

Game like chicken croquettes No. 3. 

Beef Croquettes. 

Prepare by any of the recipes for chicken or veal croquettes, 
if liked soft, but the following is recommended. Mince fine, 
but not to make it pasty; add an equal bulk of hot, boiled 
rice, cooked much softer than it is usually served for a vegeta- 
ble; season highly with salt, pepper, cayenne and onion juice, 
and set to cool. If it is too stiff, work in a little stock or gravy. 



Fish Croquettes. 

One pint cold boiled fish, free from skin and bone and minced 
fine, one pint hot mashed potato, one tablespoon butter, one- 
half cup hot milk, one egg well beaten; pepper and salt and a 
little chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly and let cool. When 
cold make into balls, dip into a beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs 
and fry in hot lard. Very nice made of shad roes. For salmon 
croquettes use (if made of canned salmon) bread crumbs instead 
of potatoes, and an extra egg, omitting the milk. 



Shad Roe Croquettes. 

One pint of cream, four tablespoons of corn-starch, four shad 
roe, four tablespoons of butter, one teaspoon of salt, the juice 
of two lemons, a slight grating of nutmeg, and a speck of 
cayenne. Boil the roe fifteen minutes in salted water; then 
drain and mash. Put the cream on to boil. Mix the butter 
and corn-starch together, and stir into the boiling cream. Add 
the seasoning and roe. Boil up once, and set away to cool. 
Shape and fry as directed. — Miss Lizzie Levereux. 



Lobster Croquettes. 

Two cups of finely chopped lobster, one saltspoon salt, one of 
mustard, a trifle cayenne. Mix with one cup cream sauce. 
Make into croquettes, roll in beaten egg and bread crumbs and 
fry in hot lard. 



Oyster Croquettes. 

Half pint raw oysters, half a pint of cooked veal, one heap- 
ing tablespoon of butter melted, three tablespoons of cracker 
crumbs, the yelks of two eggs, one tablespoon of onion juice. 
Chop the oysters and veal very fine. Soak the crackers in oys- 
ter liquor, and then mix all the ingredients, and shape. Dip iu 
egg and roll in bread crumbs, and fry as usual. 

Croquettes of Macaroni. 

Boil one-quarter pound macaroni in salted water until very 
tender. Drain and toss in a sauce-pan with one heaped table- 
spoon butter, one-half ounce Parmesan cheese, one-quarter 
ounce cooked tongue cut in fine dice. Spread on a well-buttered 
platter, about one inch thick, cover with a buttered paper, press 
it well down and set away to cool. Divide with a back of a 
knife into six parts, roll each one in grated cheese, then in 
lieaten egg and in crumbs. Fry in very hot fat till well browned. 
Drain and serve on a folded napkin. 

Rice Croquettes. 

Take a teacup of hot well-boiled rice and a teaspoon each of 
sugar and butter, with half that quantity of salt, and to them 
add one beaten egg and sufficient milk to bring all to the con- 
sistency of a firm paste after thoroughly beating and mixing. 
Shape into oval balls and dip in beaten egg, followed by a 
dipping in bread crumbs. Fry in sweet, hot lard, turning with 
care, and when done to a nice brown put into a heated colander. 
These are very nice to have a well-plumped raisin or candied 
cherry pushed into the center before frying and served with 
maple sauce. 

Savory Rice Croquettes. 

Prepare the rice as for pilaff and then add two eggs well 
beaten to each pint. Shape in oval balls, egg and crumb and 
fry as usual. 

Potato Croquettes. 

Season hot mashed potatoes with salt and pepper, a little nut- 
meg; beat to a cream, with a tablespoon of melted butter and 
ten drops of onion juice to every pint of potatoes; add one 
beaten egg yolk and some chopped parsley. Roll into small balls, 
dip in egg and milk, coat them with bread crumbs and fry in 
hot cottolene. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 






Farina Croquettes. 

Two-thirds cup Keeker's farina mixed with one cup cold 
milk, pour into one pint boiling water, and add one-half tea- 
spoon salt. Cook one hour, stirring often. Add yolks of two 
eggs and one-half cup thick cream. Cook live minutes, add 
whites beaten stiff. Cool, shape, crumb and fry. Serve with 
maple sugar sauce. 



FRITTERS. 
Fritter Batter, No. 1. 

For Swedish Timbales and wherever an article is to receive a 
very thin coating. 

One egg, one cup milk, one cup flour, one teaspoon salt. Put 
all together in a deep, narrow bowl and beat with Dover egg- 
beater until smooth, but not frothed. When used for a sweet 
dish add a teaspoon of sugar. 

Fritter Batter, No. 2. 

Two eggs beaten smooth, one cup flour, one-half teaspoon 
baking powder, one-half cup milk, one teaspoon salt, one table- 
spoon salad oil. Beat with Dover beater till smooth and glossy. 

Pate a Chou. 

Put into a sauce-pan one cup cold milk and two ounces of 
butter. Bring to a boil as quickly as possible, stirring con- 
stantly. Add one-quarter pound sifted and dried flour, and 
stir briskly over the fire for two minutes. Stand the pan away 
to cool slightly and as soon as cool enough beat in, one at a 
time, four eggs, beating hard after each one. This is now 
ready for use in any way and kept closely covered can set 
aside to keep several days. 

Chicken Fritters. 

One cup chicken stock, one heaping tablespoon flour, one 
tablespoon butter, one-half teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon 
celery salt, one cup cold chicken. Mix the flour smoothly in 
the hot butter, add the boiling stock gradually and when 
smooth, the seasoning, let simmer till quite thick. Pour half 
the sauce onto a small platter, and spread the chopped chicken 
evenly over the top. Then cover with the remainder of the 
sauce. Place on ice and when cold and hard cut into inch by 
two inch pieces. Dip them quickly into fritter batter No. 3 
and fry in deep, hot fat. — Mrs. I). A. Lincoln. 

Brain Fritters. 

Clean the brain, removing the red membrane and clots of 
blood, if there are any. Soak incoldsalted water one hour. Then 
put them into one pint cold water with one tablespoon lemon 
juice and one-half teaspoon salt. Bring to boil as soon as pos- 
sible, boil gently ten minutes then plunge into cold water until 
wanted. Dry gently on a soft cloth; cut into sections conven- 
ient for serving, roll each in fritter batter No. 2, which should be 
made a trifle stiffer than for the other dishes. Drop into hot 
fat and fry a handsome brown. Drain each piece on clean 
brown paper in a warm oven before serving. Have ready some 
stalks of parsley washed and dried. Plunge these into the hot 
fat for one minute until they become crisp, but do not let them 
lose their color. Serve on a folded napkin, dressing with the 
crisp parsley. 

Ham Fritters. 

Take off most of the fat from a pint of ham and chop fine. 
Add to this two well-beaten eggs, a dash of cayenne pepper and 
enough stock or milk to make a good fritter batter. Fry by the 
spoon in hot fat until done in the centre and a light brown on 
the outside. 

Oyster Fritters. 

Pick over and parboil the oysters; drain them well and use 
their liquor in place of milk to mix the batter No. 2, adding 
more salt and pepper, if needed. 

Fish Fritters. 

Boil one pound of the fish and mince it very fine, boil and 
mash two Irish potatoes; chop half of a small onion; mix with 
two raw eggs, a little salt and pepper and two tablespoons of 
Worcestershire sauce. Make into balls, roll in cracker dust 
and fry in boiling fat. 

Vegetable Fritters. 

Vegetables of any kind should be thoroughly cooked, drained 
and either chopped fine or cut in pieces convenient for serving 
before being added to the batter, using No. 2 or No. 3. 



Tomato Fritters. 

Cook together half a can of tomato, half a teaspoon of salt, 
a pinch of pepper and half a teaspoon of Bugar. After conking 
ten minutes si tr into it a tablespoon of (lour and one of butter 
that have been previously blended. Cook three minutes longer 

and rub through a strainer. Spread on a platter four sliees of 
stale bread and pour the strained tomato over them. Let this 
stand for half an hour, then turn the slices. Beat one egg and 
dip the toast first in the egg and then in bread crumbs. After 
that put them into the. frying-basket and cook in boiling fat 
two minutes. Drain well and serve hot. 

Banana Fritters, No. 1. 

Mash fine three bananas. Mix one cup flour, one teaspoon 
baking powder, two tablespoons sugar and one-half saltspoon 
of salt. Beat one egg light, add one-third cup of milk; add to 
dry ingredients. Add the bananas and one teaspoon lemon 
juice. Drop by spoonfuls into deep fat and fry. Drain on 
paper and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 

Grape Fruit or Shaddock Fritters. 

Pare the fruit with a sharp knife, removing every bit of 
white skin. Remove pulp from each section, picking out the 
seeds. Sift into a mixing bowl one cup flour, one saltspoon 
salt, one heaping tablespoon sugar and rub to a smooth stiff 
batter with a little milk and the yolks of two eggs well beaten. 
Add the prepared fruit and enough milk to make it drop 
smoothly from the spoon. Cut in lightly the whites of four 
eggs beaten stiff. Drop by teaspoonfuls into hot fat. Drain 
and dust with powdered sugar. 

Pineapple Fritters. 

Cut the fruit in thin, small sections, sprinkle with sugar and 
let lie for an hour or two, then drain as dry as possible. Roll 
each piece in sifted bread crumbs before dipping in batter 
No. 1. Drain on soft paper, sift powdered sugar over and serve 
with pineapple sauce. 

Pineapple Sauce. 

Make a heavy syrup w r ith one cup sugar and one-half cup 
water, boiling it till it will spin. Then strain and add whatever 
juice has drained from the cut pineapple (syrup, if canned pine 
is used) and enough white wine to make one pint in all. Do 
not boil after adding the wine. Finish with a teaspoon of San- 
ta Cruz, or Old Jamaica, or Curacoa. 

Apple Fritters. 

Take soft tart apples, peel and remove the pips; cut in round, 
thin slices; plunge them in a mixture of brandy, lemon juice 
and sugar until they have acquired the taste; drain and dust 
them with flour. Pour in the chafing-dish three tablespoons of 
butter; when very hot fry the slices on both sides, sprinkle 
powdered sugar and cinamon, and serve very hot. 

Apricot Fritters. 
Drain well a quart can of apricots. Dip each in batter No- 
2 and fry quickly. Drain and serve like other fruit fritters, 
either with powdered sugar or with apricot sauce. 

Peach Fritters. 

In using the canned peaches dip them in batter No. 3. If 
fresh peaches are used, cut them in small pieces and mix 
through batter No. 2. 

Apple, Pear, etc. 

Apple, pear, etc. are usually cut in slices, sprinkled with 
sugar, lemon juice or wine and set to steep awhile before mask- 
ing them with the batter. With pear fritters serve a sugar 
syrup flavored with Green Chartreuse. 

Preserved Plums. 

Plums or other preserve should be cut in small pieces and 

masked with batter No. 3. A spoonful of marmalade, 

or any firm jelly makes a delicious mouthful treated in the 

same wav. c. ,. t- -^ 

Strawberry Fritters. 

Brush carefully large strawberries, leaving them on the stem- 
Do not wash. Roll them in thick, melted peach marmalade or 
strawberry jam, then in pulverized macaroons; dip in p3te-a- 
chou batter and fry briskly in deep, hot fat. Drain on a cloth, 
dish on a crumpled Japanese napkin and sift powdered sugar 
over. Serve at once. 

Elderfiower Fritters, 

Wash, drain and keep on ice till wanted, as many cymes of 
freshly blossomed elder as will be needed. Dip them in batter 
No. 1, shake lightly and fry till crisp. Serve as soon as possible, 
as they spoil if allowed to droop. Range on a mat of elder 
leaves and dust thickly with powdered sugar. 



42 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



I 



MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 

The foundation for almost all our common sauces is what the 
French call a "roux," made as follows: 

Melt one ounce (one rounded tablespoon) butter in a sauce- 
pan and let it boil till it begins to show a pale straw color. 
Add two tablespoons flour and stir briskly. Add one pint hot 
milk, or milk and water, or water, pouring slowly and beating 
hard, add one-half teaspoon salt, one-half saltspoon white 
pepper and a speck of cayenne and you have a plain white sauce 
or drawn butter to which a good tablespoon of butter should be 
added just long enough to melt before going to the table. 

When the butter and flour are allowed to become brown it is 
called a brown roux and is used for soups, stews, gravies, etc. 



Cream Sauce, No. 1. 

One pint cream, one-half teaspoon salt, one tablespoon butter, 
one-half saltspoon pepper, two tablespoons flour, a speck cay- 
enne. Make as above. 

Creaui Sauce, No. 2. 

Make as in No. 1, using only one scant tablespoon flour and 
thickening with a liaison of two egg yolks beaten with an equal 
bulk of cold water, return to the sauce-pan until the sauce 
thickens like soft custard. 

Cream Sauce, No. 3, for Croquettes, Etc. 

Allow two tablespoons butter and four heaping tablespoons 
flour to a pint of cream, seasoning as before. This sauce is 
much improved by using half or more rich chicken stock in place 
of all cream. 

Velvet. 

Melt one ounce butter, add two tablespoons flour and stir 
well. Moisten with one quart good veal or chicken stock, add a 
bouquet, one-half cup of mushroom liquor, six whole peppers, 
one saltspoon salt, a suspicion of nutmeg. Boil for twenty 
minutes, stirring continuously then remove to side of fire, skim 
well, and simmer very slowly one hour. Strain and add more 
salt and pepper if needed. 

Bechamel. 

One pint white stock, two tablespoons butter, four table- 
spoons flour, six mushrooms or the liquor from a half can, one 
cup cream, one and a half tablespoons lemon juice. Cook the 
butter and flour well together with salt and pepper if the stock 
is not already well seasoned. Add the stock as in plain white 
sauce, then the mushrooms, washed, peeled and cut small; let 
the sauce simmer twenty minutes with the lid half on. Skim 
off the butter as it rises. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing 
hard; add the cream and lemon juice and let boil about three 
minutes. Pour out and stir often while cooling. If this is to 
be used to mask a chaud-froid it will need one tablespoon gela- 
tine. 

Yellow Bechamel. 

Add a blade of mace and one tablespoon minced carrot to 
the seasoning of the above, and finish with a liaison of four egg 
yolks and one-half cup cream. 

Hollandaise. 

Cook one tablespoon flour in one teaspoon butter, add 
slowly one cup strong veal or chicken stock; when it boils 
remove from the fire and whisk in the yolks of four eggs beaten 
smooth with one tablespoon lemon juice and a few drops of 
onion juice, if liked; return to the fire and stir constantly till it 
begins to stiffen, then drop in one tablespoon butter and beat 
with whisk till dissolved and smooth. It sounds like more 
trouble than it is, and is the best sauce made for boiled fish, 
cauliflower, asparagus, etc. 

Russian. 

To three-quarters pint of good Bechamel, add one teaspoon 
powdered sugar, a scant saltspoon red pepper, three tablespoons 
grated horse-radish and two of thick cream, (or a liaison of 
four egg yolks and one-half pint of light wine). 

Oyster. 

One-half pint Bechamel, one-half teaspoon essence anchovy, 
ten drops Simla sauce. Pour boiling hot over one-half pint 
oysters that have been parboiled and drained. 



Aurora. 

To one pint of Bechamel, add four ounces butter, a little 
cream, a pinch of red pepper, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, 
and enough lobster butter to make a fine reddish tint. Mix 
well without boiling. 

Lobster, for Boiled Fish. 

One small lobster, four tablespoons of butter, two of flour* 
one-fifth of a teaspoon of cayenne, two tablespoons of lemon 
juice, one pint of boiling water. Cut the meat into dice. 
Pound the "coral" with one tablespoon of the butter. Rub the 
flour and the remainder of the butter to a smooth paste. Add 
the water, pounded "coral," and butter, and the seasoning. 
Simmer five minutes, and then strain on the lobster. Boil up 
once and serve. 

Asparagus. 

Make a white roux as usual, taking one pint of the water in 
which the asparagus was boiled; when smooth, add one table- 
spoon lemon juice and a half teaspoon sugar. 

Soubise. 

Peal, slice and parboil four Spanish onions. Drain and put 
them into a stew-pan with two ounces butter, salt, pepper and 
a dust of nutmeg, if liked. Simmer gently till they can be 
rubbed through a fine puree sieve. Add one pint Bechamel or 
velvet sauce and simmer for fifteen minutes. 

Meat Glaze. 

Is excellent for giving color and flavor to soups and adds the 
finishing touch to many of the best sauces. Place eight quarts 
of well flavored consomme over a brisk fire and reduce it to one- 
half pint. Put it in a stone jar, cool and cover it, and it will 
keep in the ice-box for a long time. 

Bouquet. 

Four stalks parsley, one stalk celery, one bay leaf, two cloves, 
one-half blade mace, one sprig thyme. Wrap all in the parsley 
and tie closely at each end. I)ry for winter use. 

Mirepoix. 

Cook two ounces of fat, butter, dripping or chicken oil, two 
small carrots, one onion, one sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, six 
peppercorns, three cloves and an ounce of lean ham; bits of the 
outside of roast meat may be added. Chop the vegetables and 
cook gently for fifteen minutes, add two stalks of celery and 
one-half parsley root; simmer covered for ten minutes more, 
add pepper and spice if desired and store for use. 

Tomato. 

1 quart tomatoes, 2 tablespoons mirepoix, 1 teaspoon sugar. 
Simmer till reduced one-half; sift, add either white or brown 
roux and let simmer 5 minutes longer, add more seasoning if 
needed. 

Spanish. 

Two carrots, one onion, cut fine and cooked in two ounces 
bacon or sausage dripping, add one sprig thyme, one bay leaf, 
six peppers, one clove, two sprigs parsley, four stalks celery (or 
one-quarter teaspoon celery seed). Two quarts weak white 
broth of any kind and simmer gently for one-half hour; then 
add strong brown stock enough to make four quarts. Boil 
slowly three hours, adding any bones of roast veal or ham at 
hand. Cook four ounces of flour in two ounces dripping till a. 
light brown, moisten with the boiling stock and skim well 
before straining. Strain and put away for constant use. It 
will keep a month in cold weather and is the foundation for 
numberless fancy sauces. 

Madeira. 

Add one gill mushroom liquor to one pint of Spanish sauce, 
also one gill Madeira wine and one-half teaspoon pepper. 
Cook'gently for thirty minutes, taking off the fat; the sauce, 
will be left rather thin. Strain and use as needed. 

Colbert. 

Heat one-half pint Madeira sauce, add to it gradually one 
ounce fresh butter and two tablespoons meat-glaze. Mix well 
together without boiling; then squeeze in the juice of one-half 
a large lemon (about two tablespoons) and add one teaspoon 
chopped parsley when serving. 



/ 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



43 



Poivrade. 

Fry in one-halt' ounce butter one-half an onion and one-half 
carrot. Cut small a sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, six pepper- 
corns three cloves, four parsley leaves and one-half ounce raw 
ham. Cook for live minutes, then moisten with two table- 
spoons tarragon vinegar and one pint Spanish sauce. ]5oil 
twenty minutes then remove grease and strain. 

Olive Brown. 

Stone two dozen olives. Cook for one-half hour in water 
enough to cover. Drain and put into a stew-pan with one pint 
plain brown sauce. Set over steam for five minutes. This is 
especially nice for roast duck. 

Orange, for Duck or other Game. 

Reduce the glaze in the pan with a pint of broth; strain and 
remove the fat, reduce to one-half with one-half pint of thick 
brown gravy and the juice of two oranges. Strain, add the 
rind of one orange very finely shred. 

Bordelaise. 

One-half pint sauterne, one tablespoon chopped shallots, 
three-fourths pint Spanish sauce, scant saltspoon red pepper, 
about two inches cooked marrow. Boil the shallots in the 
wine until reduced one-half, add the Spanish sauce and cook 
fifteen minutes, then add the red pepper and the marrow cut in 
eighteen round slices; they should be less than one-eighth inch 
thick. Boil up once and serve. 

Robert. 

Slice one-half an onion and fry with one-half ounce butter 
and one teaspoon sugar until a golden color; moisten with one- 
half pint Spanish sauce and simmer ten minutes; then add one 
teaspoon mustard flour, rubbed smooth with four tablespoons 
white wine vinegar (diluted). Stir till it comes to the boil, 
strain and serve. 

Perigueux. 

Tut into a sauce-pan three ladles of browned and thickened 
stock, two glasses of chablis (any white wine will do), and half 
a saltspoon of pepper; reduce one-quarter by boiling, and add 
half a pint of truitles chopped finely. 

Indian. 

One sliced onion, one ounce raw, lean ham, one sprig thyme, 
twelve whole peppercorns, one ounce butter, one teaspoon 
curry, one-half cup cream, two egg yolks, two tablespoons lemon 
juice, one pint, velvet sauce. Cook the onion, ham, thyme and 
peppers with the butter until well reduced, but do not brown. 
Rub the curry into the velvet sauce, add to the cooked onion 
and boil ten minutes, then strain into the beaten egg yolks 
which have been diluted with the cream. Stir over hot water 
until it begins to thicken, then add the lemon and serve at once. 

Piquante. 

Put into a sauce-pan an ounce of butter, a chopped onion and 
carrot and simmer till brown. Add one gill vinegar, a bay leaf, 
one clove, six peppercorns, six allspice berries, one-half blade 
of mace, one and one-half pints Spanish sauce; simmer twenty 
minutes. Finish with two tablespoons each chopped gherkins, 
capers, olives and parsley. 

Champagne. 

Cream together one tablespoon of butter and one of flour; 
stir into it slowly a half pint of hard-boiling brown soup stock; 
let it boil up once or twice to cook the flour, remove it from the 
fire, and stir in half a pint of champagne. 

Cucumber. 

Grate two good-sized cucumbers and allow all the water to 
drain away. Add one-half teaspoon salt, a dash of cayenne, a 
tablespoon of vinegar and serve at once. — 8. T. Rorer. 

Horse-Radish. 

One cup of freshly grated horse-radish, one teaspoon salt, 
one-half saltspoon pepper, one teaspoon made mustard, one tea- 
spoon sugar, two tablespoons vinegar, well mixed together. 
Add one cup cream whipped very stiff. 

Mint. 

Pick the leaves from the stems, wash them thoroughly and 
wring them dry in a cloth. Chop as fine as sawdust, sprinkle 
powdered sugar over thickly, and barely cover with vinegar. 
•If any vinegar rests in the bottom of the sauce-boat, it should 
be thrown away. Make this sauce half an hour before using, 
and set it on the ice. 



Mustard. 

Two teaspoons of dry mustard, one teaspoon of flour, one 
teaspoon ot salt, one teaspoon of soft butter, one teaspoon of 
sugar, two tablespoons of vinegar. 

Mix in the order given, in a granite saucepan; add one-half cup 
of boiling water and stir on the fire till it thickens and is smooth. 
Add two tablespoons finely chopped pickles and serve it cold. 

Mayonaise. 

Three raw egg yolks in a cold bowl with one level teaspoon 
dry mustard, one teaspoon salt, one-half saltspoon cayenne, one- 
half saltspoon sugar. Beat with a Dover beater till smooth, 
then add drop by drop one pint of salad oil, beating constantly. 
If it thickens too much to stir well, put in lemon juice alter- 
nately with oil until two tablespoons have been used, then add 
vinegar until as sour as wished, but avoid thinning too much. 

Oil should be kept in the dark and at a moderate tempera- 
ture, sixty-five degrees to seventy-five degrees, to secure the 
best results. 

The sauce should have a jelly like, not pasty, consistency and 
should keep its shape when drawn up to a point; the harder it 
is beaten the sooner this result is attained. If a thick, smooth 
sauce is required for masking, a part of the sauce can be taken 
out before all the lemon juice or vinegar is added, and the 
remainder finished to suit the taste or the dish being made. If 
the sauce is to be served separately and a spongy texture is de- 
sired, all the acid dilution may be put in when half the oil has 
been used; beat furiously until foamy and finish with the rest 
of the oil. The size of the eggs and the sharpness of the vine- 
gar are so variable that the sauce made with a pint of oil may 
vary at different times. If the vinegar is too strong, substitute 
one tablespoon of water. The sugar in this recipe is a conces- 
sion to the present popular taste, a true mayonaise has none; 
palatable sauces may be made at one's pleasure with wine, 
cream, bacon fat — even flour or cornstarch may be used— but 
they should not be called mayonaise. 

If the oil is added too fast the sauce may curdle or "break;" 
in this case take a fresh, cold egg yolk in another bowl, beat till 
thick, add the curdled sauce by the half teaspoon at first, then 
more freely until all has been taken in, then go on as usual. 

When making half the quantity use a small bowl to begin 
with and take one large or two small egg yolks; when it begins 
to spatter, as it should before it is half done, turn into a larger 
one. 

Green Mayonaise. 

Green mayonaise is made by the addition of three tablespoons 
ravigote herbs to this recipe. 

Red Mayonaise. 

Red mayonaise, by adding one tablespoon lobster coral, dried 
and pounded to powder. 

Sauce Tartare. 

Sauce tartare is made by adding to the green mayonaise 
fifteen drops onion juice, one teaspoon capers, one teaspoon 
gherkins, one teaspoon parsley, each chopped exceedingly fine, 
one teaspoon chervil, if you have it. 

Remoulade. 

Rub well together the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs with one 
raw, one teaspoon mustard, one-half teaspoon salt, one-half 
saltspoon white pepper, one teaspoon chopped parsley. Add 
two tablespoons vinegar and beat in by degrees one-half pint 
oil alternating with more vinegar until three tablespoons of 
tarragon vinegar have been used, beat with Dover beater till 
very light and thick. 

Bearnaise. 

Chop very fine two medium sized shallots, place them on the 
fire with two tablespoons of chervil vinegar and five crushed 
peppers. Reduce until nearly dry, then put away to cool. Rub 
into it six raw egg yolks, beating sharply, then work in gradu- 
ally one and one-half ounces of fresh butter (or lightly s-lted 
creamery), season with one teaspoon salt, a dust of grated nut- 
meg and twelve finely chopped tarragon leaves. Set the sauce- 
pan into boiling water and cook until the sauce is firm, beating- 
briskly with a whisk, add one teaspoon melted meat glaze, beat 
till well mixed, strain and send at once to the table, arranging 
over it any article required to be served. — Adapted from FUi- 
pini. 

Ravigote Sauce. (Cold.) 

Add one tablespoon each of finely minced parsley, chives, 
chervil, tarragon and shallot to one pint of mayonaise, &nd 
add a little spinach green if not colored enough with the herbs. 



44 



\ 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



I 




iti iig. ifet itt 2&L 
?if 5pr w * «ff 



ore Wh^at to the /Will. » 



• ^ 



A^ 



WASJTBZ7JRIV, CBOSJ5F CO. 



Have recently added to their extensive milling 
plant fifty (50) wheat elevators. This firm now 
owns 150 elevators, situated in the Hard Wheat 
Belt of Minnesota and Dakota, enabling them to 
buy wheat direct from farmers' hands and reducing 
manufacturing cost of flour to the minimum. 



XTbie is tbe flour 





That took FIRST PRIZE at the 
Centennial Exhibition I876. 



That took FIRST PRIZE at the That took FIRST PRIZE at the 
Millers' Exposition, I880. World's Fair, I893. 

LARGEST, FINEST AND BEST EQUIPPED MILL8 ON EARTH. 



. . REMEMBER 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO. FLOUR 

is always branded with CENTER IN YELLOW which is our registered trade mark. 

NONE OTHER IS GENUINE. 



V 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NKW COOK BOOK. 



45 



Ravigoto Sauce. (Hot.) 

Put into a sauce-pan one-half pint of consomme' stock, one- 
half teaspoon of vinegar, a very little green garlic ami the 
same of tan-agon leaves and chervil. Boil ten minutes, drain 
the herbs, press all moisture from them with a cloth and chop 
very fine. Cook one-half ounce Hour in one-half ounce butter, 
moisten with the consomme and vinegar and when it comes to 
a smooth mixture add the chopped herbs and serve. 

Ravigoto Butter. 

To the above herbs add one-half teaspoon of essence of 
anchovy, an ounce of fresh butter and a few drops of spinach 
green. Rub through a line sieve and keep in a cold place for 
general use. 

Horseradish Butter. 

Pound in a mortar one teaspoon of grated horseradish with 
one tablespoon of butter. Season with one-third saltspoon of 
red pepper. Rub through a fine sieve and keep in a cool place. 
When this butter is added to other sauces it should not boil 
again. 

Shrimp Butter. 

Pick the meat from twelve cooked shrimp; dry the shells 
and pound all together in a mortar, adding one tablespoon of 
good butter; place in a sauce-pan on a moderate fire, stirring 
until it clarifies, it will take about five minutes. Strain through 
a napkin pressing hard, and letting it drop into cold water. 
When it is hard take it out and place it in a warm bowl, stirring 
till it takes the desired color. Lobster butter is made in the 
same way. 

Bread. 

Crumble one and one-half ounces of stale bread and place it 
in a sauce-pan with a scant half cup of cold milk and six whole 
peppers. Let simmer for five minutes; then pour in one-half 
cup cream, one-half teaspoon onion juice, simmer i\ve minutes 
longer and serve in a sauce-bowl, removing the peppers. Do 
not stir. 

Bohemian. 

Put in a sauce-pan one cup fresh bread crumbs, one-half cup 
good beef broth, season with salt, stir occasionally and boil for 
ten minutes; rub through a puree sieve, add four tablespoons 
fresh grated horseradish and two ounces butter; mix well but 
do not boil. Serve with beefsteak or cold boiled beef or roast 

veal - Black Butter. 

Cook one ounce of butter in the frying pan until it becomes 
brown; add six parsley leaves, heat again for one minute, then 
throw in five drops of vinegar. Pour it into a sauce bowl and 



serve. 



Tartar. 



Mix one tablespoon vinegar, one teaspoon lemon juice, one 
saltspoon salt and one tablespoon Worcestershire and heat over 
hot water. Brown one-third cup butter, strain it in the other 
mixture and pour over the dish. 

Vinaigrette. 

Chop together very fine one shallot, two branches parsley the 
same of chives and chervil. Place them in a sauce bowl with 
one tablespoon of salt, a teaspoon of pepper, and three tea- 
spoons of vinegar. Stir all well together, then add four table- 
spoons good oil; mix well again and serve. 

Garnishing Chipolata. 

Make ready equal quantities of carrots, turnips, chestnuts, 
mushrooms, pieces of bacon and small sausages, as many as 
are required to garnish the dish. Roast or boil and peel the 
chestnuts, fry the pieces of bacon, boil separately all the other 
ingredients in seasoned broth. When they are ready, drain 
them and put into a sauce-pan with sufficient Spanish sauce to 
cover, add a glass of sherry and it is ready for use. It is better 
prepared the day before. 

Garnishing Provengale, No. 1. 

Put a chopped onion and one bruised clove of garlic in the 
sautoir; fry a little, add one pint finely sliced mushrooms and 
fry a little longer; wet with a pint of Spanish sauce and a gill 
of tomato sauce and boil five minutes. Finish with a pinch of 
red pepper, chopped parsley and lemon juice. 

Garnishing a la Provengale, No. 2. 

Peel two solid white onions, mince them and parboil for five 
minutes; drain well and toss them in an omelet pan with one 
tablespoon fresh butter for five minutes. Rub the spoon witli 
a freshly cut clove of garlic, add a dash of lemon juice or white 
wine, one-half tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese and one-half 
'cup good white sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Stir all 
well until it comes to the boil, then set away to cool. 



Garnishing a la Financiore. 

Cook separately and put in a saucepan a sliced sweetbread, 
a beef palate cut in round slices, one-hall' pint diced mush- 
rooms, two large cock's combs, four tablespoons chopped truf- 
fles, twelvesmall chicken quenelles, twelve Stoned and parboiled 
olives, add one quart of madeira sauce and boil gently till of 
the desired consistency; skim and use as required, 

Salpicon Royal. 

Cut a blanched sweetbread into small pieces and put them 
into a saucepan with one level teaspoon of butter, six mi 
rooms and one truffle all cut into one-half inch dice. Add them 
to one-half pint of white sauce well seasoned with salt, pepper 
and a speck of nutmeg if liked. Let cook on a slow fire five 
minutes, tossing gently. Finish by adding one level tablespoon 
shrimp butter. 

EGGS. 

Breakfast Eggs 

Should never be boiled. A thin shell of the white is made 
hard and indigestible, while the bulk of the egg is barely 
warmed through. The following is a better way: Put six into 
a vessel that will hold two quarts. Fill with boiling water, 
cover closely and set on the stove shelf for seven minutes in 
cook very soft; ten minutes for medium, twelve to fifteen 
minutes for very lirm. Crumple a napkin in a hot dish and 
serve ranged in its folds. 

Scrambled Eggs. 

For six persons allow six eggs and one tablespoon milk, one salt- 
spoon salt, a speck of pepper and one-half teaspoon of butter 
to each egg. 15reak the egg into a bowl, add the seasoning, but 
do not beat. When the milk begins to boil pour in the eggs and 
seasoning. Do not stir, but as the egg cooks, scrape gently 
from bottom of the dish, drawing the cooked mass to one side. 
Remove from the fire before it is quite firm through, turn into 
a hot dish and serve quickly. This dish may be varied by using, 
instead of the milk, strained tomato, soup stock or gravy. 

Poached Eggs. 

For this the eggs should be new laid and cold. Put a quart 
of water, one teaspoon salt and one teaspoon vinegar in a 
shallow pan, arrange in it as many muffin rings as there are 
eggs to be cooked, and set the pan where the water will bubble 
at one side only. Break the eggs one at a time and slide them 
into the rings. If the water does not cover them, gently pour 
on a little more boiling water till it does. Cook till the white is 
set over the yolks; then pour off most of the water; with a 
cake-turner, lift each egg and lay on a slice of buttered toast, 
removing the ring after it is in place. Poached eggs may be 
done in milk, stock or in gravy which can be poured over the 
toast on which they are served. They may be used with various 
arrangements of hashed meat or cold fish reheated in white 
sauce or any other. They are a favorite accompaniment to ham 
and bacon, and are used as garnish in clear soup, and with 
Spanish rice, etc. 

Griddled Eggs. 

Heat the griddle almost as much as for baking cakes, butter 
it lightly and range small muffin rings on it. Drop an egg in 
each and turn as soon as lightly browned. They resemble 
fried eggs, but are far more delicate. 

Steamed Eggs. 

Cook in an ordinary steamer for five minutes, more or less, to 
suit the taste; they may also be broken into buttered cups and 
steamed with any of the variations in seasoning found under 
poached eggs, as they really are. When different members of 
the family come to breakfast at different times, it is a great 
convenience to be able to prepare all the portions at once, and 
cook and serve when needed. * For an invalid, beat light, season 
and steam only till well warmed through. 

Baked Eggs. 

Beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, leaving each yolk 
in a half shell; season with pepper and salt, put them in a but- 
tered baking dish, make little hollows with the end of a shell 
and slip a yolk into each one. Bake in an oven quick enough 
to brown slightly in five minutes. This is pretty, but rather 
tasteless. Try it with thin rounds of buttered brown bread 
covered with cheese, either grated or cut; set in the oven long 
enough to heat the bread and melt the cheese, then add the 
beaten whites and yolks as before. 

For an invalid, make a nest of the beaten white of one egg 
on a square of toasted white or graham bread, put a tablespoon 
of rich cream over the yolk and set for three minutes in a quick 
oven. 



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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



I 



Plain Omelet. . 

Put four eggs into a bowl with half a teaspoon salt, one scant 
saltspoon pepper, give them twelve vigorous beats with a fork 
and add four tablespoons milk or cream; put one teaspoon 
butter in an omelet pan, shake it over the fire till frothy, turn 
in the eggs and shake over a quick fire until they are set; roll 
and turn on to a dish. To make jelly, parsley, ham, cheese or 
chicken omelet spread the seasoning over the egg just before 
rolling it. 

Omelet, No. 2. 

For each egg allow one saltspoon salt, a dust of pepper, one 
tablespoon of liquid (milk, cream, stock, tomato, etc.). Break 
whites and yolks separately, beating each until very light; add 
seasoning and fold the yolks into the w r hites, stirring as little as 
possible. Have the omelet pan hot, melt in it one teaspoon of 
butter and cook over a quick fire until well browned on the 
bottom, then set in the oven until the top is set. Fold carefully 
not to break the crust, aud turn onto a hot dish. Serve at once. 
This omelet is delicious made with ham, green peas, one cup 
grated or chopped sweet corn or asparagus tips. The latter 
should be well cooked, drained, seasoned and spread on just 
before folding the omelet; the ham may be folded in or mixed 
through the whole egg. Oysters should be parboiled and 
drained ; the liquor from them may be strained and used instead 
of milk to give a richer flavor to the omelet. Other additions 
may be used as follows: 

Three tablespoons of fresh mushrooms, peeled, chopped and 
fried lightly in just enough butter to keep from sticking. 

One cup stewed kidney, page 19. Serve with tomato sauce, 
adding it to the extra gravy from the kidneys. 

Three sardines, skinned and boned, broken into bits and sea- 
soned lightly with cayenne and lemon juice. 

One-half cup Lyonnaise potato. 

For sweet omelets use fruit pulp, sweetened and cooked or not; 
garnish with whole fruit (strawberries, raspberries, etc.) or 
pieces of cooked fruit (apple, peach, pear). 

Chicken Liver Omelet. 

Take four sound livers, soak them in salted water one hour, 
drain and brown in one ounce butter in a rather small pan, 
then cook slowly till tender; cut in small bits, add a teaspoon 
of minced onion, cook three minutes, then one gill of Spanish 
sauce or good brown gravy, one tablespoon mild vinegar and 
one tablespoon chopped mushrooms; seasonas needed with salt 
and cayenne; set back while preparing omelet No. 2. When 
set, put in the livers, fold and serve as usual. — Adapted from 
T. J. Murrey, 

Fried Eggs. 

Fried eggs may be done in butter, oil or any sweet animal 
fat; the pan should hold fat enough to almost cover the eggs, 
the eggs should be slipped into the fat singly from a cup; dip 
the hot fat over them; do not let the fat grow hot enough to 
"frizzle" the whites, it will be too hard for any but an ostrich to 
digest; browned butter with chopped parsley and a few drops 
of vinegar may be served poured over them on the platter, also 
with poached eggs on toast. 

An Amulet of Eggs the Savoury Way. 

Take a dozen of eggs, beat them very well and season them 
with salt and a little pepper; then have your frying-pan ready 
with a good deal of fresh butter in it and let it be thoroughly 
hot; then put in your eggs with four spoons strong gravy; have 
ready parsley and a few chieves cut and throw them over it, 
and when it is enough turn it; and when done, dish it and 
squeeze orange or lemon over it. — From, the Compleat House- 
wife. 

Sweet Omelet. 

Allow one teaspoon powdered sugar to each egg; omit the 
pepper and proceed as for No. 2. When ready to fold, lay in 
any kind of jelly, marmalade or fresh fruit, allowing one table- 
spoon to each egg. Fold and dust with sugar. The juice or 
pulp of fruit may be used, instead of milk or cream. The sur- 
face may be thickly covered with sugar and scored w r ith a hot 
poker. 

Omelet Celestine. 

Allow one macaroon and one teaspoon apple or quince jelly for 
every two eggs. Roll the macaroons and braid with the jelly, 
moisten with a little cream if too stiff to spread easily on tlie 
omelet. Cook, fill and fold as usual, garnish with whipped cream 
fenced in with split lady fingers. The whipped cream may also 
be "piped" on in figures, but not much time can be spent on the 
ornamentation. 



Spanish Omelet. 

Cut four ounces of bacon in very thin slices and then into 
half inch squares; fry gently till crisp and add one small onion, 
a medium sized tomato and five mushrooms, all chopped rather 
fine; rub a freshly cut clove of garlic on the spoon used to stir, 
while cooking fifteen minutes. Meanwhile break six eggs in a 
bowl, season with one saltspoon salt, one-quarter saltspoon 
white pepper. Give them a dozen or so strong strokes and turn 
into a perfectly smooth frying-pan, in which a teaspoon of but- 
ter has been melted and spread over the bottom and side. 
Shake as usual, until nearly set. Spread the bacon and vegeta- 
bles quickly over, fold, set it in the oven for one minute, turn it 
upon a heated platter and serve at once. — Mrs. Rorer. 

Rice Omelet. 

Warm a cup of cold boiled rice in one cup of milk with one 
tablespoon butter; stir and beat till well blended; add three 
well beaten eggs and salt as needed; melt another tablespoon 
butter in a frying pan; when boiling hot turn in tne rice and 
egg, let it brown one minute, put in the oven to set, fold and 
serve as usual. — Miss Corson. 

There are many dishes in which rice, crumbs, macaroni, flour, 
meat or vegetables chopped fine are mixed with the raw egg 
instead of being laid thinly over the cooked egg just before 
folding. These are not true omelets, but may be made nourish- 
ing and attractive, and are recommended especially when eggs 
are dear. 

Hard Boiled Eggs. 

Hard boiled eggs may be served in numberless ways. Cook 
one-half hour as directed for breakfast, cover at once with cold 
water and renew it till they can be handled well; roll on the 
table gently till the shell is well crushed and it can be peeled off 
without marring the egg. 

Scalloped Eggs, No. 1. 

Slice six eggs, season with salt, pepper and one teaspoon 
chopped parsley, or cheese, or onion, and cover with one pint 
white sauce made with stock. Sprinkle with one-half cup 
cracker crumbs lighly browned in butter and set in moderate 
oven ten minutes. 

No. 2. Use one cup of scalded oysters to alternate with the 
eggs and cover with a plain cream sauce. 

Eggs Curried. 

Cut some hard-boiled eggs in halves; cut off the white end 
sufficiently to make them stand upright; pour some curry sauce 
around them. 

Lyonnaise. 

Cook a chopped onion in butter till yellow, not brown at all, 
add the whites of six eggs chopped fine, season highly with 
cayenne and salt, add a few drops of lemon, heap on a hot platter 
and garnish with the whole yolks, or rub them through a sieve, 
add one tablespoon of butter, two tablespoons potted ham, one 
raw egg yolk, shape in balls again and poach or fry in butter. 

Beauregard. 

Cook four eggs twenty minutes, make a white sauce with one 
cup milk, one tablespoon butter, one tablespoon cornstarch; lay 
six small squares of buttered toast on a dish, cover it with 
white sauce, then sprinkle with the whites chopped fine and 
the yolks pressed through a ricer. 

Ox Eyes. 

Take slices an inch thick from good light bread and cut 
rounds with a three inch cutter, cut a smaller ring one and a 
half inch and scoop out enough to take in an egg; brush with 
butter and crisp in a quick oven. Break a fresh egg in each, 
season with salt and pepper, moisten with one tablespoon 
cream and put in oven till set. 

Pickled Eggs. 

Six hard-boiled eggs, with four whole cloves stuck in each ; 
rub together one-half teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon pepper, 
one-half teaspoon mustard with a little cold vinegar; let one 
pint vinegar come to the boil, add the spice and cook one min- 
ute, pour boiling hot over the eggs, in a glass jar, cover closely. 
They will be ready to use in about two weeks. A few pieces of 
boiled beet in the vinegar will turn them a pretty pink. These 
are nice for picnics and lunches, or to accompany broiled beef- 
steak. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



47 



Spanish Ham and Eggs. 

Prepare three slices of 'Anno Bitter," page 62, (the bread 
may be cut in six rounds before frying.) Mix one cup of minced 
ham and one-third of a cup of soft bread crumbs with cream to 
moisten, or with the remaining custard. Heat it and season 
with cayenne. Spread this mixture on each slue, making a 
Slight hollow with the back of the spoon to hold the egg. (look 
six eggs as directed, page 45. Put a wholeegg on each slice and 
serve at once. 

Whipped Eggs. 

Beat three eggs till light and pour into one quart fast boiling 
sailed water; stir -vigorously for two minutes, drain in a hue 
sieve, turn out on a hot platter ami garnish with crisp bacon. 
It may also be served on buttered toast. 

Golden Balls. 

Have a Scotch bowl of hot fat. Stir carefully round and 
round until the fat hollows in the center, drop a very fresh egg 
ml o this hollow from a cup and keep up the circular motion of 
the fat for two minutes or less if the fat is quite hot; lay the 
egg on a paper and set where it will keep warm but will not 
harden. Only one can be done at a time and a little practice is 
required to get them smooth, but they make a most effective 
garnish for hash at breakfast, or for spinach at dinner. 

Egg Timbales. 

Six eggs, one and a half cups of milk, one teaspoon of salt, 
one eigth teaspoon of pepper, one teaspoon of chopped parsley 
ami one-fourth teaspoon of onion juice. Break the eggs into 
a bowl and beat well, add the seasoning and beat one minute 
longer; add the milk and stir well. Butter eight timbale 
molds of medium size and pour the mixture into them. Set 
them into a deep pan and pour in enough hot water to come 
almost to the top of the molds; place in a moderate oven and 
cook until firm in the center, from twelve to fifteen minutes; 
turn out on a warm dish and pour a cream or tomato sauce 
around them and garnish with small sprays of parsley stuck 
into each timbale. 

SALADS. 
French Dressing. 

Put into a tablespoon one saltspoon salt, one-half pepper- 
spoon pepper and fill with oil; mix well together and pour it 
over the salad; add two tablespoons more of oil and toss the 
salad well, lastly add one tablespoon sharp vinegar. Sufficient 
for six persons if used on green salad; for cooked vegetables 
use twice or three times the measure. 

Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Put into a cold bowl the yolks of three eggs and beat until 
they are very light and thick; add one level teaspoon of salt, 
half saltspoon of cayenne and a few drops of olive oil; continue 
beating until it is too thick to turn the beater easily, add lemon 
juice to thin it, alternate with more oil until two tablespoons of 
lemon juice have been added; then add vinegar to the same 
amount. Use just enough oil to make the sauce of the right 
consistence. Mayonnaise will keep indefinitely if kept air-tight 
in a dark place. If preferred, use all vinegar and no lemon 
juice, or all lemon juice and no vinegar. 

White Mayonnaise. 

One-half cup highly seasoned veal jelly whipped to a stiff 
froth. Add slowly one-half pint oil, six tablespoons tarragon 
vinegar, one-half teaspoon salt, one-quarter teaspoon white 
pepper, one-half saltspoon sugar, dust of cayenne. Set into a 
bowl of ice water and beat till stiff enough to keep its form 
when dropped from a spoon. 

Salad Dressing Without Oil. 

Two eggs, one tablespoon mixed mustard, one-half teaspoon 
salt, a piece of butter the size of an egg, three tablespoons of 
vinegar, one tablespoon sugar. Beat the eggs, then add the 
mustard, salt and sugar, beat a little more, then add the melted 
butter and the vinegar. Set the bowl over boiling water and 
stir constantly until thick and smooth. Use cold; add a cup of 
whipped cream, the last thing.— Mrs. Isaac Gale, Natick, Mass. 

Bacon Fat Dressing. 

Cut one-fourth pound very fat bacon or ham into small dice. 

J'ry gently till the oil turns a light brown color; remove from 
he lire and add one-third vinegar to two-thirds bacon fat. 
Pour over a salad already seasoned with pepper, salt and such 
herbs as are wished. If the bits of bacon are objectionable 
pour through a strainer, but their savory crispness is generally 
an improvement. 



Melted Butter Dressing. 

Put the yolks of two raw eggs with an ounce of butter in a 
nice pan ami set by the side of the lire, si ir rapidly until the 
butter is melted and the sauce begins to thicken; draw the pan 
away from the lire, add another ounce of butter and conti 
working to a cream, repeat with two more ounces of butter, add 
pepper and salt to taste and pour into a sauce-bowl. A few 
leaves of tarragon finely chopped and a squeeze of lemon should 
be added just before serving. 

Potato Salad Dressing. 

Rub two mealy potatoes to a paste with one raw egg yolk, 
season with salt and pepper, thin with vinegar. A little oil 
rubbed in before adding all the vinegar is a great improvement. 
— Tlios. J. Murrey. 

Boiled Dressing. 
Cook one teaspoon of Hour in one tablespoon of butter two 
minutes; add half teaspoon each of sugar, salt and mustard, 
and one-fourth saltspoon of cayenne, then pour into it slowly 
one-half cup of boiling hot vinegar, then one egg beaten smooth, 
beating thoroughly while pouring into the liquid. Cook one 
minute and set away to cool; thin it with cream when readv to 
use. In summer use cream that is just a little sour. This 
dressing should be made a little thinner for potato salad than 
for any other. This is particularly nice for cold slaw, and 
should be poured hot over the chopped cabbage. 

Cream Salad Dressing. 

Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste; 
add gradually to them one teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon 
sugar, one-half saltspoon cayenne, one teaspoon mustard and 
two tablespoons vinegar; have one pint cream very cold and 
whip it till thick and smooth; beat this, a tablespoon at a time, 
into the mixture with a whisk. 

Lobster Salad Dressing. 

Remove the green fat and pink gravy from a boiled lobster. 
Rub to a smooth paste with the yolk of one raw and one hard- 
boiled egg. Season with salt and pepper, a little mustard if 
liked and as much oil as will blend smoothly. Thin with lemon 
juice. Crawfish and crabs furnish a large amount of creamy 
paste that is excellent when treated in the same way, to be used 
for itself or other fish. 

Almond Salad Dressing. 

Blanch and peel twelve sweet and four bitter almonds, soak 
them in cold water an hour, drain and pound in a mortar with 
a few drops of lemon juice, salt and pepper enough to season 
well. Add by degrees a few spoons of sherry, to make it the 
consistency of thin cream. This is good on sliced fruits. 

Chicken Salad. 

Cut cold chicken, roasted is best, into quarter inch dice. 
Use only the breast and tender fillets from the thighs. Marin- 
ate a pint with once the measure of French dressing and set 
away to season and chill. At serving time add an equal bulk 
of diced celery, and enough mayonnaise to moisten thoroughly. 
Arrange on a bed of torn lettuce and garnish with cress or tiny 
gherkius or stoned olives. Drop a large spoon of mayonnaise 
on top and fringe it round with the finest celery tips. 

Veal Salad. 

The meat may very well be the remainder of a roast of the 
previous day. Trim away carefully all fat and gristle and cut 
in dice. Serve with lettuce and a French dressing, or a more 
elaborate mayonnaise, as one prefers. Garden cress or pepper- 
grass is a good addition. 

' Oyster Salad. 

For a one pound can or a solid pint of oysters use the follow- 
ing dressing: Beat well two eggs, add to "them one-fourth cup 
each of cream and vinegar, one-half teaspoon each of mus- 
tard, celery salt and salt, a dust of cayenne, one tablespoon 
butter. Put into double boiler and cook like soft custard. Par- 
boil the oysters, drain them and add the dressing. Set away to 
cool and at serving time add one pint diced celery. 

Deep Sea Salad. 

Make ready a block of ice as for raw oysters, only with a 
deeper hole, to contain the salad. Preparean oyster salad as 
directed. Arrange a bed of parsley and celery tips around the 
block of ice, placing large clam shells at each end to hold extra 
mayonnaise; pour the salad into the hole and garnish with 
brussels sprouts and olives cut in spirals. 



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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



I 



Scallop Salad. 

Scald the scallops in salted boiling water for three minutes. 
When cold, cut each one in two. Put these in a salad bowl and 
dress with French dressing and crisp, young lettuce leaves. 

Lobster Salad. 

Chop the meat rather fine, season highly, especially with salt 
and mustard. Pour over French dressing or some mayonnaise 
well thinned with vinegar, and set away to season through. 
At serving time add about one-half its bulk of lettuce stalks 
and Arm leaves broken small, mix in plenty of mayonnaise and 
serve in the cleaned shells. Garnish with small lettuce leaves 
and the small claws, or if canned fish is used, serve on a bed of 
torn lettuce, garnishing as before. Shrimps, crabs and crawfish 
are prepared in the same way. 

Fish Salad. 

Break cold cooked halibut or any white delicate fish into con- 
venient pieces, removing all skin, bones and fat, marinate with 
tarragon or spiced vinegar and set one side for an hour; arrange 
on leaves of lettuce and serve with mayonnaise or sauce tartare. 

Chopped Cabbage. 

Select a fine, white cabbage, or if preferred, use a red cabbage. 
Shred very fine with a sharp knife. Heap in a dish, pour over 
it a dressing made by stirring together one tablespoon salad 
oil or melted butter, a little salt and pepper, and one-half tea- 
cup good vinegar. Mix well through the cabbage when ready 
to serve. Or use boiled dressing. 

Bean Salad. 

One cup of beans soaked over night, in the morning pour 
off the water, put enough fresh water on them to boil until 
thoroughly done. When cool, add an onion about the size of 
an English walnut chopped very fine, and moisten the whole 
with a mayonnaise dressing seasoned rather highly with salt, 
pepper, cayenne and mustard. 

Potato Salad. 

For each quart of cold baked or boiled potatoes, allow one 
cucumber, one cup of diced celery, and one measure of boiled 
dressing. In mixing do not stir, but lift carefully and turn 
over. 

Hungarian Potato Salad. 

Take small potatoes, boil, and peel while warm. Slice very 
thin. To every pint of potatoes mince one small onion, one 
pickled beet, one fresh cucumber sliced, a Dutch herring, four 
sardines, and a spoonful of minced cold boiled ham. Mix all 
together and pour over a teacup of vinegar. Garnish with 
walnut pickles. 

German Potato Salad. 

Choose small potatoes; imported ones are best, but new pota- 
toes will do if carefully cooked and well drained. Peel them 
and set aside to cool while making the following dressing: 
Cut one-quarter pound fat bacon into smallest possible dice, 
put them into a frying pan over a slow fire; shred an onion 
into a large bowl, add a small tablespoon of salt, one cup of 
vinegar and hot water (half and half). When the fat is a light 
brown color and the dice well crisped, add two tablespoons of 
salad oil and pour it into the vinegar and onion, turning in 
slowly at first lest it spatter. Slice the potatoes as thin as pos- 
sible, stirring often; if the salad is too dry, add a little hot 
water from time to time. It should have a glossy look, with- 
out being either lumpy or greasy. If it looks good, it is pretty 
sure to taste good. Best eaten as soon as made. 

Mixed Vegetable Salads. 

Vegetable salads can be made of any kind of cooked veg- 
etables, but some kinds combine better than others. Peas, 
string or shell beans, cauliflower, asparagus and young carrots 
combine well, turnips, carrots, beets, cabbage, spinach,, toma- 
toes, make another combination, but it is generally best 'to use 
potatoes for the body of the salad, adding other vegetables to 
give color and flavor. A large variety of vegetables is known 
as "Salade Macedoine," or sometimes Russian salad. Each 
vegetable should be cooked and cut separately, then mixed 
lightly in a bowl with French dressing and set on ice to cool 
before serving. Rub the salad bowls with a cut onion before 
arranging the salad, and if it is liked very moist and highly 
seasoned, double the quantity of dressing or send a bowl of 
mayonnaise to the table with it. Garnish with nasturtium in 
the season and cut them up with the salad. Sliced gherkins, 

>- nickled beets, marinated eggs, Thon Marine make savory 

ornamishes. 



Celery Knobs. 

The solid part at the bottom of celerv plants, scraped, 
boiled till tender and served with French dressing are excellent, 
being much more delicate than the celery root. (Celeriac.) 

Cauliflower Salad. 

Separate the sprigs of cold boiled cauliflower, put into the 
salad dish a head of lettuce and cover it with mayonnaise. 
Arrange the cauliflower sprigs around the dish heads outward 
and serve. 



Artichoke Bottoms. 



Those prepared by Dunbar and sold at all well supplied 
groceries will answer as well as the fresh. Drain from the 
liquor in the can and season with oil, salt, pepper and vinegar, 
set on ice and at serving time lay a small shape of truffled pate 
de foie gras (also canned) on each one, or sprinkle with grated 
cheese. Good either with or without mayonnaise. 

Breakfast Salad. 

Scald two ripe tomatoes, peel them, put them in cold water 
or fine ice to become cold; drain, and either slice or divide into 
sections. Peel and slice very thin one cucumber; line a salad 
bowl with crisp lettuce leaves, add the tomatoes and cucumber, 
a teaspoon of minced parsley, with a few blades of chives, if 
possible add a few green tarragon leaves. Over all pour a plain 
salad dressing of olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. 

Tomato and Cucumber Salad. 

Peel as many small ripe tomatoes as there are to be covers. 
Remove the hearts and set on ice to become cold. Pare cucum- 
bers quite close to the seeds and chop them coarsely. Pour 
over a French dressing and fill them lightly into the tomatoes. 
Serve each on a crisp lettuce leaf. 

Farmers' Salad. 

In spring and early summer the tender plants of dandelion 
are a most appetizing and wholesome salad. Pick over and 
wash carefully, lay in ice cold water four hours to become crisp. 
Break coarsely and serve with bacon dressing. 

Murrey recommends adding fresh made cottage cheese, salt, 
pepper, vinegar and young onions. 

Water Cress Salad. 

Water cress is a very acceptable spring salad plant, and its 
pungent flavor is considered a good whet for jaded palates. 
A plain salad dressing is the most appropriate. Small herbs, 
such as chives, borage, chervil, etc., may be added if liked. 

Chicory Salad. 

Select two fine heads of chicory; cut off the root end and 
reject all green and all decayed leaves; wash the white leaves 
in cold water and dry them in a napkin. Rub a salad bowl 
with a clove of garlic, put the crisp white leaves in the bowl. 
Toss the salad gently with French dressing, then add a table- 
spoon of vinegar, toss again and serve. A little chervil, borage 
or chives will improve it for many palates. 

Salad in Jelly. 

Make aspic jelly No. 1. Fill bottom of salad dish with a little 
of the jelly and set on ice. "When hard set in the salad dish on 
top of the jelly, a bowl large enough to hold the desired amount 
of salad, and fill bowl with ice; pour jelly around until almost 
reaching the top of bowl, when the jelly is hard remove ice 
from bowl and fill with warm water for a moment only; then 
remove bowl from jelly, being careful not to break the jelly. 
Make any of the ordinary salads, such as chicken, veal, lobster, 
shrimp or nice red tomatoes sliced with a little green, as celery, 
lettuce, etc., mixed through here and there. Place salad in the 
space left in the jelly and cover salad with the remaining jelly; 
after it has become a little hard set aside in ice box. When 
wanted set dish in warm water a moment and turn salad out on 
a platter; have a mayonnaise dressing ready to serve with 
salad. Remember in making this salad the bottom of dish 
will be the top when turned out. 

This is especially pretty to be arranged in a border mold, and 
after turning out fill the center with more of the meat mixed 
with mayonnaise. 

Devonshire Salad. 

Choose soft, yet firm curd of cottage cheese, cut in inch dice, 
season with salt, pepper and cayenne and serve on lettuce with 
mayonnaise. Garnish with nasturtium. 






WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



49 



Strawberry Salad. 

Choose the heart leaves of head lettuce, heap a few straw- 
berries in each and dust them lightly with powdered sugar; lay 
a teaspoon of mayonnaise on each portion and serve cut lemons 
with them ; delicious for lunch. 

Orange Salad. 

For six persons pare four rather acid oranges, slice them 
very thin, cutting down the sides instead of across, and sprinkle 
sparingly with sugar. Mix one tablespoon sherry with one of 
yellow Chartreuse and one of lemon juice and pour it over the 
fruit, Set on ice an hour before using. Serve before the game 
course. 

Fruit Salad. 

Half pound of almonds, blanched and grated, four oranges, 
pared and sliced, one can of pineapple grated, three bananas, or 
peaches, pears, French cherries, strawberries or other fruits, in 
like proportion. Alternate the layers of fruit with layers of 
powdered sugar, and reserve the almonds for the top layer, to be 
garnished with strawberries or other small bright fruits; then 
add the following dressing, and cool: 

Half cup of lemon juice, two tablespoons of sherry and two 
tablespoons of liqueur, preferably Maraschino. 

Cranberries can be used instead of strawberries, if stewed 
until quite soft, with a good deal of sugar. 

Grated cocoanut can be used instead of almonds. 

Fig Salad. 

Put into a salad bowl half a pint of honey; add to this twenty 
five fresh figs; whip one quart cream, flavored with one table- 
spoon brandy. 



SAVORIES. 
Digestibility of Cheese. 

The digestibility of cheese depends a good deal, according to 
Klenz6, on its physical properties. All fat cheeses are dissolved 
or digested with great rapidity, because the molecules of case- 
ine are separated by the fat, and so the solvent juice can 
attack a large surface of the cheese at one time. Whether the 
cheese be hard or soft does not appear to matter, and there is 
no connection between the digestibility and the percentage of 
water present in the cheese. The degree of ripeness and the 
amount of fat have, however, considerable influence; for both 
these conditions render the cheese more friable, and so allow 
intimate contact with the juices of digestion. Cheddar takes 
the shortest time to digest, four hours; while unripe Swiss 
cheese took ten hours for solution. 

In cooking cheese in any form it is well to add bi-carbonate 
of potash in the proportion of one-fourth saltspoon to four 
ounces of cheese. This restores the potash salts lost from the 
milk in the process of cheese making, and renders it more 
digestible. 

Cheese Souffle. 

Make a thin, white sauce, with one teaspoon butter, two and 
one-half table spoons flour, three-quarters pint milk; add four 
ounces cheese grated and mixed with the yolks of four eggs, 
fold in the stiffly beaten whites and bake at once in paper cases 
or scallop shells. 

Cheese au Gratin. 

Three slices bread, trim off the crust and butter well. Place 
in a deep pudding dish, buttered side down, and lay one-quarter 
pound of chipped or grated cheese between the slices and on 
top, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste (about one-quarter 
teaspoon salt and a dust of cayenne). Beat four eggs, add 
three cups milk, pour it over the "bread and let stand one hour 
or more. Bake twenty to thirty minutes in a rather quick 
oven. 

Cottage Cheese. (Schmier-Kiise.) 
Set a gallon or more of thick sour milk into warm water or 
■n a warm oven until it reaches a temperature of 180° (Fahr.). 
T&i it stand at that temperature for an hour or more, until the 
■S-hev is well separated and the curd feels firm all the way through. 
Turn gently on to a coarse thin clo.h and hang up to drain several 
hours. Turn from the bag and chop in dice, dressing with salt 
and cream, either sweet or sour, according to taste; or mix salt 
and cream through the mass, working it fine with the hands. 



Welsh Rabbit. 

Take one-half pound cheese (American cheese preferred), 
three tablespoons ale, a thin slice of toast; grate the cheese 
ane, put it to the ale, and work it in a small saucepan over a 
slow lire till it is melted, spread it on toast and serve hot. (If 
ale is not at hand, use beer or milk.) 

Welsh Rabbit an Gratin. 

Prepare six slices thin toast. Cover each slice with Swiss 
cheese cut half inch thick. Lay them in a dripping-pan and 
dust lightly with pepper or spread made mustard over. Set in 
a hot oven till well melted, about ten minutes. The addition of 
a dropped egg to each slice makes what is called a Golden Buck. 

Nalenikis. 

Prepare as above, but dip each one in fritter batter and fry 
to delicate brown. Dry for a few minutes in the oven.— Helen 
Campbell. 

Cheese Fritters. 

Pre D are fritter batter No. 3, add to it eight heaping table- 
spoons of dry grated cheese, fry according to directions and 
serve with a little grated cheese sprinkled over. 

Ramaquins. 

4 tablespoons grated cheese. 2 ounces bread, grated. 
2 tablespoons butter. J teaspoon mustard. 

1 gill milk Cayenne and salt to taste. 

Yolks two'eggs. Whites three eggs. 

Put bread and mdk to boil until smooth, stirring often; add 
cheese and butter and remove from the fire. As soon as the 
butter has melted stir in the yolks of the eggs and seasoning. 
Let cool a little before adding the stiffly beaten whites. Bake 
in small china dishes and serve at once as they soon fall.— M rs. 
Henderson. 

Anchovy Toast. 

Six anchovies, two hard boiled eggs, two ounces butter, six 
croutes of bread, cayenne, lemon juice. Wash and bone the 
anchovies, and pound them to a paste with the egg yolk, butter 
and cayenne; for extra fine ones, run through a puree sieve. 
Fry rounds of bread, spread with the above paste, and spread 
over them the whites of the egg chopped very fine. 

Devilled Toast. 

Have the bread toasted crisp, and hard crust removed. Beat 
together one teaspoon butter, one-half teaspoon mustard, a few 
grains cayenne, one teaspoon Worcestershire sauce. Spread on 
the toast, cut in strips and set in the oven to become very hot 
before serving. 

Savory Toast. 

Made like the above with sardines, herring, or even mackerel, 
is extremely good. A dash of lemon juice is an improvement 
to most kinds of fish. 

Ham Toast. 

Three ounces lean ham, one ounce butter, chopped parsley, 
pepper and salt to taste. Mince ham very fine, put it into a 
stewpan with the butter and seasoning. Shake until it comes 
to the boiling point. Serve at once on buttered toast. 

Clam Toast. 

Chop two dozen small clams into small pieces: simmer a few 
minutes. Beat the yolks of two eggs, add a little cayenne and 
a gill of warmed milk. Pour into the clams, let come to the 
point of simmering, pour over buttered toast and serve. 

Cheese Toast. 

Mince the cheese fine, season to taste with salt, cayenne and 
mustard, and spread thickly over buttered bread. Set under 
the gas broiler or into a very hot oven until well browned. 
Serve at once. 

Tomato Toast. 

Two tomatoes, two eggs, one ounce butter, one ounce ham, 
a scrap of onion, pepper and salt. Six small rounds of but- 
tered toast. Wipe and chop the tomatoes well. Mince the 
onion and ham, and cook them with the butter in a saiicepan 
about ten minutes, remove from the fire to add the beaten egg, 
stir over the fire till it sets, then serve on the toast. 




If the housekeeper who is so tired of the same old way of 
preparing vegetables would only study the art of cooking she 
need never want for variety. 

A little patience and skill, the use of good judgment, and a 
proper degree of industry will render the task easy. 

Such a number of dishes may be readily made that all house- 
keepers should see that several vegetables appear daily on their 
tables. 

Artichokes. 

Cut the stalks close and clip the sharp points from the leaves; 
wash in vinegar and water and lay in cold salted water for an 
hour to drive out insects. Cook in boiling salted water till 
tender enough to draw out the leaves easily, about forty 
minutes, but they must not go to pieces. Turn them upside 
down to drain. Serve hot with Bechamel or Hollandaise sauce, 
or cold with French dressing. To keep them green tie some 
charcoal in muslin and boil with them. 

Artichokes a la Barigoule. 

Wash as above, parboil just long enough to remove the choke 
and throw them into cold water for five minutes. Put them to 
drain while preparing a forcemeat. Mince fine four ounces fat 
pork and fry it a little with two tablespoons chopped shallots; 
then add a pint of chopped mushrooms and parsley and simmer 
ten minutes. Blend with it one tablespoon flour kneaded with 
butter, one-half cup Spanish sauce, salt, pepper and a speck of 
nutmeg. Fill the artichokes and tie them with a string. 
Brown the outside well with a little olive oil in a sautoir; then 
add one-half pint broth and a small glass white wine. Cover 
and cook forty minutes in a moderate hot oven. Serve in a hot 
dish, pouring the sauce over and around them. Place a whole 
mushroom on top of each.— Adapted from "The Table." 

Jerusalem Artichokes. 

Wash and boil with the skins on in salted water till tender 
(about thirty minutes). Drain, peel and serve in cream sauce 
No. 1, seasoning very well. Let them lie in the sauce for 
fifteen minutes to season before serving. 

Au Gratin. 
Boil as above and proceed as for cauliflower. 

Baked. 

Boil until about half done, then peel and put into a baking- 
dish with one tablespoon butter, salt and pepper to taste. Dust 
with one teaspoon powdered sugar and bake a good brown. 
Baste with butter after it begins to brown. 

Puree. 

Cook in strong broth instead of water. Peel and put through 
a puree sieve, season with salt, butter and pepper and serve 
with braised beef, veal or chicken. 

Asparagus, No. 1. 

Wash carefully two bunches green asparagus, cut the ends 
until the tender part is reached. Arrange in one large bundle 
and fasten with a broad band of coarse muslin, pinned at each 
side. Boil gently in salted water until done, about twenty 
minutes. Serve with Hollandaise sauce. 

Asparagus, No. 2. 
Cut the tender parts in bits as long as the stems are thick 
and boil till tender. Drain and add to two bunches one-half 
cup cream, one-quarter teaspoon salt. Simmer till reduced to 
a thick sauce and serve like green peas. 



Asparagus with Eggs. 

Boil two pounds of the vegetables; cut off the tender tops I 
and lay them on a buttered pie-dish, seasoning with pepper and 
salt and two tablespoons of melted butter. Beat four eggs just 
enough to break the yolks, and pour over the asparagus. Bake 
eight minutes in a good oven and serve with slices of tender 
broiled ham.; 

"Asparagus in Ambush." 

Have ready some small, light rolls — one for each guest. 
Cut off the tops to serve as covers; take out all the crumb and 
lay the rolls in the oven for their tops to crisp. Meanwhile 
heat a cup of milk to boiling point and pour it into two beaten 
eggs, beating well to prevent curdling; add a spoon of butter, 
cut in bits and rolled in flour, and the soft parts of two pounds 
of asparagus that has been boiled and cut fine. Stir the 
mixture, seasoning to taste; fill the roll, put on the tops and 
serve hot. 

String Beans. 

Snap, rather than cut with a knife, into pieces one-half inch 
long. Unless they are very fresh they will be improved by 
lying in ice-cold water an hour or more before cooking. Throw 
into fast boiling water and cook rapidly, uncovered, for an hour 
at least; they will generally need much more. Change the 
water at the end of the first half hour and they will season 
better if an ounce or two of fat salt meat is cooked with them. 
The water should be allowed to nearly all cook away and the 
remainder may be used to make a drawn butter sauce to pour 
over them; or they may be seasoned with only butter and salt. 
If the water is very hard, a bit of bi-carbonate of soda as large 
as a pea will make them more tender. 

String Beans, German Fashion. 

Remove the strings from one quart of beans. Cut each pod 
through twice lengthwise, then cut into two-inch lengths. 
After parboiling, put into the stewpan an ounce of butter, a 
teaspoon sugar, pepper and salt to taste. Saute a few minutes 
till the butter is absorbed, then add a very little stock or water, 
a little lemon juice, and simmer until perfectly tender. 

Shelled Beans. 

Wash, and cook in boiling soft water. Add salt about ten 
minutes before they are done. Drain, and season with butter 
and salt. Lima and other white beans are improved by adding 
a little butter or fat salt pork. 

Lima Beans. 

Add to a pint of young Lima beans previously boiled and 
seasoned with butter, salt and pepper, half a pint of freshly 
gathered mushrooms. Put a tablespoon of butter in the sauce- 
pan; when melted add beans and mushrooms, with half a gill 
of cream; let it all simmer for about ten minutes, and serve hot. 

Dried Lima beans can be made quite palatable by soaking 
them in cold water for 48 hours, and then cooking like the 
green ones. They will do very nicely for succotash. 

Mother's Baked Beans. 

One quart of navy beans; pick over carefully and soak i 
night. In the morning, put on the back of the stove, and co'V 
with boiling water. After they have parboiled half an hou 
take up a spoonful and blow on them; if the skin curls back, 
they are clone. Put them in a colander, and pour a dipper of 
cold water through them. Take a deep earthen bean pot hold- 
ing two quarts; put in some of the beans, then half a pound of 



, 4 

hoi. 
back. " 






WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



51 



salt pork, — "a streak of fat and a streak of lean" (the pork 
must be washed with warm water and gashed across the top) — 
then (ill up with beans. Take one teaspoon of salt, half a tea- 
spoon of mustard, and two teaspoons of molasses; dissolve in 
hot water and pour over the beans; then fill the pot with hot 
water. They must be baked six hours, and as much longer as 
you please. Whenever the water cooks away, fill the pot again, 
until nearly done, then let the water cook away. 

Beets. 

Brush and scrub well, but do not cut. Lay into boiling 
water and boil rapidly till tender, for new beets about 45 min- 
utes, for old beets two to three hours. Plunge into cold water 
and slip the skins off by hand. Cut in eighths lengthwise, and 
pour over a sauce made with two tablespoons butter, four 
tablespoons lemon juice, one-half teaspoon salt, sprinkle cay- 
enne, boil up once and pour hot over the beats just before they 
go to the table. 

Brussels Sprouts. 

Cut the sprouts from two medium sized stalks, pick off all 
tarnished leaves, and lay them for an hour in salted water. 
Drain them well and cook in plenty of boiling water, uncovered, 
till tender, from ten minutes to half an hour, according to their 
age. Drain in a colander and serve with a Bechamel or Hol- 
landaise sauce. 

Brocculi. 

Cook like Brussels sprouts, and while draining prepare three- 
fourths pint of yellow Bechamel. Lay a slice of buttered toast 
in a deep platter, arrange the largest head in the middle and 
smaller ones around it. Pour the sauce over and around them. 

Cucumbers Stuffed and Stewed. 

Cut in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and fill the hollow 
with a bread or meat stuffing, or with quenelle mixture. Lay in 
a sautoir, with butter enough to keep from sticking. Simmer 
till the juice Mows freely, then add a little good broth, and boil 
gently till very tender. Lift the slices, reduce the juice to a 
glaze, which may be dissolved in enough velvet sauce to cover. 

Fried Cucumbers. 

Slice, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip ia egg, then in 
cracker dust; fry brown. 

Cabbage. 

Choose a cabbage like an orange, by its weight. Remove the 
outside coarse leaves, cut in quarters, take out the inner etem, 
especially the coarse fibers that run between the leaves and the 
stem; lay it face down in salted water for an hour — longer if 
old and wilted; boil in pleuty of water, three quarts of water 
to two pounds of cabbage, drain and fill again with boiling 
water, cook till tender, when young and crisp forty minutes, 
longer if old. Drain in a colander; cut, turn and press 
repeatedly, keeping hot in an oven. Dress as desired. 

No. 1. Allow one tablespoon butter to each pound of cab- 
bage; salt, vinegar and cayenne to taste. 

No. 2. One cup of cream sauce No. 1 to each pound. 

No. 3. One cup brown sauce (made like white sauce), but let 
the butter and flour brown a little and use good brown stock 
for milk. 

No. 4 Put the cooked cabbage in a buttered baking dish 
after chopping line and seasoning with salt, pepper and two 
beaten eggs diluted with three tablespoons cream, bake in a 
quick oven till brown. Serve hot. 

No. 5. Au gratin. Put one pint plain boiled cabbage in a 
baking dish well buttered, pour over one good cup white sauce, 
cover with buttered crumbs and grated cheese if liked. Serve 
in the same dish. 

No. fi, stuffed. Parboil till thoroughly wilted, drain, cool, 
unfold leaf by leaf until the heart is reached. Chop the tender 
leaves and add to the stuffing. Two ounces fat salt pork, two 
ounces tender beef, both chopped fine, one ounce butter, two 
egg yolks, a scant teaspoon each of salt, parsley and minced 
onion, one pepperspoon cayenne, one French roll soaked in 
milk and pressed dry. Beat the egg and bread together, add 
the creamed butter and work in the meat and seasoning. Make 
into a ball and place in the cabbage head, refold the leaves to 
good shape and bake three to four hours, basting often with 
butter and a little water. Serve on a round platter with the 
. -ravy from the pan, dashed with lemon juice. Cut like around 
i^.-af cake. 

Spring Carrots. 

Wash and scrape them, parboil for ten minutes and dry them 
on a cloth. Return to the saucepan with one heaped tablespoon 
'sugar, one cup stock, one tablespoon butter, and boil gently 
about half an hour or until perfectly tender then remove the 



Lf 

w 



cover and boil fast until the stock is reduced to glaze. Sprinkle 
with a little chopped parsley and serve with the, glaze on them. 
These can be reheated in a white sacue and are even better 
than at first. 

Puree of Carrots. 

Slice fine the outer part of a dozen carrots, one and a half pints 
is enough, parboil ten minutes, drain, and cook gently again 
till tender with one pint water, one teaspoon each salt and 
sugar, and one-fourth teaspoon white pepper; add one-half 
pound stale bread, broken into bits, and one quart veal or 
chicken broth, simmer another hour, put it through a puree 
sieve; if too soft allow it to cook away longer, if too dry add a 
little broth or milk. Serve with breast of lamb, chops, or veal 
cutlets. 

Cauliflower. 

Trim off outside leaves and lay blossoms down in cold salted 
water. Slugs and other insects will drop out, especially if 
gently shaken in the water. Tie in a piece of mosquito netting 
and lay in boiling salted water till very tender. Drain and 
serve with Hollandaise Sauce or Cream Sauce No. 1. This 
makes a delicious garnish for fried spring chicken or fried 
sweet breads. 

Cauliflower with Parmesan cheese is made as above, adding 
a teaspoon of Parmesan cheese to the sauce before it is poured 
over the cauliflower; sprinkle melted butter over it and bake a 
few minutes in a hot oven. 

Stewed Celery. 

Take ten or twelve heads of well-grown celery, cut off the 
sticks about three inches above the root, and put the root for a 
few minutes into salt and water, and afterwards place them in 
a stew-pan with an onion and a bouquet of herbs; cover them 
with stock, and cook gently till tender. Boil the stock to re- 
duce it and pass it through a strainer; add sugar, salt and a 
little pepper, and pour over the celery, which should be 
arranged in the manner of cutlets on a dish. 

Celery Fried in Batter. 

Take small roots, or divide large ones otherwise; trim the 
root portion smooth, and cut the stalks down to four or five 
inches long. Cook ten minutes in boiling salted water, dry 
quickly on a thick towel. Dip them in fritter batter and fry a 
good brown in deep hot fat. Drain on soft paper, arrange on a 
folded napkin and send to the table with grated cheese. 

Broiled Cepes. 

Open the can and pour off the oil. Drop the cepes into hot 
water to cleanse them from the oil and dry them on a soft 
cloth. Season w 7 ith salt and pepper, brush them with melted 
butter and roll in flour. Broil for six minutes over a hot fire. 
Place each one on a round of toast, pour over a little melted 
butter and lemon juice and serve at once. 

Stewed Cepes. 

Free from oil as before and cut into cubes. For a pint can 
use three tablespoons butter, one tablespoon flour, one table- 
spoon lemon juice, one teaspoon salt, one teaspoon onion juice, 
a dust of pepper and one-half pint stock. Melt the butter and 
add the cepes and flour. Stir until a light coffee brown, then 
add the stock and seasoning and set back to simmer five 
minutes. If this is to be served as an entree, arrange on toast; 
they make a delicious garnish for broiled fish. 

Green Corn. 

This most delicious of summer vegetables is frequently 
spoiled by over-cooking. If the corn is fresh and tender as it 
should be fifteen minutes is enough. Wrap at once in a thick 
napkin and send to table covered, as the skin toughens if allowed 
to dry while hot. It is sometimes cooked in the inner husk, 
but this is not necessary except for roasting. 

Corn Pagout. 

Cut scraps of ham or bacon in small squares; fry brown, add 
six ripe tomatoes peeled and sliced, and the grains cut from six 
ears of corn; cover with boiling water, season with red pepper 
and salt, and cook slowly half an hour. Serve hot with toast 
or slices of fried bread. 

Succotash. 

Cut the grains from ten ears of corn, mix with one quart of 
shelled Lima beans, and boil until tender, and drain. Melt 
two tablespoons of butter and pour on the corn and beans. 
Season with pepper and salt. Let simmer ten minutes; pour in 
a cup of sweet cream; when hot serve. 



52 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



I 



Cymlings, or SuThmer Squash. 

Take them when young and tender. Wash, cut in thick 
slices and boil till tender (they should not be old enough to 
have seeds of any size); and prepare as follows: 

Mashed— Press out all the water possible. Make it fine 
and smooth, season to taste with sweet butter, white pepper 
and salt, return to stove and simmer fifteen minutes, stirring 
often. v 

Puree — To each pint of mashed cymling add one cup rich 
milk. Stew until thick; do not let it burn. 

Dolmas — Prepare the squash as above, making the sections 
two inches thick. Scoop out the soft center and fill with this 
mixture: Take equal measures of minced raw mutton and 
raw rice, season to taste — it needs cayenne — and put a bit of 
butter on each. Range them in a buttered sautoir, in which a 
half dozen wafers of onion have cooked. Simmer till tender. 
Beat the yolks of five eggs, dilute with the juice of one lemon, 
pour over the dolmas and shake to mix well with the stock. 
Set over hot water till thick like custard. 

Dandelions. 

Gather only the freshly grown plants — best when the dew is 
on them. The tenderest leaves make an exoellent salad with 
Bacon Dressing. The whole plant, after thorough washing, 
may be boiled until tender, drained, chopped fine, seasoned 
with salt, vinegar and a liberal measure of butter. Those 
Who think it too bitter may use half spinach or beet, or 
sorrel, in which case the dandelion should be partly cooked be- 
fore the more succulent plant is added. It cannot be too well 
recommended. 

Egg Plant Fried. 

Peel and cut them in half inch slices, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, pile them and place a weight over for an hour or more, 
tipping the plate slightly that the juice may drain away. Dry 
each slice by rolling in seasoned Hour, and fry crisp in plenty 
of sweet dripping, or dip in fritter batter No. 1 before frying. 

Greens. 

There is an almost unlimited number of plants used as greens. 
The general treatment is the same for all. See spinach, page 53. 

Lentils. 

May be used for soup or stewed and served with butter the 
same as beans. 

Lentil Sarmas. 

One-half cup lentils, one-half cup rice, one-half cup chopped 
ham, twelve vine leaves, one-half cup chopped raw veal or 
chicken, one-quarter teaspoon powdered coriander seed, salt 
and cayenne to taste; mix well and tie like Sarmas, page 53. 
Serve with a thickened sauce made from the stock in which 
they were boiled, adding well beaten yolks of two eggs and 
a tablespoon tarragon vinegar to each half pint. 

Macaroni. 

One-fourth pound macaroni broken into bits two inches long 
will need at least three quarts of boiling salted water. Boil 
fast, uncovered, until tender, at least half an hour and some 
macaroni takes longer. Drain in a colander and rinse with cold 
water; it is then ready to finish in any way preferred. 

With Cheese. — Arrange alternate layers of cheese and maca- 
roni in a heavily buttered baking dish, pour over a thin white 
sauce or cream, or poulette, or bechamel, or tomato, according 
to taste. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake till the crumbs 
are brown. 

In Cheese Shells.— Fill the empty shell of an Edam or 
pineapple cheese with cooked macaroni, seasoning with grated 
Parmesan, moisten well with thin white sauce and set into a 
hot oven till hot through. Replace the cover and serve very hot. 

With Brown Sauce. — Arrange as for serving with cheese, 
but use Spanish sauce instead of other seasoning. Spaghetti, 
vermicelli and noodles are all prepared and served like macaroni. 

Hominy. 

Soak one cup over night in cold water. In the morning drain 
and put to cook in three cups of boiling salted water and boil 
gently till soft; it ought to take about three hours. Fine hominy 
can be cooked in one hour if soaked in warm water, changing it 
once or twice for warmer. Boil in the last water. 

Mushrooms. 

Mushrooms are often plenty in the fields during the summer 
and fall, and are far superior in delicacy and flavor to the culti- 
vated ones, but they should be used while fresh. Cut off and 
throw away the stems, pare the tops and throw them into a 
bowl with plenty of water and a little vinegar. Use a silver 
knife, and if the vegetables do not blacken the silver they are 
safe to use. 



Stewed Mushrooms. 

Cut them in small bits after draining from the acidulated 
water and for each pint allow a generous tablespoon of butter, 
one-half teaspoon salt, a speck of pepper, and just enough water 
to keep them from sticking to the sauce pan; simmer for ten 
minutes, or, use one-half cup of cream instead of water and 
serve on toast. 

Broiled Mushrooms. 

Select large ones with deep cups. Place over clear coals cup 
side down first and cook two minutes, then turn and cook two 
minutes on the other side, remove carefully not to spill the 
juice and serve on buttered toast. Sprinkle with salt and pep- 
per and lay a bit of butter on each. 

Baked Mushrooms. 

Lay them in a baking dish cup side up. Fill the cups with 
any kind of chopped and seasoned meat. Cover with buttered 
crumbs and bake in a very hot oven ten to fifteen minutes. 

Onions. 

Peel under warm water, cut a small slice from each end and 
let lie in cold water with a pinch of soda for an hour. Put into 
boiling water to cook adding one saltspoon of soda to each 
quart. As soon as they begin to soften change the water and 
finish cooking in salted water. Drain thoroughly and serve 
with bread sauce, or a bechamel, or with only butter, salt and 
pepper. They are excellent baked; for this, choose large ones, 
and after they are parboiled in the soda water, dry them care- 
fully, wrap each one in a buttered paper, lay in a baking-pan and 
cook in a very hot oven till they can be pierced with a straw. 
Serve with Spanish sauce. 

Okra. 

Cut stems to the tender part of the pod, cook whole in boil- 
ing salted water (If cooked in iron they will blacken.) until ten- 
der; drain and return to the sauce pan with plenty of butter, a 
taste of vinegar, salt and pepper; simmer slowly until they are 
thoroughly seasoned. They are nice sliced and stewed with an 
equal bulk of tomato, seasoned with one sweet pepper, one 
teaspoon salt and one ounce of butter to each pint. Sometimes 
one-quarter cup rice and one-quarter pound of diced ham are 
added to a quart of the above stew. 

Fried Okra. 

Slice two onions, and fry with bits of fat bacon. Cut a quart 
of okra and stir in; fry brown. Sprinkle with salt and cayenne 
pepper. — Eliza R. Parker. 

Parsnips. 

Brush clean and lay in cold water to become crisp. Cook in 
boiling salted water till tender. Throw into cold water to slip 
the skins, and serve either plain or mashed; season with butter, 
salt and pepper, or with a thin cream sauce. 

They are more savory if they can be cut in round slices, 
sprinkled with salt, pepper and sugar, and browned in a little 
ham or bacon fat, or dipped in fritter batter No. 2 before 
frying. 

Peas. 

Green peas should never grow to fill the pods quite full. If 
taken while still young and shelled at the last moment before 
cooking, and cooked the same day they are picked, they are 
rightly esteemed one of the best of summer vegetables. If 
the pods are gritty, wash them before shelling, as much of the 
fine flavor is lost by washing the peas. Have ready boiling 
salted water enough to float them, and boil rapidly uncovered 
for fifteen to twenty minutes. Try them and take up the in- 
stant they are done. For one pint of peas, put into the water 
in which they were cooked one ounce of butter, a saitspoon 
each of salt and sugar. Let it reduce until there is just 
enough to moisten the peas well and serve hot. Two or three 
tablespoons of sweet rich cream are sometimes used instead of 
the butter and pea-broth, but it makes them too rich and cloy- 
ing to serve with meat. 

Stuffed Green Peppers. 

Wash half a dozen large green peppers, put them in boiling 
water five minutes, rub off the skins with a wet cloth, cut ol 
the stem, remove the seeds and stuff the peppers with any kinover 
of cold meat minced fine and an equal quantity of stale bread, 'er 
Replace the stems, set the peppers in a deep dish, pour in as t, 
much cold gravy as the dish will hold and bake in a moderate 
oven for half an hour. They may be stuffed with sausage meat 
and bread. Serve in the dish in which they are baked. 






WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



53 



Potato. (New.) 

Wash and scrub well, but do not peel. Put into boiling 
Baited water, enough to cover two inches, and cook rapidly lor 
fifteen to twenty minutes. Pour off all the water, and if the 
potatoes are not quite tender, set them in a hot place, covered, 
to steam until they are. When they are done, sprinkle with 
salt, shake them till the skins crack and serve in a folded nap- 
kin. It is better to pare winter potatoes before cooking them, 
and they are usually better for lying some time in cold water; 
otherwise cook like new potatoes. 

Baked Potatoes should have a thin slice cut from each 
end, as this helps them to become mealy and take away the 
strong earthy taste of "the eyes.' 

Potato Au Gratia. 

Cut cold potato in one-quarter inch dice and arrange in a 
dish, seasoning each layer. Pour over an equal bulk of thin 
Bechamel sauce and bake in a very hot oven till brown. 

Potato Lyonnaise. 

Put two tablespoons of butter into a frying pan, when 
melted add an onion, chopped line; cook two or three minutes; 
add six cold boiled potatoes, sliced, well seasoned with pepper 
and salt; saute a nice light brown. Just before serving, add a 
teaspoon of linely chopped parsley and a few drops lemon juice. 

Potato. (Fried.) 

Cut cold boiled potatoes in slices and season with salt and 
pepper. Have frying pan hot, with just enough dripping to 
cover the bottom. Brown the slices on both sides and keep 
hot till all are fried. These are a delightful garnish for break- 
fast ham. 

Potato, French. (Fried.) 

Pare the potatoes and throw into cold water for at least an 
hour. Cut in slices, blocks, strips, balls or any fancy shape, 
and dry them on a towel. Drop quickly into fat hot enough to 
brown them by the time they come to the surface. They are 
done when they float. Skim into a draining basket and set in 
the oven to keep hot, either as a garnish or for a vegetable. 

Hashed Potatoes. 

Chop cold boiled potatoes, new ones are best, into bits the 
size of a peanut. Season with salt, pepper and chopped 
parsley, and for one quart potato allow three tablespoons butter. 
Heat the butter and toss the potatoes in it till they begin to 
show a little brown, then add one-quarter cup thin cream, and 
set back to brown on the bottom. Fold like an omelet and 
serve, or gather into a mound with the brown crust on top. 

Potato Puff. 

Take two cups mashed potato, stir into it two tablespoons of 
melted butter, beat to a white cream; add two eggs, beaten 
very light; a teacup cream or milk, and salt to taste. Bake in 
a deep dish, in a quick oven, until nicely browned. Take four 
eggs, add the yolks and omelet lirst, then fold in the whites as 
for omelet and it will be an elegant souffle'. 

Potato Croquettes en Surprise. 

Prepare as usual (page 40), but fold in the center of each 
croquette a roll of very creamy chicken croquette paste. 



Plantation Sweet Potato. 

Cut cold cooked sweet potatoes in rather thick slices. 



Put 



them in a deep dish with pepper, salt and butter, pour on a 
little milk, enough to barely show between the pieces, and bake 
in a moderate oven one hour. 

Sugar Potato or Candied Yams. 

Parboil, peel and cut in quarter inch slices. Put the slices 
into a heavy syrup made in the proportion of one cup white 
sugar to one-quarter cup water, and one teaspoon butter. Sim- 
mer gently for an hour, then let the syrup boil away till it is 
almost dry. Serve with meats. 

Rice, Steamed. 

Pour two cups of boiling water on one cup well washed rice, 
add one level teaspoon of salt. Cook in double boiler thirty 
gdnutes, or till soft. If too dry at the end of twenty minutes 
ffdd a little more boiling water. 

Rice, Boiled. 

Have ready four quarts of boiling salted water. Throw in 
one cup rice and let boil fast, uncovered, until the kernels open. 
Brain in a colander, cover with cloth, keep warm twenty 
minutes, shake up light three times. 



Curried Kice. 

Mix one teaspoon curry powder with one eup gravy or white 
sauce and pour over nee boiled as above. Good with veal or 
mutton in any style. 

Tomatoes. 

To be served raw should be peeled and set on ice at least an 
hour before using. Have boiling fast a kettle of water large 
enough to immerse four tomatoes at once. Plunge them in 
long enough to count live, then remove instantly to cold water. 
Let the water come to a boiling point before putting in another 
set, and they will be found to be tirm and smooth when the 
thin outer skin is peeled off. For serving, see Salad, page 47. 
They are also eaten as a fruit with sugar. 

Stewed.— Cut in slices across the grain and boil gently about 
fifteen minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper and butter. 

Baked.— Do not peel, but cut a small slice from the stem 
end, leaving the stem on the piece for a handle. Scoop 
out the middle and mix with an equal bulk of raw rice, 
son well with butter, salt, pepper, cayenne and aspeck of sugar, 
fill each tomato moderately full, replace the stems and bake in 
a quick oven half an hour or till soft. This stufling may be 
varied by using crumbs, chopped and seasoned meat) ham or 
chicken is best), or macaroni. 

Fried.— Cut them iu halves and dust each cut surface with 
salt, pepper, sugar and enough very line bread crumbs to dry 
them. Have some hot butter in the frying pan and brown the 
tomatoes on both sides. Drop bits of butter between them and 
stand over a moderate fire to cook very slowly. When tender 
take up carefully with a cake turner and serve on a heated plat- 
ter. They are sometimes finished with a cream gravy as fol- 
lows: Pour over them enough cream to nearly cover, jet come 
to a boil, and simmer five minutes. Lift the slices carefully and 
thicken the gravv with two egg yolks beaten with a little cold 
cream. Do not let it quite boil, but serve as soon as thickened. 

Broiled.— Slice and broil over a hot fire. Serve with melted 
butter. 

Scolloped.— Put in a dish alternate layers of buttered bread 
crumbs with sliced tomatoes, sprinkled with pepper, salt and 
sugar. Spread bread crumbs and butter over the top. Bake 
one hour. 

Turnips 

Are wholly deficient in salt, fat and starch, and are therefore 
desirable to serve plain boiled or mashed and seasoned only with 
salt and pepper, with boiled bacon, roast pork and mutton. 
They are most palatable when cut into half inch cubes, boiled 
in plenty of well salted water, and served in a rich white sauce. 

Salsify or Oyster Plant. 

Boiled. — Wash, scrape and throw into cold water. Cut into 
inch pieces and boil rapidly uncovered in a granite stew pan. 
A little vinegar will help to keep it white. Drain them well and 
serve with plenty of butter and lemon juice, salt and pepper to 
taste, or dressed with cream or Bechamel sauce. 

Fried.— Cut cold boiled salsify into convenient lengths, coat 
each with fritter batter No. 2, and fry in deep fat until well 
crisped. 

Fritters. — Page 41. 

Salad. — Page 47. 

Sarmas. 

Prepare equal measure of finely minced meat, lamb or veal, 
and washed rice. Season to taste with salt, pepper, onion and 
cayenne. Scald grape leaves till they are well wilted. In each 
leaf roll a little of the meat and rice, making small oval balls, 
stew in just enough water to keep them from browning. 
Blanched lettuce or cabbage leaves will do; in this case add a 
few drops lemon juice to the meat. 

Spinach. 

Pick over carefully while dry, throw a few plants at a time 
into a large pan of cold water, wash well on both sides to dis- 
lodge insects, and pass to another pan. They should have at 
least three separate waters. Put the spinach into a large kettle 
without water, set it on the stove where it will cook slowly till 
the juice is drawn, then boil till tender, drain and chop fine. 
For half a peck of spinach add cue ounce butter, one-half tea- 
spoon salt. Keheat and serve on buttered toast. 

Yams 

Are treated and served like sweet potatoes. 






54 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



\ 




OOD BREAB 




Is the most important item on the 

menu of the family table, and this 

you will have, provided you will use, with the 

recipes given in this book, the well known flour 

from the ..... 

WASH$URN /WlbbS, 

MINNEAPOLIS. 



Washburn, Crosby Co.'s 



Is the brand you should call for, 
and take no other. 








NOTES ON BREAD MAKING. 



Requisites. 

First — The best flour, fresh sweet yeast, pure water or milk 
scalded, clean salt, sweet butter or lard, if any shortening is 
used, and a good oven. 

Second — A cook who knows how to use these things, or one 
willing to learn and constantly practice with the needed skill, 
strength and patience. 

Given these and good bread is assured. Flour should be kept 
in a dry place; it should be brought to the same temperature as 
the milk or water used for mixing, 70°. Remember that the 
temperature of the body is over 95°, so that the dough should 
always feel cool to the hand. Keep doors and windows shut 
while mixing or kneading or shaping bread or rolls; cover with 
a cloth, especially when shaping into loaves or rolls; it never 
recovers from a chill then. Keep it at an even temperature, 
not less than 60°, not over 80°. It is very desirable to have a 
high shelf where the air is warm and where it is out of 
the way of draughts. If a tin bread pan is used cover closely 
with the usual tin cover and then with a woolen cloth or several 
layers of linen. Use this cover for nothing else. A novice 
might set the kneaded dough to rise in an earthen crock, it is 
very easy to tell in this when the mass has doubled in bulk; 
butter it lightly ana have it evenly warmed. 

Use only good yeast; if it is dry or discolored it is too old, if 
rank smelling it is not properly made and will spoil the bread. 

Beat vigorously while the sponge is soft to fill it with bubbles ; 
remember that yeast is a plant and needs air to make a good 
growth as well as water and an even temperature. Do not let 
it get too warm ; if it is necessary to make bread in less than the 
usual time, increase the quantity of yeast, double it if neces- 
sary, but keep it cool. It will not be so good, but better than it 
would if made too warm. Do not let it over rise, especially 
when shaped in loaves or rolls; this is fatal. Do not try to mix 
stiff in the bowl or pan; it is easier to do it on a well floured 
table. Use a stiff palette knife to help in turning and shaping 
to a ball. Knead by pushing the dough with the palm of the 
hand, curving the fingers to keep the ball from flattening too 
much; with every push turn the ball one quarterround and half 
fold it over. Do not make it too stiff; a soft dough makes a 
ender bread, and one that will keep better than a stiff one. 
Knead until the dough has a silky smoothness, is full of blisters 
and does not stick to the hands or board. Work fast but 
lightly; the time required will vary with the manner of working 
and the method of mixing, usually about twenty minutes. 

If bread does not rise fast enough, set the crock in warm 
water; this will e give it an even temperature; add warm water 
every half houf. Bread should double its bulk at the first 
rising in four hours and at the second in one hour. 

The proper size for bread pans is four inches deep, four and a 
half wide, ten long; they are best made of Russia iron. These 
will bake a two pound loaf, but it is better to use not more than 
one and a half pounds. A new baking pan should always be 
baked blue in the oven before it is used. For greasing baking 
tins use butter, lard, flour or a piece of laundry wax, rubbing 
on the pan while it is hot. Do not grease tins for white bread. 

After the loaves or rolls have been in the pans a half hour 
the temperature may be increased; slip a warm, not hot, board 
under them and set a pan of warm water over them. Attend 
to the fire if coal is used (the oven can be heated with a wood 
fire in fifteen minutes); shake out ashes, see that the fire box is 
evenly filled half way up, and that the dampers are set right; 
brush off the outside of oven and see that the inside is ready for 
use; in ten minutes check the draught so that the oven shall 
not be too hot at first. When the loaves are nearly ready scatter 
a spoon of flour on paper and set in the oven; if it takes a good 
color in five minutes the oven is right for loaves; it should be 
quite brown in three minutes for rolls. 



To prevent bread from raising unevenly in the oven, turn the 
loaf end for end when it has been in the oven just five minutes, 
without regard for the way it looks at that time. 

When loaves are baked the heat should be slightly increased 
for ten minutes then gradually reduced. Rolls should have 
their greatest heat at first. Watch the oven, looking at the 
bread every ten minutes. In ordinary small ranges the loaves 
need frequent turning to ensure an even baking. In forty or 
fifty minutes the loaf will shrink somewhat and slip easily from 
the pan; it should have an evenly browned crust; one good test 
is to lay the hand on the bottom of the loaf and if the escaping 
steam is too hot to bear it shows that the interior needs more 
cooking. When safe to handle it is safe to take out. Take 
from the pans as soon as done and wrap in a thick cloth used 
for no other purpose. Lay on a rack, set where it will cool 
quickly and do not put away until entirely cold. Sift all meal 
and flour before measuring. 

Always pulverize salt, cream of tartar, soda or baking powder 
before using. 

For shortening a mixture of dripping, lard and the fat of veal 
or chicken is very nice. 

Keep the bread box or jar sweet by frequent scalding and 
sunning. 

Dry old rolls and pieces and keep in a separate place. 

Do not throw away bread; it does not take much sense to find 
some way to use if there is no one who would be glad to eat the 
carefully kept odds and ends of good bread. 

Always use a wooden spoon for stirring batter, soups, or 
fruits, as it will not wear out a sieve, stain nor spoil the flavor; 
to keep it white, always dip in hot water before using, as that 
will fill the pores so they cannot absorb much of anything else. 

Water Bread. 

BEAD NOTES ON BREAD MAKING. 

One quart flour sifted, one-half teaspoon salt, one-half tea- 
spoon sugar, one tablespoon butter or lard, one-half ounce com- 
pressed yeast (dissolved in one-half cup tepid water), one pint 
warm water. Measure flour, sugar and salt into a six-quart 
mixing-bowl. Pour hot water enough to dissolve it onto the 
shortening, then add cold water to make just one pint of water 
at the right temperature (about 70°), mix in the dissolved yeast 
and make a batter with the flour, beating well. Add more 
flour till the mixture is stiff enough to handle on the moulding 
board and knead, using as little flour as possible to keep it from 
sticking. Cover closely with a plate and let rise till it doubles 
its bulk. Cut it down and let rise again ; divide into four parts 
and shape into round loaves, putting two in each pan, or shape 
part as biscuit. Cover and let rise to double its bulk. Bake as 
directed about forty-five minutes. 

A different quality of bread is made by using milk to mix 
with, omitting the shortening, or by taking half milk and half 
water and part of the shortening; and still another by using 
skimmed milk. Always scald the milk thoroughly and cool 
before adding the yeast. 

Milk Bread, with a Sponge. 

Pour one pint of scalding milk on one tablespoon each of 
butter and sugar and one-half teaspoon salt; when hike warm 
add one-half ounce yeast, and let it rise. Stir in three and one- 
half cups of flour and beat well. Let it rise till very light, then 
add enough more flour to knead and work it till smooth and 
fine grained. Let it rise in the bowl, cutting down two or 
three times. This makes an excellent rule for tea biscuit, 
or rolls, and by doubling the measure of butter and adding the 
white of an egg well beaten, you have the delicious White 
Mountain rolls. 



55 



56 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



WASHBU'RN, e^osBy eo.'S 




RECIPE FOR MAKING BREAD. 

This is a New Recipe. Kindly give it a trial, as we know good results will follow. 
Set your bread to rise in the morning and follow these rules closely. 

To one (1) quart of lukewarm (not hot) wetting (composed of equal portions of 
water and sweet milk, or water alone), add two (2) half ounce cakes (1 oz.) of Com- 
pressed yeast and stir until completely dissolved, then add (1) teaspoonful of salt and 
three (3) tablespoonfuls of sugar. When salt and sugar are thoroughly dissolved, stir in 
well-sifted flour with a wooden spoon until a dough is formed sufficiently stiff to be 
turned from the mixing bowl to the moulding board in a mass. (The quantity of flour 
used to above wetting should be about three (3) quarts, to this flour may be added, 
with excellent results, about two (2) tablespoonfuls lard, if shortening is desired.) Knead 
this dough, adding if necessary, a little flour, from time to time until it becomes smooth 
and elastic and ceases to stick to the fingers or mouldboard. Then put it into a well- 
greased earthen bowl, brush lightly with melted butter or drippings, cover with a bread 
towel or blanket and set to rise in a warm place for two (2) hours, or until light. As 
soon as light, knead well and again place in earthen bowl, covering as before, and set 
for another rising of an hour, or until light. As soon as light, form gently into loaves 
or rolls, place in greased bread or roll pans, brush with melted butter or drippings, 
cover again with the towel or blanket and let stand for one and one-half (W2) hours, 
and then bake. 



POINTS TO REMEMBER. 

1. Be sure the flour j^ou are using is Washburn, Crosby Co.'s Flour. 

2. Dough when light enough to bake should be nearly double the size in bulk it 
was when first set to rise, and should be so light that when lifted in the pan the sense 
of weight will scarcely be perceptible. 

3. Bread should be put to bake as soon as it is light, and the oven, at the time 
it is put in it, should be at a temperature of 375 degrees by the thermometer, or hot 
enough to brown flour in two (2) minutes without burning it. 

4. The time of rising, of course, depends upon the temperature of the room; 
about 75 degrees is the best. 

5. During the rising see that the dough does not become chilled. The temperature 
must be kept uniform. 

6. In using compressed yeast, see that it is fresh. If soft and soggy when broken, 
it is old and poor. It should be light, spongy and not too damp. 

Ask your Grocer for Washburn, Crosby Co.'s Flour. 



I 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK 



57 



Milk Rising Bread. 

Boil one-half cup of new milk al night and add to it enough 
Southern corn meal to make u soft batter. Let it stand over 
tiight at a temperature of about 75°. In the morning boil another 
half cup of new milk and add cold water till about milk warm, 
and mix thoroughly with the batter made at night, adding one 
tablespoon sugar, one teaspoon salt and enough flour to make 
a soft batter. Set this mixture in a very warm place (not less 
than 100°), and let it rise to double its bulk; it will take about 
three hours. As soon as well risen add an equal bulk of water 
in which has been dissolved one-halt' teaspoon soda, one rounded 
tablespoon of lard, more salt if liked, and Hour enough to knead 
quite soft. Put it into the pans, let rise again to double its 
bulk, and bake as usual. — Mrs. J. B. S, Holmes, Rome, 0a. 

Graham Bread. 

1 pint milk, J ounce yeast, 

2 tablespoons brown sugar, 1 pint Graham, 

1 teaspoon salt, 1 pint white Hour. 

Scald and cool the milk, add the sugar and crumbled yeast; 
when it floats and is frothy make a batter with the flour and 
meal, beating vigorously, let it rise till spongy, add the salt and 
more meal gradually until it is as thick as can be worked with a 
stiff knife, put one and a half pounds in each pan, smoothing 
the tops; cover and raise again. It should be set in a quick 
oven and the heat reduced in ten minutes. It is sometimes 
liked made stiff enough to knead, but should not be made as 
stiff as ordinary wheat bread ; bake as usual, with heat increasing 
for ten minutes. Good baked as muffins. 

Gluten Bread. 

The so-called gluten meals vary so mucn that the measures 
given here may need to be varied. The Xew York Health 
Food Company have a meal which has been washed until only 
slight traces of starch are left, and this is perhaps the safest 
for diabetic patients; but there are others in the market which 
have been freed from a large proportion of starch, and these 
make a palatable and highly nutritious bread for general use. 

1 generous pint milk, J ounce compressed yeast, 

J speck saccharine, 1 scant teaspoon salt, 

2 quarts, more or less, gluten. 

Scald and cool the milk to 70°, add the saccharine — it can be 
taken up on the point of a skewer — crumble the yeast in the 
milk and let it stand fifteen minutes; it will not float, but will 
be soft enough to beat smooth with gluten to make a soft 
batter; beat till it shows bubbles, let it rise till spongy; it will 
take rather longer thau an ordinary wheat sponge, and the 
fermentation must not go too far or the bread will be bitter; 
put iu the salt and as much more gluten as can be worked in 
easily with a stiff knife; put one and a half pounds in a loaf; 
bake thoroughly with moderate heat for the last half hour. 
Can be baked in iron gem pans. It may be made stiffer and 
kneaded if preferred, in which case the dough should staud for 
another rising before it is put in the pans. It is more apt to 
develop a bitter taste in the longer rising. 

Whole wheat may be made by any recipe for Graham, omit- 
ting flour. 

Graham and Rye Bread. 

One pint Graham, one pint rye meal, one tablespoon molasses, 
one tablespoon shortening, one teaspoon salt, one-half ounce 
compressed yeast dissolved in two and one-third cups water. 
Make a sponge with the Graham, when light make stiff with the 
rye. It does not require long kneading, and will always be 
slightly sticky, but it is both palatable and nutritious. Put not 
more than one and a half pounds in a loaf aud bake an hour 
and a quarter in a moderate oven. This is the "brown bread" 
of the English bakeries, and needs only a brick oven to be as 
good as theirs. 

Graham and Rye Bread Steamed. 

Two cups buttermilk, one-third cup molasses, one teaspoon 
salt, one teaspoon soda, one pint wheat Graham and one pint 
rye Graham. Beat well, put in two well-buttered two pound 
tomato cans, (melt the top off at the gas jet) set over cold 
water and bring to a boil, this gives the loaf time to rise. 
Steam two hours, dry in moderate oven one-half hour. 

Rye Bread. 

Three pints of rye flour; 'f the coarse rye meal is used take 
one quart rye and one pint white flour; dissolve one-half ounce 
•yeast in three cups milk or water, one teaspoon salt and two 
tablespoons molasses if liked. Treat like Graham. Bake 
moderately but thoroughly. 



"Rye'n Injin." 

Scald one cup corn meal with one quart boiling milk and let 
It cook litteen minutes, add two tablespoons molasses, one tea- 
spoon salt and let it cool; meanwhile dissolve one ounce of 
yeast in two tablespoons water, and beat thoroughly into the 
Corn meal batter; mix in three cups of rye meal, not Hour; if 
Very coarse sift OUt Some Of the bran, but keep three cups to 
mix with, put into an iron or steel pan, bake in a sponge cake 
oven but lei it stay in two hours at least, covering closely if there 
is danger of browning. The old way was to put it iu for the 
last baking of the brick oven and let it stand all night. II the 
upper crust was too hard it was evenly sliced from the loaf. 
well browned and used for crust coffee or brewis, either or 
which needs only to be known to be appreciated. 

"Boston Brown Bread" Steamed. / 

Two cups rye meal, one cup corn meal, one-third cup ndolasses, 
one teaspoon salt, one teaspoon soda dissolved in tfo table- 
spoons water, one pint sour milk, steam four hours. 

Graham Bread Steamed. 

Three cups Graham, one teaspoon salt, one rounding teaspoon 
soda, one-third cup molasses, one pint sour milk, beat well, 
steam three hours in one tall mould or two tomato cans well 
buttered, set in oven to dry fifteen minutes. — Mtel Ellen 
Munro, Milwaukee, Wis. 

ROLLS. 

For ordinary breakfast use take one and a half pounds bread 
dough when ready to shape into loaves, make a long even roll 
and cut into twelfths, shape with thumb and lingers into round 
balls, set in a eleven by six inch pan if liked without crust, or two 
inches apart on a sheet if wanted crusty all around, brush with 
butter, cover closely and let rise slowly for thirty or forty 
minutes, then raise the temperature slightly for another half 
hour; they should more than double their bulk and should 
have even dome-shaped tops; bake in a quick oven fifteen to 
twenty-five minutes. 

Finger Rolls. 

Make "Milk Bread with a Sponge," putting in a generous 
measure of butter; proceed as usual, but cut dowu twice. 
Make a pound and a half of dough into two rolls, cut each into 
twelfths and make two rows in a biscuit tin, rise and bake as 
before. 

For Pocket Books roll out the same dough after the second 
cutting to less than a half inch, spread thinly with butter, cut 
in strips four or five inches wide, fold down an inch or two at 
one end and then over again, cut off square and begin again; 
bake separately. 

Folded Rolls are cut from the same sheet of buttered dough 
with a two inch cutter, folded a trifle unevenly and set with 
edges up three rows of ten each in a biscuit tin. 

Sticks. 

These are used with soups and salads. Use the same material 
as for "Tea Biscuit with Potato" omitting the potato. Knead 
thoroughly and shape after the first rising, eighteen ounces of 
dough will make two dozen sticks. Make two even rolls and 
cut into twelve each, roll as even as a lead pencil and set in 
stick pans; they come insets of one dozen. If the hands are 
dry dampen them with a wet towel, cover the rolls closely 
while rising; when making several dozen cover with a damp 
cloth and put a thick dry one over. If wanted soft inside bake 
Ave minutes in a quick oven, or ten to fifteen in moderate oven 
if wanted crisp all through. 

White Mountain Rolls. 

Are made with four ounces dough, each six inches long and 
tapering somewhat to the ends; they may be laid on a sheet, 
but are nicer baked in French roll pans; these are half cylinders 
of Russia iron. 

Thumb Rolls. 

Are one and a half ounces made about two inches long and 
baked separately in French roll pans. 

French Twists. 

These require twenty ounces for each pair. Divide in fourths, 
roll nearly as long as the pan, lay a knife across the ends of two 
strands and fold one over the other to make a shapely twist. 
Braids are made in the same way with three or four strands, 
but are better baked in a pan. 



58 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Tea Biscuit. 

One cup milk scalded and cooled, one table spoon sugar, two 
tablespoons shortening, one-half teaspoon salt, one-half ounce 
yeast dissolved with the sugar in one-fourth cup water, three 
cups flour, beat well; let rise till light, add one cup flour and 
raise again, shape, butter, cover, raise till light and bake in 
quick oven.— Miss Ellen Mevrick, Milwaukee, Wis. 

Tea Biscuit with Potato. • 

Three-fourths of a cup of hot, sifted potato, one-fourth cup 
butter, one teaspoon sugar, one teaspoon salt, mixed well to- 
gether. One cup milk that has been scalded and cooled, one- 
fourth ounce compressed yeast, white of one egg slightly 
beaten. Mix the above ingredients well and add enough flour 
to knead it smooth. It will take about one quart. 

If this is, set at ten o'clock in the morning, it will be ready to 
shape and bake for tea. 

Cut the sponge down once and when it has risen the second 
time shape in rather small biscuit, set them well apart in the 
pan and let rise in a cool place till very light. Bake in a quick 
oven. These are excellent to use for croustades.— Mrs. Cheney, 
Ft. Wayne, III. 

Sweet Potato Biscuit. 

Boil and mash a large sweet potato while hot; work in two 
eggs and flour enough for a dough. Add one-quarter ounce 
yeast, and let it rise over night. In the morning work in a 
spoon of butter, mould in small biscuit, let them rise to double 
their size, and bake in a quick oven. Good for breakfast or tea. 

Parker House Rolls. 

Put one quart of flour in a large mixing bowl, make a hollow 
in the center, add one teaspoon salt, one tablespoon sugar, two 
large tablespoons butter, and pour on one pint of milk, boiling 
hot; let it alone until cooled to 70°; add one-half ounce yeast 
dissolved in two tablespoons water, stir gently to make a thin 
batter, leaving a shell of flour around the batter; when full of 
bubbles mix stiff using three cups flour, more or less; let it rise 
to twice its bulk, cut down, rise again, roll or pat out one-half 
inch thick, cut, butter, fold so that the upper edge overlaps the 
under one, or they will spread apart too much in rising, cover 
closely, give them plenty of time to rise and do not let them be 
too warm, bake ten or fifteen minutes in hot oven. 



Lancashire Tea Cakes. 



H pounds flour. 
i pound butter. 
1 pint new milk. 
J ounce yeast. 



j pound currants. 

2 ounces candied lemon. 

2 eggs. 

2 tablespoons sugar. 
A little grated nutmeg. 
Put the sugar and currants with the flour ; melt the butter in the 
milk which must be scalded, and when cool enough mixed with 
the well beaten eggs and yeast. Add the dry ingredients beat- 
ing all well and set away to rise. When light put in cake 
^ans to rise again to double its bulk. Bake in a moderately hot 
oven. These are delicious when fresh, and equally good split 
and toasted the second day.— Mrs. W. S. Turner, Asheville,N. C. 

"To Make Wigs." 

Take three pounds and a half of flour, and three quarters of 
a pound of butter, and rub it into the flour till none of it be 
seen; then take a pint or more of new milk and make it very 
warm and half a pint of new Ale-yeast; then make it into a 
light paste. Put in caraway seeds and what spice you please; 
then make it up and lay it before the tire to rise; then work in 
three quarters of a pound of sugar, and then roll them into 
what form you please, pretty thin, rise again before the fire 
and bake in a warm oven.— The Compleat Housewife. 

Crumpets. 

One pint milk, scalded and cooled, one-half ounce yeast, dis- 
solved in the milk with one teaspoon sugar and one-half tea- 
spoon salt; when light, from two to four hours, add one-half 
cup melted butter, let stand twenty minutes, bake in rings on 
a large griddle; best when one or two days old and toasted. 

Buns and Rusk. 

One pint milk, scalded and cooled, one-half cup butter and 
lard mixed, one-half cup sugar, one-half cup sifted potato, one 
ounce yeast dissolved in the pint of milk with one teaspoon 
sugar, three eggs. Mix in the order given, adding flour to 
make a thin batter, about one quart; beat well; when full of 
bubbles, add flour to stiffen and knead well. Kaise again, cut 
down, and when light again shape one-half the dough into 
small balls, like breakfast biscuit; place them close together 
in the pan, raise slowly at first, and when very light brusn 



them over with this syrup: One tablespoon cream and 
one of sugar, boiled one minute. Currants or raisins 
seeded and quartered, may be added, or one teaspoon cin- 
namon. Bake the other half in two two-pound loaf pans. 
Set it in moderate oven so that the loaf will be nearly level; 
the next day cut in half inch slices, set in a very moderate 
oven until perfectly crisp and of a bright yellow color. These 
are delicious with milk or chocolate for lunch. There are 
many variations of this rule. If a soft flour is used make 
simply a bread sponge, and after the second rising add the 
butter and sugar, creamed and beaten as for cake. This must 
be done with the hand, and when smooth add one, two or 
three eggs. Some recipes double the butter and sugar, and 
they are good with one-half as much. 

Hot Cross Buns have two gashes cut across them with a 
sharp knife, or have deep folds pressed into them with a long 
pencil. When baked separately and shaped like French rolls 
they are called Quebecs. Roll to a thin sheet, brush with soft 
butter, sugar and spice, or fine dried fruit. Then fold over 
like jelly cake and cut in half inch slices; let rise again till 
light, brush again with butter or sweetened milk and bake 
separately for Swedish Rolls. 

Soft Kringles. 

One half pound dough from "Milk bread with a sponge," 
Pound two cardamom seeds to a powder with two good table- 
spoons sugar and work into the dough with two eggs and 
two tablespoons butter; add just enough flour to knead well. 
Roll into long sticks and cut into sections, shape in rings, 
links or pretzels. 

Prune Kringles. 

One-half pound dough, one tablespoon each butter and sugar 
kneaded into it. Chop six or eight good prunes in four table- 
spoons sugar, chop first, the meat of three or four of the stones 
very fine, mix, shape the dough into sticks the size of the little 
finger, roll in the prunes bake in oblong rings. 

Sugar Kringles are made in the same way, substituting a 
dozen blanched and chopped almonds for the prunes, roll the 
sticks rather smaller, make oblong rings with one end crossing 
at the middle to the opposite side. 

Giffles. 

Take one-half pound Soft Kringle dough roll one-quarter inch 
thick cut in eight equal squares, put a spoonful of any firm 
jelly near one corner, roll over and over, stretching a little and 
curve like a Vienna roll. When very light glaze and bake ten 
minutes in a hot oven. 

BISCUIT, SHORTCAKE, MUFFINS, ETC. 

WITH BAKING POWDER. 

Baking Powder Biscuit. 

One quart sifted flour, one teaspoon salt, four level teaspoons 
baking powder sifted together four times, two tablespoons but- 
ter, enough cold milk to make a stiff dough (patent flour 
will require about one pint). Rub the butter between the 
thumb and fingers to make it into fine flakes, add the milk 
gradually, mixing and cutting through with a knife till the 
whole is a light spongy mass. Turn on a well floured board 
and press out with the hands to one inch thick, use a two inch 
cutter and bake at once in a very hot oven, this will make just 
eighteen and fills one biscuit tin. 

For Twin Biscuit make as above and roll only one-half as 
thick. Spread the rounds with soft butter, put two together 
and bake quickly. 

For Sandwich Biscuit, make as before, but add one teaspoon 
shortening, roll less than one-half inch thick, cut in four inch 
rounds, bake separately on an iron sheet, cool, split and use for 
salad sandwiches with plain lettuce dipped in French dressing. 

Dropped Biscuit. 

One quart flour, one teaspoon sugar, one teaspoon salt, and 
four teaspoons baking powder sifted together four times. Rub 
in two tablespoons of butter and mix with one pint of milk; 
beat vigorously for one minute, drop by tablespoons in hot iron 
gem pans and bake ten minutes in a quick oven. Excellent 
made with Rye or Graham. 

Short Cake, No. 1. 

One quart flour, one teaspoon salt, four teaspoons baking 
powder, sifted together four times, rub in one-half cup butter and 
lard, one and one quarter cups milk. Bake in two long biscuit 
tins, marking off in squares before baking. Bake in a very 
quick oven till a good brown. Use a generous quart of fruit for 



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each layer, dust thick with powdered sugar. Pile whipped 
cream on the top layer just before serving. If it is wanted very 
crisp and short like pastry the amount of shortening is doubled 
and water used to mix rather stiller than before. All butter 
makes it more crisp than lard. 

Short Cake, No. 2. 

One pint Hour, one-half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking 
powder, sifted together four times, one quarter cup battel 
rubbed in, one egg beaten and mixed with one scant cup milk. 
Spread on a biscuit tin and bake in quick oven. Pull apart 
after cooling live minutes, spread with softened butter and till 
with fruit. 

Short Cake. No. 3. 

Beat three eggs very light (not less than ten minutes of rapid 
beating), add one and one-half cups sugar, one-half cup cold 
water, two cups pastry Hour, two teaspoons baking powder, 
whisk very quickly together and bake in three jelly cake tins 
about ten minutes. 

Old Fashioned Short Cake, No. 4. 

One large cup rich sour cream, one-half teaspoon salt and the 
same of soda, sifted four times with one pint flour, mix, beat 
well for two minutes. If there is no old fashioned spider take 
a twelve inch frying pan, have it buttered and hissing hot, 
spread in the short cake, cover with a flat tin and set hot 
griddle over. Do not burn, turn in less than ten minutes, 
when done break in pieces and send to table folded in napkin. 

Rye Short Cake. 

One pint rye meal, one teaspoon salt, one pint wheat flour, 
two tablespoons butter well rubbed in, two teaspoons baking 
powder, water enough to roll out one inch thick on a baking 
sheet, bake about thirty minutes; when used for garnish roll 
one-half inch thick on a sheet and mark in triangles t>efore bak- 
ing. 

Dumplings for Stews. 

One pint of flour, one-half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons bak- 
ing powder, sifted together four times; mix with one cup rich 
milk, drop by spoonf ills into the boiling stew. Cover tight and do 
not open for ten minutes, when they should be done. These 
may also be dropped on a buttered plate and cooked in an 
ordinary steamer over fast boiling water. 

When cooked with stewed fruit made very rich, this is called 
Fruit Pot Pie. Peach, pear, plum, apple highly flavored with 
quince, and cranberries are good. Crabapple is better to use 
with the rich crispness of a short cake. 

Apple Dumplings, No. 1. 

Fill a two quart granite ware pan two-thirds full of tart 
apples, pared, quartered and cored, add one-half cup water, 
cover and set on stove to heat while preparing crust. Make one- 
half the rule for short cake No. 1. Roll out to exactly lit the 
pan, cut several gashes to let the steam escape, lay it over the 
hot apples and cover with a deep pie plate; cook on top of the 
stove for half an hour, setting the pan on a trivet if necessary 
to keep the apples from burning; then lift the cover and brown 
the crust in a hot oven. Serve with hard sauce. Excellent also 
when steamed forty minutes. Invert on a large plate and serve 
with brown sugar sauce. 

Apple Dumplings, No. 2. 

Make crust as in short cake No. 1, but use scant measure of 
milk, roll out and cut in Ave inch squares, core and halve three 
large apples, fold each piece of apple in a square of paste, 
bringing the corners to the core; turn the dumplings upside 
down in a well buttered dripping pan, dot them with bits of 
butter and sprinkle over four tablespoons of sugar; set the pan 
in a quick oven and after ten minutes pour on boiling water to 
half cover. Baste often and bake about thirty minutes in an 
oven hot enough to have them browned in that time. Serve 
with hot sauce, cream or the syrup from the pan. 

Apple Cake. 

Core, pare and cut in eighths four or five tender sour apples. 
Make the rule for short cake No. 2. Lay the apple closely in rows 
the long way of the biscuit pan, sift over two tablespoons sugar, 
in which a half teaspoon of cinnamon has been mixed if liked; 
work fast; bake in a rather quick oven about thirty minutes. 
It may be used plain for tea or with hot sauce for dessert. This 
is'a very good and quickly made substitute for the true German 
dish, that has the rich, delicate coffee bread for a foundation, 
but which requires more time and care. 



Peach Cobbler. 

Prepare a rich short cake crust, using cream to mix it if pos- 
sible. Fill a granite baking dish about one-half full with pared 
and stoned peaches. Allow one pint sugar to each quart of 
fruit. Cover and bake, for an hour or longer until the peaches 
show a dark red color. Cool and serve with sugar and cream. 

Peach Dumplings. 

Make one-half the rule for short cake No. 1, roll out one inch 
thick, cut three inch rounds arid make a large hollow in the 
biscuit with a cup, leaving just a rim around the edge, fill with 
fresh peaches cut in quarters, or nice canned peaches; sprinkle 
white sugar over the top enough to season well, set the 
dumplings in a pan and bake thirty minutes in a moderate 
oven; ten minutes before taking outpour over one pint boiling 
hot syrup (use the juice from the can) and baste twice, increase 
the heat to glaze the dumplings; if they brown a little ^all the 
better. 

Royal Muffins. 

Two cups "cerealine," three cups flour, one pint milk, three 
teaspoons baking powder, one-half teaspoon salt, two eggs, one 
tablespoon butter. Sift flour, sugar, salt and baking powder 
together; add "cerealine," the milk and beaten eggs; lastly the 
butter, melted, beat hard for two minutes, fill muffin pans two- 
thirds full and bake about twenty minutes in hot oven. 

Corn Muffins. 

One cup corn-meal, two tablespoons sugar, one teaspoon salt, 
one even tablespoon butter, Ave cups boiling water. At night 
mix the meal, salt, sugar, in top of double boiler; add the boil- 
ing water and butter and cook one hour. Turn into a mixing 
bowl and pour over it one-quarter cup water to keep a crust 
from forming. In the morning beat it up soft and smooth, 
mix one and one-half cups fine yellow corn flour, one and one- 
half cups white flour, two even teaspoons baking powder and 
stir into the mixture. Add one egg well beaten, bake in iron 
gem pans in a hot oven; or, in the morning add one cup each of 
corn, rye and wheat flour; or, one and one-half corn, one graham, 
one-half cup wheat flour. These are good enough to pay for 
the extra trouble of cooking the evening before using. This 
rule makes sixteen muffins. — Boston Cook Book. 

Loaf Corn Bread. 

One pint yellow meal, one-half pint flour, one teaspoon salt, 
two teaspoons baking powder, all sifted together; one table- 
spoon sugar, three tablespoons melted butter, three eggs, one 
pint sweet milk. Beat long and hard, and bake in a large 
round loaf. The oven must not be too hot. 



1 cup sweet milk, 
1 cup sour milk, 
i cup molasses, 



Togus Muffins. 

1| cup corn meal, 
I cup flour, 
1 teaspoon soda, 
J teaspoon salt. 



Steam in cups two hours. 

White Corn Bread. 

Put one quart of cream-white meal into a bowl, pour over 
sufficient boiling water to scald it through; the meal must be 
moist, but not wet; add to this a tablespoon of butter and tea- 
spoon of salt. Beat three eggs without separating until light; 
add them to the meal; then add one pint of thick sour milk; 
beat until smooth. Dissolve one teaspoon of soda in a table- 
spoon of boiling water, stir into the mixture, turn into a 
greased pan and bake in a moderately quick oven forty-five 
minutes. If you use sweet milk, baking powder must be used, 
but your cake will not be so good. 

Corn and Rice Cakes. 

One pint white corn meal, one teaspoon salt, one tablespoon 
flour, one cup cold boiled rice, three eggs well beaten, one pint of 
milk, two tablespoons melted butter, one heaping teaspoon 
baking powder, bake in muffin pans about twenty minutes. 

Hominy and Corn Meal Cakes. 

Mix two tablespoons fine uncooked hominy, one-half tea- 
spoon salt, one tablespoon butter, one-half cup of boiling 
water. Set over the boiling teakettle till the water is all 
absorbed, pour one cup boiling milk on one scant cup of corn- 
meal, add two tablespoons sugar and the hominy, cool and 
whisk in two eggs (yolks and whites beaten separately), one 
heaping teaspoon baking powder. Bake in gem pans twenty 
minutes. — Boston Cook Book. 



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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Johnny Cake. 

One quart of watermilled corn meal, one teaspoon salt, two 
tablespoons molasses, three cups buttermilk, two level tea- 
spoons soda, crushed and stirred into the meal. Beat two eggs 
to a cream, add to the milk and meal, and beat last for two 
minutes with a broad wooden spoon. Bake in two pans for 
one-half hour in a rather quick oven. This old-fashioned 
bread can only be properly made with old-fashioned meal. 
The usual kiln-dried meal makes a different quality, and the 
proportion should be three cups meal and one of flour, while if 
one has the golden granulated, which is so nice for mush and 
steamed bread, it will do to take one pint of flour to one pint 
of corn meal. In this case take one pint sour milk and use 
four tablespoons meited shortening. 

Corn Cake with Suet. 

One cup corn meal, one cup flour, one-half teaspoon salt and 
one-half teaspoon crushed soda, sifted together. Add one-half 
cup finely chopped suet and one pint sour milk; beat well and 
bake in moderate oven one-half hour. It may be eaten with 
syrup, but is recommended only for zero weather. 

Muffins, No. 1. 

One pint milk, one tablespoon sugar, half ounce yeast, make 
a sponge with three cups flour, beat well. When light add two 
eggs, two tablespoons butter melted, half teaspoon salt, one 
cup flour, more or less; raise till light, fill rings or gem pans, 
raise again and bake in a rather quick oven for twenty or 
twenty-five minutes. If baked in a buttered dish and sent to 
the table in the same pan it is called Sally Lunn. It used to 
be the custom to cut them in two as soon as out of the oven, 
butter freely, replace and eat at once, but happily this villainy 
is now out of fashion. 

Muffins, No. 2. (English.) 

One quart flour, one teaspoon salt, one-third ounce yeast, 
one and one-half cups of warm water. Dissolve the yeast 
in one third cup of cold water, add it with the salt and 
the warm water and gradually stir it into the flour. Beat 
the dough thoroughly; cover and let rise in a warm place until 
spongy, about five hours. Then shape the dough on a floured 
board into balls about twice as large as an egg. Flatten to 
one-third of an inch thick. Lay these on a warm griddle which 
has been lightly greased and set on the back of the stove to rise 
slowly. As soon as they have risen a little draw them forward 
and cook slowly, turning often. They should take about 
twenty minutes to rise and fifteen minutes to bake. Tear them 
apart and butter them while hot.— 3Iiss Parloa. 

Yorkshire Toasted Tea Cakes. 

Make a sponge with three pints of sifted flour, one teaspoon 
of salt, one pint warm milk, one-half pound of butter melted 
in it, half an ounce of yeast dissolved in a little warm water. 
Beat these smooth and let rise until very light, add a beaten 
egg and enough flour to knead smooth. Make this into flat 
cakes the size of a teaplate, let them rise an hour and bake in 
a moderate oven. The next day split and toast, butter at once 
and serve hot. 

Graham Muffins, No. 1. (Raised.) 

-Make the same as for bread but fill well-buttered gem pans 
instead of making loaves, raise until light, bake twenty min- 
utes in quick oven. 

Graham Muffins, No. 2. (With Baking Powder.) 

Make like drop biscuits but take only half the shortening, 
none is needed if creamy milk can be had; use a little more 
milk. 

Graham Muffins, No. 3. (With Muriatic Acid.) 

One quart graham and one teaspoon crushed soda sifted to- 
gether, no salt is needed as enough will be formed by the union 
of the soda and acid. Stir one teaspoon acid into one pint of 
milk, the richer the better. Mix the two quickly and beat well 
one minute with a broad wooden spoon. Put in hot iron gem 
pans and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven. — Dr. Rogers 
Pom/ret, Conn. 

Brown Muffins. 

One cup corn meal, two cups rye meal, one-fourth cup molas- 
ses, one-half teaspoon salt. Dissolve one-fourth yeast cake in a 
little tepid water, add enough more to make a soft dough. Rise 
over night. In the morning add one saltspoon soda dissolved 
in as little warm water as possible. Drop into muftiin pans, let 
stand till light. Bake in a rather moderate oven. 



Oat Meal Muffins. 

One large coffee cup freshly cooked oat meal, one tablespoon 
butter, one tablespoon sugar, one teaspoon salt, mix well to- 
gether, add one-fourth to one-half yeast cake dissolved in as 
little water as possible, and enough flour to mould very stiff. 
Rise till light, drop in warm gem pans, rise again until soft. 
Bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. 

Rice Muffins, No. 1. 

One coffee cup of warm boiled rice, half tablespoon sugar, 
one tablespoon butter well worked into the rice while warm, 
add one scant cup milk and flour enough to make a very stiff 
dough. One-quarter to one-half yeast cake dissolved in a little 
of the milk. Rise till light, then add two eggs beaten to a 
cream, drop into well buttered muffin pans, rise till very light. 
Bake about ten minutes in the hottest kind of an oven. 

Rice Muffins, No. 2. 

Use the same ingredients as in No. 1, but scant the measure 
of flour so as to make it a drop batter and add two teaspoons 
baking powder instead of the yeast. 

Cream Muffins. 

One pint flour, half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking pow- 
der sifted four times, yolks of two eggs beaten lightly, one and 
a quarter cups cream, beat thoroughly then fold in lightly the 
beaten whites of the two eggs. Bake in muffin pans and serve 
hot.— Mrs. Lincoln. 

Pauline Muffins. 

One pint flour, one pint milk, two eggs, one tablespoon sugar, 
one tablespoon butter, two teaspoons baking powder, one-half 
teaspoon salt. Mix and sift the flour, baking powder and salt, rub 
the butter and sugar, then mix the flour with it to cream, add 
the eggs and beat till smooth, then mix it with the flour, pour 
in the milk and beat rapidly till very light. Pour into buttered 
gem pans or murfiin rings with bottoms, about two thirds full, 
and bake in a quick oven. 

Harrison Bread. 

One pint of milk, one tablespoon of lard, four eggs well 
beaten, flour for a thick batter, half ounce of yeast. Pour the 
milk boiling hot on the lard; when cold, stir in the eggs, flour 
and yeast; set to rise, and when light bake in a loaf. Serve it 
hot, and slice it at the table, like cake. 

Quick Sally Lunn. 

One quart flour, one teaspoon salt, three teaspoons baking 
powder, three eggs well beaten with two tablespoons sugar, one 
pint milk, two tablespoons butter, softened. Beat well; makes 
two square pans or sixteen muffins. 

Quick Coffee Bread. 

Same as above, using half cup less milk, five eggs and sprink- 
ling sugar on top with a little cinnamon, instead of mixing it 
with the dough. 

Blueberry Tea Cake. 

One quart flour, one teaspoon salt and three of baking pow- 
der sifted with the flour. One cup sugar, two eggs, one pint 
sweet milk, one-half cup butter, melted, beat all well together; 
then add one pint blueberries that have been picked over and 
well dusted with flour. Stir carefully not to break the berries. 
Fill pans about three-quarters full and bake about one-half hour 
in a moderate oven. Serve with stewed berries.— Mrs. Helen 
Campbell. 

Squash Muffins. 

Cream, one-half cup butter, add one-half cup sugar and beat 
two minutes, then add one and a half cups sifted squash, it 
should be very dry, dilute with one and a half cups milk in which 
has been dissolved one-half ounce yeast, mix stiff with flour, 
perhaps five cups; knead well and let rise till light. Shape into 
biscuit, raise slowly. It will take a half hour longer than for 
plain rolls and they must not be too warm. Bake half an hour 
in oven not so hot as usual. 

Squash Muffins, No. 2. 

One pint flour, two teaspoons baking powder, two eggs, one 
teaspoon salt, four tablespoons sugar, one cup sifted squash, 
and milk enough to make a drop batter (about one cup). Bake 
like Tea Cake. 



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Popovers. 

One egg, one cup flour, one saltspoon sail, add gradually one 
cup milk and beat furiously five minutes; have iron gem pans 
or stone cups hissing hot, till half full, set in a white bread 
oven and do not open the door for fifteen minutes. (They may 
also be made with graham.) Mix with milk and cream, half 
and half, or add one tablespoon melted butter in the last two 
minutes' beating, and the popovers can be served with any 
rich hot sauce for dessert and called Sunderland pudding. 

Graham Puffs. 

For one dozen puffs use three eggs, one pint of milk, one 
pint of graham, one teaspoon of sugar, half a teaspoon of salt 
and three eggs. Butter the muffin pans and place them where 
they will get warm. Mix the graham, flour, sugar and salt; 
beat the eggs till very light, and add the milk to them ; pour 
it upon the dry ingredients, and beat well for three minutes; 
turn the batter into the muffin pans, and bake in a rather hot 
oven for half an hour. If the taste of rye be liked, half a pint 
of rye meal may be substituted for the graham. 

Corn Popovers. 

Scald one pint of milk, add an even tablespoon butter, stir 
in a generous half pint of sifted corn meal. When cool, add 
three well beaten eggs, put in hot iron gem pans and bake as 
above. 

Graham Rolls. 

These rolls properly made are excellent. Mrs. Susanna 
Dodds gives the following directions for a perfect gem: Mix 
graham or whole wheat flour with ice-cold water in the propor- 
tion of two-thirds of a cup of water to a pint of flour; more 
wetting must be used if the flour is very coarse. Stir fast 
until a moderately stiff dough is formed, and knead thoroughly 
from ten to fifteen minutes, till the dough is fine and elastic to 
the touch. Roll half of it at a time into long rolls a little over 
an inch in diameter; cut off and shape into rolls three or 
four inches long and three-quarters of an inch thick. Work 
quickly and place a little apart in a pan; prick them with a 
fork and put the pan in a hot oven. When done they should 
not yield to pressure between the thumb and finger. They are 
to be eaten warm or cold and are just as good re-warmed as 
when new. To do this dip in cold water, cover with cloth and 
set in a moderate oven, when they will puff up lighter than at 
first. These require slow mastication, and are sweet as a nut 
and very^nutritious. — Hester M. Poole. 

Rye Breakfast Muffins. 

One cup rye meal, one cup flour, one cup milk, one-quarter 
cup sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking 
powder, one egg well beaten. Mix all the dry materials. Add 
milk to the beaten egg and beat well together. Bake twenty 
minutes in muffin tins in a quick oven. — Miss Parloa. 

Wafers. 

One pint whole wheat flour, one-half teaspoon salt; rub in a 
tablespoon butter and make into a stiff dough with milk. Take 
bits of double the size of an English walnut and roll them the 
size of an eight inch plate. Bake in a hot oven till a golden 
brown. 

Gluten Wafers. 

One-half cup good cream, one saltspoon salt, and gluten to 
make a stiff dough: knead well, shape in long rolls, lay on un- 
buffered baking sheet and roll as thin letter paper. Bake in 
quick oven till lightly brown. — Mrs, Lincoln. 

Beaten Biscuit. 

Three pints pastry flour, one cup lard, one teaspoon salt, 
rub lard and flour together and make into a very stiff dough 
with milk or milk and water, knead and beat with rolling-pin 
(or mallet) an hour, or work in machine for half that time. 
The dough should be smooth and glossy, bits should break off 
with a snap. Shape in thin flat cakes, pick all over with a sharp 
fork and bake in a moderate oven to a delicate brown and till 
the edges crack a little. They must have time enough to bake 
thoroughly, or they will be heavy in the middle. 

Dodgers. 

Tut one cup Indian meal in the upper part of double boiter 
with one-half teaspoon salt, when it boils pour on one cup boil 
ing water, beat smooth, cook one hour, add one tablespoon 
butter; drop by spoonfuls on a buttered griddle, pat them down 
flat and when browned put a dot of butter on each before 
turning. They are a good accompaniment to broiled ham, and 
may be used for a winter breakfast cooked in the frying pan 
after sausage or bacon. 



Hoe Cake. 

Put one quart of white corn meal into a bowl, add one lea- 
spoon of salt, add to it sufficient boiling water to moisten, stirr- 
ing all the time to make a stiff batter. Moisten the hands in 
cold water. Take a tablespoon of the batter in your hand ami 
press it into a thin round cake. 

If you have an open fire, have before it an oak plank, well 
heated. Place the cakes against the board in front of the lire. 
Bake on one side and turn and bake on the other until thor- 
oughly done, about three-quarters of an hour. These can also 
be baked on a griddle on top of the lire. 

When done pull apart, butter and send to the table hot. 
Good.— Mrs. Borer. 

Thin Corn Cake. "Splits." 

One cup corn-meal (yellow), one-quarter teaspoon salt, one 
round tablespoon butter, one and one-half cups boiling water, 
one teaspoon sugar. Pour the boiling water on meal, sugar 
and salt. Beat thoroughly. Add the butter and when well 
mixed spread very thin on buttered tin sheets. Bake slowly 
about twenty minutes. Pull apart and butter while hot. 

Corn Meal Scones. 

Put two cups of corn meal into a bowl. Add a teaspoon of 
sugar, a teaspoon of salt, two teaspoons of baking powder and 
mix it well together. Add a large teaspoon of butter. With 
your hands rub it into the flour. Add to this sufficient cold 
milk to make a batter that will drop, not pour from the spoon. 
Bake on a griddle in muffin rings, as you would ordinary 
muffins. — Mrs. Rarer. 

Soft Johnny Cake. 

Put to boil one pint water in a saucepan, one salt-spoon salt. 
When it boils add one gill rolled oats and boil fifteen minutes. 
Then stir in well half-pint corn-meal. Spread out on a small 
frying pan. Cover close and bake twenty minutes. Turn and 
bake ten or twenty minutes more according to its thickness; 
with raisins, currants or chopped dates children will often relish 
it without butter. Serve warm. It can be baked in an oven. 
If spread out in a thin loaf it can be baked in a harder crust, 
which some prefer. 

Oatmeal Scones. 

Oatmeal scones are made from the left-over porridge from 
breakfast, which is often thrown away. Put a piece of butter 
the size of a walnut into a cup, add quarter of a teaspoon of 
bi-carbonate of soda; pour over this a gill of hot water; stir 
until the soda is melted, then quickly turn it over the porridge 
in the bowl. Mix well, turn it out on a bake board, knead it 
into a round, flat mass, just as you would bread. Roll out the 
dough to about a quarter of an inch thick ; divide it into three 
and bake it on a hot griddle. This must be baked exceedingly 
slow; when baked carefully on both sides, remove them from 
the fire, and when ready to use toast them slowly for ten 
minutes. 

Oatmeal Breakfast Cakes. 

Wet a pint of No. 2 oatmeal or granulated oatmeal with 
sufficient water to saturate it w r ell and pour into a shallow pan, 
making it half an inch thick or less. Bake twenty minutes in 
quick oven. Break it like sponge cake and eat warm. It can 
be made either crisp or moist. Corn meal cooked in the same 
manner and eaten at once, is equally good. One would not be- 
lieve without trying, how palatable and satisfying such simple 
dishes can be made. Without butter, sugar or eggs and slight- 
ly salted, the true flavor of the grain is developed. 

Panacakes. 

To bake panacakes with comfort do not grease the griddle; 
if the cakes stick add a teaspoon of butter to the batter; it is 
much better to have it there than on the hot griddle, where it 
burns and fills the house with a vile smoke. Turn the griddle 
often to keep the heat even. When using a gas range set the 
cake griddle on two open griddles instead of one. Keep the 
cake turner free from batter aud clear off all drops and crumbs 
before putting on fresh batter. Let each cake bake until full 
of holes and dry at the rim, turn only once and let it stand till 
it has done puffing. Cakes made with a large proportion of 
cooked material like rice, crumbs, etc., can be cooked more 
quickly than when made wholly of flour. 

French Pancakes. 

Two cups flour, three eggs, one tablespoon sugar, a little salt, 
one cup of milk. Heat well together for five minutes and fry 
in hot butter, roll up and till with any kind of fruit, sprinkle a 
little powdered sugar over the top and serve hot. 



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62 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Pan Cakes, No. 1. 

Make a batter with one pint of flour and one heaping tea- 
spoon baking powder well sifted, add one and one-half cups 
milk, beat two eggs, one-half cup melted butter, a little salt, 
mix well and bake by the spoonful on hot griddle. 

Pan Cakes, No. 2. 

One pint flour, one-half teaspoon salt and one teaspoon 
crushed soda sifted together, add one pint sour milk, two table- 
spoons butter melted and two well beaten eggs ; beat well with 
broad spoon, drop from the point of a tablespoon. Try one- 
half graham or one-third corn meal for a variety. Cook the 
last more slowly. 

Add one pint huckleberries, cleaned and rolled in flour, or 
one cup peaches cut tine, laid in sugar for one hour, or cherries 
stewed sweet and drained. These are quite as nice as the 
French pancakes and more digestible. 

When eggs are scarce the cakes may be made with less or 
even with none, but the amount of milk should be diminished 
and the beating, not stirring, increased. 

Pan Cakes with Rice. 

No. 1. One pint soft boiled rice, stir in while hot two table- 
spoons butter and let cool, add one-half cup milk, one-half cup 
flour and two well beaten eggs. 

No. 2 One pint soft boiled rice, if cold heat with two table- 
spoons milk, mixing thoroughly with a fork; add one cup sour 
milk, one cup flour in which there is one scant teaspoon of soda 
and two well beaten eggs. 

No. 3. One-half pint boiled rice, crushed and beaten grad- 
ually into one quart milk, three cups flour sifted with three 
teaspoons baking powder and one-half teaspoon salt, add two 
ounces softened butter and two eggs beaten separately, folding 
the whites in carefully the last thing. 

These three rules are a very good epitome of the countless 
variations one sees in cook books and newspapers. With these 
for a standard one can vary at pleasure with crumbs, hominy, 
oatmeal, sweet corn, etc. 

Crumb Pancakes. 

Into a double boiler put one tablespoon of butter, one and a 
half cups coarse crumbs and one pint sweet milk; steam till 
tender and rub through a sieve or Henes press. When cool add 
the beaten yolks of two eggs and one cup flour in which two 
teaspoons baking powder have been sifted. Beat the whites 
stiff with a pinch of salt and fold in lightly; they should be 
baked rather more slowly than the ordinary pancakes. If they 
stick add a little melted butter, stirring in very carefully 

Graham Pancakes. 

Make a sponge as for bread with one pint milk, scalded and 
cooled, one-quarter ounce yeast dissolved in the milk, with one 
teaspoon sugar and one of salt, one cup graham or whole wheat 
flour, one cup flour. Let it rise over night in a cool place. 
Add one saltspoon soda dissolved in two tablespoons milk, 
beat well, try a spoonful, and add more milk or soda to make it 
right. Wheat bread sponge may be used in the same way. 

Buckwheat Cakes. 

Mix one-half cup of corn meal and one-half teaspoon of salt 
with one pint boiling water, beat well and when cool add one-half 
cup white flour and one cup buckwheat, with one-quarter ounce 
dissolved yeast ; in the morning pour off the discolored water that 
lies on top of the batter and dilute with one-half cup of milk in 
which is dissolved one saltspoon of soda. Butter the griddle 
lightly and bake in small cakes quickly; the batter is so thin that 
they do not need much time. They should be thin, crisp 
andf full of bubbles. Beat the batter and add more milk or 
soda if needed before sending to the table. They will brown 
better if made with milk, but will not be so crisp; a tablespoon 
of molasses may be added. Save a cup of the batter to serve 
as yeast for the next time, they improve with repeated use. The 
griddle for these cakes as well as a waffle iron must be well 
greased; fold a Ave inch strip of cotton, roll it around the end 
of a pine stick, fasten it with a tack and when the cakes are 
baked burn it. 

Potato Pancakes. 

Peel large potatoes over night and keep them in cold water; 
grate, drain, and for every pint allow two eggs, beaten sep- 
arately, one-half teaspoon salt, a dust of pepper and one table- 
spoon flour, more or less according to the quality of the pota- 
toes. Brown in thin cakes in butter. In winter use with meat, 
in summer try tomato or any brown sauce. 



Waffles. 

Any of the recipes for pancakes can be cooked in a waffle 
iron by adding more butter to make the proportion equal two 
ounces butter to each pint of flour. Tolks and whites are 
best beaten separately. 

French Waffles. 

One cup butter, one cup sugar, beaten together as if for 
cake, add singly yolks of seven eggs, one tablespoon brandy, 
and the grated peel of one-half lemon or one saltspoon mace. 
Add alternately three cups flour and one pint of milk, beating 
until it is full of bubbles, then add one ounce yeast, dissolved, 
and the stiff whites of the eggs; let it rise three hours.— Mrs. 
Bayard Taylor. 

German Waffles. (Pfann-Kuchen.) 

One-half cup butter, rub to a cream, add one cup powdered 
sugar and the yolks of eight eggs, one at a time; add alter- 
nately a scant cup milk, and two cups flour, in which two 
teaspoons baking powder, one-half teaspoon 6alt and some 
grated lemon peel have been sifted. — Mrs. Bayard Taylor. 

PASTRY. 
Puff Paste. 

One pound flour (one quart), one teaspoon salt, one-third 
pound butter, well rubbed together till like meal. If your hands 
are hot, chop it together without touching it with the hands. 
Mix stiff as possible with ice water and pat out on the board to 
about one-third of an inch thick; lay this sheet of paste on ice 
while two-thirds pounds butter is washed and worked in cold 
water until waxy. Divide it in four parts and pat each out to as 
thm a cake as you can, it is no matter if it is broken through in 
holes. Set these sheets of butter on ice also. Now dust the 
board and pin slightly with flour, place the sheet of paste on it 
and one sheet of butter on the middle of the paste; fold the 
paste over the butter in such a way as to divide the paste in 
thirds, then turn over the ends letting them meet in the middle; 
the paste is now in rectangular shape, and with a little care in 
rolling can be kept so through all the subsequent foldings and 
rollings. Roll out to one quarter inch thick and fold as before, 
but without butter. The third time of folding enclose the 
second piece of butter, and continue adding it at every alternate 
rolling until it has all been used; as there were four sheets of 
butter that will make eight times folding and rolling the paste. 
Finally give one, two or three extra turns, as your patience 
holds out; lay on ice until needed for use; it is better to lie for 
several hours before being baked. If the paste sticks to the 
board or pin lay on ice until chilled through, scrape the board 
clean, polish with a dry cloth and dust with fresh flour before 
tryinglagain. A stone slab is a comfort but not at all necessary. 
Use as little flour in rolling as possible, but use enough to keep 
the paste dry. Boll with a light, even, long stroke in every 
direction, but never work the rolling-pin back and forth, as that 
kneads the paste and toughens it, besides breaking the bubbles 
of air. The number of layers of butter and paste makes it flaky, 
but every bubble of air that is folded in helps it to rise and puff 
in baking. 

To Bake Puff Paste. 

The dough should be ice cold when put into the oven. If it 
softens while being cut into the desired shape, place it on the 
ice again until hard. The oven should be as hot as for baking 
white bread; set it on the floor of the oven at first until risen to 
its full height, then slip a grate under to keep from burning 
while baking through and browning; if the oven is too hot the 
paste will set and scorch before it is risen; if too cold it will melt 
and spread or slip out of shape. The exact temperature can 
only be learned by practice. 

For Pies. 

Roll the paste out about one-third of an inch thick, then 
roll up and cut from the end of the roll. Turn each piece on 
the side so that the folds show the rings, pat out flat, then roll 
a trifle larger than the plate. This should be used for the upper 
crust only, and for a rim if desired; if used for under crust it is 
always sodden and indigestible. 

Tarts. 

Are rolled as thin as convenient and cut with a fluted cutter. 
They are served cold, tilled with jelly or jam. 

Chopped or Rough Puff Pastry. 

One pound flour, fourteen ounces butter, one teaspoon salt, 
one cup ice water. Have flour, salt and butter ice cold and 
chop the butter into it until there are no bits larger than a bean. 
Pour in the water slowly, tossing the mass together until a little 






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WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



03 



more than half of the Hour is moistened. Turn on the rolling- 
board, gather with a long knife into a square mound and press 
down with a cold rolling-pin, rolling gently till the mass is 
three times as long as it is wide, With a broad-hladed knife 
turn over the ends so as to fold it in thirds and roll out again; 
repeat, gathering all the loose crumbs between the folds at each 
turn, until the loose pieces form a consistent sheet of paste. It 
will usually need four turns, though three are sometimes enough. 
This can be shaped and baked at once, but is more flaky if 
allowed to chill on ice for an hour or more. 

Plain Pastry. 

One cup of flour, heaping, one saltspoon baking powder, one 
saltspoon salt, one-quarter cup lard, one-quarter cup butter, 
mix baking powder and salt with the flour; rub in the lard and 
butter till fine and dry like meal. Mix to a stiff paste with ice 
water; this makes a tender, crispy crust, but not in the least 
flaky. If baked quickly and thoroughly it is as little hurtful 
to the digestion as any pastry can be. To make it somewhat 
flaky rub in only the lard, pat and roll out to one-third inch 
thick, dot on one-half the butter in thin pieces, dust on flour 
and fold in thirds; pat and roll out again, dot with remainder 
of butter and roll up like a jelly roll; cut from the end as 
directed for puff paste and it will give a fairly handsome crust 
if properly done. All pastry needs a quick oven at first to keep 
it from melting. Never grease the pie plate. All pies made 
with an upper crust should have holes cut to let the steam 
escape or the crust will be likely to be sodden on the underside. 
Tin or granite ware plates are much the best, as they cannot 
soak grease and they bake the under crust more quickly and per- 
fectly. The English fashion of baking all fruit pies in deep 
dishes, with no under crust, is admirable, being far more deli- 
cious as well as more wholesome. Their meat and game pies, 
made in the same way, win favor wherever they are introduced. 

Apple Pie. 

Line a plate with plain paste, fill with apples that have 
been pared, cored and cut in eighths. Pile as high above 
the edge as the bottom of the plate is below. Cover with either 
chopped or puffed paste, and bake till apples are soft, about 
thirty minutes. (Try them with a straw.) When done boil 
three-quarters cup sugar in one-quarter cup of water five min- 
utes. Pour this syrup boiling hot through the holes in the crust. 
Tilt the pie a little until the syrup shows through on every side. 
If you choose to put in the sugar before baking, sprinkle three- 
quarters cup over the apples when the pie is little more than 
one-half full, cover with remainder of apples and put on crust as 
usual. Cut a bias strip of cotton one inch wide and long enough 
to go around the plate, wring it out of cold water and bind the 
edge of the pie with it. If pulled from the pie as soon as taken 
from the oven, it will leave no mark. 

Creamed Apple Tart." 

Line a small, deep pudding dish, with pastry, pack in one 
and a half pint cut apples, with three-quarters cup of brown 
sugar and grated rind and juice of one-half lemon. Cover 
and bake till well done. Lift the crust and pour in one pint 
boiled custard. Return the cover and let it be ice cold when 
served. This is an old fashioned, Dutch dish. Whipped cream 
may be used for a filling; in this case heap it high and do not 
put the cover on again. 

Pie Plant Pie. 

Wash the stalks and cut into inch bits without peeling, pour 
boiling water over it and let it stand ten minutes, drain and 
dredge lightly with flour; for a ten inch plate allow a heaping 
cup of sugar, dot with one tablespoon butter cut in bits the size 
of a pea, cover and bake in a quick oven for the first ten min- 
utes, then more slowly until done, about thirty minutes in all. 

Custard Pie. 

Line a deep plate with a rim. Heat one pint of milk, rub 
one teaspoon flour smooth with one-half cup cold milk, add to 
the boiling milk and cook five minutes. Pour upon three beaten 
eggs, one-half cup of sugar, one saltspoon salt and flavor to 
taste, one-half teaspoon lemon or one teaspoon vanilla. Strain 
* hot into the plate, bake slowly, never letting it boil. It is done 
when a knife blade makes a clean cut. 

Pumpkin Pie. 

One cup of stewed and sifted pumpkin (or squash), one level 
teaspoon salt, one saltspoon mace, one teaspoon cinnamon, two- 
thirds cup sugar, one beaten egg well mixed together, 
pour over one cup each of cream and milk boiling hot, fill the 
. plate and set into oven as quickly as possible; if pumpkin is 
watery add one teaspoon flour. It is done when it rises well in 
the middle. A rim of puff paste can be laid around the edge 



of the plate if liked, if used it should he at least one inch 
wide and the edge that goes down into the squash rolled very 
thin. Tor potato pie use boiled and sifted sweet potato in 
place of pumpkin. 

Sliced Potato Pic. 

lloil sweet potatoes until well done. Peel and slice them. 
Line a deep pie pan with good plain paste ami arrange the 
sliced potatoes in layers, dotting with butter ami sprinkling 
sugar, cinnamon and "nutmeg over each layer, using at least one- 
half cup sugar. Pour over three tablespoons whiskey, about 
one-half cup water, cover with pastry and bake. Serve warm. 
—Mrs. J. B. 8. Holmes, Rom ■ , Oa. 

Lemon Pie, No. 1. 

One cup of milk, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon corn- 
starch cooked over hot water for at least fifteen minutes, one 
saltspoon salt, the yolks of three eggs and the white of one 
egg, grated rind and juice of one lemon. Fill the paste while 
hot and bake quick. Beat the whites of two eggs stiff, add 
slowly two tablespoons of sifted powdered sugar, spread over 
the pie as soon as it comes out of the oven and return it to dry 
and brown slightly. 

N. B. Leave the door ajar. 

Lemon Pie, No. 2. 

Grated rind and juice of one lemon, one cup sugar, one-half 
cup of milk, two tablespoons cracker dust, two eggs, one salt- 
spoon salt. Good baked in old fashioned way between two 
crusts, but better used to fill shallow muffin pans that have been 
lined with rough puff paste; cover with a meringue. 

Cherry Tart. 

Pick over one and one-half pounds of cherries; turn a tiny cup 
upside down in the middle of a deep pie dish, fill around it with 
the fruit, add sugar to taste. Lay a wide strip of plain paste 
around the edge of the dish, cover and press the edges firmly 
together with a pastry jagger, bake in hot oven and serve with 
powdered sugar sprinkled thickly on top. All juicy fruits are 
most excellent cooked in the same way. 

Mirlitons. 

Pound and sift six macaroons, add one tablespoon grated 
chocolate and one pint hot milk. Let stand ten minutes and 
then add the yolks of three eggs well beaten, one tablespoon 
sugar, one teaspoon vanilla. Line patty tins with puff or 
chopped paste, fill with the mixture and bake in a quick oven 
twenty minutes. 

Brambles. 

One lemon grated whole, one cup raisins, seeded and chopped 
fine, one-half cup sugar, one egg, one tablespoon cracker dust, 
bake in "turnovers'' or patty pans, or better still, roll trimmings 
of puff paste as thin as possible, put a layer on a baking sheet, 
spread with above mixture and cover with another flat of paste. 
Mark off with a pastry jagger in strips four inch long by two 
inch wide and bake in a quick oven. These are nice with a thin 
icing and are delicious with cocoa for lunch. Another richer 
filling is made by chopping very fine one quarter pounds figs, 
two ounces citron, one quarter cup pistachio nuts (or almonds), 
two ounces seeded raisins, add one egg well beaten and use like 
the above. 

Mince Pies, Plain. 

Two coffee cups chopped beef and small piece, about four 
ounces, of fat salt pork, four coffee cups sugar, one nuthieg, one 
coffee cup molasses, two lemons, rind and juice, or sour orange, 
four teaspoons salt, two cups cider, boiled with the molasses, 
four teaspoons cinnamon, four cups of chopped fruit (raisins, 
citron, currants), one teaspoon cloves, one cup suet, finely 
chopped. Mix and scald, pack down in jars and pour a little 
brandy on top. When used, add six cups apple and stoned 
raisins ad /il. 

Mince Pies, Richer. 

One pound fresh beef, one pound tongue, one-half pound salt 
pork (scalded) chopped very line, one pound large raisins, seeded, 
one pound Sultana raisins, one pound currants, three-quarter 
pound "A" sugar, three-quarters pound granulated sugar cara- 
mel, one pint of rich stock, one pint of boiled cider, fruit juice or 
soft jelly, simmer till well blended. Add one tablespoon salt, 
two teaspoons cinnamon, one teaspoon allspice, one teaspoon 
clove, one teaspoon mace, one teaspoon nutmeg, one-half pound 
citron, shredded. Cool and taste; add more seasoning if liked. 
Pack in glass jars, pouring two tablespoons of brandy on the 
top of each. When ready to use, add two and one-half cups of 
chopped raw apples to each cup of the mince; partly cook and 
put into the pies hot, adding lemon (grated rind and juice) and 
rose water, : f liked. 



/ 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



USE THE WORLD RENOWNED 



Washburn, Crosby Co. 




The Perfect Bread and Pastry Flour.- 

The Washburn Crosby Co. 

FL0UR 



G) 



WILL YIELD FROM 



40 to 60 Pounds more Bread to the Barrel 



THAN FLOUR MADE FROM WINTER WHEAT. 



. . . ONE TRIAL Ax^D YOU WILL USE NO OTHER. . . 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



65 



if, 



Genoese Pastry. 

Four ounces of flour, throe of butter, four of almond paste, 
and five eggs, Melt the butter in a bowl, taking care it does 

not get very hot. Break the eggs into a bowl, add the sugar to 
them, stand the bowl in a saucepan of boiling water and whip 
eggs and sugar for twenty minutes, but they must not gel very 
hot; take the bowl from the water, add the almond paste, 
crumbled line, to it, beat till smooth then add the butter, and 
last of all sift in the Hour, stirring lightly all the t hue. Line a 
round, jelly-cake pan with buttered paper, neatly fitted and 
standing an inch above the edge; bake in a rather quick oven 
for half an hour. When it is done, no mark should remain 
on it when pressed with the linger. 

The Easiest Way in Cake Making. 

Make ready all the materials before beginning to put any 
cake together: that is, see that flour, butter and sugar are 
weighed" or measured as the recipe calls for. Let the lire be 
in good condition to finish baking without putting on fresh 
coal. If the fire is too hot, discourage it by leaving the 
griddles open for five minutes or less, then sprinkle on a little 
fresh coal without increasing the draft. Leave the oven doors 
open a few minutes before putting in a sponge cake, if it is 
still too fierce. If too hot on top, set a pan of cold water on 
the grate above the cake— never lay a paper over it. Thin 
cakes need a hotter oven than loaves and should bake in ten 
minutes; sheets of cake in from fifteen minutes to one-half 
hour; loaves from one-half hour to an hour, while fruit cake 
will require from two to four hours. Do not attempt to bake a 
fruit cake weighing over fifteen pounds in an ordinary stove 
oven. Send it to some first-class baker unless you c- so fort- 
unate as to have an old-fashioned brick oven in your house. 
Whatever kind of cake you are baking, divide the time into 
quarters; during the first quarter it should not change except 
by rising; during the second it should finish rising aiid begin 
to brown; during the third and fourth finish browning, settle a 
very little and shrink from the pan. On first taking from the 
oven, set for a few minutes on a stove hearth or shelf where 
you can barely hold your hand. A very light, delicate cake 
will fall if cooled too quickly, or shaken while hot. 

Pans should be greased with sweet lard or unsalted beef fat, 
as butter scorches so easily; line them with paper and grease 
the paper very little; if the paper is thin, not at all. In baking 
pound or fruit cake, line the pan with more than one thick- 
ness of paper; on the bottom there may be as many as six, 
but in such cases only the layer next to the cake needs to be 
greased. 

Mix cake in an earthen bowl and always with a wooden 
spoon (or the hand). Use only the best materials; it is better 
to go without cake than try to make it, or eat it when made 
with "cooking" butter, second rate eggs or low grade baking 
powders. 

Coarse texture with large holes shows insufficient beating 
and too large a measure of baking powder. Brown sugar may 
be used for fruit cake, but finest granulated (or sifted) is the 
best. Coarse granulated sugar makes a heavy cake with a hard 
sticky crust, powdered sugar makes a tight, close-grained cake, 
and measure for measure is not as sweet as the granulated, if 
weighed, there is not much, if any, difference. The recipes in 
this book are proportioned for patent flour; if pastry flour is 
used, take about one-eighth more. All flour should be sifted 
once before measuring. 

Never beat eggs until the last possible moment before using: 
in beating whites of eggs with a Dover beater, hold it as nearly 
as possible to the horizontal instead of perpendicular and 
there will be nearly one-half greater bulk of foam than when 
beaten as usual. Eggs will beat up lighter if laid on ice till 
chilled through before using. Baking powder should be sifted 
with a part of the flour and added with the white of an egg 
at the last. 

Measure exactly, and use all the materials. A teaspoon of 
butter left sticking to the measuring cup, a tablespoon of milk 
spilled on the table, one-half an egg left not wiped from the 
shells or at the bottom of the bowl in which it was beaten, 
does make a difference in the cake. With a small palette knife 
it is possible to scrape out the last speck of butter, every atom 
of egg, each grain of sugar and flour. 

In making butter cake mixtures observe the following order. 
Warm the bowl, and scald wooden spoon with boiling water, 
then wipe dry. Rub ' butter to a cream, add sugar and beat 
again until light. If the proportion of sugar is more than 
double the butter, beat a part of it with the yolks of the eggs. 
Add a tablespoon of flour to prevent curdling before putting 
in any liquid; beat in the beaten yolks, then add milk and 
flour alternately, Aaking care not to let the mixture become 
very still nor verf soft; lastly add the beaten whites, and beat 



long and hard to make sure of having it smooth and line 
grained. Fruit should be added last, or if in thin large pieces, 
ft may be put in layers as the dough is put into pans. 

Ice is baked when it shrinks from the pan and stops 
hissing: or when a straw thrust into the center comes out 
Clean, Let stand on a warm surface five minutes or less, then 
turn out on a sieve or wire netting (a window screen will do), 
remove paper at mice, peeling it back in narrow strips to avoid 
taking off the brown crust. If the cake should happen to 
burn, rasp the too brown portion with a coarse grater. 

There are really but two elementary forms of cake— that 
made with butter, known as pound cake, and that made with- 
out butter, known as sponge cake. The modilicat ion of pound 
cake, in which the proportion of Hour is increased with the ad- 
dition of milk, is called cup-cake, and this makes the basis of 
almost all the plain loaf and layer cakes. Whenever the 
measure of butter is made scant, the flour should be dimin- 
ished in proportion; if the quantity of egg is lessened, the 
milk must be lessened also, or the flour increased. 

In the following recipes proportions only will be given, full 
directions for putting together having been already given. The 
few exceptions to the general rule will be given in detail. 

Sponge Cake, No. 1. 

Six eggs, once their weight in finest granulated sugar, one- 
half their weight in flour, one-half teaspoon salt, the grated 
rind and juice of one lemon. Beat the eggs, yolks and whites 
together, with a spoon-whisk for twenty minutes, beating with 
a long, steady stroke; sift in the sugar with the left hand, keep- 
ing up the beating with the right, then add lemon juice and 
rind and lastly fold in the flour, not beating any more. If it 
has been put together right it will have a light spongy texture 
and seem rather dry. Bake in a rather deep tin about fifty 
minutes. Do not open the oven door for the first fifteen 
minutes, at the end of that time it should begin to rise, at the 
end of the next fifteen minutes it should double its bulk and 
by the end of the next twenty minutes it should be sufficiently 
browned and baked through. 

Sponge Cake, No. 2. 

Three eggs beaten to a cream, one and one-half cups of sugar, 
add one-half cup of cold water, two cups of flour in which has 
been sifted two teaspoons baking powder, one saltspoon salt 
and flavoring to suit the taste. (N. B. Try grated rind of one- 
half lemon.) Beat hard for two minutes and bake thirty to 
forty minutes in a rather quick oven. 

Berwick Sponge. 

Same recipe as above but the cake is beaten five minutes for 
each ingredient added. 

Jelly Roll. 

One cup flour, one cup sugar, one and one-half teaspoons 
baking powder, three eggs well beaten. Mix in order given, 
beat well and pour into a smooth, well-greased pan; bake slow, 
spread jelly over and roll it up. 

Note. — Have ready a smooth sheet of brown paper well 
dusted with powdered sugar, turn your cake on it and spread 
quickly with the jelly which should be well broken with a fork 
if at all stiff. With a sharp knife trim off all the crusty edges 
and roll it by lifting one side of the paper. The cake will break 
if allowed to cool before rolling. To keep the roll perfectly 
round hang it up in a cloth till cool. 

Children's Sponge Cake. 

One and one-half cups Hour, two teaspoons baking powder, 
one cup sugar, two eggs broken into a cup and the cup filled 
with milk or cream." Stir all together in a mixing bowl, beat 
hard for live minutes and bake about ten minutes in muffin 
pans or a large pan with a chimney. 

Graham Sponge Cake. 

Use recipes either No. 1 or 2, substituting sifted graham 
meal for flour and making the measure round instead of level. 

Sunshine Cake. 

Eleven whites of eggs, six yolks of eggs, one teaspoon cream 
of tartar, one and one-half cups sifted granulated sugar, one. 
cup patent tiour. one teaspoon extract orange. Beat whites 
till stiff and flaky, then whisk in one-half the sugar, beat yolks 
very light and add flavor and one-half the sugar, put yolks and 
whites together and fold in Hour and cream of tartar, mixing 
as quickly as possible. Bake fifty to sixty minutes in a slow 
oven, using Angel Cake pan. 



66 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Angel Cake. 

One and one-half cups granulated sugar, measured after 
sifting, one cup of pastry flour, one teaspoon cream of tartar, 
sift together eight times, then sift flour and sugar together 
three times. Beat the whites of eleven eggs with a wire 
beater, until they are dry and flaky. Pour over one teaspoon 
vanilla, fold in the mixture of flour and sugar. Get into a 
moderate oven as quickly as possible and bake about, one hour. 
The pan should have a chimney and little legs on top so that 
when turned over a current of air can pass under it. Do not 
grease the pan. Never try to take it out, but stand upside 
down till it drops of itself. — Mrs. Lincoln. 

Note— Some authorities advise sifting the cream of tartar 
into the eggs when about half beaten. This prevents the cake 
from falling, but makes a closer grain than when mixed with 
the flour. 

Orange Cake, No. 1. 
2 cups sugar, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

i cup butter (scant), 5 eggs (omit one white), 

2 cups flour, Grated rind of one orange, 

J cup orange juice. 

Filling and Frosting. 

White of one egg beaten stiff; add alternately powdered 
sugar and orange juice till the juice of one large orange and 
one-half a lemon has been used. It will take from one and 
one-half to two cups XXX sugar. 

Orange Cake, No. 2. 

Two eggs, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon melted butter, 
one-half cup of milk, one and one-half cups of flour, two tea- 
spoons baking powder, one tablespoon of orange juice, one 
teaspoon grated rind, mix in order given, bake in square pan, 
split and till with orange cream. 

Orange Cream. 
Put into a cup the rind of one-half and the juice of one 
orange, one tablespoon of lemon juice, and fill with hot 
water. Strain and put on to boil, add one tablespoon corn 
starch, wet with cold water and cook ten minutes, being care- 
ful not to scorch. Beat yolk of one egg with two heaping 
teaspoons sugar, add to the mixture with one teaspoon butter, 
let cook until the butter is dissolved, and cool. Fill the cake 
with cream and frost with orange icing.— Boston Cook Book. 

Lemon Cake. 

Is made by the above recipe, using lemon instead of orange. 

Pine Apple Cake. 

Same recipe using pineapple juice and pulp instead of orange, 
and frosting the top and sides with live-minute frosting. 

Pineapple Cake, No. 2. 

One-half pound butter, one-half pound sugar beaten to a 
cream; add the well beaten yolks of three eggs, two cups flour, 
in which has been sifted two teaspoons baking powder. Flavor 
with two tablespoons pineapple juice; or use two tablespoons 
water and one-fourth teaspoon mace with one-half teaspoon 
vanilla. Bake in three jelly cake tins. 

Filling.— Boil two cups sugar with two-thirds cup cream for 
ten minutes. Take from the fire and beat till thick and smooth. 
To one-third of this add one cup grated pineapple to spread be- 
tween the layers. To the remaining two-thirds add enough pine- 
apple juice to make it spread smoothly for an icing. 

Ashland Cake. 

i cup butter. J cup milk. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup flour. 

4 eggs, whites. I cup corn starch. 

10 drops lemon extract. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

Bake in two deep jelly cake tins. 
Filling for Above— Two cups granulated sugar, one- 
quarter cup of boiling water. Boil till it will spin, then pour 
slowly boiling hot on the well beaten whites of two eggs beat- 
ing all the time. Beat till thick enough not to run, then add 
one-half teaspoon citric acid (powdered), one teaspoon each of 
lemon and vanilla, spread between the layers and over the cake, 
or, ice with maple fondant. 

Plunkets. 

Cream one-half pound butter, add gradually one-half pound 
granulated sugar. Separate six eggs. Beat whites until stiff 
beat yolks, add them to the whites, then to butter and sugar. 
Sift together twice six ounces cornstarch, two ounces flour and 
one teaspoon baking powder and add gradually to the other 
mixture; add one teaspoon vanilla. Bake in patty pans fifteen 
minutes. — Mrs. Sorer. 



Quisset Cake. 

One-half cup butter rubbed to a cream with one and one-half 
cups sugar, add yolks of three eggs well beaten with two table- 
spoons of milk, one and one-half cups flour (heaping) in which 
has been sifted two level teaspoons baking powder, one-hall' 
cup milk, six tablespoons chocolate melted over hot water, and 
lastly three whites of egg. Bake in two narrow loaves. 

Frosting.— Two cups granulated sugar, three fourths cup 
milk, one ounce butter. Boil fifteen minutes, beat till thick, 
spread while warm. Is best after the third day. 

One Egg Cake. 

One-half cup butter, one cup of sugar, one egg, two cups 
of flour, one cup of sweet milk, two teaspoons baking powder. 
Mix well and bake in a hot oven. 

Cup Cake. 

1 cup butter, 1 cup milk, 

2 cups sugar, 4 eggs, 

3J cups flour, 1 heaping teaspoon baking 

powder. 

Put together according to general directions, bake in two 
brick loaves or one large one. 

Using but half a cup of butter and a scant measure of sugar 
makes a plain cup cake that is useful for layer. 

A heaping tablespoon of yellow ginger makes this cake a 
most delicious ginger bread. Omit the milk and add enough 
flour to roll out and it can be baked as jumbles, or with half 
the milk and flour to roll out, as cookies. 

White Cup Cake. 

Same as above, using eight egg whites instead of four whole 
eggs. The yolks of ti eggs with one whole one makes an ex- 
cellent gold cake. 

Delicate Cake. 

\ cup butter, J cup milk, 

1J cup sugar, 4 eggs (whites only), 

2 cups flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

Almond, vanilla or lemon extract for flavoring. Makes one 
sheet. 

Layer Cakes. 

Make once the rule for pound cake, adding grated rind and 
juice of one-half lemon, and divide it into quarters; into the 
first put three large tablespoons vanilla chocolate grated, into 
the second one cup almonds blanched and grated, into the 
third one-fourth pound each raisins and currants, or one- 
quarter pound citron, into the fourth one cup butternut meats 
cut fine. Put the layers together with boiled icing and ice the 
sides and top thickly. 

Marsh Mallow. 

Make once the rule for white cup cake, baking in three layers; 
make a boiled frosting with one and one-half cups sugar, one- 
half cup water, three egg whites, one-half teaspoon citric acid 
and one teaspoon vanilla. Spread a layer of icing between the 
cakes, and into each layer of icing press marsh mallows cut in 
halves, setting them as thick as possible; after the top is iced 
set marsh mallow thickly around the edge. If they are put in 
while the cake and icing are warm they will soften enough to 
blend well. 

Chocolate. 

Once the rule for cup-cake— bake in three layers. Filling No. 1 . 
Three teaspoons corn starch, quarter pound grated chocolate, 
one cup sugar, heaping, one ounce butter, mixed; when melted 
add one cup boiling milk, cook fifteen minutes in double- 
boiler, beating hard until glossy, cool five minutes, add two 
teaspoons vanilla, a speck of salt and spread while w-arrn. 

Filling, No. 2. 

Melt one-quarter pound baker's chocolate over warm water 
and stir it into twice the rule for boiled icing, spread while 
warm as it stiffens quickly. If too firm, beat in slowly sweet 
cream until as thin as desired. 

Fig. 

Make one-half the measure of cup-cake and one-half the 
white cup cake. Bake in square cake tins and put together 
alternately with the rule for boiled frosting. Add three-quarters 
pound of figs chopped fine. Ornament the top with choice figs 
cut in slices or strips. 

Fig. No. 2. 

Split the figs and lay them flat in the layers of white cake be- 
fore baking. Put the layers together with one pound figs, 
chopped line and stewed till soft in syrup made with one cup 
water and one-half cup sugar. 



/ 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Fruit Filling. 

One cup stoned raisins, one-half pound blanched almonds, 
one-hair pound figs, one-half pound citron, all chopped line, 
add enough frosting to make a soft paste. 

Lemon Filling. 
The prated rind and juice of one large lemon, one cup sugar, 
two eggs (or four yolks), one-half ounce butter; simmer all to- 
gether for ten minutes and use when cool. 

Almond Cream Filling. 

The whites of two eggs beaten stiff, with two cups of XXX 
sugar, one teaspoon extract vanilla, one pint blanched almonds 

chopped line. Walnuts, pecans, hickory and butternuts are 
used in the same way. 

Pound Cake. 

Wash and dry half a pound of butter. Beat it with the 
hand until it is quite creamy, then add hall' a pound of sugar. 
Heat, it until it is like the lightest and whitest hard sauce, then 
add one egg, beat until it is quite incorporated, then add 
another and beat again, and so on until live, eggs are used. 
Take great care that each egg is completely incorporated be- 
fore the next is added; this requires from three to live minutes' 
beating between each egg, according as your strokes are vig- 
orous or slow, and on sufficient beating the success of the cake 
depends. 

When eggs, sugar and butter look like thick yellow cream, 
add gradually a small sherry-glass of wine or brandy, and half 
a wine-glass of rose water. Mix well together, then sift to the 
ingredients half a pound of linest hour, well dried, and very 
Slightly warm, to which half a saltspoon of salt has been 
added. Line a round cake pan with upright sides with but- 
tered paper, neatly titted, and pour the batter into it, and sift 
powdered sugar over the surface. 

Hake this cake one hour and a half in a very slow oven. It 
should have a cardboard cover laid on the top for the first 
hour, which may then be removed and the cake allowed to 
brown slowly. In turning, be very careful not to shake 
or jar it. 

Wedding Cake. 

Double the measures in the above mixture, add two eggs, 
making twelve in all, and omit llavoring. Add two tea- 
is each of cinnamon and mace, one teaspoon each of 
nutmeg and allspice, one-half teaspoon cloves, one ounce 
chocolate dissolved over warm water, two pounds raisins 
(weighed after seeding), two pounds Sultana raisins, two pounds 
currants, one and one-half pounds citron, two ounces each of 
candied lemon and orange peel, one pound shredded almonds 
which have been blanched and dried, two ounces brandy, two 
ounces port wine, two ounces strained honey. Let the Hour 
used for drying the fruit be in addition to the one pound of 
batter. Mix well and rest a few hours, overnight, if convenient; 
mix again before putting into pans. Should be made six months 
before it is needed and will keep indefinitely. 

Scotch Short Bread. 



1 pound flour, 

\ pound powdered sugar, 



i pound butter, 
\ ounce caraway seeds or \ 
pound caraway comfits. 
Beat butter to a cream, add flour, sugar and seeds mixed; 
knead the paste smooth, roll out one-half inch thick and cut in 
oblong cakes. Prick all over and bake in moderate oven one- 
half hour. 

Hickory Nut. 
One cup butter, two and a half cups sugar, one cup milk, five 
eggs, three and a half cups flour, two teaspoons baking powder, 
one pint hickory nut meats, one-half pound citron, one pound 
raisins, one ounce each candied lemon and orange peel. This 
makes two sheets. Bake one hour. 

Wedge Nut. 

Two cups sugar, six eggs, one tablespoon warm water, two 
teaspoons cream of tartar, one teaspoon soda, one teaspoon salt, 
two rounding cups flour, one pound Brazil nuts blanched and 
grated. Bake like a pound cake. 

Frosting — Two cups sugar, one teaspoon cream of tartar, 
one teaspoon corn starch, ten tablespoons water boiled till it 
spins. Beat slowly int6 whites of two eggs beaten stiff. Fla- 
vor with almond. — Miss Theodosia Stiles, Chicago. 

White Fruit. 

One cup butter, two cups sugar, three cups flour, eight eggs, 
whites, three level teaspoons" baking powder, one-half glass 
white wine, one-quarter pound citron," one-half pound almonds, 
three-quarters cup dessieated cocoanut, one cup light Sultana 
raisins. This makes two brick loaves. 



Bedford Jumbles. 
Two CUpS sugar, one CUp butter, beaten well together; add 

one-half cup flour and four well beaten eggs, • tablespoon 

vanilla anil flour enough i" roll out. One-half cup grated 
nut is a delicious addition, or finely shred almonds laid on 
each i 

One-half cup stoned and chopped raisins makes Hermits. 
Bake them one-quarter inch thick. 

Ranaque Buns. 

One-half pound butter, three-quarters pound sugar, one 
d Sour, three eggs, four teaspoons cinnamon. .Mix the 
cinnamon with the flour and beat into tin-' creamed butter; 
the sugar into the eggs, and then all together as little as possi- 
ble. Distribute by teaspoonfuls into rough-looking cakes p) 
at a little distance apart, on buttered tins. — Mrs. Henderson. 

Ginger Snaps. 

One cup molasses. poon soda, one-half cup sugar, one- 

half cup butter, one tablespoon ginger, flour to roll very thin. 
Mix molasses, sugar, ginger and butter, stir over the lire until 
the butter is melted, then stir in quickly four cups of flour in 
which has been sifted the pulverized soda. Knead the dough 
until it becomes smooth and set on ice, over night if possible. 
Roll as thin as pasteboard and bake in a quick oven. 

Ginger Cookies. 

One cup molasses, two tablespoons warm milk or water, one 
tablespoon ginger, one-half cup of soft butter, one teaspoon 
soda, flour to mix soft as can be handled on the board. Mix in 
order given, dissolving soda in the milk. Shape on a floured 
board into balls the size of a hickory nut. Lay on a sheet and 
flatten with a tin cup or smooth tumbler to one-half inch thick. 
— School Kitchen Text-Book. 

Ft. Atkinson Gingerbread. 

1 cup New Orleans molasses, 1 egg, 

1 cup boiling water, 1 teaspoon soda, 

2 cups flour, heaped, 1 teaspoon ginger, 

i cup butter, 2 tablespoons sugar. 

Stir butter and sugar together, then rub it into the flour till 
fine, add molasses and yolk of egg and beat well: lastly, add 
the boiling water and white of egg beaten stiff. Makes a thick 
sheet in a biscuit pan. "Easiest Way." 
1 cup molasses, i cup sugar, 

1 cup sour cream, 1 egg— beaten, 

2£ cups flour, 1 teaspoon ginger. 

} teaspoon nutmeg, 1 rounding teaspoon soda. 

Brandy Snaps. 

One-half pound XXX sugar, A pound flour, A pint molasses, 
1$ ounce butter; melt the butter in warm molasses, work in 
the flour and sugar quickly; drop in dots on a large sheet. 
Bake in an oven at about 300°.— 3Jiss Theodosia Stiles, Chicago. 

Brioche Paste. 

For two large loaves allow one quart flour, one heaping cup 
butter, one-half cup water, one tablespoon sugar, one teaspoon 
salt, one-half ounce yeast and eight eggs. Dissolve the yeast 
in the water which should be blood warm, and make into a 
sponge with one cup of flour, beating well. Cover and set in a 
warm place (aboutSCP) until it has doubled its bulk, it ought to 
take about half an hour. After the sponge has been set. put the 
remainder of the flour with the sugar, salt, butter and three of 
the eggs into a large bowl. Mix with the hand to a smooth 
paste, then add the other eggs, one at a time, beating the paste 
hard until smooth and light. The eggs should not be beaten 
first. Add the sponge to this paste as soon as it is light, cover 
and let rise again to double its bulk; it will take about six 
hours. Then beat it well, and set on or beside the ice in the ice- 
box for ten or twelve hours, and it will be ready for use. If the 
sponge is set at two o'clock p. m. and added to the paste at 
three p. m. it ought to be ready to set on the ice at nine in the 
evening, and will be ready for use in the morning. 

Baba. 

For one large loaf use three cups paste, one-half cup currants, 
one cup raisins, one-half cup wine. Soak the fruit over night 
in the wine. In the morning work all into the paste. Butter a 
deep mould and put the paste into it. Cover and let rise to 
double its bulk (about one and a half hours.) Bake in a 
moderate oven forty minutes. Turn upside down as soon as it 
comes from the oven. While the cake is cooling, make a syrup 
by boiling one cup sugar with three-fourths cup water for 
twelve minutes, add four tablespoons rum or any cordial, pour 
over the cake, being careful to wet the whole surface, and serve 
cold. 



68 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



Savarin. 

Work one-half cup candied orange peel, cut very fine, into 
four cups of the paste. Butter a round cake pan thickly with 
washed butter and sprinkle it with one cup chopped almonds. 
Bake as above and pour over a syrup flavored with anisette. 

Eclairs. 

Put one cup of boiling water and half a cup of butter in a 
large saucepan, and when it boils turn in one pint of flour. 
Beat well with the vegetable masher. When perfectly smooth, 
and velvety to the touch, remove from the fire, and as soon 
as cold break into it five eggs, one at a time, beating hard with 
the hand. When the mixture is thoroughly beaten (it will take 
about twenty minutes), spread on buttered sheets in oblong 
pieces about four inches long and one and a half wide. These 
must be about four inches apart. Bake in a rather quick oven 
for about twenty-five minutes. As soon as they are done, ice 
with either chocolate or vanilla frosting. When the icing is 
cold, cut the eclairs on one side and fill them. 

Make an icing with the whites of two eggs and a cup and a 
half of powdered sugar. Flavor with one teaspoon vanilla ex- 
tract. Frost the eclairs; and, when dry, open, and fill with a 
cream, the same as Chocolate Eclairs. They may be filled with 
cream sweetened, flavored with vanilla, and whipped to a stiff 
froth. Strawberry and raspberry preserves are sometimes used 
to fill Eclairs. They are then named after the fruit with which 
they are filled. 

Chocolate Eclairs. 

Put two squares of scraped chocolate with five tablespoons of 
powdered sugar and three of boiling water. Stir over the fire 
until smooth and glossy. Dip the tops of the eclairs in this 
as they come from the oven. When the chocolate icing is dry, 
cut open, and fill with this. Put one and a half cups of 
milk in the double boiler. Beat together two-thirds cup of 
sugar, one-fourth eup of flour, two eggs, and one-fourth tea- 
spoon of salt. Stir the mixture into the boiling milk. Cook 
fifteen minutes, stirring often. When cold, flavor with one 
teaspoon of vanilla. If chocolate is liked with the cream, one 
tablespoon of the dissolved chocolate may be added to it. 

Meringue Shells. 

The whites of two eggs, beaten until it will not slip out of the 
bowl, fold into it very gently three ounces of powdered sugar, 
remembering the rule that anything to be mixed with white of 
egg must be done with a light lifting motion of the spoon, 
rather than stirring, which may liquefy the eggs. Fill a 
tablespoon with the mixture and turn on to a sheet of white 
paper placed on a board which has been made a little damp, 
the mounds should be oval like half an egg. Put them in a 
very cool oven for fifteen or twenty minutes, then open the door 
and leave them ten minutes longer, the idea is to make the crust 
as thick as possible which is done by the long slow drying; if firm 
enough remove them from the paper, take out the moist center 
very carefully, and when cold fill them with cream, flavored, 
sweetened and whipped solid, then put two together; they 
should be overfull, and the cream show considerably between 
the two sides.— Catherine Owen. 

Doughnuts, No. 1. 

Two eggs beaten light, one cup sugar, one cup sour cream, 
four cups flour, one-half teaspoon soda, one teaspoon each of 
cinnamon and salt. Have board well floured and take on it one 
large spoon of dough, kneading gently till firm enough to roll 
out and cut. Mix the trimmings with a fresh spoon and roll 
again, repeating until all are used. Cook in fat hot enough to 
make them rise instantly to the top.— Mrs. Henderson. 

Note. — It is more satisfactory to have two teaspoons baking 
powder sifted with the flour, and scant the measure of soda. 

Doughnuts, No, 2. 
One cup New Orleans molasses, two eggs, one-half cup sweet 
milk, one tablespoon melted butter, one teaspoon each of ginger 
and cinnamon, two teaspoons baking powder, one teaspoon 
salt, flour to roll as soft as can be easilv handled. Fry as usual 
and roll in powdered sugar as soon as done.— Creole Cook Book. 

"Jolly Boys." 

One cup rye meal, one cup flour, one and one-half cups milk, 
one-half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking powder, two eggs 
well beaten. Mix all the dry ingredients. Add milk to the 
beaten egg and beat well together. Drop by teaspoons into 
hot fat, and fry till they are thoroughly done, about five min- 
utes. They will turn themselves if not too much crowded. 
Serve hot with maple syrup. 



Wafers. 

1 cup butter. 1 cup sweet milk. 

2 cups sugar. 3 eggs. 

3 heaping teaspoons baking powder. Nutmeg to taste. Flour 
to shape stiff. Mrs. J. A. Noyes. 

FROSTING. 

Five Minute. 

The white of one egg, one teaspoon lemon juice, one scant 
cup of powdered sugar stirred together until the sugar is all 
wet, then beat with a fork for just five minutes; spread quickly 
on the cake while warm. — Boston Cook Book. 

Boiled. 

Boil one cup granulated sugar, a speck of cream of tartar, 
and one-third cup water until it spins a thread when dropped 
from the spoon, then pour in a fine stream into the white of an 
egg beaten stiff, beating as you pour; continue beating until stiff 
enough to stand alone, add flavoring and spread quickly on the 
cake with a knife dipped in warm water. 

Ornamental. 

One cup sifted, powdered sugar, one teaspoon lemon juice, 
the white of an egg; beat the egg until it is all frothy but not 
dry, then sprinkle over three teaspoons sugar and beat five 
minutes; add one teaspoon each five minutes till quite thick, 
then put in the lemon juice. Beat with a fork and when a 
point of it will stand in any position it is ready to press through 
a pastry tube upon the cake, which should be already covered 
with a smooth plain frosting and dry. 

Golden. 

Beat two yolks of egg with one cup sugar and one-half tea- 
spoon old Jamaica rum, add more sugar if not stiff enough to 
hold its place. 

Chocolate. 

Melt one ounce chocolate, add one teaspoon powdered sugar, 
and add to the boiled frosting till it is dark as you wish. 

Orange. 

Grate the thin rind of an orange and soak it one-half hour 
in three teaspoons lemon juice. Squeeze the juice through a 
fine muslin and use like the lemon in five-minute frosting. 

Gelatine. 

Dissolve one teaspoon gelatine in three tablespoons warm 
water, add one cup pulverized sugar and beat until smooth. 
Flavor to taste. 

Sugar Glaze. 

One cup powdered sugar, one tablespoon lemon juice, about 
one tablespoon boiling water; beat hard till smooth and semi- 
transparent. Spread on the cake as soon as taken from the oven. 

Chocolate Glaze. 

Omit the lemon juice from the above recipe and add three 
heaping tablespoons of pulverized chocolate and one teaspoon 
vanilla. 

Fondant. 

Two cups sugar, one cup water, a bit of cream of tartar half 
as large as a pea. Boil without stirring until a little dropped 
into ice water can be gathered into a ball and rolled like wax 
between the fingers. Cool and and stir to a soft cream. Add 
flavor or coloring while cold, then soften over hot water and 
spread while warm. 

Maple Fondant. 

1 cup yellow or maple sugar, one-half cup thin cream ; boil 
together fifteen minutes, take from fire and stir constantly till 
it stiffens, spread quickly on warm cake as it hardens very fast. 

PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 
English or Christmas Plum Pudding. 

One and one-half pounds bread crumbs, two ounces citron, 
one-half pound ' flour, two ounces almonds, blanched and 
shreded, two pounds suet, chopped fine, two small nutmegs, 
grated, two pounds currants, two pounds raisins, one lemon 
juice and grated rind, two pounds sugar, one teaspoon salt, two 
ounces candied lemon peel, sixteen eggs, one wine glass of 
brandy, and enough milk to make stiff paste. Mix in order 
given and let rest over night. In the morning put into buttered 
moulds and steam for twelve hours and as much longer as con- 
venient. AVhen it is to be used, steam for two hours more. 
stick a sprig of holly in the top, pour two tablespoons brandy 
over and bring to the table blazing. Serve with English sauce. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



69 



Washburn, Crosby Go. 



PROPRIETORS 



| Washburn Flour jWills 




■ ' ■ i iiimn w — ' ' 

^ f^HE WASHBURN MILLS MAKE: 




(o 



W 



^ 



13,000 Barrels of Flour every Day. 
78,000 Barrels every Week. 

4,056,000 Barrels a Year. 



THE WASHBURN MILLS are the largest flour mills in the world. 



£$$100? 



THE WASHBURN MILLS have a floor surface of ten acres. The 
combined steam and water power is equal to 8,500 horse power. 



THE WASHBURN MILLS require 200 cars every day to take 
wheat into, and flour and offal out of them. 



THE WASHBURN MILLS' flour has taken the highest award 
wherever entered for competition. 




(aution. 



Every Barrel or Sack of Wash- 
burn's Flour bears the firm name 



in full, Washburn, Crosby P^ None other genuine. 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



English. 

Three egg yolks, two lumps sugar well rubbed on lemon 
rind, one-half cup sugar, one-half saltspoon salt, one-quarter 
cup sherry. Add one cup of milk, set in hot water and beat till 
light and frothy. 

Suet Pudding. 

One cup molasses, one cup chopped suet, three cups flour, 
one-half teaspoon salt, one teaspoon soda. Steam one and one- 
half to two hours. 

Whole Wheat Pudding. 

Two cups of whole wheat meal, half a teaspoon of soda, half 
a teaspoon salt, one cup of milk, half a cup of molasses and one 
cup of stoned dates. Put the fruit into the meal and mix until 
they are thoroughly floured; add soda, salt, milk and molasses: 
this will make a very soft batter, but the dry fruit absorbs a 
great deal of moisture. Steam three hours in a closed mould: 
serve with any plain pudding sauce, wine sauce, or whipped or 
beaten cream. If sour milk is used, add one level teaspoon of 
soda. Raisins, figs, stewed prunes, or other preserved fruits, or 
chopped sweet apples, make a pleasing variety. 

Caramel or Browned Sugar. 

Brown one cup of sugar and dissolve in half a cup of hot 
water. This makes a nice sauce for wattles also. 
The above will make a serving for twelve or fourteen people. 

Steamed Apple Pudding. 

Fill a baking dish with tart, juicy apples, quartered and cored" 
Cover with one-half the rule for Shortcake No. 1. Steam or 
cook on top of stove until the apples are tender, then set in oven 
to brown the crust. Serve with creamy or hard sauce. 

Creamy. 

One heaping teaspoon butter, softened, two cups powdered 
sugar, one well-beaten egg rubbed to a cream together, add one- 
half cup thick cream and one teaspoon vanilla. If it should 
separate set it over hot water and stir until smooth again. Keep 
on ice till wanted. 

Hard Sauce. 

One-half cup butter well beaten; stir in slowly one cup fine 
sugar, and beat to a cream. Pile on a plate and grate over a 
little nutmeg. Keep cool. 

Poor Man's Pudding. 

One cup rice, well picked and washed, one-half cup sugar, 
two quarts milk, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon cinna- 
mon; bake very slowly for three to four -hours, keeping 
covered as much as possible until the last fifteen minutes, then 
lift the cover to brown the top. It should be creamy and not 
dry when done. 

Cottage. 

One cup of milk, three-fourths cup of sugar, one egg, three 
tablespoons melted butter, two teaspoons baking powder sifted 
with two and one-half cups flour. Bake one-half hour and serve 
with liquid sauce. — Boston Cook Book. 

Put in the bottom of a round pudding dish, one pint of firm 
fruit, sliced apples, bananas, peaches, cherries, etc., if very acid 
sweeten to taste, add one tablespoon salt, let them heat through, 
pour over the above mixture, bake thirty-five to forty minutes, 
invert on round plate, serve with cream or sauce. The fruit 
may also be stirred into the batter and baked in a round loaf, 
If the fruit is very juicy scant the measure of milk a little, if 
bananas are used make banana sauce. 

Plain. 

Two cups water, one cup sugar, boiling; stir in one table- 
spoon cornstarch, wet with cold water, one teaspoon butter, 
one lump sugar well rubbed on lemon rind, or any flavoring 
preferred. Care must be taken to cook corn-starch well or it 
will taste raw. 

Delicate Pudding. 

One and one-half cups water, one-half cup sugar, and one-half 
saltspoon salt, well mixed and brought to the boiling point. 
Wet three tablespoons cornstarch in a little cold water, stir 
into the boiling syrup and cook ten minutes. 

ISeat the whites of three eggs to a dry froth and whip the 
boiling mixture into them; return to the fire one minute to set 
the egg, adding one-half cup lemon juice and a little of the 
grated rind. 

Turn at once into a border mold that has been wet in cold 
water, and set away to become ice-cold. Serve with straw- 
berries or other fruit piled high in the center; or pour a soft 
custard around as a sauce.— Mrs. 8. T. Robe?: 



Strawberry. 

One large tablespoon butter beaten to a cream. Add grad- 
ually one and one-half cups powdered sugar, and the beaten 
white of one egg. Beat till very light, and just before serving 
add one pint mashed strawberries. 

Soft Custard. 

One pint milk scalded, yolks of four eggs, two tablespoons 
sugar, one-half saltspoon salt. Cook over hot water till it will 
mask the spoon, strain, cool and flavor. Is improved for some 
things by having the sugar browned as for caramel sauce. 

Maple Sugar. 

One-fourth pound maple sugar, one-half cup water, boiled 
together till it will spin. Whisk boiling hot into the beaten 
whites of two eggs add one-half cup thick cream and a little 
lemon juice to taste. 

CREAMS, CUSTARDS, ETC. 

Devonshire Cream. 

Let the milk stand twenty-four hours in winter (twelve in 
summer), then set it on the stove till almost at the boiling point. 
It must not bubble, but should show wrinkles and look thick. 
The more slowly it is done the firmer it will be. On the follow- 
ing day skim it by folding over and over in small rolls, and set 
them on ice till wanted. This is also known as "clotted cream. - ' 

Blanc Mange. 

One-half cup Irish moss. Wash in tepid water, pick over and 
put into double boiler with one quart milk. Boil until it thick- 
ens when dropped on a cold plate. Add one-half saltspoon salt, 
strain, not allowing bits of moss to pass, add flavoring and turn 
into a mould that has been wet with cold water. Sea Moss 
Farina may be used — one level teaspoon to a quart of milk. 
Heat slowly and stir often. 

Boiled Custard. 

One quart milk, four eggs, four tablespoons sugar, one salt- 
spoon salt, one teaspoon cornstarch, one teaspoon vanilla. Dis- 
solve cornstarch in a little of the cold milk, add to the remain- 
der of the quart boiling hot and cook ten minutes. Beat eggs 
and sugar together, pour the boiling milk over them and return 
to the fire until thick enough to mask the spoon, take off at 
once, set into cold water and stir often until almost cold. Add 
the flavoring and strain into the dish from which it is to be 
served. This custard may be used at discretion with cake 
sliced or crumbled, macaroons, fruit, singly or combined to make 
a great variety of dishes. 

Cocoanut Custard. 

Add one cup grated cocoanut after straining. 

Chocolate Custard. 

Melt one ounce of chocolate over hot water, rub well with 
little of the hot custard and add before straining. 

Orange Custard. 

Cook like soft custard. Just before serving, add the juice of 
two and the lightly grated rind of one orange. 

Baked Custard. 

Make a custard, using one quart milk, one-half cup sugar, 
six eggs, speck salt; strain into a mold or cups, set in a 
deep pan and fill two-thirds of the way to the top of the mold 
with water. Bake in a very moderate oven. Test often with 
a knife and take out the instant the knife blade comes out 
smooth and clean. These two recipes are the foundation for num- 
berless varieties of desserts, according to the fancy of the cook. 

For Caramel Custard brown the measure of sugar as for car- 
amel sauce, dissolve it in the milk and finish according to 
directions for baked custard given above. This is often served 
as a pudding with caramel sauce. 

Bavarian Cream. 

Whip one pint cream to a stiff froth; it ought to make two 
quarts; if too rich to whip add a little milk. Make a custard 
with the cream that drains from the whip, adding milk enough 
to make one pint, one scant cup sugar, one-half box gelatine 
softened in cold water, the yolks of four eggs and one teaspoon 
vanilla. Cook one minute and strain into a broad pan set in ice 
water. Watch it carefully and as soon as it begins to thicken 
add the whipped cream, folding it in as for an omelet. Put into 
molds and set on ice to harden. This, too, is the foundation for 
a large variety of creams. 






WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



71 



Add the boiling 
Keep on ice until 



Coffee Bavarian Cream. — Use one cup clear strong coffee 
and one cup milk to make the custard. 

Chocolate.— Add one ounce chocolate, melted, to the hoi 
custard before straining. 

Peak, Pineapple or I'i: mil— Take one pint sifted pulp 
instead of one pint milk and omit the eggs. 

Strawberry or any other small fruit. Three pints berries 
mashed lint', strain the juice, add one cup sugar, gelatine soaked 
as above and dissolved in one cup boiling water. Add whipped 
cream and mold as before. 

Almond. -Add one pint sweet almonds blanched and 
pounded to a paste, soak the gelatine with milk. 

Pistachio. - As above. 

Orange. 

Make the custard with the yolks of six eggs, one-half pint of 
cream drained from the whip, add the grated rind of one orange 
and a pint of orange juice with an extra half cup sugar add an 
ounce (one-half box) soaked gelatine, cool and fold in whipped 
cream as usual. 

JELLIES WITH GELATINE. 

Wine. 

i box gelatine. 1 cup wine. 

i cup cold water. 1 cup sugar. 

1 pint boiling water. 1 lemon. 

Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft, 
water, wine, sugar and lemon juice. Strain, 
ready to serve. 

Orange. ■ 
i box gelatine, 1 pint orange juice. 

i cup cold water, 1 cup sugar. 

1 cup boiling water. 1 lemon. 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water twenty minutes or until 
soft. Add the boiling water, sugar, orange and lemon juice. 
Strain. Keep on the ice until ready to serve. Cut the orange 
rinds in baskets and fill with the jelly broken irregularly just 
before serving. 

Lemon. 

Same as above, except one cup lemon juice and one pint boil- 
ing water. 

Coffee Jelly. 

One-half box Cox's gelatine, soaked one hour in one-half 
cup cold coffee. Add one quart strong coffee and one cup 
sugar, one teaspoon vanilla. Cool in a crown mould, letting it 
stand on ice over night if possible. Turn on a large platter and 
heap whipped cream in the center as high as possible. The 
cream is often flavored with kiimmel or other cordial. 

Calf-Foot. 

4 calf feet. 2 lemons. 

4 quarts cold water. 2 inch stick cinnamon. 

i box gelatine. 3 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 1 pint wine. 

Wash and split the feet, add the water and cook slowly until 
the flesh separates from the bones and the stock is reduced to 
three pints. Strain. When cold remove the fat, add the whites 
and shells of the eggs, the cinnamon, sugar, the gelatine 
which has been soaked in one-half cup cold water twenty min- 
utes, and the juice of the lemons. Stir until hot. Let it simmer 
fifteen minutes. Add the wine. Skim and strain through a 
line napkin into tumblers. 

Orange Charlotte. 

One-third box gelatine, one-third cup cold water, one-third 
cup boiling water, one cup orange juice and pulp, juice of 
lemon (more or less according to the sweetness of oranges), 
whites of three eggs. 

Line a bowl with the sections of oranges, lady fingers or 
sponge cake. Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft; pour 
on the boiling water, add sugar and lemon juice; strain and 
add the orange juice and pulp with a little of the grated rind. 
Cool in a pan of ice water. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, 
and when the orange-jelly begins to harden, beat light," add the 
whites and beat until stiff enough to drop; mold and cool on 
ice. One pint whipped cream may be used. instead of the 
whites of eggs, or it may be piled on top after the charlotte is 
removed from the molds; loosen thoroughly all around the 
edges with a palette knife; place a dish firmly over the mold 
and turn quickly upside down. This will keep for several days 
if the seeds and white core of the oranges are removed. 

Another pretty way to fill the dish is to make the center fill- 
ing of strawberry juice, or line the dish with strawberries bv 
dipping them in soaked gelatine (which should be quite stiff 
.and flavored with strawberry juice), and sticking them to the 
sides, and fill with a plain charlotte russe. 



To make a Snow Pudding, beat tin gelatine and whites of 
eggs separately; lei the gelatine stiffen first, then beat in tin- 
white of eggs. 

Charlotte Kusse, No. 1. 

1 pint cream. 1 speck salt, 

} cup powdered sugar, < dozen lady Angers. 

1 teaspoon vanilla. 

Mix the c-nam, vanilla and sugar. Set into ice water and 
when chilled whip to a thick troth. Drain and fling into a 
dish that has been lined with the cake. Keep on ice till 
wanted. Serve in the same dish. 

Charlotte Russe, No. 2. 

Like No. 1, but as in Bavarian Cream (add one half-box gela- 
tine). Fill individual cups or paper cases with the cream, orna- 
ment with thin fancy cut slices of sponge cake and a little 
block of plum jelly ou each. 

ICE CREAM, SHERBETS, ETC. 

DIRECTIONS FOR FREEZING. 

A freezer holding four quarts is the most satisfactory size 
for family use, and it is well worth while to invest in a crown 
ice chip at the same time. The hole for draining away water 
should be about three-quarters of the distance from bottom to 
top and should never be plugged lest the water rise high 
enough to enter the can. About ten quarts of fine ice and 
three pints coarse salt will be needed for a gallon freezer. 
"Diamond C" rock salt is the best grade to use, and if 
drained from the water and dried will serve for several 
freezings. After adjusting the can in the freezer pack 
fine ice about five inches deep at the bottom. Sprinkle this 
with oue cup of salt and add another layer of ice; alternate 
salt and ice till even with top of can, packing it down solid 
every time salt is added. Pour on one quart cold water and 
begin turning the handle, slowly at first, but after five minutes 
as fast as convenient, in order to insure a fine smooth cream. 
More salt will freeze it quicker, but the cream will be coarse 
grained or even lumpy. Remove the beater as soon as the 
cream is frozen, and work the frozen mass together with a 
wooden spoon, packing it solid in a mold if desired. Cover 
closely, corking the hole in the cover, and if it is to stand very 
long, repack with fresh ice and salt. Cover the whole freezer 
with a blanket or piece of carpet and set in a cool place, tipping 
it slightly to let extra water run from the drainage hole. 

At serving time, lift out the mold, hold for two or three 
minutes under the cold water faucet, wipe dry and turn 
quickly on to a napkin folded on an ice cold platter. 

To keep over night or for several hours butter the joint of 
the mold and also cut a strip of cloth an inch wide, spread it 
with soft butter and wrap around the joints where the cover 
fits the mold, drawing as tight as possible and lapping the ends 
well. This will keep out salt water. 

Ice Cream. 

Whip and drain one pint cream, to the thin part that drains 
from the whip, add one scant cup sugar, one cup cream, one 
cup milk, and scald thoroughly. Cool and add one tablespoon 
vanilla or any flavoring preferred, freeze till like soft mush, 
then put in the whip and turn the freezer as fast as possible 
for five minutes; pack and let stand thirty minutes before 
serving. This is the best and simplest way to make it if you 
can get cream. 

Ice Cream, No. 2. 

One pint milk, two eggs, one cup sugar, one pint cream (or 
more), one level teaspoon flour, one-half cup sugar, one salt- 
spoon salt, one tablespoon flavoring. Boil the milk, mix the 
sugar, flour and salt, and stir into it. Cook twenty minutes, 
stirring constantly; pour boiling hot on two well beaten eggs, 
beating well. Strain, add cream, sugar and flavoring, and 
freeze as usual. 

Ice Cream, No. 3. (With Gelatine.) 

One quart cream, one pint milk, one tablespoon vanilla, one 
cup sugar, one-eighth package gelatine soaked till perfectly soft 
and then drained; one-half saltspoon salt. Scald the milk and 
sugar, pour boiling hot over the gelatine, add salt, strain and 
cool. Whip the cream, add it to the milk and freeze as usual. 
This has the merit of packing easily into fancy forms and hold- 
ing its shape in a warm room better than pure cream. 

These three standard preparations form the basis of almost 
all the varieties of frozen creams. 

Chocolate.— Melt three ounces baker's chocolate over hot 
water and stir it into No. 2. 

Coffee.— Substitute one pint strong coffee for the milk in 
No. 3 



72 



WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 



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Fruit Creams. 

Prepare No. 1, omitting the cup of milk; when half frozen, 
beat in one pint to one quart fruit pulp sweetened to taste and 
finish as usual. Peach is improved by the addition of a little 
Maraschino, and other fruits by some flavoring or cordial to 
accent their natural flavor. 

Nut Creams. 

Pistachio, almonds, filberts, etc., should be blanched, pounded 
fine with a little water, and simmered in the milk of No. 3, till 
the flavor is well extracted. It may be strained for a smooth 
cream, or the bits of nut left in. 

Frozen Puddings. 

Are usually prepared with No. 3, using four or more egg yolks 
in addition to the gelatine. Let the custard cook two minutes, 
then strain over the gelatine; when dissolved strain again into 
the freezer. Wine, cordials or other flavorings should be added 
when half frozen, and the fruit or nuts stirred in as it is packed. 
Preserves of any kind cut in small pieces, French candied fruit, 
chestnuts blanched and simmered in a thick syrup till tender, 
almond paste rubbed fine, Canton ginger, powdered macaroons, 
cake crumbs, etc., are all used singly and in combination at the 
whim of the confectioner. The following is given for illustra- 
tion and suggestion. 

Nesselrode Pudding. 

One-half pound almond paste, thirty French chestnuts, one 
pint cream, a pint can pineapple, the yolks of ten eggs, half a 
pound of French candied fruit, one tablespoon vanilla extract, 
four of wine, one pint water, one of sugar. Blanch the chestnuts 
and pound to a paste. Rub almond paste smooth. Boil the 
sugar, water and juice from the pineapple twenty minutes. 
Beat the yolks of the eggs, and stir them into the syrup. Put 
the saucepan in another of boiling water, and beat the mix- 
ture with an egg beater until it thickens. Take off, place in a 
basin of cold water, and beat ten minutes. Mix the almonds 
and chestnuts with the cream. Add the candied fruit and the 
pineapple, cut fine. Mix this with the cooked mixture. Add 
the flavor and half a saltspoon salt. Freeze the same as ice 
cream. Pack in a chimney mold. In serving, fill the hole with 
preserved chestnuts; lay thick beaten cream around the form 
and garnish with preserved cherries and pieces of other fruit. 



TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS. 

A speck makes one-quarter saltspoon. 

Four saltspoons make one teaspoon. 

Three teaspoons make one tablespoon. 

Eight tablespoons of dry and solid material make one cup. 

Sixteen tablespoons of liquid material make one cup. 

Two gills make one cup. 

One wine glass makes one-half gill. 

One cup contains eight ounces of liquid. 

Ten eggs, average size, make one pound. 

One-half ounce bottle extract makes twelve teaspoons. 

One tablespoon butter makes one ounce. 

One tablespoon granulated sugar makes one ounce. 

One heaped tablespoon powdered sugar makes one ounce. 

One tablespoon flour makes one-half ounce. 

Two tablespoons ground spice make one ounce. 

Five nutmegs make one ounce. 

One quart sifted pastry flour makes one pound. 

One quart less one gill, sifted patent flour makes one pound. 

One scant pint granulated sugar makes one pound. 

One pint butter makes one pound. 

One pint chopped meat, packed, makes one pound. 

One cup rice makes one-half pound. 

One cup cornmeal makes six ounces. 

One cup stemmed raisins makes six ounces. 

One cup cleaned currants makes six ounces. 

One cup stale bread crumbs makes two ounces. 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS. 

One quart of flour requires one pint of butter, or butter and 
lard mixed for pastry. 

One quart of flour requires one heaping tablespoon of buttter 
for biscuit. 

One quart of flour requires two tablespoons of butter for 
shortcakes. 

< >ne quart of flour requires one cup of butter for cup cakes. 
One quart of flour requires one-half level teaspoon of salt. 



One quart of flour requires four teaspoons of baking 
powder. 

One quart of flour requires one pint of milk for muffins, 
gems, etc. 

One quart of flour requires one scant quart of milk for 
batters of all kinds. 

One measure of liquid to three measures flour for bread. 

One teaspoon of soda to one pint of sour milk. 

One teaspoon of soda to one cup of molasses. 

One teaspoon of salt to one pound of meat. 

A spoon means that the material should lie as much above 
the edge of the spoon as the bowl sinks below it. A heaping 
teaspoon means that the material should lie twice as high 
above the edge of the spoon as the bowl sinks below it. A level 
teaspoon should hold sixty drops of water. All dry materials 
are measured after sifting. 

A spoon of salt, pepper, soda, spice is a level spoon. 

One-half of a spoon is measured by dividing through the 
middle lengthwise. 

A speck is what can be placed within a quarter inch square 
surface. 



TIME FOR COOKING SUMMER VEGETABLES. 

Greens— Dandelions 1% hours. 

Spinach 1 hour. 

String beans 2 hours. 

Green peas 20 minutes. 

Beets 1 to 3 hours. 

Turnips 1 to 3 hours. 

Squash 1 hour. 

Potatoes Vj hour. 

Corn x i hour. 

Asparagus % hour. 

This applies to young and fresh vegetables. 



TIME FOR COOKING WINTER VEGETABLES. 

Squash 1 hour. 

Potatoes, white % hour. 

Potatoes, baked 1 hour. 

Sweet Potatoes % hour. 

Baked Sweet 1 hour. 

Turnips 2 hours. 

Beets Z% hours. 

Parsnips 1 hour. 

Carrots l l { hours. 

Cabbage 3 hours. 



Broiling. 






Steak, one inch thick 4 to 6 minutes 

Steak, two inches thick 8 to 15 minutes. 

Fish, small and thin 5 to 8 minutes. 

Fish, thick 15 to 25 minutes. 

Chickens 20 to 30 minutes. 



TIME TABLE FOR MEATS. 

Beef, underdone, per pound 9 to 10 minutes. 

Beef fillet of 20 to 40 minutes. 

Mutton, leg, per pound 10 to 12 minutes. 

Mutton, stuffed shoulder, per pound 18 minutes. 

Veal, loin of, plain, per pound 15 to 18 minutes. 

Veal, stuffed 20 minutes. 

Pork, spare rib, per pound 15 to 20 minutes. 

Pork, loin or shoulder, per pound 20 to 30 minutes. 

Liver, baked or braised 1 to \y % hours. 

Corned Beef, per pound 25 to 30 minutes. 

Boiled (simmered) Beef, per pound 20 to 30 minutes. 

Ham, after water or cider begins to boil 15 to 20 minutes. 

Bacon, per pound 15 minutes. 

Chickens, baked, three to four pounds 1 to 2 hours. 

Turkey, ten pounds 3 hours. 

Goose, eight pounds 3 hours. 

Buck, tame 40 to CO minutes. 

Duck, wild 30 to 10 minutes. 

Grouse, pigeons and other large birds 30 minutes. 

Small birds 10 to 15 minutes. 

Venison, per pound 15 minutes. 

Fish, long and thin, six to eight pounds 1 hour. 

Fish, thick, six to eight pounds \\i to 2 hours. 

Fish, small 25 to 30 minutes. 





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